the valleys of south wales Heritage Breaks where to stay, what to do, events and travel information 2008 www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk Introduction 2-3 www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk Feet first Walking the Valleys 4-7 Croeso Bienvenue Welkom Willkommen Go do Activities, adventure and fun 8-10 Here’s How It Works Go green How green are the Valleys? 11-12 In the same spirit, we don’t go in for Past times Heritage, history and the 13-15 over-the-top flowery descriptions in this mighty industrial revolution publication. We’ve presented the Valleys as Feel the hwyl Art and culture 16-18 simply and honestly as we can, dividing the guide into sections based on various We love to talk Tales and legends 19-21 themes, at the end of which we list Tracing your Do you have any 22-23 detailed information on things to see and roots Welsh ancestors? do, places to visit, etc. Food and drink Hospitality at its best 24-26 We hope you’ll find it’s helpful in planning your ideal shortbreak or holiday whether Events in Wales A selection of festivals and 27 events throughout Wales staying with family and friends or booking accommodation. Heritage breaks Where to stay 28-33 Places to visit Activities and attractions 34-35 2/3 Did you know? Take your pick Other areas in Wales to visit 36-37 Parc Cwm Darran was a former You might already have a picture in And here’s another surprise. The world is just or France. Or the Rough Guide, a travel colliery site and was usedin an your mind of what the Valleys of South waking up to the fact that the Valleys are publication renowned for its honesty and So easy to Travel information 38-39 get to episode of Dr Who called Wales are all about. It probably needs home to a captivating choice of attractions accuracy, which gives the Valleys a top star The Green Death. Valleys events Tourist Information Centres 40 an update. We’d like to introduce you and places to visit. Like Caerphilly Castle, rating and describes the destination as Miner’s Family Statue, Llwynypia and other useful contacts to the Valleys of today. And spring a for example, one of the finest medieval ‘interesting and distinctive’. few surprises along the way. monuments in Europe. Or Blaenavon, a So you’ll find that things have changed. For a start, you won’t see a coal mine World Heritage Site. Not to mention country But what hasn’t altered is that strong Valleys (unless it happens to be a heritage centre). parks, forest drives, waterfalls and narrow- spirit. Valleys folk are genuinely warm and What you will see are lakes and forests, gauge railways. friendly. It all comes naturally in the Valleys open hillsides and green mountains. But don’t take our word for it. Listen to - something that applies to its people and They’re all part of a unique, roller-coaster Nicole Cooke, World Champion cycling star, its places. landscape of hills and vales dotted who loves climbing the Valleys’ scenic with friendly towns and villages. mountain roads as much as the Alps of Italy Did you know? The Coal House BBC Wales’ living history series was filmed at Blaenavon Ironworks www.bbc.co.uk/coalhouse The Big Cheese Festival, Caerphilly Cyfartha Castle Museum and Gardens Big Pit National Mining Museum Blaenavon Ironworks www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk have to walk it all in one go! It has been In the Footsteps of (founded by Irish immigrants), the former broken down into nine linear sections varying the Ironmakers Jewish Synagogue, Zoar Independent Chapel in distance from 2 to 9 miles. The route runs 21st - 29th June 2008 (built in 1803), and the gothic Church of through a variety of landscapes including This is a series of 8 new guided historic St David’s. The trail ends at St Tydfil’s Parish ancient woodland, forestry, mountaintops, walking tours in the Blaenau Gwent district. Church, built on the site of the saint’s canal towpaths and stretches of old Roman The tours follow in the footsteps of legendary martyrdom. Road. The trail’s main starting point is the ironmakers covering old tram roads, pathways Distance 2 miles Level Easy Active Living Centre at Pontypool. and hillsides along the heads of the valleys. They also reveal the history of the area's towns, A Walking Festival Distance 2 to 35 miles Level All levels ironworkers, mansions, quarries and the people to remember Medieval Magic and who have provided such a rich industrial 5th - 21st September 2008 Magnificent Mountains and cultural heritage. Each trail is named after The Wales Valleys Walking Festival keeps We could simply have called it the an ironmaster who ruled the workforce, some getting bigger and better. Now in its fourth Caerphilly and Rudry Ridge Walk, but we with benevolence, others with fear. year, it brings together a great choice of think the chosen title does better justice to over 25 guided walks throughout the region, Distance 6 to 8 miles Level Moderate/Strenuous this dramatic, exhilarating trail. The circular appealingto all abilities and interests, from walk begins on a high, starting at Caerphilly St Tydfil’s Town Trail serious enthusiasts looking to stretch Mountain car park. Soon, you’ll be surrounded There are fascinating urban walks too. This trail themselves to shorter walks suitable for all by far-reaching views of the South Wales is a walk in time as well as in town. During its the family. Disabled ramblers are also 4/5 landscape all the way from Cardiff and the iron and steel heyday Merthyr Tydfil was catered for. Bristol Channel in the south to Merthyr Tydfil a staunch chapel-going, non-conformist The festival - just like the Valleys- offers a These hills and vales are made for here, along with details of the not-to- enthusiasm, taking in heritage sites, wonderful and the Brecon Beacons in the north. There’s community. But it was also home to vast mix of breathtaking beauty and fascinating walking. There are sheltered riverside be-missed annual Walking Festival. waterfalls and areas of great natural beauty. also a bird’s-eye view of Caerphilly Castle, numbers of immigrants who brought their heritage, introduced to you by experienced paths and highland trails with big, For more information on walks please The trails have been designed for quick and one of Europe’s finest medieval monuments. own religion with them. This religious mix walk leaders. Ring 01495 355800 for a copy boundless views, waymarked forest contact the relevant local Tourist easy access from major transport hubs, and reveals itself along the trail, which takes in of the guide and to book a walk. Distance 6 miles Level Easy/Moderate walks and green routes through country Information Centre listed on the are either circular or end at a convenient such sites as St Mary’s Catholic Church Email: [email protected] parks. Walking here is as gentle or back page. point - for example, a train station - that’s adventurous as you want to make it. only a short ride back to the start. And it’s all easily accessible. Loops and Links Order your pack now from the website. The tourism authorities in this part of This varied series of trails cover around 200 Distance 7.5 to 45 miles Level All levels Wales have recognised - and embraced miles in the area of Rhondda Cynon Taf and - the importance of walking, creating Merthyr Tydfil. They ‘loop and link’ together The Figure of Eight Walk countless trails and paths, many with creating a network designed not just for This 35-mile route takes in the whole of the special themes based on our unique walkers. Mountain bikers and horse riders are Torfaen district of the Valleys, from Cwmbran landscape and heritage. To whet your welcome too. There are 18 trails in all with in the south to Blaenavon’s World Heritage walking appetite we feature a few something for all abilities and levels of Site in the north. Don’t worry - you don’t Did you know?Walking the entire 9.6 mile length of the Trevithick Trail saves 2.6kg of CO2 when compared with a car journey of similar length. Bluebells in Sirhowy View from Craig y Llyn, Llyn Fawr Reservoir Cwmcarn Forest Drive feet first www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk Useful Information this is just a selection of the many walks and country parks throughout the region Maps Dedicated Walks Cynon Taff and Merthyr Tydfil. These trails are Countryside and Local Parks Festival Park, Ebbw Vale -walk around For start locations and directions visit Leaflets are available on the following looped and linked together, and are designed To experience the countryside you must the Garden Festival Wales, also a vibrant www.multimap.com walks, please contact one of the Tourist for walkers, mountain bikers and horse riders. visit and explore the many dedicated attraction and shopping village. Information Centres listed on the Merthyr Tydfil -a range of heritage trails. country and local parks. These are Cyfarthfa Park, Merthyr Tydfil-160 acres back page. listed by the nearest town. of parkland. Take an Ordnance Survey map with you on Pontypridd Circular Walk-a 1.5 mile easy Anuerin Bevan Trail-walk and drive trail around graded walk that begins and ends at the historical Aberdare Park, Aberdare-Victorian park Taff Bargoed Millennium Park, Merthyr your walk. These can be purchased from Tredegar and the surrounding area, highlighting town of Pontypridd passing famous historic with lake, tennis, bowling, café and more. Tydfil- recreational park for visitorsand locals. the Tourist Information Centres listed on sbiyte csasrp, 2e-c3if hico tuor st heiass fya wmaoluksin pgo (loitmiciitatnin. g1- 2o uhto-uorfs- landmarks. Dare Valley Country Park, Aberdare- Pontypool Park, Pontypool-historic the back page. town sites) with some inclines. Shell Grotto, Pontypool-the Grotto is created from land ravaged by industry it provides park with dry ski slope, tennis courts and decorated with beautiful shells and small bones. a fascinating insight into man’s influence over adventure playground. Bryn Oer Tram Road-an eight mile walk our landscape. Websites aocfr Torsesfoilpteon t mheo ocarlnaanld a ftr oTmal ytbhoe nqtu.arrying village SAinrehuoriwn yBe Vvaanll Meye mWoarilakl S-tcoonmesm aetn Tcriendg eagta trh.e Sirhowy Country Park, Blackwood- L–itetnljeoy F ar ideanyd osu tF awrimth fPaamrikly, Panodn ftryiepnrdisdd A welcome break! - Dare Valley Country Park 100 acres of woodland and meadows. meeting the animals. www.walking.visitwales.com The Celtic Trail-220 miles from the old Taff Trail-linking Cardiff to Brecon via Merthyrthis Advice for walkers SevernBridge to West Wales. 55 mile route is designed for cyclists and walkers. Pen y Fan Pond & Country Park, Barry Sidings, Pontypridd -countryside www.ccw.gov.uk Blackwood-historic reservoir, with walks, park with all facilities including lakes and • Always check the level of the route suits your experience and fitness. Cynon Trail-16 mile footpath and cycleway Torfaen-a selection of circular walks of fishing and picnic areas. picnic areas. www.nationaltrust.org.uk linking to Taff Trail. varied lengths. • Use an Ordnance Survey map. Garw Nant Visitor Centre, Brecon Ynysangharad War Memorial Park, www.ramblers.org.uk • Wear walking boots/shoes and bring waterproofs - denim jeans are NOT suitable. Dthies choerviteargye Torfa tihlse -Vaa lsleeyrise st oowf ntrsa. i2ls- 3u nhcoouvresring Ttrahirlse eex pWloarilnkgs t hAeb coouuntt rTyrseiddee agroaurn-d c Tirrceudleagrar. Bwealakcinogn asn dN paitcinoicns apll uPsa trhke r-ev iesr ya pcaofpeutelarria f.or pPaodndtlyinpg rpidoodl,- twenanlkiss ,a gnodl fb, ebaouwtilfinugl ,g oarudtednoso.r www.welshwalks.info • Tell someone where you are walking and call them on your return. easywalking with some inclines. Trevithick Trail, Merthyr Tydfil-a Parc Cwm Darran, Caerphilly-peaceful Parc Bryn Bach, Tredegar-400 acres of Folly Tower, Pontypool-seven counties planned route due to be fully completed in country park with cafe and visitor centre. woodlands and flower meadows focused around • Keep your dogs under control. are visible from the tower on a clear day. MPeanrycdha 2rr0e0n8 L fooclolomwointigv et.he historic route of the Parc Penallta, Caerphilly -see the UK’s a lake with accommodation, visitor centre, Did you know? Iron Mountain Trail, Blaenavon - a 10 mile largest figurative earth sculpture and enjoy restaurant and activities. • Keep to public footpaths across farmland. route with breath-taking landscape of the World Y Tri Chwm Trail -trail across the Sirhowy, breathtaking views. The Afon Lwyd River was named • Guard against all risk of fire. Hwehriictha gme aSkiete u apt tBhlea e‘Bnlaaveonna.v Oonn eW oafl ksisx P raocukt’.es Ehbobuwrs ,F taoctha la cnldim Ebb b10w3 7F amwer tVreasll. eOy/s.S ( 3E7x pmloileresr, 6 Cwmcarn Forest Drive Visitor Centre Torfaen in ancient times which • Take your litter home. 152 & 166 or Outdoor Leisure 13). and Campsite-seven mile forest drive with Loops and Links- there are 18 varied trails fantasticviews. means rock-breaker. • Enjoy yourself! covering 200 miles around the area of Rhondda for further details of these and other walks and country parks visit www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk 6/7 Keepers Ponds, Blaenavon Sgwd-yr-Eira Waterfall Loops and links route marker Taff Trail, great walking or cycling! Pen y Fan in the Brecon Beacons National Park Spectacular Autumn colours www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk through history as well as superb scenery, winning Welsh formula - ‘golf as it should be’. Horsepower following ghostly old railway lines up, up and The genuine spirit of the game is alive and well And it’s the same when it comes to horse riding away into the Brecon Beacons. in the Valleys, where you play at your own pace and pony trekking. The hills are laced with a on unhurried courses. And because you’re in the network of bridleways like the Furlong Wood What’s the Catch? Valleys it goes without saying that the hospitality Ride, three linking loops of around 12 miles A pretty good one if you’re a fishing is as generous as the views from its mountain taking in cool green forests and Blaenavon’s enthusiast. There’s a lot of water in the Valleys top courses. We’re thinking of places like the World Heritage moors and mountains. with over 35 rivers, lakes, streams, canals and Caerphilly and Castell Heights Golf Clubs (just ponds to fish from. So bring your rod and come Boiling Point half-an-hour from the Celtic Manor), Rhondda fishing for salmon and trout, carp and bream. Golf Club, as it is one of the Highest in South The 18th-century long-distance runner Gûto The 36-acre lake at Parc Bryn Bach, Tredegar is Wales and the lofty Morlais Castle Golf Club, Nyth Bran reputedly ran an amazing distance a local favourite. No big surprise really. Its Merthyr Tydfil, where you can hit your ball into from his home near Pontypridd in the time it monster carp might take the bait, but they can the Brecon Beacons National Park. Golfing breaks took to boil a kettle of water. His achievements hardly be described as bite-sized. At the Tri can be found at www.valleystourism.com are commemorated each year at the Nos Galan Nant Trout Farm, Llantrisant, there are no less and www.greensofsouthernwales.com (New Year’s Eve) 5K road race in Mountain Ash. than four lakes, covering 5 acres, stocked daily Wrap up and watch the race - or, better still, Mountain Biking’s a Blast with rainbow trout. When you’ve reeled them in take part in this or one of the many other you can enjoy a pint and a meal at The The Valleys were designed for this up-and- organised running events held throughout Countryman Inn overlooking the lakes. down adrenaline-fuelled pastime. Mountain the year. Biking is big news everywhere in Wales. Greens for Go In the Cwmcarn Forest, for example, you’ll find For Speed Enthusiasts 8/9 All eyes will be on the Celtic Manor Resort in the thrill-a-minute 10-mile Twrch Trail (named Practice your skiing at the 230m Pontypool ski Newport in 2010 when the Ryder Cup comes after a legendary beast) along with a testing centre, race around the G-Force Karting Centre Take a deep breath. You’ll need to if All in One International Climbing and Activity Centre in to town. Being only a short drive away already downhill track, or there is Y Tri Chwm, a 37 mile at amazing speeds or simply have some great you want to plunge into the Valleys’ Get active in dedicated centres like Parc Bryn the Taff Bargoed Millennium Park? The centre the ripple effect of this massive golfing route traversing 3 valleys - Sirhowy, Ebbw Fach, fun experiencing the countryside on quad bikes activity scene. It’s amazing what you Bach near Tredegar. There was a coal mine here is also home to Britain’s first artificial cave competition is being felt in the Valleys, where and Ebbw Fawr reaching a climb of 1037 metres. at the Taff Valleys Quad Bike Centre. can Go Do in this part of Wales. There’s once, not that you’d know it now. Bryn Bach, an complex, a Tardis-like maze of passageways and previously undiscovered golf courses are a huge choice of activities on offer, exhilarating mix of woodland, grassland and chambers. They take their activities seriously welcoming more and more visitors. It’s a mirroring a landscape that changes by lake, is buzzing with activity. Mountain biking, here - as well as climbing and caving you can go the mile. The valleys themselves are kayaking, archery, climbing, quad biking, BMXing, bouldering or hanging from high ropes, quad just the start of it all. There are hills golfing, caving and gorge walking - these are just biking or kayaking. and mountains too. And lakes and some of the things you can get up to in and rivers, woods and forests, country around the park. And if it’s peace and quiet you’re The Taff on Two Wheels parks and countryside centres. We’ve after simply take a seat outside the visitor centre The River Taff cuts through the heart of the already covered walking. Now it’s the for grandstand views of the lake and watch the Valleys, flowing alongside historic towns like turn for fishing and golfing, abseiling world go by. You can even stay the night in a Merthyr Tydfil and Pontypridd. It’s easy to follow and climbing, horse riding and running, bunkhouse or pitch your tent on the camping site. its journey from mountains to the sea on the cycling and mountain biking. It’s all go. Who needs the Eiger when you can scale one of Taff Trail, a 55-mile waymarked route specially Europe’s biggest climbing walls at The Welsh designed for cyclists - and walkers. It is a pedal Did you know? At West Mon Golf Club in Nantyglo, visitors can play 18 holes on the highest golf course in the UK (Guinness book of records). The 14th is the highest tee at 1,500 ft. Fishing in the Rhondda Quad Biking West Mon Golf Club Nos Galan Road Race go do www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk a selection of activities listed alphabetically by the nearest town Activity Tri Nant Farm (trout fishing lakes, course West Mon Golf Club Blaenavon World Heritage Site & fly fishing) T: +44 (0)1443 228316 Nantyglo T: +44 (0)1495 310233 Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 792615 Upper Rhondda Angling Association Whitehills Golf Club South Wales 2000 Shooting Ground T: +44 (0)1443 777650 Pontyclun T: +44 (0)1443 225771 Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 201182 Fishing is available at Cyfarthfa Park Pontypool Golf Club Lake, Taff Bargoed Millennium Park Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 763655 Ynys Hywel, Activity Centre Crosskeys T: +44 (0)1495 200113 and Pontsticill Reservoir. Woodlake Golf Course Greenmeadow Community Farm Golf Pontypool T: +44 (0)1291 673933 Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 862202 Aberdare Golf Club Pontypridd Golf Club Dolygaer Outdoor Education Centre Aberdare T: +44 (0)1685 872797 Pontypridd T: +44 (0)1443 409904 T: +44 (0)1685 721751 Blackwood Golf Club Pony Trekking and Riding Welsh International Climbing and Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 222 121 Greenmeadow Riding Centre Activity Centre Tomorrow Everest! Bryn Meadows Golf & Country Hotel & Animal Park Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1443 710749 Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 225590 Aberdare T: +44 (0)1685 874961 G-Force Karting Five Walking Short Breaks Oakdale Golf Club Caerphilly Riding Centre Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 785777 in South Wales T: +44 (0)1685 883880 Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 220044 Caerphilly T: +44 (0)29 2088 0500 Pontypool Ski Slope Y Tri Chwm T: +44 (0)1495 711816 Bargoed Golf Club Rockwood Riding Centre Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 756955 Fishing Caerphilly T: +44 (0)1443 830143 Craig yr Allt, Caerphilly Gwent Adventures Caerphilly Golf Club T: +44 (0)29 2086 6281 Markham Angling Club Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 752650 Caerphilly T: +44 (0)29 2086 3441 Tickens Trekking Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 229350 Taff Valley Quad Bike & Activity Centre Castell Heights Golf Club Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 862996 Islwyn & District Anglers Pontypridd T: +44 (0)29 20 831658 Caerphilly T: +44 (0)29 2088 6686 Talygarn Equestrian Centre Barry Sidings Blackwood T: +44 (0)1443 838234 Mountain Lakes Golf Club Pontyclun T: +44 (0)1443 225107 10/11 Pontypridd T: +44 (0)1443 484400 Penallta Angling Club Caerphilly T: +44 (0)29 2086 1128 The Pit Pony Sanctuary Mud Massacre Adventure Quads Blackwood T: +44 (0)1443 813564 Ridgeway Golf Club Pontypridd T: +44 (0)1443 480327 How Green Was My Valley needs to be Green Footprints Sirhowy Valley T: +44 (0)7769 962 148 Sirhowy Angling Club Caerphilly T: +44 (0)29 2088 2255 Rockwood T: +44 (0)29 2086 6281 consigned, once and for all, to the history The Valleys are green in a forward-looking and Tirgwaidd Activity & Development Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 254764 Virginia Park Golf Club Waterside books. The novel by Richard Llewellyn environmentally friendly way too. Tourism, Centre T: +44 (0)7973 115803 Caerphilly & District Angling Society Caerphilly T: +44 (0)29 2086 3919 Parc Bryn Bach Activity Centre Caerphilly T: +44 (0)29 2086 8548 Llanyrafon Golf Course Llandegfedd Reservoir painted a picture that vanished from the leisure and pleasure come with the lightest Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 769281 Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 711816 Rhymney and District Angling Society Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 874636 landscape of South Wales many years ago. possible touch. The area’s exceptional walking Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal Daerwonno Caerphilly T: +44 (0)1685 840122 Greenmeadow Golf Club Pontypool T: +44 (0)1873 881069 In place of coal mines there are now and cycling, horse riding and mountain biking Ynysybwl T: +44 (0)1443 790768 Cwmbran Angling Association Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 869321 Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 868890 Pontnewydd Golf Club country parks - more than anywhere else in are all in tune with the times - as increasing Trails You will find leisure and sport Celtic Trail www.sustrans.co.uk Glyncornel AnglinTg: +A4s4s (o0)c14ia4t3i o43n2289 CRhwomnbdrdaan Golf CluTb: +44 (0)1633 482170 centres located at all major Wales, by the way. The heavy industries of numbers of visitors are discovering. The City of Cwmcarn Forest Drive ‘Twrch Trail’ Llantrisant & Pontyclun Anglers Ferndale T: +44 (0)1443 441384 towns throughout the Valleys old have disappeared. Forests clothe the Cardiff is only 1/2 hour away by train and you Pen Ffordd Goch Pond, Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 272001 T: +44 (0)1443 237191 Llantrisant and Pontyclun Golf Club pfarcoivliitdieinsg. good all weather hillsides, and above the trees there are open can even take a journey on the 35 mile long most of the UK’s main centres of population. Loops and Links Trails Merthyr Tydfil Anglers Llantrisant T: +44 (0)1443 224601 www.loopsandlinks.co.uk Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 877886 Cilsanws Golf Club moors and mountains that have always been Monmouth & Brecon Canal starting at Cwmbran So getting here is guilt free - and as green as Trevithick Trail Mountain Ash Fly Fisher Association Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 723308 Did you know? green, fresh and untouched. and finishing in the Brecon Beacons. And here’s it comes. Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 725006 T: +44 (0)1685 812022 Morlais Castle Golf Club Welsh rain is not a myth but Wales as a country is committed to Fair another plus point: the Valleys are easy to get Taff Trail T: +44 (0)1685 883880 Parc Bryn Bach Country Park Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 722822 areas within the valleys have Torfaen Leisure Route Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 711816 MountainAsh Golf Club recorded more hours of Tradeand by 2008 plans to be the first Fair to know, with excellent road and rail links from Torfaen T: +44 (0)1495 792615 Llyn Fawr Lakes MountainAsh T: +44 (0)1443 479459 Trade country in the World sunshine than London. Parc Bryn Bach Treherbert T: +44 (0)1443 777650 Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 711816 Did you know? There is an Owl Sanctuary at Festival Park, Ebbw Vale, where there are over 50 birds of prey. for further details of these and other activities visit www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk Green Fingers Country Living Did you know? If you’re a fan of Jeremy Vine’s Radio 2 show That’s what you’ll enjoy in the Dare Valley Ley's Whitebeam, the world's rarest tree, then you’re probably also a fan of Terry Walton. Country Park, Aberdare, in the Cynon Valley. grows in the Taff Valley Terry, from Tonypandy in the Rhondda, has It wasn’t always the case. It’s hard to believe become a star since reporting regularly on that a coal mine once stood on this swathe A B&B with a Difference his allotment. He’s kept an allotment man of grassland, lakeland and mountain. Come ‘‘I served my veggie sausage to a South African and boy for 50 years so knows what he’s here for walking, horse riding and birdwatching guest. He wouldn’t believe it wasn’t meat,” talking about. With our renewed interest in - and for the stirring views northwards into said Grace Lloyd of Awen, a B&B located high fresh, locally sourced food, he’s very much the Brecon Beacons. You can even rest over on a hillside overlooking the Ebbw Valley at in fashion. Along with lots of like-minded night at the modern hotel or touring caravan Abercarn. Grace, an environmental scientist colleagues - ‘allotmenteering’ is something and camping site located at the park. That’s by training, is the proprietor of a friendly, of a Valleys obsession. As he says, ‘More and another surprise. The Valleys and the Brecon forward-looking vegetarian B&B. There’s an more people are starting to put taste and Beacons National Park are close neighbours. emphasis on wholesome, healthy organic freshness as the most important ingredients So close, in fact, that just north of Aberdare food, not just for breakfast - she’ll make you of the daily meals.’ Terry has also written a and Merthyr Tydfil (a Fair Trade Town) the a packed lunch or cook dinner if you give book, My Life on a Hillside Allotment. Visit one lives in the pocket of the other. her notice. Her soaps, shampoos and cleaning Abertillery allotments, Winner of the Wales Penderyn near Aberdare stands at the gateway products are also organic wherever possible. in Bloom for 16 years and see recording to ‘Waterfall Country’, a part of the National Her cosy 16th-century Welsh longhouse is 12/13 breaking vegetables. Park famous for its caves, deep wooded brimming with original features. In the highly See page 25, for a list of the markets gorges and spectacular falls. And lakeside The problem is where to start. Is it disappears. What remains is that above Blaenavon. Better still, explore the unlikely event of not finding it relaxing selling fresh local produce. Many of Pontsticill a few miles from Merthyr is in with the revolution in transport? Or strong, resonant sense of identity - blast furnaces at Blaenavon Ironworks, some enough you can try one of her therapeutic the hospitality venues also use locally the foothills of Pen y fan, at 2,907 ft above the pioneering advances made in the and a clutch of fascinating heritage of the best preserved in Europe. And go Reiki treatments. sourced produce where available. sea level, the highest peak in Southern Wales. production of iron and steel? Or the sites that include coal mines, canals underground at the Big Pit National Mining mining of the ‘Black Gold’ that fuelled and blast furnaces, monuments to a Museum. It’s for real. Big Pit was a working Britain and the world? The Industrial vanished age. colliery until 1980. What’s more, you’ll be Revolution swept through the Valleys guided by an ex-miner (and, we guarantee, be like nowhere else. Merthyr Tydfil was World Heritage entertained and enlightened along the way). known as the ‘iron capital’ from Blaenavon – along with places like the Taj The story continues to unfold. May 2008 Aberdeen to Argentina. Mighty new Mahal and the Great Wall of China - is a sees the official opening of Blaenavon’s forces were unleashed here, served by World Heritage Site. It’s no less than it new World Heritage Centre, which gives tightly knit communities bonded by a deserves, for the town was once at the cutting a complete picture of the town’s vital unique culture. The heavy industry of edge of the iron and coal industries. For an historic role. old is long gone. But not everything overview of it all walk across the windy moors Did you know? The miners were the real heroes of the industrial revolution and it was calculated that one Use horsepower to enjoy the views ‘Allotmenteering’ Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal man died underground every seven minutes. past times www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk Ironheart male voice choirs. Take a look inside - it has This elegant 72ft/22m tower dominating Merthyr Tydfil and metal were synonymous. been returned to the 1840s when Joseph was the centre of town is 150 years old in 2008. a selection of places of interest listed alphabetically by the nearest town First it was iron. Then came steel. It’s difficult a child. Tredegar is also proud of its associations Cynon Valley Museum & Gallery A Victorian kitchen display and a fine local Statue of Evan James and James James to exaggerate Merthyr’s importance. In its with Aneurin (Nye) Bevan and another Aberdare T: +44 (0)1685 886729 history archive. Pontypridd, Ynysangharad War This museum tells the history of Aberdare Llanyrafon Mill Memorial Park T: +44 (0)1443 424180 rip-roaring heyday it was the largest town Gold and Diamonds important birthday - this time a 60th. Born offering a chance to watch William Haggar’s Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 482780 See the statue commemorating Evan and James in Wales. Merthyr iron went into the rails ‘Black Gold’ or ‘Black Diamonds’ were the in Tredegar in 1897 toa poor mining family, ‘Life of Charles Peace’. A surviving 17th century triple stone water mill. James writing and composing ‘Hen Wlad Fy that crossed the plains of South America currency of the Rhondda Valleys. At one Bevan rose to become a leading post-war Abertillery and District Museum Ebbw Vale Works Archival Trust Nhadau’ the National Anthem of Wales. Abertillery T: +44 (0)1495 211140 Ebbw Vale T: +44 (0)1495 350941 Bryn Oer Tram Road and the Siberian steppes. And talking about time countless coal mines populated the politician. His great legacy is the National Artefacts from prehistoric times to the present Complete archive of steel making at Ebbw Vale. Talybont T: +44 (0)1495 355937 rails, Merthyr was home to the first steam- Rhondda Fawr (big) and Rhondda Fach (little) Health Service, which came into being on day including a well-stocked mining collection. Miners Family Statue Tram way dating from 1814 linking the quarries Six Bells Mining Memorial Llwynypia T: +44 (0)1443 424180 with the canal at Talybont. powered railway (see ‘Valleys Tales’ for valleys. That bygone era lives on at the Rhondda 5 July 1948. Thanks again Nye. Abertillery Brecon Mountain Railway Tredegar Town Clock details). Staying on track, just north of the Heritage Park near Pontypridd. Based at an Sandstone memorial commemorating the 1961 Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 722988 Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 722352 town centre there’s the Brecon Mountain old mine, it’s an entertaining and eye-opening The Changing Cynon Valley mining disaster that took 45 lives. Steams into the heart of the Brecon Beacons. The tallest freestanding cast iron clock in the Big Pit National Coal Museum Cefn Coed Viaduct UK. A testament to the history of iron making. Railway, a scenic narrow-gauge line running insight into everything from mining disasters Call into the Cynon Valley Museum and Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 790311 Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 723112 Bedwellty Park and House into the foothills of the Brecon Beacons. to the role of women in the Valleys (a feisty Gallery, Aberdare, and take an interactive Take a tour of a real coal mine Built in 1866 consisting of 15 arches. Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 355937 Merthyr’s blast furnaces also created vast subject that deserves a museum just to itself). ‘Footprints through Time’ journey to see Blaenafon Community Heritage Cyfarthfa Castle Museum and Home to the largest single block of coal ever cut. and Cordell Museum Art Gallery Some 15 tons in weight it was cut from The Yard wealth - as you’ll see at Cyfarthfa Castle, the There’s also a thrilling trip to ‘pit bottom’ how life has changed here over the last few Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 790991 Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 723112 level in Tredegar. former home of an all-powerful ironmaster and simulated coal truck ride. hundred years. See the audio visual Discover the history of the town and trace Georgian mansion owned by the Crawshay family. Sirhowy Ironworks your family tree. Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 355972 that’s now a museum and art gallery. To witness presentations on the Iron Industry and the Cyfarthfa Ironworks Blaenavon Ironworks Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 723112 The little known remains of the area’s first coke- how the other half lived go to Chapel Row, Happy Anniversary Miners Strike of 1984/5. Housed in a 19th Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 792615 Once the world’s largest ironworks. Tredegar Clocktower fired furnace (1778) recently restored and conserved. a terrace of ironworkers’ cottages. Number 4 Tredegar’s free standing clocktower, the century ironworks, there’s also a decidedly Best preserved 18th century ironworks in Joseph Parry’s Cottages Aneurin Bevan Trail was the birthplace of the great composer tallest in the UK is made of iron. 21st century gallery displaying some of the WBleasetenranv Eounro Wpeo. rkmen’s Hall MSupeerrtbh eyxra Tmypdlef iolf ironworTk:e +rs4 4c o(0tt)a16g8e5s b72u3il1t12 GPorniftfyitphostoolwn RailwayT :M +4u4s (e0u)1m495 762908 TA rTeradile sgpeacrific to Bevan - theT A: r+c4h4it e(c0t) 1o4f9 t5h e3 5N5H93S7. Dr Joseph Parry, whose tear-jerking hymn Not surprising really, considering that best contemporary Welsh art, craft and design. Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 792661 in 1825. Houses a remarkable collection of railway Tredegar Local History Museum Restored to its former glory housing a cinema memorabilia. Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 722687 Myfanwy is a staple of all self-respecting the town was founded on ironmaking. Trevithick’s Tunnel and auditorium. Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 725006 Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal Artifacts reflecting the town’s iron, coal and 14/15 Blaenavon World Heritage Site The first ever steam rail tunnel linked to the Pontypool T: +44 (0)1873 881069 quarrying past. Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 792615 historic railway journey of 1804. Once the main transport route to Newport dock. Rhondda Heritage Park Declared a World Heritage site in 2000. Tyˆ Mawr Mansion and Pontypool Museum Trehafod T: +44 (0)1443 682036 Pontypool & Blaenavon Railway the Roundhouse Towers Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 752036 A living testament to the mining community of Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 792263 Nantyglo T: +44 (0)1495 355972 Displays the history of the Eastern Valley. the Rhondda Valleys. The highest standard gauge railway in preservation Built in 1816 acts as a reminder of the wealth The Old Bridge at Pontypridd Cordell Tours in England and Wales. and power of the Iron Masters. Built in 1756, with a 140ft arch, this was for South Wales Valleys T: +44 (0)1495 792615 St Peter’s Church Nantgarw China Works Museum many years the longest single-span stone Four tours around the region based on Alexander Blaenavon T: +44 (0)1495 792615 Nantgarw T: +44 (0)1443 841703 bridge in Europe. Cordell’s novels. Former Iron Town Church. View Billingsley’s exquisite porcelain and the Pontypridd Museum Brynmawr & District Local History Museum Did you know? conditions under which it was made. Pontypridd T: +44 (0)1443 490748 Brynmawr T: +44 (0)1495 313900 Blaenavon Workmen's Hall Folly Tower An 1861 chapel telling the story of the town A varied collection of everyday artifacts including Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 755764 and its people. was built by contributions furniture manufactured by the Quakers. Built in 1765 it became a popular place from iron and coal workers. Blaina Heritage Action Group Museum of pilgrimage. Blaina T: +44 (0)1495 290025 Joseph Parry’s cottage Cynon Valley Museum & Art Gallery Ynys Fach Engine House - illuminated Rhondda Heritage Park for further details of these and other venues visit www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk by HERIAN, as part of the Trail of Light www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk A Collective Voice Art and the Antipodes It’s English, Jim, Nothing sums up the Valleys’ strong sense of Why was Rolf Harris recently seen singing with the but Not As We Know It community better than a male voice choir. A Dowlais Male Voice choir? Rolf’s close connections ‘Wenglish’ is the language of the Valleys. It’s product of the 19th century, they still thrive with Merthyr Tydfil are revealed at Cyfarthfa English spoken through a filter of Welsh linguistic today. The miner-members of old might have Castle’s Art Gallery. Amongst its impressive influences, with its own voluminous, humourous been replaced by doctors and factory workers, collection you’ll find works by GF Harris, an dictionary that includes such classics as: teachers and technicians. But catch one of their eminent local artist who just happened to be Tidy: One of the most overworked Wenglish performances - or midweek rehearsals - and you’ll Rolf’s grandfather. So now you know where Rolf’s words, as the following examples show. still hear the same soaring, stirring harmonies talent came from. Cyfarthfa Castle is a treasure • tidy -fine, splendid that makes the hairs on the back of your neck chest of art. Take a look at itspaintings by Jack B • a tidy spell -quite a long time stand on end. Ask locally for details. Yeats and Penry Williams - and, bringing things • a tidy step -quite a long way bang up to date, something by a certain R Harris. • a tidy fellow -a decent chap, probably Country Classic ‘good with his hands’ The Rape of the Fair Country is the best known It’s a Model House • a tidy bit in the bank - plenty of money of Alexander Cordell’s many novels. He took his Llantrisant is a quaint little town of narrow, steep inspiration from the people and places of the streets, ranged around an historic Bullring. It’s an A leading scholar and exponent of the Welsh Valleys, creating a vivid picture of life in industrial individualistic kind of place, quite different to the /English dialect is John Edwards from Abercynon. South Wales. Follow in his footsteps on a Cordell archetypal Valleys communities further north. According to John we can all Talk Tidy (speak Country Tour. Free leaflets describe four tours There’s lots of individual flair and skill on display properly). That’s the title of one of his books on 16/17 covering Blaenavon, Aberdare, Merthyr Tydfil and too, at Model House Craft and Design Centre. the subject - and there’s CDs too. Culture and the arts have always the Manic Street Preachers and the Jones, the Valleys’ foremost young poet. Rhondda/Caerphilly. There’s an annual Cordell One of Wales’s leading centres for craft and design, Or you can try a bit of Welsh, one of Europe's played an important part in Valleys Stereophonics. Exciting contemporary It was commissioned by BBC Radio Wales Festival and Literary Competition too - and when it boasts artists’ studios and workshops and a oldest languages, it's very lyrical and good fun life. And so it goes on. artists and craftspeople are bringing and set to music by Mike Peters of The Alarm. you’re in Blaenavon call into the Community gallery/exhibition space for everything from glass to pronounce. Some of the 19th-century chapels and fresh vision and inspiration to the Valleys. Heritage Centre and Cordell Museum. to ceramics, jewellery to textiles. www.talktidy.com miners’ institutes nowadays serve as arts Here’s a sample: www.bwrdd-yr-iaith.org.uk and entertainment centres. Along with The Bells of Rhymney Revisited Now is the time to show our unity theatres and modern, purpose-built The Bells of Rhymney is perhaps the best Plead the proud bells of Treorchy centres they stage everything from known of all the songs to come from the Let us make space to breathe, comedy to the classics, pop to Blues to Valleys. You’ve surely heard it. Written in 1957 breathe, breathe opera. They’re all part of a rich and by folk legend Pete Seeger, the bittersweet Say the golden bells of Pontypridd evolving cultural scene that has its ballad was based on lyrics by local poet Idris Let’s all vow to learn and renew roots in those communities of old. Davies. It became a folk rock standard recorded Bleed the blackened bells of Fochriw But today the Valleys have a new voice. by everyone from The Byrds to Cher. There’s We won’t fade into dumb obscurity Male voice choirs share the stage with now a new version, with words by Patrick Chime the glorious bells of Rhymney. Did you know? The world famous designer Laura Ashley was born in Station Terrace, Merthyr Tydfil. The Gift Shop at Cyfarthfa Castle Model House and William Price, Llantrisant Cordell Museum and Library feel the hwyl www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk a selection of venues listed alphabetically by the nearest town Coliseum Theatre Arts Factory World of Grogg Aberdare T: +44 (0)1685 881188 Ferndale T: +44 (0)1443 757954 Pontypridd T: +44 (0)1443 405001 A beautifully refurbished 1930’s Theatre. A community based programme of activities. World famous Groggs, famous for its unique Cynon Valley Museum and Art Gallery Gwyliau Cymru Festivals of Wales hand sculpted figurines. Aberdare T: +44 (0)1685 886729 T: +44 (0)1492 573760 Parc Bryn Bach Country Park This museum and art gallery tells the history Gwyliau Cymru is the collective voice of around Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 711816 of Aberdare. 60 arts festivals that are held the length and Regular exhibitions and arts and crafts workshops. The Met breadth of Wales. They range from large- Tredegar Little Theatre Abertillery T: +44 (0)1495 322510 scale national events to smaller, community Tredegar T: +44 (0)1495 724979 The Valleys’ newest arts venue. The recently celebrations. Home of Tredegar Thespians hosting both refurbished Cultural, Conference and Community The ancient hill town of Llantrisant Llantrisant home grown and touring companies. centre with everything from Blues music to Llantrisant Old Town is steeped in history, but Rhondda Heritage Park craft events. Llantarnam Grange nowadays the town is becoming recognised as Trehafod T: +44 (0)1443 682036 Blackwood Miners’ Institute Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 483321 a craft centre with a plethora of small shops Holds regular arts and crafts exhibitions. Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 224425 Aanrtds wanodr kcsrhaoftps sc.entre hosting regular exhibitions with their own distinct character and gifts. Parc & Dare Theatre Good venue with a wide variety of events The Model House Craft & Design Centre Treorchy T: +44 (0)1443 773112 providing auditorium, bar and restaurant. Beaufort Theatre Llantrisant T: +44 (0)1443 237758 This theatre/cinema dates back to 1913 and Blaenau Gwent Blues Club Ebbw Vale T: +44 (0)1495 355800 A beautiful art gallery with shop, plus artists boasts one of the largest screens in Wales. T: +44 (0)1495 355800 Blaenau Gwent Blues Club regularly hold studios. events here. Events held at two venues featuring top Cyfarthfa Castle & Art Gallery international artists. Free membership offering The Art of Shopping Merthyr Tydfil T: +44 (0)1685 723112 discounted tickets, regular mailing service and There are many excellent town shopping centres A Georgian mansion, with art gallery, originally prize giveaways. dotted throughout the Valleys providing a choice owned by the Crawshay family. of individual shops like the new courtyard in Candle Workshop at Gelligroes Mill Pontypool Museum 18/19 Pontypool. Or if you like your designer brands Diary dates for 2008: Blackwood T: +44 (0)1495 222322 Pontypool T: +44 (0)1495 752036 Discover the traditional art of candle making. bFeustt idvaol nShoot pwpainngt Cteon ptraey i nt hEeb bpwri cVeasle v aisnidt gthete Regular changing and permanent art exhibitions. There are two Blues/Jazz Festivals There’s no secret about it. The Welsh The Green Lady Absolutely Fabulous Congress Theatre 50% off high street prices. Muni Arts Centre that are a must. Cwmbran T: +44 (0)1633 868239 T: +44 (0)1495 350010 Pontypridd T: +44 (0)1443 485934 Abertillery Blues 17-20 July love to talk - and are happy to admit it. Caerphilly Castle’s wonky leaning tower If travelling from Cardiff to the Valleys, from Popular venue offering a variety of quality Enjoy film, shows, exhibitions at one of the It’s especially so in the Valleys, where isn’t its only strange sight. If you wander the J32 of the M4 look up to your right and see concerts and plays. leading Valleys’ venues. Ponty Jazz 31 Aug-Sept you’ll soon find yourself in conversation battlements on a moonless, brooding night the magical Castell Coch at Tongwynlais. It is with the locals in shops, pubs and cafés. you might see the Green Lady. Modern soap the ultimate fairytale castle, straight out of for further details of these and other venues visit www.wisdomandwalks.co.uk This love of language is part of an oral operas have nothing on medieval tales of the pages of Hans Christian Anderson. The tradition that goes back over a thousand love and betrayal, life and death. The Green theme continues inside. Its extravagant years to the time of the bards, storytellers Lady was a French princess thwarted in her decorations include fantastic murals depicting and poets. There are thousands of tales love of a Welsh nobleman and doomed scenes from Aesop’s Fables. Can you spot the too - of ghostly spirits and ladies of forever to wander the castle in a green ‘Quack Frog’ holding a bottle of medicine the lake, dragons and devils, Celtic robe that signifies envy. for the frog in his throat? Or the monkey myth and chivalry. Here are just a few Why envy? It’s a long, long story…. with Victorian side-whiskers? to whet your appetite. Ask someone in Caerphilly. Did you know?On the windy summit of Mynydd Maendy south of Tonyrefail is a burial chamber reputed to Festival Park, Ebbw Vale The World of Groggs Pontypool Museum be the grave of the chieftain later known as King Arthur.