Wine Productio Technology in the United States In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. Wine Production Technology in the United States Maynard A . Amerine, EDITOR Wine Institute A symposium sponsored by the Division of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry at the Second Chemical Congress of the North American Continent (180th ACS National Meeting), Las Vegas, Nevada, August 26, 1980. ACS SYMPOSIUM SERIES 145 AMERICAN CHEMICAL SOCIETY WASHINGTON, D. C. 1981 In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. Library of Congress Data Wine production technology in the United States. (ACS symposium series; 145 ISSN 0097-6156) Includes bibliographies and index. 1. Wine and wine making—United States—Con- gresses. I. Amerine, Maynard Andrew, 1911- . II. Amer- ican Chemical Society. Division of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry. III. Series: American Chemical Society. ACS symposium series; 145. TP57.W69 63'.2'0973 80-28041 ISBN 0-8412-0596-5 ISBN 0-8412-0602-3 (pbk.) ACSMC8 145 1-229 1981 Copyright © 1981 American Chemical Society All Rights Reserved. The appearance of the code at the bottom of the first page of each article in this volume indicates the copyright owner's consent that reprographic copies of the article may be made for personal or internal use or for the personal or internal use of specific clients. This consent is given on the condition, however, that the copier pay the stated per copy fee through the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 or 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. 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PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. A C S Symposium Series M. Joa Advisory Board David L. Allara James P. Lodge Kenneth B. Bischoff Marvin Margoshes Donald D. Dollberg Leon Petrakis Robert E. Feeney Theodore Provder Jack Halpern F. Sherwood Rowland Brian M. Harney Dennis Schuetzle W. Jeffrey Howe Davis L. Temple, Jr. James D. Idol, Jr. Gunter Zweig In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. FOREWORD The ACS SYMPOSIU a medium for publishing symposi quickly format of the Series parallels that of the continuing ADVANCES IN CHEMISTRY SERIES. Papers are reviewed under the super- vision of the Editors with the assistance of the Series Advisory Board and are selected to maintain the integrity of the sym- posia; however, verbatim reproductions of previously published papers are not accepted. Both reviews and reports of research are acceptable since symposia may embrace both types of presentation. In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. PREFACE *his symposium considers the current technological status of wine- 1 - - making in the United States—how various types of wine are now actually made. In 1973, a symposium on wine chemistry featured the status of our knowledge of the various constituents of wine, their deter- mination, and their relation to wine technology. ACS ADVANCES IN CHEMISTRY SERIES No. 137, Chemistry of Winemaking, A. D. Webb, Ed., is the collected proceeding new technology discusse now arrived in our wineries and is being used there. To place the current industry in perspective, there isf irsta chapter on the period before 1960. The slow growth of the industry over more than 300 years and the disastrous results of national Prohibition from 1919 to 1933 are outlined. The technical and economic problems of the immediate post-prohibition period are also considered. The post-1960 developments for various types of wine and different regions of the country are the substance of the remaining chapters. White table wines are now the most important wines produced in California's north coastal region, and consumption is increasing. The new techno- logical procedures being used in their production are particularly empha- sized. Some indication of future trends is also included. Red and rosé table wines of high quality are traditionally produced in the north coastal region of California. The importance of grape variety, region, malo-lactic fermentation, blending, and method of aging are noted. The increasing demand for table wines and the decreasing demand for dessert wines has resulted in the increased production of table wines in the central valley of California. Statistical data to indicate the volume of table wine produced in this region are given. The warm climatic conditions of this region pose special problems in harvesting grapes and making wines. The procedures developed to improve the quality of the wines are discussed in this chapter. The production of sherry types of wines has been a feature of the California wine industry for about 100 years. The chapter on their pro- duction emphasizes the new technology of submerged-yeast culture that has been developed to produce distinctive types of wine. Information on their composition during production is also included. ix In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. Sparkling wines are produced in various parts of the United States. The several types produced, the methods used to produce them, and the effect of the various procedures on composition and potential quality are outlined. The importance of labor-saving procedures is emphasized. Wines have been produced in the state of Washington for a number of years, but the major increase in wine production there is recent. The particular climatic, varietal, and technical problems of producing wines in this region are discussed in detail. Wines have been produced east of the Rocky Mountains since the sixteenth century. More wine was produced there than in California until 1880. The specific climatic conditions and the varieties used in this region are different from those of California, Washington, or Oregon. Not only are the varieties different but their ripening is, too. This has resulted in a type of win elsewhere. These productio procedure specia regard to the introduction of new varieties and to renewed interest in wine quality. The authors conceive of the text as being useful to a wide audience: chemists, enologists, viticulturalists, and those interested in wine pro­ duction and wines. For this wide audience we have used the most familiar measures: acres and gallons, but °C and mg and mL when appropriate. In some cases two systems are given. It is evident that the American wine industry is now technologically more advanced viticulturally and enologically than most other countries. Thanks to this, the average quality of our wines is high and our finer wines are among the best produced. The authors and editor wish to thank the staff of the Wine Institute of San Francisco for their assistance in securing statistical data and illustrations, for preparing thef iguresa nd slides, and especially for typing of the manuscript. MAYNARD A. AMERINE St. Helena, California July, 1980 χ In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. 1 D e v e l o p m e n t o f the A m e r i c a n W i n e Industry to 1960 1 MAYNARD A. AMERINE University of California, Davis, CA 95616, and Wine Institute, 165 Post Street, San Francisco, CA 94108 hen the European settlers established their colonies along the Atlantic Wseaboard, they almost immediately turned their attention to harvesting native grapes and producing wine Adams (1) credits the French Huguenots with making thef irstw ine between 1562 and 1564 at Jacksonville, Florida. He also reports the Jamestown settlers made wine in Virginia in 1609 (1608 according to Wagner, 2) and the Mayflower Pilgrims at Plymouth in 1623. Presumably, these early wines were madef romg rapes that the settlers found growing wild. Early Experiments East of the Rocky Mountains Various incentives were offered to encourage winemaking: European vines (Vitis vinifera) and vine dressers were brought to Maryland, the Caro- linas, Virginia, Pennsylvania, etc. There are numerous records on importa- tion of vines from Europe before and after the Revolution. Plantings also were made in Georgia, Rhode Island, and New York. As the settlers moved into the Ohio Valley, they repeated their attempts to grow V. vinifera with no greater success. Some plantings of the European grapes succeeded for a time but sooner or later most died. It was not for lack of care or interest. The problems were primarily climatic: excessively cold wintersf orc old-sensitive V. vinif- era varieties and high humidity during the growing period. The periodic cold winters partially, and sometimes completely, killed the vines. The humid growing seasons fanned the growth of endemic cryptogamic diseases: downy and powdery mildew, anthracnose, black rot, etc. The death of the vine in the South Atlantic states may have been attributable to Pierce's disease, a bacterial disease that we will laterf indi n California. Fungicides to control mildew, etc. were still far in the future. Finally, in many areas the native root louse, phylloxera, probably destroyed the susceptible V. vinifera varieties. Current address: P.O. Box 208, St. Helena, CA 94574. 0097-6156/81/0145-0001$06.75/0 ° 1981 American Chemical Society In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981. 2 WINE PRODUCTION T E C H N O L O G Y IN T H E UNITED STATES From the latter part of eighteenth century new varieties of grapes began to appear. Some of these appear to have been domestications of the native American species, V . labrusca and V . rotundifolia. Others of the new varieties appear to be inadvertent nursery crosses of local species and V . vinifera. Concord (the most popular) appears to be primarily V . hbrusca. See Figure 1. Alexander (the first new variety) and Delaware were apparently V . fobrusca Χ V . vinifera crosses. V . rotundifolia was not hybridized but a number of different selections of wild grapes were made. By 1800 there was a great interest in developing the American grape and wine industry. This was encouraged by state and federal agencies as well as by private interests. For example, Thomas Jefferson was a great exponent of wine drinking and encouraged the grape industry, even importing and planting vines in Virginia Commercial Success the new varieties, first in Pennsylvania and later in New York and elsewhere. The first highly successful large-scale development was in Ohio. This was largely attributable to Nicholas Longworth and his col­ leagues, who envisaged the Ohio Valley as the Rhineland of America. Their greatest success was with Catawba, another hybrid (though no one knows how much V . labrmca it contains). Largely white table wine was produced and considerable sparkling wine was made. Ohio also soon planted exten­ sive vineyards along the shores and on some of the islands of Lake Erie. R. M. Pool Figure 1. Cluster of concord grapes In Wine Production Technology in the United States; Amerine, M.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1981.