Wnllil® ffi c::J ~®]])u:n®IKli:lffi]])~ ~ffi[[])® ee excelsior editions State University of New York Press Albany, New York WnlID®=CD ffiS®lIDLtn®)]])CDmt~ ~CD)]])® The Adventures of an Amateur Winemaker Turned Professional ~~ Published by State University of New York Press, Albany Text copyright © 1984 by Mark Miller. Illustrations copyright © 1984 by M.A.R.C. International, Gallery in a Vineyard. Published by arrangement with HarperCollins Publishers. All rights reserved. First Excelsior Editions paperback printing: 2009 Excelsior Editions is an imprint of State University of New York Press, Albany www.sunypress.edu Printed in the United States of America No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission. No part of this book may be stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means including electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of the publisher. For information, contact State University of New York Press, Albany, NY www.sunypress.edu Production by Eileen Meehan Marketing by Fran Keneston Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Miller, Mark, 1919–2008. Wine—a gentleman’s game : the adventures of an amateur winemaker turned professional / Mark Miller. — Excelsior ed. p. cm. ISBN 978-1-4384-2932-8 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Benmarl Vineyards. 2. Wine and wine making—New York (State)—New York. I. Title. TP557.M53 2009 338.7'663200974734—dc22 2009014347 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Contents introduction The "gentleman 5 game "? 1 chapter I The Road to a Dream 7 Early introduction to wine. First wine travels abroad include a dinner at Tour d'Argent with Harry Truman. First visit to the COte d'Or . .. a glimpse of paradise! We find Ben marl. chapter 1/ The Initiation 27 The first fumbling efforts to become grape farmers. Selecting varieties, choice of equipment, preparation of planting sites. chapter III A Baclcward Glance 41 We learn about the early history of Benmarl. Andrew Jaclcson Caywood, pioneer viticulturist who helped make the Hudson region the birthplace of American viticulture. Phylloxera and the early efforts to combat if. viii CONTENTS chapter IV Our First Year 53 We begin to farm in earnest. The old style and the new style of farming provide some funny contrasts. Benmarl gets its name. Recollections of my Oldahoma heritage. The first sweet taste of wine. chapter V Crowth and Change 79 Ben marl, the "country place, " becomes "home. " First efforts to create farm wineries. Hard times threaten. We rebuild the old vineyards. Our harvest picking party. A visit from the IRS. My art career forces us 10 move n~ fo Europe. I say goodbye 10 Benmarl. Bu,~ndy ~~ ,h'ph, VI Th' y"", 93 ____ Life in a French wine village. Ceremonial dining in Burgundy. The "Trois Clorieuses. " Fete de 51. Vincenf. The great and small of Burgundy. Tall tales, Tartarin and Paul Bunyan joust. A Burgundian vigneron accompanies me to Ben marl.