4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Nicaragua Affable Nicaragua embraces travelers with offerings of volcanic landscapes, colonial architecture, sensational beaches and pristine forests that range from breathtaking to downright incredible. Beaches Colonial Splendor Whether it’s dipping your toes into the Nicaragua’s colonial splendor comes in two crystalline Caribbean or paddling out to distinct, but equally appealing, flavors. The the crashing waves of the pounding Pacific, elegant streetscapes of Granada have been Nicaragua’s beaches always deliver the entrancing travelers for centuries with their goods. The big barrels of Rivas are revered architectural grace. It’s Nicaragua’s best- in surfing circles while the clear waters of preserved colonial town and boasts a me- the Corn Islands are superb for snorkeling. ticulously restored cathedral, well-groomed More sedentary beach bums can choose plaza and perfectly maintained mansions between accessible slices of sand lined with that shelter lush internal courtyards. Far less fine restaurants and happening bars or polished, working-class León offers a differ- natural affairs backed by a wall of rainfor- ent colonial experience where your crum- est. Even the best beaches in the country bling 300-year-old houses come interspersed are refreshingly free of development, so with revolutionary murals and architectural you can experience them just as nature masterpieces housing corner stores. It’s a intended. vibrant city that, while proud of its heritage, is too busy to feel like a museum. Outdoor Adventures Getting off the Beaten Track Looking for the ultimate rush? Nicara- gua’s diverse geography, intense energy There are few destinations with such beauty and anything-goes attitude is perfect for that are as undeveloped as Nicaragua. Before exhilarating outdoor adventures. Get ready you know it, you’ve dropped off the tourist to check a whole gamut of new experiences trail and into a world of majestic mountains, off your list including: surfing down an cooperative farms, wetlands thronged with active volcano, diving through underwater wildlife and empty jungle-clad beaches. caves, canoeing through alligator-infested Forge on and discover remote indigenous wetlands, swimming across sea channels communities, overgrown pre-Columbian between tiny white-sand islands and land- ruins and untouched rainforests. No matter ing a 90-plus-kg tarpon beneath a Spanish how far you go, you’ll always find friendly fortress in the middle of the jungle. There’s locals who are more than willing to share no signs, no crowds and no holding back. their culture with strangers. 5 M ARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IM AGES © Why I Love Nicaragua By Alex Egerton, Author Upon arriving in Nicaragua, like so many others I was captivated by the youthful energy and crumbling colonial charm of León, a city quite unlike others I had known. But after settling down there I soon identified the unparalleled adventure opportunities that were waiting on my doorstep and up and left to the wild Caribbean Coast. Now I live on the placid shores of Pearl Lagoon where I spend most of my spare time paddling my sea kayaks around the bays, up the jungle creeks and around the stunning Pearl Keys. Every trip’s a new experience. For more about our authors, see page 320 Above: A bungalow on Little Corn Island 8 Nicaragua’s Top 15 9 Granada Little Corn Island Granada (p83) is a town of immense With no cars and no noise, just white- 1 2 and palpable magnetism. At the heart sand beaches and secluded coves of the city’s charms are the picture-perfect mixing it with the crystal-clear Caribbean, cobblestone streets, polychromatic co- Little Corn Island (p237) is the paramount lonial homes and churches, and a lilting place to take a break from the big city. air that brings the city’s spirited past into There is plenty to keep you occupied during present-day tight focus. Most trips here the day, including diving with hammerhead begin and end on foot, and simply dawdling sharks and through underground caves, from gallery to restaurant to colonial church kitesurfing the stiff breeze and scrambling can take up the better part of a day. From over jungle-covered headlands. And there’s there, it’s off to explore the myriad wild just enough to do at night, too. Add some areas, islands, volcanoes and artisan vil- great food to the mix and it’s no surprise lages nearby. Catedral de Granada that many find it so hard to leave. MLENNY PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IM ANDREW BARGERY / ALAMY © AGES © 10 León Isla de Ometepe A royal city with revolutionary under- Lago de Nicaragua’s beloved center- 3 4 currents, León both enchants and piece, Isla de Ometepe (p112) has it all: baffles. Within the city, you’ll find an artsy, twin volcanoes, lush hillsides cut by walking slightly edgy vibe originally fueled by the tracks, archaeological remains, ziplines, P Sandinista revolution and now by the uni- monkeys and birdlife, waterfalls, lapping L A versity (p148) and a 120-horsepower party waves at your doorstep, and a laid-back N Y scene. Come sunrise, you can spend a good island air that keeps travelers in the now as O day exploring the Catedral (p143), muse- they make their way through this lost para- UR ums and downtown area, before heading dise found again. At the heart of the island’s T out to honey-blonde beaches, volcanoes charms are the cool hostels, camping areas RIP and Old West cowboy towns. View from León and peaced-out traveler scenes. Custom- N Catedral fit your experience from high-end luxury IC lodges to groovy-groupie hippie huts. A R A G u 3 A ’S TOP 15 CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IM AGES © 4 JOHN COLETTI / GETTY IM AGES © 11 5 6 JOHN GIUSTINA / ALAMY © PETE NIESEN / ALAMY © PL A N Y O U R T R IP N IC A R 7 A G MARVIN DEL CI / GETTY IMAGES © uA’S TOP 15 Río San Juan Pearl Keys Coffee Country 5 Once favored by 6 As you approach the 7 A visit to Nicaragua’s pirates and prospec- dozen tiny islands coffee zone is about tors as a path to riches, ringed by snow-white sand more than just sipping today the Río San Juan is and brilliant Caribbean plenty of joe, it’s about get- exalted by nature lovers. waters that make up the ting out and seeing where All along the river, scores Pearl Keys (p230), you it all comes from. Hike of birds nest on branches will enter the realms of the among the bushes shaded overhanging its slow surg- ultimate shipwreck fan- by ethereal cloud forest ing waters while its lower tasy. Fortunately, you’ll be around Jinotega (p189) and reaches are dominated by marooned with a capable pick ripe cherries alongside the Reserva Biológica In- Creole guide that will cook your hosts in a community dio-Maíz (p256), an impen- up a spectacular seafood farming cooperative near etrable jungle that shelters meal and source ice-cold Matagalpa (p194). And jaguars and troupes of beers from a mysterious why stop there when you noisy monkeys. The only supply, leaving you more can follow the beans to the artificial attraction along time to swim, snorkel, spot roasting plant and then the river’s entire length sea turtles, or just lie back learn to identify flavors in a is the grand Spanish fort in your hammock and take cupping session. After this, (p254) over the rapids at in the idyllic panoramic you’ll savor your morning El Castillo. views. cup in a whole new way. Coffee beans from the mountains of Matagalpa 12 8 9 PLAN Y CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IMAGES © WAYNE LYNCH / GETTY IMAGES © O U R T R IP N IC A R A G u A ’S T O P 1 5 Surfing near San Turtles at Islas Solentiname Juan del Sur La Flor The Islas Solenti- 10 Nicaragua sparked into Head to Nicaragua’s name (p247) are 8 9 international stardom southern Pacific coast straight out of a fairy tale. on the wake of tanned-and- between July and January You simply must visit in toned surfer dudes and to witness sea turtles by order to experience the dudettes. And the surfing the thousands come to magic of this remote scene north and south of shore to lay their eggs at jungle-covered archi- regional hub San Juan del Refugio de Vida Silvestre pelago where a community Sur (p127) remains cooled- La Flor (p137). There’s of exceptionally talented back, reefed-out, soulful a decent beach here, as artists live and work and downright brilliant. The well, but the highlight is a among the wild animals stars of the scene are the night tour (generally from that are their inspiration. long rideable waves that nearby San Juan del Sur), It’s a place where an en- fit the bill for surfers of all where, if you’re lucky, lightened priest inspired a abilities, but the chillaxed you’ll see a leatherback or village to construct a hand- surf camps, beach parties olive ridley mama come to some church alive with and cool breezes add to the shore to lay her eggs at the the sounds of nature and vibe, making a beach vaca- end of one of nature’s most shooting stars illuminate tion here work for every- inspiring and remarkable the speckled night sky. body in your crew (even the journeys. Even having been there, boogie boarders). you still find it hard to be- lieve it’s real. Woman painting a balsa-wood carved chicken 13 10 M ARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN Y O U R T R IP N IC A R A G u A ’S T O P 1 5 11 Volcán Masaya 1NtMeiaac1suaa,r yat Hahagre ouat viasnsem’dasr nioCint lvsegdi n slealaturbrigrnaorelgov sP euV ol natofhd- lceiná gn JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IM nsiantgiounlaarl hpiagrhkl i(gph7t3 n) oatr teo a b e AGES © missed by volcanophiles, nature lovers and adven- ture seekers alike. This is one of the region’s most active volcanoes, and it’s pretty exciting to see the sulfurous columns of gas billow toward the sky as you relish the million-dollar views. Super-fun short treks take you to lava caves and butterfly gardens. Come sunset, an eerie bat tour tops off your adventure. 14 Wildlife-Watching Canopy Tour in Managua From the colorful parakeets flying Big-brawling Managua doesn’t 12 13 over busy Managua to ubiquitous make it onto many traveler top 10 iguanas scratching across your hotel roof, lists, and one of the best parts of visiting exotic wildlife is everywhere in Nicaragua. this city is getting away. But you won’t P Dedicate some energy to the pursuit and have to go far. Within the city’s confines, L A you’ll discover some truly phenomenal the Parque Historico Nacional Loma de N Y natural spectacles. Head into the rugged Tiscapa (p43) is home to the silhouetted O rainforest-covered mountains of the Bo- statue of Augusto Sandino and was once UR sawás (p214) to spot three types of mon- the site of the presidential palace. Today T keys, toucans and tapirs, while reptile fans the highlight of the park is a homegrown RIP will not want to miss getting close to the canopy-tour operation that swings you N alligators of Los Guatuzos (p251). Wherever through the lush foliage. Zipline canopy tour, IC you go, keep your binoculars handy. Baby Parque Historico Nacional Loma de Tiscapa A green iguana R A G u A ’S 12 13 TOP 15 PAUL KENNEDY / GETTY IMAGES © KIKE CALVO / GETTY IMAGES © 15 14 CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IM PL AGES © AN Y O U R T R IP N IC A R A G u A ’S T O P 15 1 5 PICTUREGARDEN / GETTY IM AGES © Volcano Boarding on Reserva Natural Estero Cerro Negro Padre Ramos What goes up must come down. But The Reserva Natural Estero Pa- 14 15 why walk, when you can strap on a dre Ramos (p167) is a vast nature custom-built volcano board and rip-roar reserve located in the far northwestern your way down a slope of fine volcanic ash? corner of Nicaragua. The largest remaining That’s the genesis of volcano surfing. And mangrove forest in Central America, the one of the best spots on the planet to dig reserve is home to ocelots, alligators and this new adrenaline sport is atop 700-plus- a universe’s worth of birds. While this is a meter Volcán Cerro Negro in northwestern wild corner of Nicaragua, basic tourist serv- Nicaragua’s Reserva Natural Pilas–El Hoyo ices will get you into the spider-webbing (p159). Tour operators in León will even mangrove forest, to the beaches where sea provide you with cool jumpsuits for your turtles lay their eggs and good surf domi- dusty-bottomed descent. nates, and into local communities.