Medieval Church Studies 12 Weaving, Veiling, and Dressing Textiles andt heir Metaphors in the Late Middle Ages telo n e o u tre ra i u u m o rg im o u im y c ' ü û tg tï ju áu c en» lu m i III ràntr'nnec uno g l tin e' p nuxô'Dic weenie iim tio m c ' xct D im m i ¿unno p ÿtxrft m i near it nette mxö îaatie^ n iiic m u ettíêir Dim e Edited by Kathryn M. Rudy and Barbara Baert W eaving , Veiling , and D ressing MEDIEVAL CHURCH STUDIES 12 W eaving , Veiling , and D ressing Textiles and their Metaphors in the Late Middle Ag Edited by Kathryn M. Rudy and Barbara Baert BREPOLS British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Weaving, veiling, and dressing : textiles and their metaphors in the late Middle Ages. - (Medieval church studies ; 12) 1. Textile fabrics - Religious aspects 2. Textile fabrics - Europe - History 3. Christian art and symbolism - Medieval, 500-1500 I. Rudy, Kathryn M. II. Baert, Barbara 246.2 ISBN-13: 9782503515274 © 2007, Brepols Publishers n.v., Turnhout, Belgium All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. D/2007/0095/1 ISBN: 978-2-503-51527-4 Printed in the E.U. on acid-free paper Contents List of Figures vii List of Plates xix Introduction: Miraculous Textiles in Exempla and Images i from the Low Countries KATHRYN M. RUDY Part One: Weaving Weaving 39 BARBARA BAERT Weaving Mary’s Chaplet: The Representation of the Rosary 41 in Late Medieval Flemish Manuscript Illumination ANNE MARGREET W. AS-VIJVERS Praying, Threading, and Adorning: Sewn-in Prints in a 81 Rosary Prayer Book (London, British Library, Add. MS 14042) HANNEKE VAN ASPEREN The Representation and Meaning of Luxurious Textiles in 121 Fran co-Flemish Manuscript Illumination MARGARET L. GOEHRING Part Two: Veiling Veiling 159 BARBARA BAERT Raising the Curtain on the Use of Textiles in Manuscripts 161 CHRISTINE SCIACCA Curtains, Revelatio, and Pictorial Reality in Late Medieval 191 Renaissance Italy VICTOR M. SCHMIDT Mantle, Fur, Pallium: Veiling and Unveiling in the 215 Martyrdom of Agnes of Rome BARBARA BAERT Part Three: Dressing Dressing 241 BARBARA BAERT The Clothing of Poverty and Sanctity in Legends, and 245 their Representations in Trecento and Quattrocento Italy PHILINE HELAS Clothing, Exposure, and the Depiction of Sin in Passion 289 Iconography MARTHA BAYLESS Swaddled or Shrouded? The Interpretation of‘Chrysom’ 307 Effigies on Late Medieval Tomb Monuments SOPHIE OOSTERWIJK List of Contributors 349 Index 353 List of Figures 1. St John on Patmos, Hours of Philip of Cleves, Brussels, Koninklijke Bibliotheek, MS IV 40, fol. 15". Flanders, c. 1485. Reproduced with permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek. 2. The Virgin weaving, The Collins Hours, Philadelphia, The Philadelphia Museum of Art, MS 1945-65-4, fol. I73v. Amiens or Bruges, c. 1440. Photography courtesy of Lynn Rosenthal. Reproduced with permission of the Philip S. Collins Collection, The Philadelphia Museum of Art. 3. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Historiated initial depicting a bishop washing his hands before Mass, The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht, Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS 400, fol. ir. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450. Reproduced with permission of the Universiteitsbibliotheek. 4. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Historiated initial depicting a bishop blessing liturgical vestments, and marginal illumination depicting women weaving, The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht, Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS 400, fol. 99r. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450. Reproduced with permission of the Universiteitsbibliotheek. 5. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Historiated initial depicting a bishop consecrating a group of deacons, with liturgical vestments in the margin, The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht, Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS 400, fol. I7r. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450. Reproduced with permission of the Universiteitsbibliotheek. 6. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Detail of a marginal image depicting the pallium, The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht, Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS Vili List ofF igures 400, fol. 36'. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450. Reproduced with permission of the Universiteitsbibliotheek. 7. Willem Vrelant. Martyrdom of Thomas of Canterbury, the so-called Book of Hours of Catherine of Aragon, The Hague, Koninklijke Bibliotheek, 76 F 7, fol. 20v. Flanders, c. 1460. Reproduced with permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek. 8. Christ’s seamless garment and the five wounds of Christ, The Hague, Koninklijke Bibliotheek, KA 36, fob j6v (on permanent loan from the Koninklijke Nederlandse Academie van Wetenschappen). Brabant, c. 1390. Reproduced with permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek. 9. The Virgin in a radiant sunburst, seen through a torn curtain beside a hairshirt, The Hours of Jean Lallemant le Jeune, Baltimore, The Walters Art Museum, MS W.446, fob ijb Tours or Bourges, c. 1519—20. Reproduced with permission of The Walters Art Museum. 10. Blindfolded Christ, Book of Hours, The Hague, Koninklijke Bibliotheek 135 F 2, fob 152b Delft, 1460—80. Reproduced with permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek. 11. Masters of the Gold Scrolls. Christ’s winding cloth as one of the instruments of the Passion, London, British Library, MS Harley 3828, fob 69'. Bruges or environs, c. 1445. Reproduced with permission of the British Library. 12. Historiated initial with St Margaret, and marginal illumination with St Margaret and the Dragon, The Hague, Koninklijke Bibliotheek, 133 E 14, fob 59'. Flanders, c. 1500—10. Reproduced with permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek. 13. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Annunciation, with the Virgin wearing a letter mantle, Hours of Catharina van Lochorst, Münster, Westfälisches Landesmuseum für Kunst- und Kulturgeschichte, MS 530 LM, fob i6v. Utrecht?, c. 1440—50. Reproduced with permission of the Westfälisches Landesmuseum für Kunst- und Kulturgeschichte. 14. Simone Martini. Madonna della Misericordia (Virgin of Mercy), Siena, Pinacoteca Nazionale. Siena, c. 1308. Reproduced with permission of Scala/Art Resource, New York.