Weaving Arts the of North American Indian } By the same author: THE KACHINA AND THE WHITE MAN INDIAN ART IN NORTH AMERICA INDIAN ART IN MIDDLE AMERICA INDIAN ART IN SOUTH AMERICA KUNST IN AMERIKA, 3 vol. INDIAN ART OF THE AMERICAS THE AMERICAN INDIAN IN GRADUATE STUDIES GREAT NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS Wcdving Arts the of North American Indian Frederick Dockstader J. Thomas Y. Crowell Established 1834 New York A JAMES KERY BOOK J. To the memory of MATTHEW W. STIRLING Scholar, humanist and athlete. Above all, a warm-hearted friend who gave generously of himself to all who needed his help, and earned his respect. All rights reserved. Nopart ofthis book maybeused or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information address Thomas Y. Crowell, Publishers, 10 East 53rd Street, New York, N.Y. 10022. Published simultaneously in Canada by Fitzhenry & Whiteside Limited, Toronto. © Copyright James Kery, Ltd. 1978 J. First published in 1978 ISBN 3690-01739-1 Printed and bound in Spain by Printer industria grafica, sa Tusct, 19 Barcelona Sant Vicenc; dels Horts 1978 Deposiio Legal B.15226-1978 IJ : Contents ListofColorPlates 7 Preface 9 The Fibers ofNative American Weaving 1 A Historical Background 13 2 The Warp ofTechnique: Methodand Mannerin Weaving 53 3 The Social Weft: Effects ofWeaving upon Indian Life 69 4 The Economic Brocade: Trade and Commerce 97 5 The Web of the Fabric: A Survey ofTextile Production by Region 107 6 The Contemporary Scene: Influences, Personalities, and Markets Today 195 7 Conservation and Preservation: How to Carefor Woven Textiles 207 Bibliography 210 Index 220 Wool Vallero hlanquct The beginning of Navajo weaving? A woolen two-piece Vallero blanket, suggesting the influence upon the Navajo "Chief's Blanket" corner development, and the later zig/ag designs of the weave. Rio Grande Valley, ca. 1850. 38x50 inches. Paul Schmoike photo; Maxwell Museum of Anthropology. List of Color Plates 1 Loosefinger-weave ceinturefleche Osage •33 2 Painted cotton mantafrom Painted Cave Arizona 34 3 Weaverwith backstrap loom Maya 35 4 Weaveratvertical loom Navajo 36 5 Painted buffalo hide robe Sioux 37 6 Modernwoolshawl Hopi 38 7 Embroidered cottonceremonial shawl Hopi 39 8 Brocaded Kachinadance sash Hopi 40 9 Modern brocaded shirt Hopi 41 10 Largewoven cotton shawl Acoma 42 11 Germantownsaddle blanket Navajo 43 12 Cotton shirtwith embroidered decoration Jemez 44 13 Old-stylewoman's wool dress Navajo 45 14 Phase ir'Chief's Blanket" Navajo 46 15 Phase Iir'Chief's Blanket" Navajo 47 16 Classic Ganado "Chief's Blanket" Navajo 48 17 Woman's style "Chief's Blanket" Navajo 81 18 Zoned design wool saddle blanket Navajo 82 19 Bayetawool blanket Navajo 83 20 Germantown table runner Navajo 84 21 Germantown "eyedazzler" rug Navajo 85 22 Germantown "eyedazzler" throw Navajo 86 23 Wool blanket Navajo 87 24 Wool blanket Navajo 88 25 Woolen "eyedazzler" Navajo 89 26 Two-piece woven serape Saltillo 90 27 Two Gray Hills rug Navajo 91 28 Tourist type rug Navajo 92 29 Pullcd-wefiweave blanket Navajo 93 30 "Gallupthrow" Navajo 94 31 Serrated-design rug Navajo 95 32 Classic "Chilkai blanket" Tlingit 96 33 Mountain-goatwool danceapron Tlingit 129 34 Wool shirt with otterfurtrim Tlingit 130 35 Mountain-goat wool shirt Tlingit 131 36 Carryingbasket and wool tumpline Salish 132 37 Cedar-bark blanket; Brown Bear design Kwakiutl 133 38 Cedar-bark cape; Eagle design Kwakiutl 134 39 Elkskin pouch with quill applique Chipewyan 135 40 Net headdress with feather fringe Karok 136 41 Ceremonial headdress with painted designs Karok 137 42 Woven cornhusk "sally bag" Nez Perce 138 43 Woven cornhusk twined wallet Nez Perce 139 44 Woman's twined-weave hat Nez Perce 140 45 Early pictorial design blanket Navajo 141 46 Modern Yei design rug Navajo 142 47 Woven wool Yei rug Navajo 143 48 Woven wool Yei floor runner Navajo 144 49 Modern pictorial rug; Cornstalk and Birds Navajo 177 50 Double-faced weave blanket Navajo 178 ] 51 Woven wool pillow top Navajo 179 1 52 Modern Tees Nos Pos rug Navajo 180 ] 53 Ganado weave rug Navajo 181 54 Modern "raised outline" weave Navajo 182 ] 55 Detail of "raised outline" weave Navajo 183 56 Embroidered cotton vest Hopi 184 1 57 Zoned vegetal dye blanket Navajo 185 58 String yarn medicine pouch Potawatomi 186 59 Painted caribou-hide coat Naskapi 87 ] 60 Woven belt with trade beads Iroquois 88 61 Woolen ceinture fleche Iroquois 89 '. 62 Contemporary woven costume Hopi 90 ] 63 Man's ceremonial dance costume Hopi 91 1 Women 64 in European-style dress Navajo 92 ]