The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels in Turkey and back to England, by Edmund Chishull This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook. Title: Travels in Turkey and back to England Author: Edmund Chishull Contributor: R Mead Release Date: January 20, 2021 [eBook #64348] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 Produced by: Turgut Dincer and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive) *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN TURKEY AND BACK TO ENGLAND *** TRAVELS IN T UR K E Y AND BACK TO ENGLAND. By the late Reverend and Learned E D M U N D C H I S H U L L, B. D. Chaplain to the Factory of the Worshipful TURKEY COMPANY at SMYRNA. L ON DON, Printed by W. Bowyer in the Year mdccxlvii. [i] THE PREFACE. N o books are generally more entertaining and instructive, than the accounts of travels into foreign countries; and especially those, which are written in the way of Journals. For he, who reads such narratives, is almost apt to fancy himself in company with the traveler, and to take part with him in all his adventures; which at the same time that they shew the peculiar temper, customs, and manners of different nations, excite also a variety of passions, which by their succession please the mind, and make the chief delight even in theatrical performances. U pon this account it is, that the Letters of Busbequius, during his embassy in Turkey; and the Journies of our ingenious and learned countryman Mr. Maundrell, thro several parts of the same vast empire, which he has so accurately described; are repeatedly read, and always with new pleasure. T heref ore, when Mr. Edmund Chishull, only Son of the late Reverend Mr. Chishull, who was for some years chaplain to the Factory of our Worshipful Turkey Company at Smyrna, brought to me not many months since the present Journal of his Father’s Travels, desiring me to peruse it, and give him my opinion, whether it was a work worthy to be published; I could not refuse his request but applied myself with due care to read and examine it. And I was the more readily induced to this, as I had thro a course of many years the happiness of a perfect acquaintance with his father, even from his return home to his death; and knew him, as well from his conversation, as his writings (particularly that justly celebrated book of his Antiquitates Asiaticae) to be not only a man of uncommon learning, but likewise of great sagacity, and indefatigable diligence. A nd indeed my pains in the perusal of these papers were very well rewarded. For besides an agreable amusement common to other writings of this nature, they gave me very useful instruction as to several passages in ancient historians, and other classic authors; and at the same time illustrated many old inscriptions, several of which are now first published, and others taken with greater exactness, than had been done formerly. Hence I could not but persuade the young Gentleman to oblige the world with this work, and to have it printed in such a manner, as his freinds should advise him. Tho I easily foresaw, that the doing of this would necessarily be attended with some difficulties; as Mr. Chishull had put into writing those occurrences, which he thought worthy of his notice, at such leisure minutes, as he could snatch from the constant fatigues of his journey; and by that means had sometimes not only thrown many things together without exact order, but often left the places cited from ancient writers to be supplied out of their own works. And besides, his hand being both small and hasty, was frequently not very easy to be read; so that many of the words, as to the manner of spelling, appeared doubtful and uncertain. This made it needful to have the whole first fairly transcribed, and then to fill up the quotations. The former task therefore I committed to a professed penman, and the latter I undertook myself. In the doing of which I not only carefully compared the transcriber’s copy with the original; but had recourse to the authors themselves, and took out of them the several passages, to which the references were made. When Mr. Chishull left England, he was fellow of Corpus Christi college in Oxford, and had a grant of the traveler’s place from the president and society. He set sail from the Downs September the 12, 1698, in the Neptune frigate, Capt. Thomas commander, and arrived at Smyrna November the 19 following. During the voyage, agreably to his usual diligence, he constantly kept a Journal of what then offered. But as nothing very remarkable occurred at sea; for that reason the account of his Travels, which is here published, begins with a Journey undertaken by him some months after his settlement at Smyrna. However as in his passage he went on shoar first at Cadiz, then at Messina, and after that in the island of Milo; in each of which places he made several observations, which he afterwards sent in a Letter from Smyrna to Dr. Thomas Turner, president of his college: that Letter is likewise now published at the end of this book. But as he has generally remarked the situation, government, and other curiosities, of the most considerable cities, thro which he passed; it may seem strange, that no account is here given of Smyrna, the place of his residence, and where, as he himself tells us, he continued from November 19, 1698, to February 10, 1701-2. This however was occasioned by his design of treating upon that place in a more distinct and particular manner; for which purpose there is a large number of minutes, or heads, detached in a separate part of the book, relating both to the antient and present state of the city; which were afterwards to have been filled up, and inlarged. Tho as they are now left, nothing more appears, that can be of any service to the public, than what here follows. The antiquities now extant in this place are these. The castle, which was Roman, and where Dolabella beheaded Trebonius. The large head of Smyrna the Amazon over the gate of the same. The inscription relating to Joannes Ducas over another gate of the same, with the modern oriental eagle on both sides. The small remains of the theatre, in which S. Polycarp was burnt, lately taken to pieces to build the Vizír kane of the place, and bezesten, or market. The reliques of St. John’s church. The space and walls of an ancient cirque. All which are on the said castle hill, which [iii] [iv] [v] immediately overlooks the city. The ruins of the temple of Apollo at the foot of mount Corycus, in an olive grove, and over the θερμὰ ὕδατα. The ruins of the temple of Aesculapius, or Neptune, in the way to Eshekléer; where was lately found the head of Janus, and another of M. Modius. A rich and delicate pavement of mosaic work by the sea side, towards the north, at a place where the outer wall terminates in the shore; which possibly is the remains of the gymnasium, or some heathen temple. The several inscriptions there lately found, reported in Prideaux, or at the end of this book. The large stones of a yard and half square in a great and massy wall, now part of a kane in the Armenian street, on all of which is marked the letter V, as large as the breadth of the stone would permit. The remains of an old Roman way, paved with broad and massy stones, but smooth, in the road over the castle hill toward Ephesus. The remains of the ancient wall encompassing the pomoerium, or a large space of ground about two thousand paces distant all round from the castle, or the city. The scarcity of antiquities now to be found in Smyrna arises from hence, that it furnished the greatest part of the Marmora Arundeliana. T he inscriptions here said to be reported in Prideaux, are to be found in the Doctor’s edition of the Marmora Arundeliana. And as to those referred to at the end of our author’s book, such of them will be here subjoined, as are not in the large collection designed by him for a second part of his Antiquitates Asiaticae; of which a few sheets only, containing those which relate to Ephesus, were printed by him a little before his death, and the rest are now in my possession. I n a very pleasant valley near the bank of the river Meles, scarce thirty paces without the city. ΜΕΝΟΣ[1] ΙΕΡΟΝ ΑΦΡΟΔΙΤΗΣ ΣΤΡΑΤΟΝΙΚΙΔΟΣ[2] ... ΟΥ ΗΔΕ Κ[ΥΚ ΛΩΙ] ΤΟ ΠΑΡΑΠ[ΑΝ[3] ...ΚΕΙΜ]ΕΝΟΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΩΝ ..Π]ΛΕΘΡΩΝ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΑΣΣΕΤΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΤΑΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ[ΜΗ ΤΡΟΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ[4] O n a hill near the castle. Τ. ΦΛ. ΕΥΕΙΔΗΣ ΔΙΑΔΕΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ ΤΗΝ ΜΗΤΕΡΑ ΦΛ. ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙΣΙΑΝ ΕΩΝΗΣΑΜΕΝΗΝ ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΚΑΤΕΣΚΑΥΑΣΕΝ ΕΑΥ ΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΤΥΧΗ ΤΗ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΠΕΡ ΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΥΙΩ · ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟ ΜΕΝΟΙΣ O n a square stone in the house of the English consul, being of a later age. ΒΕΒΙΑ ΑΠΦΕΙΝΤΟ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΝϹΟΡΙΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ϹΟΡΟΝ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ ΤΩ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΟΙΚΗΜΑΤΑ ΠΡΟϹΚΕΙΜΕΝΑ · ΟΙΚΟϹ ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ[5] ΚΟΙΤΩΝ ΜΕΔΕΙΑΝΟΝ ΤΡΙΚΛΕΙΝΟΝ ΟϹΤΟΘΗΚΑΙ. Β. Ϲ. ΕΚΕΛΥϹΙϹ ΕΑΥΤΗ ΚΑΙ ϹΥΝΤΡΟΦΩ ΤΩ ΑΝΔΡΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΤΕΚΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΩΝ. ΧΑΙΡΕ ΚΑΙ ϹΥ. What he has said in relation to the present Smyrna, is as follows. S myrna is situated in the latitude of 38gr. 40m. in a deep bay, that enters within the continent about ten leagues; and is so well defended by the Erythraean promontory, now cape Kara Bornu, and mount Corycus, with the hills commonly called Cordilieu, and its own windings, that it is every where a port, affording good depths and secure anchorage. Immediately within the bay are seven islands, lying in length towards the port of Vourlá, antiently Clazomenae, which of old were called the Peristerides; and the biggest of them, Megale, is now by the English named Long Island, over against Fochia Vecchia, or Phocaea. Cape Kara Bornu, or Black Nose (antiently the ἄκρα μέλαινα) afforded, as Strabo says, excellent mill stones; which is not unknown to the present inhabitants, and therefore we there see several mills now employed. Within two leagues and a half of the city the Hermus enters the bay, and [vi] [vii] there forms a bed of sand; which being met by a point of land from the opposite shore stops up the haven by a very narrow chanel, thus rendring it κλειστὸς, as Strabo then expressed it. On the said point stands a new and strong fort, called Sangiac Castle; because the Grand Signior’s colours are there exposed, on occasions that require it. From hence we sail towards Smyrna, in a fair and long arm of the sea, which imitates the pleasures of a canal; whilst the woody mountains on each side, with the city at one end, and the castle at the other, conspire to give a mutual beauty to one another. Had our author lived to finish his elaborate account of Smyrna, from the large materials he had collected for that design, it would doubtless have been a very useful work, and thrown much light upon many passages in ancient writers. And indeed every part of his Travels must certainly have received great advantage and improvements from his review. Tho I question not, but in their present state they will meet with such a reception from the public, as will reward the labours of the learned Father, by a proper incouragement given to his industrious Son. I shall only add, that some intimation having been given of a Map, designed to be published with this book that was judged afterwards not so necessary, as at first was apprehended; since there are so many maps already extant of those countries, which make the subject of these Travels. And therefore as the principal use of such a map would have been to exhibit both the ancient and modern names of several places, which are mentioned by our author; an Index was thought more commodious for that purpose. Besides, as he has occasionally introduced many Turkish and other foreign words, without explaining them; this affords likewise an opportunity for their explication. As the benefit of the reader has been consulted in this alteration; so it is not to be doubted, but he will find the advantage of it in perusing the work. August 12, 1747. R. MEAD. [viii] THE NAMES OF THE SUBSCRIBERS. A. Lord Viscount Andover. Swithin Adee, D. M. Rev. Mr. William Allen, of Lambeth. Rev. Mr. Altham, Rector of Woodford, in Essex. Edward Andrews, Esq; Rev. Mr. Benjamin Archer. Rev. Mr. Richard Arnald, Rector of Thurcaston, Leicestershire. Rev. Dr. Astrey, Treasurer of St. Paul’s. B. Richard Earl of Burlington. Countess of Burlington. John Lord Berkeley of Straton. Dr. Martin Benson, Lord Bishop of Gloucester. Dr. Joseph Butler, Lord Bishop of Bristol. Rev. Dr. Baker, Residentiary of St. Paul’s. Sir John Barnard. Mr. Savage Barrell. Thomas Lennard Barrett, Esq; Mr. Solomon Barton. Mr. John Baxter. Mr. Jos. Baxter. Rev. Robert Beachcroft, M. A. Mr. Thomas Beale. William Belchier, Esq; Mr. George Bell. Sir Edward Bellamy. Captain Bennett. William Henry Bernard, Esq; Elias Bird, Esq; Mr. James Bird. Mr. Alexander Black. Mr. William Black. William Blackbourne, Esq; Rev. Mr. Blackbourne, Vicar of Dagenham. Sir Henry Blunt, Bart. Mr. Richard Blunt. William Blunt, Esq; John Bond, Esq; Daniel Booth, Esq; Mrs. Bowles. Benjamin Bosanquet, M. D. 4 Copies. Samuel Bosanquet, Esq; Mrs. Bosanquet. Samuel Bracebridge, of Linley, Esq; Thomas Bradshaw of Upminster, Esq; Thomas Bramston, Esq; Mr. Edward Brice. Rev. John Brice, A. M. Rev. Dr. Ralph Bridges. Rev. Mr. Bruce. Mr. Samuel Buckley. Mr. Samuel Burch. Mr. George Burrward. C. William Earl Cooper. John Lord Viscount Castlemain. Lord Charles Cavendish. Lady Colerane. Dr. Edward Chandler, Lord Bishop of Durham. Dr. Robert Clayton, Lord Bishop of Clogher. William Cartwright of Ayno, Esq; Rev. Mr. Castle, Vice-Chancellor of Cambridge. Cawley Humberston Cawley, Esq; John Cay, Esq; Sir John Chapman, Bart. Mrs. Chelton. Mr. Richard Cheslyn. Dennis Clarke, LL. D. Mrs. Mary Clarke. Mr. Richard Clarke, Jun. Mr. Thomas Clarke. Rev. John Cleeve, B. D. Mr. George Collard. Mrs. Collard. Valens Comyn, Esq; John Conyers, Esq; Mr. Richard Cooke. John Cookes, Esq; Mr. George Cornwall. Mr. William Cramond. Mr. George Crawford. Mr. Gideon Crawford. Mr. John Crichlowe. Mr. David Crichston. Sir John Cross, Bart. Thomas Crowe, M. D. Mr. John Cruikshank. Rev. Mr. Alexander Cuningham. D. William Duke of Devonshire. William Lord Digby. Mr. Thomas Davison. Richard Dawson, Esq; Mrs. Alice Deacon. Mr. Thomas Delamotte. Dr. Patrick Delaney, Dean of Downe. Mr. William De Santhuns. Mr. William Dillingham. Mr. Robert Dobson. Mr. Woodroof Drinkwater. William Dunster, Esq; Mrs. Dunster. E. John Earl of Egmont. Mr. Thomas Eames. John Eaton, Esq; Peter Eaton, Esq; Richard Edwards, Esq; Mr. George Ellis. Mr. John Ellis. Rev. John Emerson, A. M. Mrs. Elizabeth Esson. Sir John Evelyn, Bart. Anthony Ewer, Esq; Rev. Mr. Ewer. Mr. William Ewer. Mr. Thomas Ewer. Mr. George Exton. Mr. Joseph Eyre. F. Sir Everard Fawkener. Mr. Felix Feast. Daniel Finch, Esq; Rev. Mr. John Finch. Rev. Mr. Philip Fletcher, Dean of Kildare. Mr. Thomas Fletcher. Rev. Mr. William Fletcher, Prebendary of Christ Church, Dublin. Martin Folkes, Esq; Sir Andrew Fountaine. John Forbes, Esq; Mr. Thomas Forbes. Alexander Forrester, Esq; Rev. Mr. Thomas Foxley, Rector of Stratford by Bow. Aaron Franks, Esq; Napthaly Franks, Esq; Mr. James Fuller. Thomas Fytche, Esq; G. Dr. John Gilbert, Lord Bishop of Landaff. Dr. Thomas Gooch, Lord Bishop of Norwich. Marchioness of Gray. Lady Griffin. Mr. Daniel Gallon. George Garrett, Esq; Mrs. Gibson. Mr. Richard Gildart, Jun. Mr. Francis Gillow. George Girardot, Esq; Mr. John Goddard, 2 Copies. Peter Godfrey, Esq; Mr. Sherman Godfrey. Mrs. Thomasin Gouge. Mr. James Graham, 3 Copies. Rev. Mr. Richard Graves. Charles Gray, Esq; Rev. Dr. Green, Prebendary of Worcester. Rev. Dr. Grey, Rector of Houghton Conquest, Bedfordshire. General Guise. H. Philip Lord Hardwicke, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain, 2 Copies. Lady Hardwicke. Dr. Thomas Herring, Lord Archbishop of Canterbury. Dr. Matthew Hutton, Lord Archbishop of York. Dr. Benjamin Hoadley, Lord Bishop of Winchester. Miss Hall of Upton, in Westham. Sir Joseph Hankey. James Hannott, Esq; Mr. Edward Harding. Mrs. Harle of Raynham. Mr. John Harris. Mr. Robert Harris. Mr. Peter Hartopp. William Harvey, Esq; Robert Harward, Esq; Mr. John Hatch. Mr. Coen Haverkam. Rev. William Hawkins, A. M. Fellow of Pembroke College, Oxford. Mr. Alexander Hay. Rev. Dr. Hayter, Archdeacon of York. Mrs. Mary Heilman. Mr. William Heron. Andrew Hill, Esq; Mr. Edward Hillersdon. Mr. Roger Hogg. Robert Holford, Esq; George Holmes, Esq; F. R. S. Samuel Horsman, M. D. Henry Lenoy Hunter, Esq; Rev. Dr. Thomas Hunt, Canon of Christ Church, Oxford. I. Mr. George Jackson. Samuel Jebb, M. D. Edward Ironside, Esq; Mr. Peter Jullian. William Jones, Esq; Rev. Mr. Tho. Juson, Rector of Wanstead. K. Dutchess of Kent. Mr. Richard Kee. Joseph Keeling, Esq; Mr. Benjamin Kenedy, Apothecary at Horn Church, Essex. Mr. Thomas King. Dr. William King, Principal of St. Mary’s Hall, Oxford. L. Thomas Duke of Leeds. Thomas Earl of Leicester. Countess of Leicester. Dr. Samuel Lisle, Lord Bishop of St. Asaph. Hon. William Lyttelton, one of the Lords of the Treasury. Mr. Daniel Lambert. Mr. James Leake. Joseph Letherland, M. D. —— Legendre, Esq; David Lewis, Esq; William Lewis, M. D. Smart Lethieullier, Esq; Rev. Dr. Robert Leyborne, Principal of Alban Hall, Oxford. Library of Corpus Christi College, Oxford. Library of Brasen Nose College, Oxford. Library of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. Edward Lilly, Esq; Mr. William Lindsay. Walter Long, Esq; John Loveday of Caversham, Esq; Henry Lowther, Esq; Rev. Mr. Lunn, Rector of Elsworth, Cambridgeshire. M. Charles Duke of Marlborough. George Earl of Macklesfield. Lord Charles Maynard. Dr. Isaac Maddox, Lord Bishop of Worcester. Dr. Matthias Mawson, Lord Bishop of Chichester. Mr. William Macfarland. Mr. Alexander Mackintosh. Mr. Charles Mackintosh. Mr. John Mackintosh. Mr. Alexander Macrabie. Mr. Francis Magnus. Rev. John Mall, A. M. Rev. Dr. Simon Manningham. Mr. John Manwaring. Henry March, Esq; John March, Esq; John March, Jun. Esq; Mr. Richard Markham. Robert Marsh, Esq; Rev. John Maryon, LL. B. Rev. Joseph Mather, D. D. President of Corpus Christi College, Oxford. Mr. Timothy Matthews. Sir William Maynard, Bart. Richard Mead, M. D. Mr. Thomas Melmoth. Edward Melward, M. D. Rev. Mr. Micklebourgh. Mr. Richard Molineux. Mr. William Monke, 2 Copies. James Monro, M. D. Hon. James Montague, Esq; George Montgomerie, Esq; Mr. Edward Moore. Sir Charles Mordaunt, Bart. Mr. Richard Morhall. Rev. Dr. Moss, Canon Residentiary of Sarum. Mr. James Mount. Benjamin Moyer, Esq; N. Lady Newdigate. Richard Naish, Esq; Mr. George Nelson. Mr. Thomas Nelson. Robert Nesbitt, M. D. Mr. Gabriel Neve, 5 Copies. John Newe, Esq; Mr. Richard Newman. Rev. Dr. Nicolls, Chaplain in Ordinary to his Majesty. George Nodes, Esq; Mr. James Selwyn Noke. Mr. Godfrey Noke. Mrs. Dorothy Noke. O. Arthur Onslow, Esq; Speaker of the House of Commons. General Oglethorp. Mr. Edmund Orlabeer. Mr. Gustavus Ovey. P. Thomas Earl of Pomfret; John Earl of Portsmouth. Countess of Portland. Lord Viscount Palmerston. Lady Palmerston. Dr. John Potter, late Lord Archbishop of Canterbury. Lord Chief Baron Parker. Mr. Clement Paillet. John Paterson, Esq; Robert Paul, Esq; Rev. Dr. Pelling. Mr. James Pennett. Miss Barbara Pepys. Philip Percivall, Esq; Rev. Thomas Persehouse, A. M. Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of Gordon. Messieurs Philips and Wood. Rev. Mr. Roger Pickering, 2 Copies. Mr. John Powell. Rev. Mr. John Powell, of Raynham. Joseph Pratt, Esq; Mr. Richard Pratt. Mr. Andrew Pringle. Mr. Arthur Pullinger. Mr. Richard Pyott. Q. Mr. Thomas Quarme. R. Mr. Allan Ramsay. Mr. John Ratcliffe. Andrew Reid, Esq; Mr. William Richold. Mr. John Rigg. Mrs. Rigg. Mr. Christopher Roberts. Hugh Roberts, Esq; Mr. William Robertson. Francis Rock, Esq; Mr. Samuel Rossey. Mr. James Rogers. Mr. Giles Rooke. Mr. Robert Rose. Rev. William Rotherie, A. M. Thomas Rawstorn, Esq; William Russell of Stubbers, Esq; S. Anthony Earl of Shaftsbury. Dr. Thomas Seeker, Lord Bishop of Oxford. Dr. Richard Smallbroke, Lord Bishop of Litchfield and Coventry. Mr. David Salomons. Lady Salter. Rev. Dr. John Savage. Mayer Schamberg, M. D. Isaac Schamberg. M. D. Mr. Richard Sclater. Mr. Isaac Scott. Mr. Thomas Scott. Mr. John Searle. George Augustus Selwyn, Esq; Mr. Richard Shergold. The Hon. Mrs. Shirley. Mr. Richard Shirley. Mr. James Short. Mr. David Simson. John Skinner, Esq; Matthew Skinner, Esq; Stephen Skinner, Esq; Mr. Smith of Coventry. William Sotheby, Esq; George Spearman, Esq; Mr. John Spencer. Rev. Dr. Stebbing, Chancellor of Sarum. James Stephens, M. D. Mr. Edmond Stephens. Mr. John Strutt. Mr. George Stubbs. T. Richard Earl of Tilney. Dr. John Thomas Lord Bishop of Peterborough. Dr. Richard Trevor, Lord Bishop of St. David’s. Mr. Abjon. Taylor. John Temple, Esq; 20 Copies. Mrs. Temple. Mr. Evans Thomas. Mr. Harry Thompson. Thomas Tickell, Esq; 2 Copies. Mr. John Tilly. Mr. John Tinney, 2 Copies. Mr. Noah Titner. Mr. George Tollet. Mrs. Tollet. Richard Tonson, Esq; Mrs. Touchett. Mrs. Towne, 2 Copies. Miss Towne. Thomas Towers, Esq; Mr. William Turpin. V. Sir Peter Vandeput. Mrs. Vanrixton. Mr. George Udny. W. Dr. Joseph Wilcox, Lord Bishop of Rochester. Mr. Samuel Wade. Mr. John Wainwright. Mr. William Walker. Mr. James Wall. Mrs. Walter. Mr. John Ward, Rhet. Prof. in Gresham College. Richard Warner, Esq; Rev. Mr. Langhorn Warren. Mr. Peter Warren. Philip Carteret Webb, Esq; John Westbroke, Esq; John Wilkes, Esq; Rev. Dr. Willson. William Woolball, Esq; Israel Woollaston, Esq; 2 Copies. Daniel Wray, Esq; Matthew Wymondesold, Esq; Rev. Mr. John Wyatt of Felsted, Essex. Rev. Mr. Wyatt, Vicar of West Ham, Essex. James Wytched, Esq; Y. Dr. Yarborough, Principal of Brasen Nose College, Oxford. Hon. Charles Yorke, 2 Copies. Hon. Philip Yorke. Dr. Young. TRAVELS IN T U R K E Y AND BACK TO ENGLAND. [1] An Ac c o unt of a journey round the ancient Ionia, from Smyrna, thro St. George’s, Magnesia, Durguthli, Sardis, Birghée, Tyria, Ephesus, and back to Smyrna, in the year mdcxcix. April xxi. Eight of our nation having lately designed a visit to the church of Ephesus, by name, Messieurs Whalley, Dunster, Coventry, Ashe, Turner, Clotterbooke, Frye, and Chishull, we had first a general meeting, to agree upon what was requisite to the resolution we had taken; at which time Mr. Whalley kindly undertaking the care of our provisions, and the government of our intended journey, we propos’d to make a circuit of our way to Ephesus, that so we might have a larger satisfaction in the sight of those delightsome places, for which Asia Minor was always so justly celebrated. I n prosecution of this design we intended to make our first conáck at Norlícui, to which place having this morning dispatched our baggage upon mules, under the care of a janisary and two servants, we ourselves set forward about three in the afternoon, with another janisary, dragoman, servants, and other requisites. Our company completed the number of twenty three light horse. Six or seven other gentlemen of the English factory were pleased to accompany us as far as Norlícui, where arriving in less than two hours, we all found a kind and hospitable reception from Mr. Benjamin Jones and his lady. After a short repast our freinds returned back to Smyrna, and left us employed in providing for ourselves and horses. This care had now taken up the evening, when it being proposed, that morning and evening prayers should be constantly read to the company during the whole journey, we all readily embraced the motion. Hereupon we immediately put this design in execution, and then pitched upon our lodging. April xxii. This morning a quarter before five we leave Norlícui, and proceed on Magnesia road in our way to St. George’s village, expecting to see the ceremonies, which the Greek Christians there perform on the twenty third instant, which is the festival of that saint. And having ascended the top of the adjoining hill, we there make an halt for our mules, and take that opportunity of looking back, and enjoying the delightful prospect, which this place afforded us. We had then the gap of Nymphe on our left hand, and village of Palamútcui on our right, which is pleasantly seated on an ascent, under a grove of pine trees; but before us lay extended the whole plain between the hills of Tartalée[6] and Cordilíeu, being terminated with the view of the Two Brothers[7], the city, castle, and bay of Smyrna. We continue our journey over the hill, till arriving at an old burying place, we begin to descend by a paved way to a large and high bridge of stone, built over a small, but clear and purling river. From hence we pass on to the groves of Jacácui, which is a village seated on the right hand upon an ascending ground, and fronting the edge of Tartalée. Here we again halted, and drank a dish of coffee, partly to wait for our mules, and partly to entertain ourselves with a view of the plain of Nymphe, into which we had a narrow prospect between the forementioned village and the ridge of the opposite mountain. After this we ascend a tedious and craggy hill, with which tho we were now considerably fatigued, yet we had still courage enough to reject the proposal, which was there made, of baiting, and taking the advantage of a fair commodious fountain, which flows on our right hand from the top of the hill. We therefore proceed about the space of an hour in tolerable good way, till at the descent of the mountain we encounter a rugged and uneasy passage; the road being either choaked up with loose stones, or else worn into abrupt and descending steps. This obliged us to dismount, and lead our horses down the precipice; where we nevertheless received some little satisfaction, in observing the veins of red and white marble, with which each side of this troublesome way is garnished. At the foot of the hill we cross a rivulet, and quickly after repassing the same, ride from thence strait forward in a covert and narrow bottom, which in less than half an hour leads us into the plains of Magnesia. After a short repast in this place we mount our horses, turning to the left out of the road of Magnesia; and tho we were now not more than half an hour from our intended conáck, yet we ride on by mistake too much to the right hand; till, having advanced beyond the town and castle of Magnesia, we come to a Turkish village, where we were directed almost back again to St. George’s. Here we arrived about one a clock, and made it our first business to pitch our tent for the use of our servants, whilst we ourselves were received into a little house, which afforded us the convenience of one chamber, and a sophá, for lodging. After diner we took a walk about the village, and visited the low humble church, which is here permitted to the Greek Christians. It has outwardly the marks of no inconsiderable antiquity, and within it is the exact model of the primitive Greek churches; consisting first of the πρόναος or outward chapel, then the νάος or body of the church, with three passages from the one into the other, and after all a chancel separate from the nave by lattice work. We here observed no other ornaments, than the pictures of St. George, the Virgin Mary, St. John, and St. Nicholas, and another of our Savior on the roof of the church, which consists of a regular cupola. Before the altar lay the book of the Gospels, with three or four copies of divine service; some containing their ordinary Liturgy, and others adapted to peculiar months of the year. The Greeks were now flocking hither to perform their devotions before the picture of St. George; and the superstition of a woman was remarkable, who prostrated her little infant at the feet of the saint, and eagerly stroking the picture endeavoured to convey some hidden blessing to the body of the child. April xxiii. [2] [3] [4]