Tips, Tactics and Technics for Trappers Plus tales and plain old good advice for anyone who ever thought about trapping for survival, sustenance or money. Visit Buckshot's Online Catalog Buckshot, the author of the following articles and Buckshot's Modern Trapper's Guide to Xtreme Trapping for Safety, Survival, Profit, Pleasure, has been trapping for 25 years in 5 different states. He has caught minks, raccoons, opossums, skunks, red foxes, gray foxes, coyotes, bobcats, muskrats, fishers, otters, beavers, ground hogs, snapping turtles, weasels, badgers and other game animals. He has built a log cabin and lived off the land. He says "I love the woods and being a free trapper in God's great outdoors." Why is trapping important for survivalists? "The most important reason I think everyone who plans to survive should know how to trap," says Buckshot, "is that during the Great Depression the game animals were hunted down to nothing, but the trapper always fed his family." You can contact Buckshot via e-mail with questions or comments. The Best All-Around Trap G Trapping Tips and Tales by Buckshot http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/ (1 of 2) [8/31/2004 9:07:41 PM] Using the Conibear #110 G Trapping Muskrats G Catching Coons and Groundhogs with The Conibear #220 G Bagging Beaver with the Connibear #330 G Snares G Why Leghold Traps? G Wild Dog Danger G More on Dogs and On Being a Predator G Three True Tales of Dog Attacks G More True Tales of Dog Attacks G I Should Have Stayed Home G A Michigan Bear Tale G Waxing and Dyeing Traps G Human Scent and Using Lures G Getting Ready for the Season G Scouting for Fur Via Canoe - Lessons Learned G Take Your Kids Trapping G The World's Biggest Buck -- A Tall Tale G An A-to-Z dictionary of trapping terms G Playin' Possum G The World's Biggest Coyote G Survival Hunting G Survival Weapons G A Young Trapper's Tale G More Young Trapper's Tales New! G Check back next month, because more articles are in the works. Trapping Items for Sale Here's what people are saying about Buckshot, his videos and advice New! G Copyright © 1998 and 1999, Buckshot Trapping Supplies. All Rights Reserved. Home | Search | Shop Trapping Tips and Tales by Buckshot http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/ (2 of 2) [8/31/2004 9:07:41 PM] Our store has relocated The Store has Moved http://www.survival-center.com/shop/buckshop.htm [8/31/2004 9:08:01 PM] Only One Trap Asking a trapper what is the one trap he would take into a survival camp is kind of like asking a gun nut what is the only gun to take. I thought long and hard on the subject before coming to the conclusion that for someone who didn't know a lot about trapping that the conibear trap is the best. Beginners have the best success with this trap and I have some small ones I have used for over 20 years and their still catching animals. First off, I will explain what the trap does and the different sizes and their use. The conibear was developed by a Canadian fur trapper Frank Conibear. He wanted a trap that would kill the animal so that he could run more traps with only checking each set every 2 or 3 days. With a leghold trap you should check every day to be humane to the caught animals. Well, his trap took off and is now a household name in the trapper world. There are currently 6 different sizes ranging to cover all the popular fur animals but for this article we will stick with the 3 basic ones to avoid confusion. The first trap is a #110 conibear, this trap is 4 1/2 by 4 1/2 " with a single spring. This trap is very popular among muskrat trappers because they're easy to use and reliable quick kills. This trap can also be used for mink, rabbit, squirrel, and some of the bigger weasel. The traps are relatively inexpensive ranging from $50 a dozen new to $30 a dozen used. The second trap is a #220 conibear, this trap is 7 by 7" with double springs and requires a setting tool to compress the springs. This trap is popular among the raccoon trappers. Care must be used with this trap because if a dog or house-cat sticks his head in there, they will die quickly just like a raccoon. Some states have regulated this trap. If set on land they have to be in dog proof boxes or at least 4 feet off the ground. This trap has been used to catch raccoons, otters, muskrats, minks, squirrels, rabbits, and ground hogs (woodchucks). They run about $90 a dozen new and around $75 used. Four #220 will Only One Trap http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/onetrap.htm (1 of 3) [8/31/2004 9:08:03 PM] keep you in coons for a long time. The third trap is a #330 conibear, this trap is 10 x 10" square with double springs, this is the most powerful and is NO kids toy. The same setting tool that can be used for the #220 will work for the #330. THE SAME CARE MUST BE USED WITH THIS TRAP BECAUSE NO DOG WILL LIVE THROUGH AN ENCOUNTER IN THIS TRAP! What a wonderful beaver trap. I have trapped 100's of beaver with this trap. The trap was designed for beaver but can also be used for otters, raccoons, and snapping turtles. They run around $200 a dozen new and used are about $150 a dozen. I've had some for over 10 years and their still catching beaver every year. "What the heck is he talking about, I thought this article was suppose to be about one trap not three." Well, just like the one perfect gun, it all depends on where you are in the country. What animal has the highest population in your area? A great survival set-up would be 6-#110 for the smaller animals, 4-#220 for medium size animals and 2-#330 for beaver size animals. This batch of only 12 traps should keep you in meat and fur just about anywhere in America. The one trap I personally would have is the #330 because of the amount of beaver in my area. For other parts of the country I would take the #220 because of the high raccoons, ground hogs, possums, and muskrats. With the #110 traps so cheap, every one should have a couple at their camp. This is really hard trying to predict what your area has the most of. You are the best judge of that. What is the top road kill animals in your area? This is a good reliable indicator of the animal population in any given area. Just use you head. If you see 2 beaver lodges and 4 dams there are can be from 4 to 12 beaver but after you trap them out then what's left to trap? You see, it all depends on your area. I am trying to provide you, a beginner with the tools that beginners have their most success with. Preparing New Traps If you go out and buy new traps, don't go out and set them for animals, you have to first prepare the traps. If you use new traps they are all bright and shiny, you will have limited success because the trap doesn't look natural. A quick and easy way to prepare the traps is to boil them in water to remove the factory grease for about 5 minutes, pour the water off and stick them outside under some leaves or mowed grass. Leave the traps there for a week or so until a light coating of rust appears. Then bring the traps in, use a wire brush to take off the rust, lightly, just to take off the bigger spots. ( A LOT OF NEW PEOPLE CAN'T UNDERSTAND THE RUSTING PART BECAUSE IT GOES AGAINST THE GRAIN OF METAL PROTECTION.) The reason you let them rust is to prepare the metal for excepting dye, paint, or quick dip. This is a quick way to preserve the traps after the rusting, you can spray paint the trap flat black. The reason for the rust is after you catch an animal the paint or dye can wear off. You don't want a shiny metal piece to scare other animals away from the trap. The rust looks more of a natural brown and the traps will keep catching animals. Make sure after painting that you hang the traps in a tree for a couple of weeks to get rid of the paint smell. Only One Trap http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/onetrap.htm (2 of 3) [8/31/2004 9:08:03 PM] This is just some of the basic's to start. Next article we will look at the # 110 conibear trap and how to catch muskrats, rabbits, and squirrels. Until then, reply with what you would like to see. Good luck and take care. Note: Buckshot recevied a question about baiting traps. here is his answer: The conibears are design to use in trail sets, den entrance sets, and baited sets. The bait all depends on what you are trapping. #110 in a box set baited with garden veggie's, will take rabbits. Squirrels really like corn on the cob, or peanut butter. A #220 in a bucket baited with fish heads will take raccoons, possums, skunks and, once in a while, a dumb fox, or coyote. The #330 under the ice can have aspen branches wired to the trigger. Aspen branches placed beyond the trap usually works the best in open water. Back to Buckshot's home page | Back to Captain Dave's Home Page | Search | Shop Only One Trap http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/onetrap.htm (3 of 3) [8/31/2004 9:08:03 PM] The #110 Conibear The #110 conibear is a wonderful little trap. I caught my first muskrat with one back in 1975. The trap is 4 1/2" by 4 1/2" with a single spring. To set the trap you squeeze the spring down and open the jaws bringing them together. The trigger is made out of two thin pieces of wire connected to a folded piece of metal on the top jaw. There is a slot in the middle of this piece of metal where the second piece of the trigger hooks on. There are three settings and I generally used the middle one. You flip the top trigger and hook on the middle setting, now before you release pressure from the spring make sure your hand is clear. The easiest way is to set it down on the ground upright and hold your finger on the top trigger and release the pressure from your other hand. Now the trap is set. Just play around with it for a while until you get use to setting them. Take a stick about 18 inches long hold one end and with the opposite end push on the trigger. The trap may fire or it might fall over. Try it both ways holding the trap spring to keep the trap from falling over and unsupported. The reason I wanted you to do this, is so you could see first hand why the trap HAS TO BE STABILIZED. This is very, very, important on conibear style traps. I don't care what size, you have to stabilize them. What this means is the trap is designed for the animal to stick his head in. Well, the trap has to be supported or it will fall over and spring off without catching the animal. Now, you just educated that animal to be scared and trap-shy of traps and he will be much harder to capture. One way to make a great stabilizer for the #110 conibear is either buy lath boards, or if you know of someone remolding an old house and their ripping out the old lath board, so they can put up drywall, they will probably give you all the lath board for the asking. I cut mine 12-18" long (it is not critical), sharpen one end to a point, let them weather if they are new, you now have an easy-to-use stabilizer. Remember , this is for stabilizing the trap and not to be confused with a stake. The Conibear #110 Trap http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/110.htm (1 of 3) [8/31/2004 9:08:06 PM] Take the lath board and at about a 45 degree angle, push the stake into the ground between the compressed spring and the open part of the two jaws. You want a downward pressure on the trap to keep it from being knocked over. Now, try pushing the 18" long stick on the trigger. The trap should fire, closing on the stick. Remember to keep your hands back -- these little trap hurt if they whack you one. Of course, there are several ways to stabilize these traps, you can use two sticks and form a X over the top of the trap, you can weld a 6" long piece of 1/4" stock to the rivet, or if setting in boxes you can notch the box, etc. Where to set the #110 The #110 can be used three different ways: den entrance, trail set, and bait set. Den entrances for cottontail rabbits. The best way to learn how to trap, is wait until first snow and track the rabbit to it's den hole. Then place the #110 over the hole at whatever the angle of the hole is. You may have to make a small stabilizing stick on the spot. Place two 2-3" long approximately 1" diameter sticks on the bottom jaw this will keep the trapping from freezing to the ground. Take the chain off to one side, out of the way and wire it to a tree or handy branch. The next time a rabbit comes out or in the hole, he is caught. Heavy brush piles will have a beaten path in the snow where the rabbits run and hide. Pick the spot with the most tracks and find a spot that is just about the size of the trap, all narrowed down with a top stick to keep the rabbits from jumping over. Place the trap there, if you have to you can add a couple of side sticks to help narrow it down and a top stick. Set the trap upright, so if the rabbit wants to get in the brush pile his only choice is through the trap. Stabilize, freeze sticks, wire it off, it is that simple. The third way to get rabbits -- and this will work on all rabbits -- is with an old stove pipe 6" in diameter. Take a piece 12" to 24" long and cut a notch in the side for the spring to slide in, about 3" long, then bend the pipe down a little smaller, then the trap on both ends. Now, you slide the trap in making sure it fits snug, two traps, one on each end. Test to make sure there is enough room for the trigger to fire. Always test your pipe with a trap in it first. You may have to take a stick or two to close off the end opposite the spring, just make sure that the only way to get in the pipe is through the trap. This stove pipe trap will work on squirrels , muskrats, ducks, rabbits, anything that can fit in the pipe and your bait attracts. Now wire the chain off to something solid. Place near berry bushes in the woods for rabbits and game birds. Around marshes, lakes, river, streams, etc. for muskrats, ducks, etc. All you do is take bait such as corn and make a trail going in each end to a pile of corn in the middle of the pipe. Of course, remove the trap before you place the corn in!! Pheasants, grouse, quail, etc. will go in for the corn, so will coons , so make sure you wire it off to something solid or the coon will run off with the trap. A big coon will just power his head out but smaller coons will be alive and in a bad mood when you arrive. I don't think the trap would kill a pheasant, but I know it will flatten the smaller game birds. Check the trap The Conibear #110 Trap http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/110.htm (2 of 3) [8/31/2004 9:08:06 PM] once a day. Mice will steal the bait so don't get upset, just re-bait or move the trap. Now I have to place my disclaimer. You are responsible for checking your state's game laws and complying with them. In most, if not all states, game birds, rabbits, squirrels, ducks, and geese are protected from trapping. So I don't want to hear about your fines if you go out and try this. Most hunters and game wardens don't have a sense of humor when they see a pair of quails, grouse, etc. whacked in a trap. If you get hurt setting the traps that is also your risk, I have been whacked by the #330 on the hands and I will tell you in the cold water during winter it hurts bad. It didn't break the hand but it swelled up pretty good. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBLITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS. (And neither does Captain Dave.) Back to Buckshot's home page | Back to Captain Dave's Home Page | Search | Shop The Conibear #110 Trap http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/110.htm (3 of 3) [8/31/2004 9:08:06 PM] Trapping muskrats People have a problem thinking of the muskrat in a good light. Because of the rat name and the rat tail, most people can't think about eating them. Muskrats live anywhere there is water, including ditches, ponds, lakes, rivers, etc. There diet is cattail roots, sweet flag, bulrush, apples, etc. They eat good food and are delicious to eat, but I think they have one of the best furs, silky soft and smooth. In Louisiana they sell the muskrat at the meat store under the name "marsh rabbit," and when you stop and think about it they are correct. The muskrat eats good food from the wild just like a wild rabbit does. Anyways, muskrat are legal to trap and are great for beginners to start on. Most farmers with a pond are more then happy to let you trap them. If you are trapping a pond, or ditch muskrats, dig holes starting underwater angling up toward land. Walk in the water at the edge looking for their round holes, around 4" diameter. If the water is clear, they are easy to spot by looking for the pile of mud and trail leading to it. Now, look up on land. If there is a cave in, skip that hole because the muskrats have abandoned it. That is why you walk in the water, to prevent you from causing the cave in. Just set the #110 over the hole stabilizing and wired off to a stake that you pushed down in the mud (a long stick will work). Then go find the next one, set it and so on. If there are muskrat houses built out of mud and cattails about 1 to 4 feet around, these will have den entrances too. Use your boot around the edge and you should feel a slight depression leading to the hole. Run your boot up to the hole and set the trap the same way. There can be up to 4 entrances on a large den, but one or two will be the most traveled. You can tell by the deep run leading to the den. The last set to cover is the culvert set. If there is a 6 to 10" culvert pipe with water in it. Set the trap in front and narrow down the side with sticks, so the muskrat has to go through the trap to get in the pipe. I never, ever pass up a culvert set, they are the closes thing to a guaranteed catch as they come. I have narrowed down 3 feet wide culverts with a trap on each end and frequently took doubles. If the culvert connects one body of water to another, set one on each end. Make sure the trap is stabilized well because the muskrats come in to this pipe fast. This will get you started, there are numerous other sets you can make. Just play around and try whatever you think will work. Just have fun. Remember, stabilize means the trap cannot be knocked over even if the animal hits the side. You don't Trapping Muskrats http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/muskrats.htm (1 of 2) [8/31/2004 9:08:06 PM] have to make it rock solid -- just make sure light hand pressure won't knock the trap over. Let me know how you do and any problems you may have. You can e-mail me with any questions. Back to Buckshot's home page | Back to Captain Dave's Home Page | Search | Shop Trapping Muskrats http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/muskrats.htm (2 of 2) [8/31/2004 9:08:06 PM] The Conibear #220 The #220 conibear is a wonderful trap. I have talked to several beginner's who, after catching 10-12 coons in a week their first year, asked 'Why do I even used leg-holds?" This question will be answered in up coming articles. Like I said before, if you had 4 #220 conibears you would have plenty of coons to eat, especially, if you are in a high coon state like Iowa, or Nebraska. Most of the southern states also have high coon populations, and most of the northern states have good coon numbers. There are coons out west too, but not the high numbers you see elsewhere. I will state again: You as a trapper have to be responsible. This trap kills dogs and cats, so make sure you are off the beaten trail before you set. Here in Michigan, we have to have the #220 in dog-proof boxes or 4 feet off the ground. If you are trapping a farm, explain to the farmer that you plan on using #220's on the ground and if it is ok with him, then ask where to set so no dog gets caught. I trap farms that want every coon gone and the farmer is responsible. They tie their pets up, and I don't set any #220's within 1/4 of a mile from a road or building. There was a case last fall in New York that upset a bunch of people. A new trapper was setting dry 12" culverts at the ROAD'S EDGE. Someone was taking their dog for a walk and the dog stuck his head in the trap and was killed. The owner raised hell, and had a right to, because that's irresponsibility on the trapper's part and no one wants to lose a beloved pet. Please make sure you follow the 1/4 mile rule. I try my best to avoid catching pets. Enough on that. Just remember there is no letting the dog go alive in less it is a big dog. The Conibear #220 http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/220.htm (1 of 4) [8/31/2004 9:08:08 PM] Setting the #220 To set the #220, use the setting tool and compress the springs: Simply hook the tool into the eye of the spring and squeeze. G Hold the tool with one hand, and with the other flip the safety catch on. G Do the same to the other spring. G The trap is not set yet, so place the trap on the ground spread open to the springs. G Flip the two prong triggers out of the square, place your knee on the other end and push down. (This will open the trap.) G Next, make sure the safety latches are still in place and slide them back toward the spring end. G Then grab both sides of the trap, holding it set. G Set just like the #110; flip the slotted part of the trigger to the slot in between the two prongs, G Now the trap is set. If you're setting in a 5 gal. bucket to make it dog proof, this is how you do it. Cut the plastic bucket with two 7-inch slots on each side -- one for each spring. The trap will slide back into the two slots. The slots only have to be just wider then the springs. G Then cut a 6 inch round hole in the lid. G Place the trap in, leaving the safety latches on, pop the lid and you have a dog proof box. G Place the bucket in between two logs so it won't roll. Wire off to a small tree. G First, place bait in the bucket, a dab of lure on the bait, trap, lid, sticks, and to insure the bucket won't move back place against a tree. G Last thing after, everything else is done, take the safety latches off. G When you make up the buckets, test them with a long stick to insure the trap closes tight with the lid on. A friend of mine uses this set-up in barns with great results. He keeps changing the bait with the buckets until every coon is caught. The farmer loves him for it, new coons move in every year and it is an ongoing event. He had one coon that wouldn't come in for fish, or lure, or corn, so one morning he was cooking bacon saved the grease, poured in two drops of peppermint cooking oil, some peanut butter, and tried it. The coon was caught the next morning. Setting Traps on Animal Trails All animals have trails. When you find a small trail going through thick brush, you The Conibear #220 http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/220.htm (2 of 4) [8/31/2004 9:08:08 PM] will find a spot all narrowed down with brush over top. This is a perfect place for a trail set. On the farm I trap, I walk along the edge of the woods looking for coon trails. The coons drag the corn into the woods so the trail is easy to find. just follow the trail, and if you can't find a narrow spot, make one with sticks and wire. If you are in a high coon area, you can set 1 to 4 traps on one trail. If you only have 4 #220's, then find all the trails before season and narrow down 4 spots on each trail. There can be up to ten trails coming into a 40acre field. Set the traps, check them and move to the next trail every day. You can trap the cream of the crop from all the different coon families feeding in the field. In a top area you could get 2 coons a night for 10 nights that is 20 coons. With an average from $8.00 down south to $18.00 average on top northern coon. (Prices on fur vary every year so I'm quoting 1997's prices.) But even at $8.00 each, 20 coons is $160. Not bad for helping to pay for your equipment cost. Plus you have all the coons to eat. If I was trapping with only four #220's this is how I would set: Two on the trail and two bucket sets. The best almost guaranteed set up is done by conditioning the coons. Two weeks before trapping season opens, set out 10 buckets without the traps, but baited with fish heads. The idea is to get the coons used to climbing into the bucket to get a free meal. Bait once a week. Then when the season opens set your four traps. The next day, when you move the traps, move the four to the next trail with the already baited buckets. Then take the 2 buckets and move to a new trail and pre-bait, get it? Just keep rotating. If you are lucky enough to find a farm with a pond then you can trap the muskrats in the pond at the same time. One farm with 4 coon traps, 6 muskrats traps and, if your real lucky, a couple of beaver will be there so you can set your #330's, then you have set all your traps. If one farm doesn't have all this, then trap on two farms. That all there is to it. Get permission, of course, before trapping on farms. Talk to the farmer, and trap only where he wants you to. I carry a 22 rifle with me and add grouse and rabbits as I'm checking traps. Take the kids along. They love trapping and hunting and being with Dad. My one friend takes all his kids from the time they were 5 years old. His 10-year-old caught his first mink last year. Every year I take a friend and his son along the trapline with me. The kid has more fun then both of us and his Dad doesn't even trap. The younger you start the kids, the better they learn to accept the cycles of life in the wilds, before the teachers and Disney can fill their heads with Thumper and cruelty. It will be better for the children to learn this lesson now before a survival situation where they might refuse to eat the meat or wear the fur, their health and maybe their survival depends on it. Trapping Groundhogs If a farmer has groundhog problems, sometimes you can make the following deal: The Conibear #220 http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/220.htm (3 of 4) [8/31/2004 9:08:08 PM] You'll trap the groundhogs for him now if he gives you permission to trap for fur during the season. Groundhogs are easy to trap. As a friend of mine used to say, "I wasn't sure what was using the hole, so a #220 solved that mystery." Place the #220 over the groundhog hole at the angle of the hole. Stabilize the trap and take the safety off. Don't forget to wire it off. If there is nothing to wire off to, then use a stake, a sharpen stick pounded in to the ground. Show the farmer the dead ones and skin and sell the hides to fishermen who use the fur for tying flies. Another set for the #220 is the cubby set, which is used by bobcat trappers. I like making these next to beaver dams because the bobcat likes to hunt around the dams. All you do is make a small box against a tree (remember the wind) out of sticks. Cover the top with pine boughs and stabilize the #220 with sticks. Now, I'll tell you how to get the bobcats. Take a beaver tail and a head of a beaver for bait and use my beaver lure. The bobcat love to eat beaver and beaver lure makes it smell like a fresh kill, so the bobcat goes in for a free meal and gets a free neck brace instead. Works like a champ. One last thing. Make sure if you are using bait or lure that you are set up for the wind. The animal has to smell it to get caught. So the wind should come across the back of the bucket to the trail. I will talk wind, location and good equipment over and over again. Pay attention to wind so you can get paid. That's it for now. I love all and any questions, so please feel free to reply. Don't wait until fall because I'll be trapping and it might take me a while to get back to you. Back to Buckshot's home page | Back to Captain Dave's Home Page | Search | Shop The Conibear #220 http://www.survival-center.com/buckshot/220.htm (4 of 4) [8/31/2004 9:08:08 PM]