DOUGHNUTS Secrets and Recipes for the Home Baker By Mark and Michael Klebeck with Jess Thomson Photographs by Scott Pitts Text copyright © 2011 by Doughnut Corporation of America. Photographs copyright © 2011 by Scott Pitts. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in- Publication Data available. ISBN 978-1-4521-0212-2 Manufactured in China. Designed by Patrick Nistler Food styling by Charlotte Omnès The photographer wishes to thank his wife, Meghan, for her constant support and endless patience, Mark Klebeck, Michael Klebeck, E.J. Armstrong, Norm, and Tony Burlison. Photos on pages 2, 8, 12, and 140 © Mark Klebeck Bob’s Red Mill gluten-free all-purpose flour is a registered trademark of Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods Inc.; Guinness is a registered trademark of Guinness & Co.; Oregon Chai is a registered trademark of Oregon Chai, Inc. and WorldPantry. com, Inc.; Pop Rocks is a registered trademark of Zeta Especial S.A. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Chronicle Books 680 Second Street San Francisco, California 94107 www.chroniclebooks.com Michael Klebeck would like to thank: friend Brian Miller—Wide Angle TV; Tracy Dethlefs at Hullabaloo TV; Juanita Clemente; Dave and Dana Dys- God, August and June Klebeck; beautiful Georgette, art; Chris Ballew; John Richards and everyone at KEXP; Lucy, Louise, and Ulysses Klebeck; Terri and Martin the city of Lakewood, Washington; King of Hawaii; the Chacon; the entire Klebeck Family, brothers, sisters, Wexley School for Girls; Dandy Social Club. uncles, aunts, nephews, nieces, cousins, in-laws, etc.; special thanks to Norm Day, the Hardwick family, Bill T., The artists: Tina Randolph, Matt Shoudy, Russ all the Top Pot extended family, including office staff, Rasmussen, Norman Day, Todd Hardman, Christine bakers, baristas, drivers, and roasters; all the artists and Godlewski, Art Chantry, and Ed Fotheringham; Scott crafts people who helped make Top Pot so beautiful; Pitts for his photographic talents and mentoring; Amy special thanks to Russ R. and Maggie Cole for God’s Gundlach; Seattle Met Magazine; Alaska Airlines Maga- sake; Tina R.; Todd H.; Kent L.; and the Lorig crew (Russ zine; Jessica Shambora at Fortune magazine; Andy H., Joel G., Beau H., Matt C., and Todd H., again!!); Kris Rothman at CNBC; the Travel Channel; Mark DeCarlo; von Oy, the Pilkey family, Father Squier, Father Daniel Allison Dalvit at Food Network Challenge for push- Syverstad O.P.; Blessed Sacrament; the entire A.S.B. ing me to compete! Amy Clancy; Steve Wilson; Ben students, families, and staff; Saint Francis Cabrini, Saboonchian; Bret Stetka; John T. Edge; John Riordan; Lakewood, Wedgwood, and Seattle for making Top Pot Jane and Michael Stern; NPR; KUOW; Julien Perry; Lori so amazing and successful; Joel Radin and his family; Harris at SBUX—you will always be remembered for Bryan Yeck; the early coffee crews at Bauhaus, Zeit- your friendship and dedication to Top Pot from day geist, and Top Pot; the early and current investors who one; Josh Brower and Jerry Nagae for your guidance believed and still believe!! Last, but not least, Mark K., and for always watching out for us during this great Jess Thomson, and the entire Chronicle Books family! ride! Frank Burklund and all the Top Pot Doughnut bakers—present and past—you are so appreciated! To Mark Klebeck would like to thank: Gina Mainwal and Kim Yamagiwa, who led the charge My parents, August and June Klebeck; my wife Libby, early on; to our front counter staff, delivery drivers, for her endless love and support; our sons Wolfgang and vendors; Joel Radin—co-founder and friend; Bryan and Otto—that they, too, will be fortunate to grow up Yeck and the staff at Zeitgeist Coffee; Belshaw Broth- and figure out what it is that they love to do in life; ers; O.B. Williams; Visions Espresso; and the hundreds my brother Michael who I had the best time designing of GREAT suppliers. and building stores with, who inspired me, and who Special thanks to Jess Thomson for her months has more guts than anyone I have ever met; my entire of work putting this book together; Lorena Jones at Klebeck family; the Fernau family from Stevensville Chronicle Books for always checking in and pushing me “the polka capital of the world” Michigan; Bill Terhar, to make this happen; TO SEATTLE WASHINGTON USA! a great friend and leader who tirelessly motivated You made this happen and we could not have done it me and drove Top Pot to success; Alex Sharma for without you! believing in the company from day one; Tony Walker and family; Phyllis Hatfield; all our shareholders who To EVERYONE else inadvertently not mentioned— believed in us; Tom Douglas for being such a great THANK YOU! supporter, colleague, and 5th Avenue neighbor; my Content s Introduction 8 Devil’s Food Cake Doughnuts 51 Top Pot: A Brief History 10 Master Recipe: Basic Devil’s Food Cake Doughnuts 52 The Top Pot Bakery 13 Double Trouble Cake Doughnuts 54 ----- Chocolate-Orange Cake Doughnuts 56 A Doughnut History and Primer 15 Peppermint Snowdrift Cake Doughnuts 59 Types of Doughnuts 19 Maple-Iced Chocolate Doughnuts 61 A Glossary of Doughnut Ingredients 20 Chocolate Sand Castles Cake Doughnuts 64 Doughnut-Making Tools 22 Chocolate-Chili Cake Doughnuts 66 Top Pot Bakers’ Tips 24 Dulce de Leche Cake Doughnuts 68 Frying Doughnuts 25 ----- Icing and Glazing Tips 29 Raised Doughnuts 71 Toppings 30 Master Recipe: Raised Glazed Ring Doughnuts 72 The Top Pot Doughnuts You Classic Twists 75 Might Not Have Tasted 31 Bavarian Cream Bismarks 77 ----- Raspberry Bullseyes 81 Spice Cake Doughnuts 33 Maple Bars 83 Master Recipe: Basic Spice Cake Doughnuts 34 Pershings 85 Pink Feather Boa Cake Doughnuts 35 Apple Fritters 88 Triple Coconut Cake Doughnuts 38 Blackberry Fritters 91 Valley Girl Lemon Doughnuts 40 Blueberry Cake Doughnuts 43 Orange-Pistachio Cake Doughnuts 45 Spiced Chai Cake Doughnuts 48 Old-Fashioned Doughnuts 95 Icings, Glazes, and Toppings 122 Master Recipe: Sour Cream Old-Fashioned Master Recipe: Top Pot’s White Doughnut Icing 124 Doughnuts 96 Master Recipe: Top Pot’s Chocolate Pumpkin Old-Fashioned Doughnuts 99 Doughnut Icing 125 Chocolate Old-Fashioned Doughnuts 101 Simple White Icing 126 French Toast Old-Fashioned Doughnuts 102 Simple Chocolate Icing 126 ----- Caramel Icing 127 Outside the Box 104 Pink Icing 128 Top Poppa (Giant Chocolate Doughnut Cake) 106 Maple Icing 128 Doughnut Bread Pudding 109 Peanut Butter Icing 129 Whole-Wheat Raised Glazed Rings 110 Triple Orange Icing 130 Baked Raised Doughnuts 112 Master Recipe: Top Pot’s Vanilla Doughnut Glaze 131 Gluten-Free Chocolate Cake Doughnuts 115 Simplest Vanilla Glaze 132 Gluten-Free Old-Fashioned Cake Doughnuts 117 Maple Glaze 133 Powdered Sugar Minis 119 Berry Glaze 134 Lavender Glaze 135 Toppings 138 ----- Resources 140 ----- Index 142 introdu Ction We weren’t bakers or pastry chefs before we started Top Pot Doughnuts—just two brothers who liked a good business plan and the occasional Monday morning doughnut. Over the years, along with our team of bakers, we’ve developed the doughnuts Top Pot has made famous. In this book, we’ve collected all the knowledge we’ve amassed—doughnut-making tips and tricks, the best classic flavor combinations, and ideas for outside-the-box doughnuts—and translated it into recipes designed with the home cook in mind. From traditional spiced and devil’s food cake doughnuts to yeast-raised and old-fashioned ones, with variations for bars, bismarks, twists, and fritters, Top Pot Hand-Forged Doughnuts passes our recipes on. 10 Top poT: A Brief His Tor y At Top Pot, we make about 1.3 million In 2000, Michael found a great deal on some used doughnut-making equipment—a kettle fryer, doughnuts every week. In rough num- the depositor used for cake doughnuts, a proofing bers, that’s enough glazed goodness to rack, and a big stainless steel work table—think- stretch doughnuts end to end for ten ing we might someday learn to make our own. The same year, Zeitgeist moved to a new location, miles every day. But we didn’t start and we started baking our own quick breads and big. In fact, when we opened our first muffins. We hoped to add doughnuts to the list of doughnut shop on Seattle’s Capitol Hill housemade goods, but the equipment didn’t fit in the new space. We squirreled it away in the shop in 2002, we didn’t even have doughnuts. we’d just leased on Summit Avenue in Capitol Hill But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. that was intended to be Zeitgeist II, thinking we’d found a temporary solution. Top Pot started with a sign. In 1996, a few Then we hit upon the idea of opening a years after we’d opened a coffee shop called doughnut shop, making them by hand rather than Zeitgeist in Seattle’s Pioneer Square, we found a depending on the machines the large, increasingly giant neon sign from a defunct Chinese restaurant that read “TOPSPOT.” We bought it for $400 and popular doughnut shops were using. Following the stored it in our mother’s backyard in North Seattle same design philosophy we captured at Zeitgeist, for five years, where it slowly began succumbing and before that at another coffee shop called to rust and raccoons. Bauhaus, we decided to name our new place Top Spot and to front it with the rickety old neon Meanwhile, Zeitgeist boomed. Built with sign. Before becoming coffee entrepreneurs, we a midcentury German design aesthetic and a high- had been general contractors, and between us, end clientele in mind, the shop sold excellent we had years of experience in remodeling, building house-roasted coffee and fancy pastries. There S was just one problem: Each Monday, one of our cabinetry, and designing restaurant spaces. So we T nU pastry purveyors was closed, so we never had built out the cafe ourselves, pouring the terrazzo H Ug enough breakfast foods. We started passing floors and building the bookcases—now a signature O d d by a local doughnut shop before opening on trimming at Top Pot’s cafes—one shelf at a time. e Org Mondays, just to have something to fill our pastry But the day we drove the sign down Interstate 5 in d-F case, and noticed that, with astounding regularity, Michael’s 1966 Ford F-100, there was a rattle and n a T H the doughnuts were the first to go. We might have a loud clunk as the “S” fell off the rusty old sign— O P P eaten a few ourselves. and Top Pot Doughnuts was born. O T