24 JULY 2022 Smile! Andie MacDowell is living her best life Plus BASIC BEACH HOW THE WHITE ONE-PIECE WON SUMMER JUST ADD WATER THE RISE OF THE STATUS SWIMMING POOL THE POWER OF PRETTY WHY BIG BOWS ARE BIG BUSINESS The Barometer Edited by Priya Elan Fashion! Beauty! People! Things! Welcome to your weekly guide to the stuff everyone will be talking about. Do keep up Oh dear God, it’s Frasier fashion Huge lapels. Boxy shoulder pads. Shiny ties with intricate patterns on them; yes, the characters in the 1990s sitcom Frasier were TE kings of buttoned-down HAI K fashion (not to mention emotions). Now the show is being rebooted and their sense of style couldn’t be more timely: vintage Ralph Lauren and Prada pieces are in fashion again, while Niles Crane’s office look has been reimagined on the catwalk by Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Emporio Armani, with even Winona Ryder and Emma Watson following (ahem) suit. N E More psychedelic takes on UR Fras-chic were visible in this LA H season’s collections by Peter P L Do and Khaite. We’re listening. A Airbnb for the one per cent R Airbnb? Not if you’re loaded. This summer the super-rich are booking their staycations via high-end travel sites. Plum Guide lets you rent out châteaux and mansions as well as spectacular flats, such as Rome’s Trajan’s Chambers, a chic Italian apartment loved by the fashion set overlooking the Forum ruins. Meanwhile, ThirdHome, a rental exchange website where the one per cent list their second homes, includes the seven-bedroom country house Sapperton Manor Farm, Eastry Court, parts of which date from AD603, and award-winning waterside Lakes by Yoo houses (above) in the Cotswolds. But there’s a catch. In order to use ThirdHome you have to be a member. The criterion for Getty Images joi$n5in0g0?,0 Y0o0u (r“t odhwees anivr saeebrcaleog nep dov sahtloucomed iese ”t$o. 2O s.4wh m,a hpiol wlwioo ntrht) hea noad tmh leoinrc iahmtaeludfm l iinv oe af. LOUIS VUITTON ON THE COVER ANDIE MACDOWELL PHOTOGRAPH CRAIG MCDEAN STYLING JAIME KAY WAXMAN. JUMPER, £1,200, JACKET, £1,950, AND JEANS, £690, CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE EDITOR LAURA ATKINSON DEPUTY EDITOR CHARLOTTE WILLIAMSON ART DIRECTOR ANDREW BARLOW FASHION DIRECTOR KAREN DACRE BEAUTY DIRECTOR SARAH JOSSEL FEATURES EDITOR PRIYA ELAN ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR SCARLETT RUSSELL JEWELLERY DIRECTOR JESSICA DIAMOND ASSOCIATE FASHION DIRECTOR VERITY PARKER FASHION AND MERCHANDISE EDITOR FLOSSIE SAUNDERS BOOKINGS DIRECTOR AND CREATIVE PRODUCER LEILA HARTLEY ACTING BOOKINGS DIRECTOR AND CREATIVE PRODUCER JESSICA HARRISON PICTURE EDITOR CATHERINE PYKETT-COMBES ACTING PICTURE EDITOR LORI LEFTEROVA SENIOR DESIGNER ANDY TAYLOR JUNIOR FASHION EDITOR HELEN ATKIN STAFF WRITER AND EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ROISIN KELLY CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ALICE KEMP-HABIB CHIEF SUB-EDITOR SOPHIE FAVELL SENIOR SUB-EDITOR JANE MCDONALD © Times Newspapers Ltd, 2022. Published and licensed by Times Newspapers Ltd, 1 London Bridge Street, London SE1 9GF (020 7782 5000). Printed by Prinovis UK Ltd, Liverpool. Not to be sold separately The Sunday Times Style • 3 The Barometer Here come the Girls… They were the voices of a generation a few years ago, and now both Lena Dunham (left) and Issa Rae (the mastermind behind the brilliant Insecure) are back back back. Since the final season of Girls, Dunham has made her catwalk debut (for 16Arlington), got hitched, and directed the pilot episode of From top Industry and a music video for Red shirt, £185, Issy Wood. Next up: Sharp Stick Obida; mrporter. — her first feature film since Tiny com. Floral Furniture in 2010, which she has shirt, £440, once again directed, written and Dries Van Noten; starred in — is released in the US enclothing.com on Friday, and hopefully coming here soon. Meanwhile Rae’s Rap Sh!t Why you need a (below), a show about trying to make it in SSSS (statement the perilous music business that she co-produced with the Drake-endorsed rap short-sleeved shirt) duo City Girls, premiered on HBO Max on Thursday. Bring on the continuation of the The key style lesson learnt from Dunham/Rae metaverses. this year’s Sun Valley Conference — the annual gathering of media and tech execs, aka summer camp for billionaires? Work awayday dress codes no longer mean a navy shirt and comfy slacks; instead it’s all about zhuzhing up your shirt like you’re on a Milanese catwalk with zero cares in the world. The billionaire investor Warren Buffett, 91, wore a lime green shirt with a blistering lizard pattern, while the 80-year-old media mogul, and Mr Diane von Furstenberg, Barry Diller (top right) went full Dior in a stunning painterly number. These chic OAPs were absolutely on trend with an SSSS (statement short-sleeved shirt), aping an aesthetic seen on the street style set at Paris fashion week (right) and on stars such as Michael B Jordan (top left) and Chris Pine. The focus now is less on displaying your guns and more on the OMGness of your shirt. Is the West Country the new east London? The game-changing alumni of the hottest restaurants of recent years — who were also pioneers of the natural wine scene — have been leaving their natural (boom boom) habitat in east London and heading west. Deep west. First stop: Osip, a Michelin-starred farm-to-table restaurant in Bruton, Somerset, founded by Merlin Labron-Johnson (right), formerly chef-patron of Portland (which won its own Michelin star nine months after opening, when he was just 24). Follow the country roads to Devon and the sleepy Hope Cove near Salcombe, where Oli Barker, co-founder of Brawn in Bethnal Green, has opened Hope Cove House. Clare Lattin and Tom Hill of Ducksoup and the Picklery — a “fermenting kitchen and wine bar” in Dalston — recently opened Osteria Emilia in Ashburton; and finally the former Rochelle Canteen chef Ben Coombs has set up the fish restaurant Argoe in Newlyn, Cornwall. Proper jobs, the lot of them. 4 • The Sunday Times Style Heating up ▲ THE COLOUR ▲ SUMMER SIESTAS STORM Yes, you are allowed Mystery! Conspiracy! Renaissance Venice! Damian Dibben’s new thriller has “superior beach The sports bar is back, read” written and this time it’s woke all over it Say “sports bar” and you think Hooters, warm beer and gelatinous chicken wings in red plastic baskets. Well, that ▲ ‘SIBLING NOVEL’ was then and this is now. A new wave of woke sports bars is Not a follow-up, not a incoming, led by Valderrama’s (named after the Colombian sequel, not a prequel… football legend). Dreamt up by James Cochran (above,the The new way to describe a mastermind behind the acclaimed modern European book that has “something” restaurant 12:51), the Islington venue will feature his crispy to do with an existing one buttermilk chicken burgers and brews from Beavertown. — see Jennifer Egan’s “It’s a sports bar but we’re inclusive, just good drinks, great The Candy House food and an amazing atmosphere,” Cochran says. We’re in! ▲ THE DADICURE The midlife male manicure: make ‘em square and short, as seen on Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, aged 54 Cooling down ▼ FAT CANS Slim cans are in (see San Pellegrino my and Everyone’s talking Netflix, Ala HLeesinse bkaenng). about... 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Fendi First small bag in yellow, £2,150; fendi.com Photograph Rodrigo Carmuega Artists Styling Flossie Saunders uke Saint L hesi at ucc Stefania L gn: Set desi 6 • The Sunday Times Style Top, £460, jacket, £3,120, and matching trousers, £1,330, The Row. Loafer mules, £680, Proenza Schouler. 1990s earrings (throughout), £355, New York Vintage ‘I want to be where I am and look my age’ After starring in some of the most popular films of the Eighties and Nineties, Andie MacDowell stepped away from the limelight. Now she’s back, winning plaudits for her acting and embracing her sixties in style. Her secret? Ditching the hair dye, she tells Vassi Chamberlain Photographs Craig McDean Styling Jaime Kay Waxman Andie MacDowell and Hugh Grant, I am sad to report, did Hair colour aside, MacDowell, who has appeared in not become besties after starring in Four Weddings and a movies such as Sex, Lies, and Videotape, Groundhog Day and Funeral, the totemic 1994 film that made both their careers. Green Card, is having a career renaissance thanks in part to There was no beef, just the thing that happens when you have the success of Maid, the highly rated 2021 Netflix series to act as if you are madly in love with someone you only met about a recently, and traumatically, separated young mother five minutes ago, pretend-snogging them for days until the (played by her own daughter Margaret Qualley) who has to director yells, “That’s a wrap,” and then you return to normal find work cleaning people’s houses, and whose relationship life. So you’re no longer in touch, I ask, a little disappointed. with her fractious mother (played by MacDowell) is integral “Noooo,” MacDowell answers. But what about Comic to the plot. It is perhaps the best role of her career, earning Relief’s Four Weddings reunion in 2019? The actress gives me her a Golden Globe nomination for her rendition of the a weary but not unkind look and slumps on the sofa of her steely, self-interested and flinty-eyed woman, whose sunny California den, taking a sip from a jumbo-sized green maternal obligations are carried out with a weary lassitude. juice before answering. “Yes, yes, the reunion.” Silence. It is something MacDowell is not unfamiliar with, having MacDowell is amusingly prickly at first, dissecting and herself been brought up by a distant, alcoholic single challenging my questions. But rather than being off-putting, there is a charming eccentricity and directness to her. I quickly decide that she’s a bit of a hoot. Now 64, her decision to go grey last year made global news. How did that affect her? “I was relieved people weren’t cruel,” she says. “They could have been mean to me. But everybody was very loving and kind and I was relieved because I really like it. I feel more comfortable.” She was strongly advised not to do it. “People kept saying to me, ‘It’s not time,’ but I disagreed. I was kowtowing to everybody else’s beliefs, but I truly want to be where I am and look my age.” What about male attention and dating, how’s that going? “It’s better,” she says, laughing. “I might have looked younger and more acceptable to someone before, but I want to be appreciated for where I am, for my age. And the response from men has been, ‘You look beautiful.’ I think my eyes look greener and it has made them pop in a way Above MacDowell and her daughter Margaret Qualley they didn’t before.” play mother and daughter in the Netflix series Maid The Sunday Times Style • 9 mother. This is a subject she has always spoken openly person and have better relationships, because that’s really about; specifically how as a little girl she would get up in the only reason we’re here. Yeah, you know that, right?” the middle of the night to check her mother’s cigarettes I nod vigorously. “The reason we’re really here is relation- were put out. That was sweet of her, I say. “It was about ships. It’s not about success. It’s not about money. It’s not self-preservation too,” she replies. about superficial things. The only reason that we’re really Her mother suffered from depression and underwent here is to be with other people.” electric shock therapy. I mention my own experience of MacDowell wants to explain more, clarify what she went friends whose parents have also been addicts, but she cuts through. It’s rare that happens with a famous person. “Not me off. “So I’m trying to figure out what you’re asking me, being seen, not being heard, being ignored — all the things because some of the things you just said don’t ring true to that happen when you grow up with someone who has me. I mean, you don’t know me. From the outside people disappeared basically because of alcohol, there are going to may assume that they know me. What always cracks me up be effects you carry with you for the rest of your life,” she is when people think I’m like a character I play.” continues. “You know, I’m still dealing with them. I mean, I’m I take a deep breath and apologise. I didn’t mean to cause definitely a co-dependent. ” Did she get on with her mother? offence but she isn’t finished. “I mean, of course, growing “I did have a very nice relationship with her,” she says, “but I up with an alcoholic mother affected me. But I’m constantly couldn’t explain to you in one interview the issues that I have. working on myself. I have done a lot of therapy. I can’t say It would take a long time because I’m still figuring that out.” I’ve always been guided in the right way to look at myself, In an attempt to defuse the situation, I ask her about her but at least I have looked at myself, tried to be a better own daughters, Margaret and Rainey, the latter also an 10 • The Sunday Times Style