The Project Gutenberg EBook of The South American Tour, by Annie S. Peck This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: The South American Tour Author: Annie S. Peck Release Date: June 9, 2019 [EBook #59715] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR *** Produced by Donald Cummings, Adrian Mastronardi, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR NORTH PEAK OF MT. HUASCARÁN, 21,812 FT. THIS PEAK, ASCENDED BY MISS PECK, SEPTEMBER 2, 1908, IS 1,500 FEET HIGHER THAN MT. McKINLEY. THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR BY ANNIE S. PECK, M.A. Author of “A Search for the Apex of America” ILLUSTRATED CHIEFLY FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR HODDER & STOUGHTON LONDON MCMXIV Copyright, 1913, By George H. Doran Company INTRODUCTION I congratulate Miss Annie S. Peck, the publisher of this book, and those who consult or read it, upon the preparation of a work of this character. Interest in Latin America is now so rapidly growing throughout all the world, and especially in the United States, that a descriptive guide-book of this kind regarding the regions commonly visited by tourists has become an actual need; such a work by Miss Peck is a practical and timely contribution to the literature of the day. There are few persons better qualified to write a book of this character. The remarkable explorations which Miss Peck has undertaken in the most difficult sections of Latin America, and the traveling she has done in all parts of it, not only have provided her with a vast fund of useful information about the countries of South America but give especial authority to what she writes. Her book contains in compact form an amount of definite information concerning the countries considered, which should place it in the forefront of works of this character. While, of course, it is impossible for the Pan American Union, as an official organization, and myself, as its official head, to endorse in any way a particular book or accept responsibility for the statements and views it contains, it gives me real pleasure, from a personal standpoint, to express the hope that this work of Miss Peck will have a wide circulation and prove of decided help in promoting travel to and through the Latin American countries. The Pan American Union, which, as readers of this book probably know, is the office of all the American republics —the United States and its twenty sister Latin American countries—organized and maintained by them for the purpose of developing commerce, friendship, better acquaintance, and peace among them all, is doing everything possible and legitimate to persuade the traveling public of the United States and Europe to visit the Latin American countries and become familiar with their progress and development. There is no influence in the world that helps more to advance friendship, comity, and commerce among countries than travel back and forth of their representative men and women. Nearly every person who visits Latin America under the advice of the Pan American Union, upon his or her return, writes a letter expressing appreciation that this opportunity has been afforded of seeing these wonderful countries of the south. In conclusion, I would observe that if those who may become interested in Latin America through reading Miss Peck’s book desire further information about any or all of these republics, the Pan American Union will always be glad to provide them with such data as it may have for distribution. John Barrett, Director General of the Pan American Union. Washington, D.C., U.S.A., October, 21, 1913. v vi FOR EVERY ONE To all Americans both of the Northland and of the South this book with due modesty is inscribed, in the hope that by inciting to travel and acquaintance it may promote commercial intercourse, with the resulting ties of mutual benefit and respect: in the hope, too, that the slender cord now feebly entwining the various Republics may soon draw them all into more intimate relations of friendship; at last into a harmonious Sisterhood, in which neither age nor size shall confer superior rights, but mutual confidence based upon the foundations of justice shall insure perpetual peace. The opportunity is here improved to express my grateful acknowledgment of kindly assistance and attentions of diverse character, received throughout my travels from many of my own countrymen, from Englishmen invariably interested and ready to aid, and from the ever courteous and helpful Latin Americans: officials and private individuals, with members of my own sex. As a complete list of these would be too long I permit myself the mention of those only who are entitled to especial recognition, our Minister to Bolivia, 1910-1913, the Honorable Horace G. Knowles, and the Governments of Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina, without whose prompt and substantial aid this work would have been impossible. That its usefulness may be such as to convey to them a valid return is my earnest aspiration. The indulgence of critics and of tourists is sought for errors (few, I trust) and deficiencies which may be discovered. These and other faults will have crept in on account of a preparation somewhat hurried that the book might earlier be of service, and from the impossibility of securing on some points exact and adequate information, in spite of diligent investigation and careful scrutiny of facts and figures. Many items of interest and importance have been omitted lest the book should be too long. The selection of material it is hoped will be suitable to the general reader, though doubtless every one will find topics presented to which he is indifferent and others neglected which appear to him of greater consequence. Hours have been spent in searching for the best authority as to widely different figures and even as to varying accents and spelling. In the absence of other information a few statements have with some trepidation been copied from authors whose recognized blunders have made their unverified observations appear questionable. While a different statement made by some other, albeit notable writer cannot be taken as conclusive evidence of error, any just criticism or suggestion presented to the author will be gratefully received and considered with a view to incorporating it in a subsequent edition. vii viii CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I What the Tour Is—How and When to Go—What It Costs 1 II The Voyage to Panama 6 III The Isthmus—The Canal—Colon 12 IV Colon to Panama—Panama City 23 V Steamship Lines on the West Coast—Ecuador 36 VI On the Way to Callao 43 VII Salaverry, Chan Chan, Chimbote, the Huailas Valley 50 VIII Callao to Lima—History 59 IX Lima, the City of the Kings 66 X The Suburbs of Lima—The Oroya Railway—Cerro de Pasco 86 XI The Southern Railway of Peru, Arequipa 99 XII The Southern Railway—Cuzco 109 XIII Bolivia—Cuzco to La Paz 123 XIV The City of La Paz 133 XV Other Regions of Bolivia and Routes to the Sea 142 XVI Along the Chilian Coast, Arica to Valparaiso 154 XVII Valparaiso 163 XVIII Santiago 170 XIX Santiago—Continued 179 XX Southern Chile—Santiago to Buenos Aires by Sea 191 XXI Across the Andes to Mendoza 198 XXII Argentina—Across the Plains to Buenos Aires 213 XXIII Buenos Aires 222 XXIV Buenos Aires—Continued 238 XXV A Side Trip to Iguassu Falls and to Paraguay, including Important Argentine Cities 257 XXVI Uruguay 272 XXVII Brazil—Along the Coast to Santos 286 XXVIII Santos and São Paulo 295 XXIX Rio de Janeiro—Bay and City 306 XXX Rio de Janeiro—Continued 321 XXXI Rio de Janeiro—Concluded 330 XXXII Northern Brazil—Homeward 341 XXXIII South American Trade 360 Index 391 ix x ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE North Peak of Mt. Huascarán, 21,812 Feet Frontispiece Mt. Huascarán from an Altitude of 10,000 Feet 56 Llanganuco Gorge 56 Callao Harbor; receiving Secretary Root 66 Plaza de Armas, Cathedral 66 Portales and Municipal Building 70 Calle Junín, Inauguration of President Leguia 70 Paseo Colón and Exposition Palace 78 In the Museum, Exposition Palace 78 Statue of Bolívar, Plaza de la Inquisición 82 Peruvian Mummy, University of San Marcos 82 On the Oroya Railway 94 Plaza, Cerro de Pasco 96 Near the Source of the Amazon (Marañon) 96 On the Southern Railway of Peru 102 Religious Procession, El Misti at the Right 102 Cathedral, Plaza Matríz 116 Ancient Wall 116 Balsas, Lake Titicaca 128 La Paz from the Hills 128 Cathedral and Government Palace 134 Hall of Congress, Monument to Murillo 134 Street Near the Market 138 In the Cemetery of La Paz 138 Monolithic Gateway, Tiahuanaco 142 Indians at Festival, Tiahuanaco 142 Mt. Illampu, 21,750 Feet, from the Plateau, 13,000 Feet 146 Sorata Town 146 Indians Transporting Freight 150 Plaza and Government Palace, Oruro 150 Valparaiso Harbor 164 Monument to Arturo Prat, Plaza Independencia 164 Avenida Brazil, with British Monument 168 Residence, Viña del Mar 168 New Hall of Congress, Library at the Left 174 Palace of Fine Arts 180 Entrance to Parque Santa Lucia 180 Palacio de la Moneda 186 Cemetery in Rose Time 186 Tierra del Fuego 196 Entrance to Andine Tunnel, Chilian Side 196 Avenida de Mayo 224 The Capitol Plaza, Buenos Aires 230 Palermo Park 230 Jockey Club Stand, Hippodrome 236 Centennial Exposition, Rural Society 236 Botanical Garden 240 Zoological Garden, House of Zebus 240 Patio in New Hall of Justice 246 Colón Theatre 246 xi xii Tomb, Recoleta Cemetery 248 Recoleta Park 248 Mercado de Frutos and Riachuelo 250 Building of Public School Sarmiento 250 Paseo Colón, Grain Elevators in the Distance 252 Darsena Nord and Marine Shops 252 On the River Tigre 254 Legislative Building, La Plata 254 University Building, La Plata 256 Museum, La Plata 256 A Fraction of the Iguassú Falls 260 Judiciary Building, Rosario 264 Residence on an Argentine Estancia 264 Government Palace, Asunción 268 New Legislative Palace, Montevideo 276 Solis Theatre 280 Government Palace 280 Port of Santos 296 Luz Station, São Paulo 300 Municipal Theatre 300 Ypiranga Museum 302 Hotel of Immigrants, São Paulo 302 Coffee Fazenda 304 Coffee Tree 304 Avenida de Rio Branco 314 Boulevard Beira Mar from Pensão Suissa 314 National Library 322 School of Fine Arts 322 Avenida do Manque 326 Residence of the President 332 Botanical Garden 332 Corcovado from the Boulevard Beira Mar 336 Through the Clouds, from Corcovado 336 United States Embassy, Petropolis 340 Street with River 340 Praça de Frei Caetano Brandão, Pará 354 Bahia 354 ACKNOWLEDGMENT Miss Peck’s photograph of Mt. Huascarán, page 56, is used by permission of Harper & Brothers (copyright 1906), and through the courtesy of the Pan American Union eight illustrations were selected from Pan American Bulletin. xiii