Soupmaker’s The Kitchen How to Save Your Scraps, Prepare a Stock, and Craft the Perfect Pot of Soup AlizA green with Photography by Steve Legato 001-160_30083.indd 1 3/15/13 8:53 PM 001-160_30083.indd 1 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/15/13 10:16 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::11 Contents © 2013 by Quarry Books Text © 2013 Aliza Green Introduction ....................................................................... 4 First published in the United States of America in 2013 by Quarry Books, a member of Chapter 1: Quayside Publishing Group Stocks: The Foundation 100 Cummings Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Suite 406-L Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101 Chapter 2 Telephone: (978) 282-9590 Clear Broth–Based Soups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Fax: (978) 283-2742 www.quarrybooks.com www.quarrySPOON.com Chapter 3 Fish and Seafood Soup/Stews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and Chapter 4 prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, Potages, Pure´es, and Creamy Bisques or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publica- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 tion. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing Chapter 5 information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. Panades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Chapter 6 ISBN: 978-1-59253-844-7 Bean Soups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Digital edition published in 2013 Chapter 7 eISBN: 978-1-61058-775-4 Hearty Soups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available Chapter 8 Chowders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Design: Sporto Photography: Steve Legato, stevelegato.com Chapter 9 Chilled Soups Printed in China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 Appendix of Additional Techniques ...............................................144 Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Acknowledgments ...............................................................155 About the Author ................................................................156 About the Photographer .........................................................156 Index ............................................................................157 22 TThhee SSoouuppMMaakkeerr’’ss KKiittcchheenn 001-160_30083.indd 2 3/15/13 8:53 PM 001-160_30083.indd 3 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 2 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM 001-160_30083.indd 3 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/15/13 10:16 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::22 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::33 Introduction form the basis for a hearty one-dish meal with some crusty bread. Half the fun of soupmaking is in the prep—the Food processor To shred vegetables and to make with grater/ satisfaction of taking simple ingredients, perhaps root veg- puréed soups shredder plates etables from the farmers’ market or soaked dried legumes, and transforming them into a steaming pot of fragrant Heavy-bottomed Soup, beautiful Soup, is the most basic of cooked foods, the universal cure-all, the soup. Many soups, especially those made from beans, have soup pot (stainless For even cooking and less tendency best way to use small amounts of food that might otherwise be discarded, and is a dish better texture the second time around. steel or enameled to burn cast iron) that can always be stretched to feed one more. We use leftovers and trimmings to make stocks, which become the foundation of the next soup, which provides Ice wand freezer gel packs, or ice To chill stocks and soups quickly trimmings for the next stock. But not all soups call for stock. cube trays The frugal Tuscan cook makes Acquacotta Maremmana Soupmaking is associated with ancient women’s cooking. in Europe and the New World were prepared in a cleaned (page 83) starting with water. The vegan South Indian Men primarily did the fire cooking—grilling and roasting— animal hide filled with liquid and heated with hot stones. Juicer, such as a Tomato-Tamarind Rasam (page 36) is based on the cooking Use for fruit soup and other cold soups. Champion and women did the water cooking—simmering soups and Later came cauldrons of clay, metal, or wood filled with a liquid with the broth from split yellow lentils. stews. Here, you’ll follow the circle of soup, savoring sup- hodge podge of ingredients to make a substantial one-pot pers that can be sipped while saving money, minimizing soup or stew to be sipped or sopped up with bread. Ladles A 6-ounce (170 g) ladle is a useful size. Broaden your repertoire in the world of soups and you’ll waste, and living greener by working with the natural cycle eat well while making the most of fresh ingredients with- of food from the market and the garden to the kitchen. In early medieval kitchens, the cauldron or pot-au-feu (pot Large stock pot out waste. Cook up a big pot of soup once a week to have holding at least 2 For making stock in large quantities on the fire) was never emptied—instead, soup was ladled hearty, healthy, delicious homemade fare that’s ready in gallons (8 L) The word soup, once also spelled soop, evolved from out and more food bits were added to make an “everlast- minutes. The recipes in this book make about 1 gallon sop, a word of German origin, meaning a chunk of bread ing soup” in a pot that was only cleaned out in preparation (4 L) of soup, plenty for today with leftovers for tomorrow Mandoline and/or soaked in liquid and eaten without utensils. Soup is for a fast day. In Europe during Renaissance times, most For neat, even slices and julienne— or to pack in containers for the freezer. And, what could be Japanese Benriner matchstick-cut—vegetables closely related to the word sup, so supper was originally people lived on soup and bread; only the wealthy ate better than knowing you have a stock of homemade soup cutter a simple meal that could be sipped at the end of the day. roasted meats. Northern European cultures developed ready to serve after a long day at work? French Onion Soup (page 76), which originated in its cur- fruit soups made with fresh or dried fruits, such as Chilled Masking tape, When freezing, always label what’s inside. rent form in Paris in the eighteenth century, and Zuppa Apricot Soup with Star Anise (page 134). labels, and markers Tools for the Soupmaker Pavese (page 74) are modern-day sops or panades. In Arab-influenced Spain, cold salad–soups known as Investing in basic high-quality tools and pots will make Best for grating citrus zests without any Microplane zester We can make good soup from almost any group of in- gazpacho developed in which cucumbers, green grapes soupmaking easier and more fun for a lifetime of cooking. bitter white pith gredients if we pay attention to the balance of flavor and or tomatoes, onion or garlic, olive oil, and vinegar would For paring root vegetables and other contrast of texture and color. The legend of stone soup be chopped small or mashed up with bread or nuts acting Paring knife tasks holds a lesson that from next to nothing, something good as a thickener and olive oil and vinegar for seasoning. (See Blender and/or The better the blender, the smoother can always be made. From liquid—water or broth—hot Golden Tomato Gazpacho with Smoked Paprika, page 138.) Immersion blender your soup. Get the best one you can find—you’ll be Peeler stones, a few humble vegetables such as cabbage or kale, using this tool frequently. an onion, a handful of grain, a few bits of leftover meat or Today’s convenient bouillon cubes and powdered soups A knife with an 8-inch (20 cm) blade Chef’s knife bones, and seasonings such as fresh herbs or spices, we may be traced back to fourteenth century Magyar war- is easier to control. Pyrex measuring Pint (475 ml) and quart (1 L)—useful for created an appetizing and nourishing soup. Many people riors. They boiled dried, salted beef until it was tender, cups pouring and for quick measuring have lost the art of soupmaking, relying on a can, box, and chopped and dried it into powder. Only hot water Chinois and/or or frozen package instead. Packaged soups are high in was needed to make a meal of this portable soup. By the China cap and/or To strain the stock Sieve sodium and may contain preservatives and artificial flavor- nineteenth century, travelers such as Lewis and Clark Pint (475 ml), quart; (1 L), and 2-quart; Storage containers ings—all avoided by making your own. carried highly-reduced “pocket soup” while exploring the (2 L) sizes are most useful A roll of heavy-duty cotton kitchen string American West. is used to tie together a bouquet garni, or In Biblical times, legumes (such as chickpeas, fava beans, Kitchen string sprigs of herbs, for easy removal or to tie and lentils) along with grains (such as barley and wheat) Though soup may be fixed using all manner of conve- large chunks of meat for even cooking. Ziplock freezer Be sure to seal the top carefully. formed the basis of simple, rib-sticking gruels and por- nience products, serving a simmering pot of soup made bags ridges not very different from the Greek Lentil Soup (page from scratch brings people of all ages together, creating Fish pliers or Indispensable for pulling out the pesky For scooping foods cooking in water 96) and the Turkish Red Lentil Soup (page 98). Early soups aroma and anticipation. It can act as an elegant starter or needle-nose pliers pin bones from fish Wire spider or oil 44 TThhee SSoouuppMMaakkeerr’’ss KKiittcchheenn 5 001-160_30083.indd 4 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 5 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 4 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 5 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::44 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::55 Introduction form the basis for a hearty one-dish meal with some crusty bread. Half the fun of soupmaking is in the prep—the Food processor To shred vegetables and to make with grater/ satisfaction of taking simple ingredients, perhaps root veg- puréed soups shredder plates etables from the farmers’ market or soaked dried legumes, and transforming them into a steaming pot of fragrant Heavy-bottomed Soup, beautiful Soup, is the most basic of cooked foods, the universal cure-all, the soup. Many soups, especially those made from beans, have soup pot (stainless For even cooking and less tendency best way to use small amounts of food that might otherwise be discarded, and is a dish better texture the second time around. steel or enameled to burn cast iron) that can always be stretched to feed one more. We use leftovers and trimmings to make stocks, which become the foundation of the next soup, which provides Ice wand freezer gel packs, or ice To chill stocks and soups quickly trimmings for the next stock. But not all soups call for stock. cube trays The frugal Tuscan cook makes Acquacotta Maremmana Soupmaking is associated with ancient women’s cooking. in Europe and the New World were prepared in a cleaned (page 83) starting with water. The vegan South Indian Men primarily did the fire cooking—grilling and roasting— animal hide filled with liquid and heated with hot stones. Juicer, such as a Tomato-Tamarind Rasam (page 36) is based on the cooking Use for fruit soup and other cold soups. Champion and women did the water cooking—simmering soups and Later came cauldrons of clay, metal, or wood filled with a liquid with the broth from split yellow lentils. stews. Here, you’ll follow the circle of soup, savoring sup- hodge podge of ingredients to make a substantial one-pot pers that can be sipped while saving money, minimizing soup or stew to be sipped or sopped up with bread. Ladles A 6-ounce (170 g) ladle is a useful size. Broaden your repertoire in the world of soups and you’ll waste, and living greener by working with the natural cycle eat well while making the most of fresh ingredients with- of food from the market and the garden to the kitchen. In early medieval kitchens, the cauldron or pot-au-feu (pot Large stock pot out waste. Cook up a big pot of soup once a week to have holding at least 2 For making stock in large quantities on the fire) was never emptied—instead, soup was ladled hearty, healthy, delicious homemade fare that’s ready in gallons (8 L) The word soup, once also spelled soop, evolved from out and more food bits were added to make an “everlast- minutes. The recipes in this book make about 1 gallon sop, a word of German origin, meaning a chunk of bread ing soup” in a pot that was only cleaned out in preparation (4 L) of soup, plenty for today with leftovers for tomorrow Mandoline and/or soaked in liquid and eaten without utensils. Soup is for a fast day. In Europe during Renaissance times, most For neat, even slices and julienne— or to pack in containers for the freezer. And, what could be Japanese Benriner matchstick-cut—vegetables closely related to the word sup, so supper was originally people lived on soup and bread; only the wealthy ate better than knowing you have a stock of homemade soup cutter a simple meal that could be sipped at the end of the day. roasted meats. Northern European cultures developed ready to serve after a long day at work? French Onion Soup (page 76), which originated in its cur- fruit soups made with fresh or dried fruits, such as Chilled Masking tape, When freezing, always label what’s inside. rent form in Paris in the eighteenth century, and Zuppa Apricot Soup with Star Anise (page 134). labels, and markers Tools for the Soupmaker Pavese (page 74) are modern-day sops or panades. In Arab-influenced Spain, cold salad–soups known as Investing in basic high-quality tools and pots will make Best for grating citrus zests without any Microplane zester We can make good soup from almost any group of in- gazpacho developed in which cucumbers, green grapes soupmaking easier and more fun for a lifetime of cooking. bitter white pith gredients if we pay attention to the balance of flavor and or tomatoes, onion or garlic, olive oil, and vinegar would For paring root vegetables and other contrast of texture and color. The legend of stone soup be chopped small or mashed up with bread or nuts acting Paring knife tasks holds a lesson that from next to nothing, something good as a thickener and olive oil and vinegar for seasoning. (See Blender and/or The better the blender, the smoother can always be made. From liquid—water or broth—hot Golden Tomato Gazpacho with Smoked Paprika, page 138.) Immersion blender your soup. Get the best one you can find—you’ll be Peeler stones, a few humble vegetables such as cabbage or kale, using this tool frequently. an onion, a handful of grain, a few bits of leftover meat or Today’s convenient bouillon cubes and powdered soups A knife with an 8-inch (20 cm) blade Chef’s knife bones, and seasonings such as fresh herbs or spices, we may be traced back to fourteenth century Magyar war- is easier to control. Pyrex measuring Pint (475 ml) and quart (1 L)—useful for created an appetizing and nourishing soup. Many people riors. They boiled dried, salted beef until it was tender, cups pouring and for quick measuring have lost the art of soupmaking, relying on a can, box, and chopped and dried it into powder. Only hot water Chinois and/or or frozen package instead. Packaged soups are high in was needed to make a meal of this portable soup. By the China cap and/or To strain the stock Sieve sodium and may contain preservatives and artificial flavor- nineteenth century, travelers such as Lewis and Clark Pint (475 ml), quart; (1 L), and 2-quart; Storage containers ings—all avoided by making your own. carried highly-reduced “pocket soup” while exploring the (2 L) sizes are most useful A roll of heavy-duty cotton kitchen string American West. is used to tie together a bouquet garni, or In Biblical times, legumes (such as chickpeas, fava beans, Kitchen string sprigs of herbs, for easy removal or to tie and lentils) along with grains (such as barley and wheat) Though soup may be fixed using all manner of conve- large chunks of meat for even cooking. Ziplock freezer Be sure to seal the top carefully. formed the basis of simple, rib-sticking gruels and por- nience products, serving a simmering pot of soup made bags ridges not very different from the Greek Lentil Soup (page from scratch brings people of all ages together, creating Fish pliers or Indispensable for pulling out the pesky For scooping foods cooking in water 96) and the Turkish Red Lentil Soup (page 98). Early soups aroma and anticipation. It can act as an elegant starter or needle-nose pliers pin bones from fish Wire spider or oil 44 TThhee SSoouuppMMaakkeerr’’ss KKiittcchheenn 5 001-160_30083.indd 4 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 5 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 4 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 5 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::44 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::55 CChhaapptteerr 11 SSttoo cc kkss :: In most good kItChens, one of the chef’s tasks is inspecting the trash cans to make sure that nothing useful is tossed out, whether the cores of sweet bell pepper, the skin of onions, the head of a fish, or the wing tips of chicken. We can TT hh ee FFoo uu nn dd aatt ii oo nn learn from the masters and get every last bit of flavor by making our own stock, one of the most satisfying tasks in the kitchen. Save That Vegetable Cooking Stockmaker’s Tips Water • Start stock using cold water, which helps extract Many of the nutrients and much of the flavor of veg- gelatinous collagen from meats that may be sealed etables is contained in their cooking water, so don’t in by hot water. throw it out. Potatoes, corn, sweet potatoes, spinach, • Bring the stock up to a boil slowly, skimming away green beans, beets, mushrooms, squash, zucchini, the fat and impurities that rise to the surface. cauliflower, leeks, and sweet bell peppers all taste • Simmer the stock very gently so that small bubbles good and will give you instant vegetable stock. The just break the surface. If it boils, it will get cloudy. water from cooking cabbage, rutabagas, or turnips • Do not add salt to stock because often stocks are will be too strong to use for delicate soups. Save small reduced. Season the soup, not the stock. amounts of liquid in a ziplock bag or a small freezer • When preparing a protein-based stock, add the container until you have enough to be useful, making meat first to the (cold) liquid and bring it to a boil. sure to date and label the package. This is best done Skim off the white, and then tan, scum that rises with organic vegetables, as conventional vegetables to the surface before adding vegetables and other may leach pesticides into the cooking water. ingredients such as herbs and spices. • For tough cuts, such as beef brisket or ham hock, simmer the protein for up to 24 hours before add- The Roasting Juices Are the ing the vegetables, which will impart all their flavor Best Part and body to the stock after 1 to 2 hours. If you’re a meat eater, you will often have trimmings • To remove the fat from a stock, strain, preferably from either raw or cooked product. Turn them into into a stainless steel bowl, which allows the stock homemade stock that is full of flavor with rich body. to cool faster. Once the fat rises to the top, remove Put that roasted chicken carcass, or the bones from it with a ladle or allow the stock to cool to room a roasted meat, and any juices that have dripped temperature, then refrigerate it, usually overnight, off into a pot, add cold water, and simmer until the or until the fat on the surface becomes solid, so that remaining meat falls off the bone. After a few hours, it can be removed easily. Every last bit of vegetable and protein contains nutrition and add aromatic vegetable and tender herb trimmings • All stocks freeze well if stored in an airtight con- flavor waiting to be savored. and continue simmering. tainer and can be kept frozen up to 3 months. 77 001-160_30083.indd 6 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 7 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 6 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/15/13 10:16 PM 001-160_30083.indd 7 3/15/13 10:16 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::66 CChhaapptteerr 11 SSttoo cc kkss :: In most good kItChens, one of the chef’s tasks is inspecting the trash cans to make sure that nothing useful is tossed out, whether the cores of sweet bell pepper, the skin of onions, the head of a fish, or the wing tips of chicken. We can TT hh ee FFoo uu nn dd aatt ii oo nn learn from the masters and get every last bit of flavor by making our own stock, one of the most satisfying tasks in the kitchen. Save That Vegetable Cooking Stockmaker’s Tips Water • Start stock using cold water, which helps extract Many of the nutrients and much of the flavor of veg- gelatinous collagen from meats that may be sealed etables is contained in their cooking water, so don’t in by hot water. throw it out. Potatoes, corn, sweet potatoes, spinach, • Bring the stock up to a boil slowly, skimming away green beans, beets, mushrooms, squash, zucchini, the fat and impurities that rise to the surface. cauliflower, leeks, and sweet bell peppers all taste • Simmer the stock very gently so that small bubbles good and will give you instant vegetable stock. The just break the surface. If it boils, it will get cloudy. water from cooking cabbage, rutabagas, or turnips • Do not add salt to stock because often stocks are will be too strong to use for delicate soups. Save small reduced. Season the soup, not the stock. amounts of liquid in a ziplock bag or a small freezer • When preparing a protein-based stock, add the container until you have enough to be useful, making meat first to the (cold) liquid and bring it to a boil. sure to date and label the package. This is best done Skim off the white, and then tan, scum that rises with organic vegetables, as conventional vegetables to the surface before adding vegetables and other may leach pesticides into the cooking water. ingredients such as herbs and spices. • For tough cuts, such as beef brisket or ham hock, simmer the protein for up to 24 hours before add- The Roasting Juices Are the ing the vegetables, which will impart all their flavor Best Part and body to the stock after 1 to 2 hours. If you’re a meat eater, you will often have trimmings • To remove the fat from a stock, strain, preferably from either raw or cooked product. Turn them into into a stainless steel bowl, which allows the stock homemade stock that is full of flavor with rich body. to cool faster. Once the fat rises to the top, remove Put that roasted chicken carcass, or the bones from it with a ladle or allow the stock to cool to room a roasted meat, and any juices that have dripped temperature, then refrigerate it, usually overnight, off into a pot, add cold water, and simmer until the or until the fat on the surface becomes solid, so that remaining meat falls off the bone. After a few hours, it can be removed easily. Every last bit of vegetable and protein contains nutrition and add aromatic vegetable and tender herb trimmings • All stocks freeze well if stored in an airtight con- flavor waiting to be savored. and continue simmering. tainer and can be kept frozen up to 3 months. 77 001-160_30083.indd 6 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 7 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 6 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/15/13 10:16 PM 001-160_30083.indd 7 3/15/13 10:16 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::66 Beef Stock Chicken Stock, Turkey Stock Beef stock is the most challenging stock to Save roaSted chicken or turkey carcasses, make because it requires a good number of chicken wing tips, backbones, and other trim- Makes 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16 Makes about 5 quarts (6 L), serves 15 to 20 meaty bones, which are usually expensive, to mings and supplement as needed with inex- ingRedients ingredientS extract enough flavor and body to make a good pensive chicken legs and thighs or backs and • 5 pounds (2.3 kg) mixed chicken parts (necks, backs, • 5 pounds (2.3 kg) beef back ribs, beef shin (on the bone) wings, and legs), preferably from grain-fed chickens, stock. Look for meaty rounds of beef shank, re- cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cross sections, or other tough necks. I like to use inexpensive turkey wings defrosted if frozen, rinsed and drained but flavorful cut of beef, such as brisket or chuck, sembling giant osso buco, sometimes on special to fortify this stock. With their high content of preferably on the bone • 1 pound (455 g) turkey wings, optional (to add extra at the meat counter. Freeze until you accumulate gelatin-producing collagen, they add body and collagen, which lends rich, slightly sticky mouthful to • 1 onion, unpeeled the stock) enough to make this rich-tasting stock. French a rich flavor. After cooling the stock, ladle it into • 3 to 4 whole cloves • 1 onion, unpeeled but with any moldy or spoiled skin onion soup made with real homemade beef stock • 2 carrots plastic 1-quart (1 L) containers (or even freezer removed and discarded is like none you’ve ever had, unless you’ve eaten • 3 bay leaves bags, sealed carefully) and freeze. Frozen stock • 2 carrots, peeled or carrot tops and tails (but not it at the old Les Halles market in Paris. • 2 to 3 leeks, white and light green parts just needs a minute or two in the microwave to peelings, which will make the stock bitter) • 1 teaspoon (2 g) coriander seeds melt enough so that it slides right out of the bag • 2 ribs celery and/or celery root trimmings • 1 teaspoon (2 g) black peppercorns into a pot, ready to boil. • 3 bay leaves 1. Place the beef in a large soup pot and cover with water. • 1 teaspoon (1.8 g) coriander seeds Bring to a boil, skimming as necessary. Stick the onion with • 1 teaspoon (2 g) fennel seeds the cloves and add to the pot. • 1 teaspoon (1.7 g) peppercorns 1. In a large stockpot, combine the chicken parts (and turkey winfs, if using) with 1 gallon (4 L) cold water. Bring • A small handful of tender herb trimmings (parsley, 2. Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and reduce heat dill, tarragon, thyme) to a boil, skimming off and discarding the white foam to a bare simmer. Leave to simmer very slowly overnight. Soupmaker’s Tip impurities that rise to the surface. Continue to simmer until 3. Strain, discarding the solids (beef bones are too hard for the foam turns light brown and skim that away as well. the disposal), cool, and then chill overnight (see Appendix, Saving Beef SCrapS: 2. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil again, page 144). The next day, remove and discard the solidified Because beef stock is generally the most expensive skimming as necessary. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer Soupmaker’s Tip white fat from the top. Freeze, if desired. stock to make, with the exception of veal or lobster and cook, partially covered, for 6 hours, or until the chicken stock, it is well worth the time and effort it takes to meat falls easily off the bones. Strain through a sieve or save, wrap, and freeze all beef trimmings—include china cap into a large, stainless steel bowl or another pot, Roasted ChiCken oR tuRkey stoCk: Bean/Chickpea Stock some fat, but cut off any large chunks. After you discarding the solids. Never discard the carcass of a roasted chicken or accumulate enough trimmings (at least 2 to 3 pounds, turkey. If you’re not ready to cook it at the time, simply 3. In hot weather, place the strained stock into a sink full or 1 to 1.5 kg), defrost the trimmings, roast at 400°F wrap in plastic and freeze it. A roasted stock (or brown of ice mixed with water and cool for about 1 hour. In cool (200°C, or gas mark 6) until deep brown, and add to stock, as opposed to white stock in French cuisine) weather, cool at room temperature. Refrigerate overnight. Whenever you cook dried Beans or other the stock pot. Supplement with purchased beef bones works best for gravies and sauces; a white stock, made The next day, remove and discard any fat from the surface. legumes, such as chickpeas and lentils, save and trimmings as needed. from uncooked bones and trimmings, works best for If desired, freeze the stock at this point. the cooking liquid, which will be full of body soups. But there is no law (at least in America) that and flavor. Use it as a base for vegetable and, says you can’t mix them. of course, bean soups. 88 TThhee SSoouuppMMaakkeerr’’ss KKiittcchheenn CChhaapptteerr 11:: SSttoocckkss:: TThhee FFoouunnddaattiioonn 99 001-160_30083.indd 8 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 9 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 8 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 9 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::88 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::99 Beef Stock Chicken Stock, Turkey Stock Beef stock is the most challenging stock to Save roaSted chicken or turkey carcasses, make because it requires a good number of chicken wing tips, backbones, and other trim- Makes 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16 Makes about 5 quarts (6 L), serves 15 to 20 meaty bones, which are usually expensive, to mings and supplement as needed with inex- ingRedients ingredientS extract enough flavor and body to make a good pensive chicken legs and thighs or backs and • 5 pounds (2.3 kg) mixed chicken parts (necks, backs, • 5 pounds (2.3 kg) beef back ribs, beef shin (on the bone) wings, and legs), preferably from grain-fed chickens, stock. Look for meaty rounds of beef shank, re- cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cross sections, or other tough necks. I like to use inexpensive turkey wings defrosted if frozen, rinsed and drained but flavorful cut of beef, such as brisket or chuck, sembling giant osso buco, sometimes on special to fortify this stock. With their high content of preferably on the bone • 1 pound (455 g) turkey wings, optional (to add extra at the meat counter. Freeze until you accumulate gelatin-producing collagen, they add body and collagen, which lends rich, slightly sticky mouthful to • 1 onion, unpeeled the stock) enough to make this rich-tasting stock. French a rich flavor. After cooling the stock, ladle it into • 3 to 4 whole cloves • 1 onion, unpeeled but with any moldy or spoiled skin onion soup made with real homemade beef stock • 2 carrots plastic 1-quart (1 L) containers (or even freezer removed and discarded is like none you’ve ever had, unless you’ve eaten • 3 bay leaves bags, sealed carefully) and freeze. Frozen stock • 2 carrots, peeled or carrot tops and tails (but not it at the old Les Halles market in Paris. • 2 to 3 leeks, white and light green parts just needs a minute or two in the microwave to peelings, which will make the stock bitter) • 1 teaspoon (2 g) coriander seeds melt enough so that it slides right out of the bag • 2 ribs celery and/or celery root trimmings • 1 teaspoon (2 g) black peppercorns into a pot, ready to boil. • 3 bay leaves 1. Place the beef in a large soup pot and cover with water. • 1 teaspoon (1.8 g) coriander seeds Bring to a boil, skimming as necessary. Stick the onion with • 1 teaspoon (2 g) fennel seeds the cloves and add to the pot. • 1 teaspoon (1.7 g) peppercorns 1. In a large stockpot, combine the chicken parts (and turkey winfs, if using) with 1 gallon (4 L) cold water. Bring • A small handful of tender herb trimmings (parsley, 2. Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and reduce heat dill, tarragon, thyme) to a boil, skimming off and discarding the white foam to a bare simmer. Leave to simmer very slowly overnight. Soupmaker’s Tip impurities that rise to the surface. Continue to simmer until 3. Strain, discarding the solids (beef bones are too hard for the foam turns light brown and skim that away as well. the disposal), cool, and then chill overnight (see Appendix, Saving Beef SCrapS: 2. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil again, page 144). The next day, remove and discard the solidified Because beef stock is generally the most expensive skimming as necessary. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer Soupmaker’s Tip white fat from the top. Freeze, if desired. stock to make, with the exception of veal or lobster and cook, partially covered, for 6 hours, or until the chicken stock, it is well worth the time and effort it takes to meat falls easily off the bones. Strain through a sieve or save, wrap, and freeze all beef trimmings—include china cap into a large, stainless steel bowl or another pot, Roasted ChiCken oR tuRkey stoCk: Bean/Chickpea Stock some fat, but cut off any large chunks. After you discarding the solids. Never discard the carcass of a roasted chicken or accumulate enough trimmings (at least 2 to 3 pounds, turkey. If you’re not ready to cook it at the time, simply 3. In hot weather, place the strained stock into a sink full or 1 to 1.5 kg), defrost the trimmings, roast at 400°F wrap in plastic and freeze it. A roasted stock (or brown of ice mixed with water and cool for about 1 hour. In cool (200°C, or gas mark 6) until deep brown, and add to stock, as opposed to white stock in French cuisine) weather, cool at room temperature. Refrigerate overnight. Whenever you cook dried Beans or other the stock pot. Supplement with purchased beef bones works best for gravies and sauces; a white stock, made The next day, remove and discard any fat from the surface. legumes, such as chickpeas and lentils, save and trimmings as needed. from uncooked bones and trimmings, works best for If desired, freeze the stock at this point. the cooking liquid, which will be full of body soups. But there is no law (at least in America) that and flavor. Use it as a base for vegetable and, says you can’t mix them. of course, bean soups. 88 TThhee SSoouuppMMaakkeerr’’ss KKiittcchheenn CChhaapptteerr 11:: SSttoocckkss:: TThhee FFoouunnddaattiioonn 99 001-160_30083.indd 8 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 9 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 8 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 9 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::88 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::99 CornCob Stock Smoked Pork or Shrimp Stock Turkey Stock thIs sWeet, golden Broth can be used to if yoU’re a shrimp lover, be sure to save add flavor to soups, risotto with corn, or any all the shells when peeling shrimp. Freeze in a Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 8 to 12 recipe calling for vegetable stock. You’ll be Use either smoked pork bones, includ- tightly sealed container or ziplock freezer bag. ingredientS surprised at how much flavor the bare cobs ing inexpensive but meaty and flavorful neck When you have accumulated at least 3 quarts • 12 corncobs kernels cut off (see Appendix, page 144) and will impart to the stock, so save and freeze reserved for another use, such as the Corn Cream Soup bones, or smoked turkey wings or legs to make (3 L), rinse under cold water and use to make corncobs anytime you cut the kernels off of with Summer Vegetables, page 58) this rich-tasting, smoky stock perfectly suited to this shrimp stock. (The shells from other crus- them. for this stock, you can also add tomato • 2 teaspoons (3.4 g) black and/or white peppercorns hearty bean soups. Look for pork neck bones in taceans such as lobster and crayfish may be trimmings and/or basil sprigs and stems, • A handful each of parsley, thyme, and/or tarragon stems markets that cater to a Southern and/or African combined with the shrimp shells.) • 4 bay leaves if desired. American clientele for the best smoky stock ever. Smoked turkey legs, neck bones, wings, or tails all work well. 1. Combine corncobs and remaining ingredients in a large Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16 soup pot. IngredIents 2. Add about 1 gallon (4 L) cold water, or enough water to • 3 quarts (3 L) shrimp shells cover the cobs by about 3 inches (7.5 cm). • 1 cup (235 ml) dry white vermouth Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 12 to 16 • 1 tablespoon (6 g) pickling spice 3. Bring to a boil, skimming as necessary. Reduce the heat IngredIents • 1 tablespoon (5 g) coriander seeds to a slow simmer and cook 1 hour or until the broth is full of • 1 tablespoon (5.8 g) fennel seeds corn flavor. • 5 pounds (2.3 kg) smoked pork bones (or smoked turkey wings and/or legs) • 4 bay leaves 4. Pick out the cobs using tongs, a cook’s fork, or slotted • 1 large unpeeled onion, cut into rough chunks • 4 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme spoon and discard. • 3 to 4 carrots, cut into rough chunks • 1 teaspoon (2 g) crushed black pepper • 3 to 4 ribs celery, cut into rough slices • 2 lemons, cut in half 5. Strain the remainder of the stock. Discard the solids in a trash bag rather than the garbage disposal. • 1 bay leaf • 2 sprigs fresh thyme 6. Pour the strained stock into smaller containers but always leave the last 1/2 cup (120 ml) or so of liquid behind and discard it, as this contains the dregs—the scum, or impurities—which sink to the bottom. In a large pot, combine the shrimp shells, 1 gallon (4 L) cold water, the vermouth, pickling spice, coriander 7. Cool and then refrigerate or divide into quart (liter) 1. Place all the ingredients into a large soup or stock pot. and fennel seeds, bay leaves, thyme, pepper, the juice or other containers and freeze until ready to use, up to Add 5 quarts (5 L) cold water—1 quart (1 L) for every pound squeezed from the lemons, and the lemon halves. Bring to 3 months. (Be sure to label and date the containers; you of bones. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to a bare a boil, skimming as necessary, and then reduce the heat know what’s in those containers now but likely won’t simmer, skimming to remove any white foam that rises to and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and cool (see Appendix, in 2 months when they’re buried in the depths of the the top. Simmer about 6 hours, or until the bones are soft page 144). You may freeze any extra stock once it reaches freezer.) enough to fall apart completely. room temperature. 2. Cool slightly and then strain, discarding the solids. Re- 4 frigerate overnight. The next day, remove and discard any solid fat congealed on the top, and then use or freeze. 1100 TThhee SSoouuppMMaakkeerr’’ss KKiittcchheenn CChhaapptteerr 11:: SSttoocckkss:: TThhee FFoouunnddaattiioonn 1111 001-160_30083.indd 10 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 11 3/15/13 8:54 PM 001-160_30083.indd 10 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/15/13 10:16 PM 001-155_C68730.indd 11 ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0033--3300008833 TTiittllee::RRPP--TThhee SSoouuppmmaakkeerrss KKiittcchheenn 3/28/13 8:20 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) (Text)((RRaayy)) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::1100 0 3 - C 6 8 7 3 0 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::1111