Copyright © 2012 by the Editors at America’s Test Kitchen All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. America’s Test Kitchen 17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data The science of good cooking : master 50 simple concepts to enjoy a lifetime of success in the kitchen/ the editors at America’s Test Kitchen and Guy Crosby ; illustrations by Michael Newhouse and John Burgoyne. p. cm. Includes index. Kindle ISBN: 978-1-936493-45-6 1. Cooking. 2. Food. I. Crosby, Guy. II. America’s Test Kitchen (Firm) TX651.S375 2012 641.3--dc23 2012012807 Hardcover: $40 US Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Distributed by America’s Test Kitchen 17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Jack Bishop SCIENCE EDITOR: Guy Crosby, PhD PROJECT EDITOR: Molly Birnbaum TEST KITCHEN EXPERIMENT EDITOR: Dan Souza DESIGN DIRECTOR: Amy Klee ART DIRECTOR: Greg Galvan ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTORS: Erica Lee, Matthew Warnick DESIGNERS: Taylor Argenzio, Sarah Horwitch Dailey COLOR ILLUSTRATIONS: Michael Newhouse BLACK-AND-WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS: John Burgoyne PHOTOGRAPHY: Daniel J. Van Ackere PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Guy Rochford SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jessica Quirk SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER: Alice Carpenter PROJECT MANAGER: Kate Hux ASSET AND WORKFLOW MANAGER: Andrew Mannone PRODUCTION AND IMAGING SPECIALIST: Lauren Pettapiece COPY EDITOR: Cheryl Redmond PROOFREADER: Barbara Wood SCIENCE PROOFREADER: Joanne Curran-Celentano, PhD INDEXER: Elizabeth Parson CONTENTS Preface By Christopher Kimball Welcome to America’s Test Kitchen Navigating This E-book Introduction The Science of Measuring The Science of Time and Temperature The Science of Heat and Cold The Science of the Senses The Science of Tools and Ingredients Recipe Table of Contents CONCEPT 1: Gentle Heat Prevents Overcooking CONCEPT 2: High Heat Develops Flavor CONCEPT 3: Resting Meat Maximizes Juiciness CONCEPT 4: Hot Food Keeps Cooking CONCEPT 5: Some Proteins Are Best Cooked Twice CONCEPT 6: Slow Heating Makes Meat Tender CONCEPT 7: Cook Tough Cuts Beyond Well-Done CONCEPT 8: Tough Cuts Like a Covered Pot CONCEPT 9: A Covered Pot Doesn’t Need Liquid CONCEPT 10: Bones Add Flavor, Fat, and Juiciness CONCEPT 11: Brining Maximizes Juiciness in Lean Meats CONCEPT 12: Salt Makes Meat Juicy and Skin Crisp CONCEPT 13: Salty Marinades Work Best CONCEPT 14: Grind Meat at Home for Tender Burgers CONCEPT 15: A Panade Keeps Ground Meat Tender CONCEPT 16: Create Layers for a Breading That Sticks CONCEPT 17: Good Frying Is All About Oil Temperature CONCEPT 18: Fat Makes Eggs Tender CONCEPT 19: Gentle Heat Guarantees Smooth Custards CONCEPT 20: Starch Keeps Eggs from Curdling CONCEPT 21: Whipped Egg Whites Need Stabilizers CONCEPT 22: Starch Helps Cheese Melt Nicely CONCEPT 23: Salting Vegetables Removes Liquid CONCEPT 24: Green Vegetables Like It Hot—Then Cold CONCEPT 25: All Potatoes Are Not Created Equal CONCEPT 26: Potato Starches Can Be Controlled CONCEPT 27: Precooking Makes Vegetables Firmer CONCEPT 28: Don’t Soak Beans—Brine ’Em CONCEPT 29: Baking Soda Makes Beans and Grains Soft CONCEPT 30: Rinsing (Not Soaking) Makes Rice Fluffy CONCEPT 31: Slicing Changes Garlic and Onion Flavor CONCEPT 32: Chile Heat Resides in Pith and Seeds CONCEPT 33: Bloom Spices to Boost Their Flavor CONCEPT 34: Not All Herbs Are for Cooking CONCEPT 35: Glutamates, Nucleotides Add Meaty Flavor CONCEPT 36: Emulsifiers Make Smooth Sauces CONCEPT 37: Speed Evaporation When Cooking Wine CONCEPT 38: More Water Makes Chewier Bread CONCEPT 39: Rest Dough to Trim Kneading Time CONCEPT 40: Time Builds Flavor in Bread CONCEPT 41: Gentle Folding Stops Tough Quick Breads CONCEPT 42: Two Leaveners Are Often Better than One CONCEPT 43: Layers of Butter Make Flaky Pastry CONCEPT 44: Vodka Makes Pie Dough Easy CONCEPT 45: Less Protein Makes Tender Cakes, Cookies CONCEPT 46: Creaming Butter Helps Cakes Rise CONCEPT 47: Reverse Cream for Delicate Cakes CONCEPT 48: Sugar Changes Texture (and Sweetness) CONCEPT 49: Sugar and Time Make Fruit Juicier CONCEPT 50: Cocoa Powder Delivers Big Flavor Equipping Your Kitchen Cookware Materials What About Nonstick Pans? Knife Basics Emergency Ingredient Substitutions Food Safety Conversions and Equivalents Further Reading Index