INSIDE THIS BOOK START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ROUGH GUIDES INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth guide to Bali and Lombok, with area highlights and full-colour maps throughout CONTEXTS History, religion, traditional music and dance, village life and traditions, plus recommended books and a useful language section We’ve fl agged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special TRUSTED TRAVEL GUIDES Since 1982, our books have helped over 35 million restaurant – throughout the Guide with the ★ symbol travellers explore the world with accurate, honest and informed travel writing. Bali & Lombok chapters B A L I S E A N POCKET ROUGH GUIDES “Best of” section, essential itineraries and a unique pull-out map featuring every sight and listing in the guide. Hip, handy and Singaraja Gilimanuk perfect for short trips and weekend breaks. 4 5 IslGainlids Bali 2 7 Ca3ndidasa Senggigi LLaobmuhbaonk Ubud Mataram 6 Denpasar Lombok Java Kuta 1 Nusa Penida Lembar Nusa Kuta Lembongan 0 40 kilometres Sumbawa 1 South Bali 4 North Bali and the central 6 Lombok DIGITAL Choose from our easy- 2 Ubud and central Bali v olcanoes 7 The Gili Islands to-use ebooks and great-value 3 East Bali 5 West Bali Snapshots to read on your tablet, phone or e-reader. ROUGHGUIDES.COM Buy all our latest ebooks and get inspired with travel features, quizzes and more. Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com This ninth edition published October 2017 Bali_Lombok_9_298042_inside_cover.indd 1 26/05/17 3:15 pm THE ROUGH GUIDE TO BALI & LOMBOK This ninth edition updated by Iain Stewart Based on original text by Lesley Reader and Lucy Ridout 001_021_Bali_Lombok_9_Intro.indd 1 26/05/17 2:54 pm 001_021_Bali_Lombok_9_Intro.indd 2 26/05/17 2:54 pm INTRODUCTION 3 Contents INTRODUCTION 4 Where to go 8 Things not to miss 12 When to go 10 Itineraries 20 BASICS 22 Getting there 23 Spas, traditional beauty treatments and yoga 38 Visas 24 Culture and etiquette 38 Getting around 25 Shopping 40 Accommodation 28 Travelling with children 42 Food and drink 29 Charities and volunteer projects 43 Festivals and events 32 Travel essentials 43 Health 33 Outdoor activities 36 THE GUIDE 52 1 South Bali 52 5 West Bali 218 2 Ubud and central Bali 108 6 Lombok 242 3 East Bali 148 7 The Gili Islands 282 4 North Bali and the central volcanoes 190 CONTEXTS 300 History 301 The impact of tourism 333 Religion 311 Books 336 Traditional music and dance 318 Language 338 Modern Balinese music 326 Glossary 344 Village life and traditions 329 SMALL PRINT & INDEX 346 OPPOSITE PURA ULUN DANU BATUR, BALI PREVIOUS PAGE SANUR, BALI 001_021_Bali_Lombok_B9_Intro.indd 3 09/06/17 3:53 pm 4 INTRODUCTION Introduction to Bali & Lombok Part of the Indonesian archipelago, Bali and Lombok boast dramatically rugged coastlines, gloriously sandy beaches and world-class surf. Both islands are small – Bali extends less than 150km at its widest point, Lombok a mere 80km – and dramatically volcanic, graced with swathes of extremely fertile land, much of it sculpted into elegantly terraced rice paddies. Culturally, however, they could hardly be more diferent. Bali is Southeast Asia’s only Hindu society, and religious observance permeates every aspect of life here; the Sasak people of Lombok, on the other hand, are Muslim, like the vast majority of Indonesians. Bali landed on the tourist map over ninety years ago and is today an incredibly popular destination, drawing everyone from backpackers to high-end travellers, divers to sun-worshippers, package groups to people seeking spiritual healing. Visitor numbers plunged after the terrorist attacks of 2002 and 2005 but they have boomed in recent years, fuelled by a huge increase in Asian tourists, particularly from China. Te island boasts stunning hotels, amazing restaurants and world-class spas but lacks the infrastructure to cope with this new infux, and trafc congestion and commercialization have afected swathes of Southern Bali. Tat said, the island’s original charm is still very much in evidence once you leave the densely populated southern strip, with evocative temples and vibrant festivals set of by the verdant landscapes of the interior. Just to the east of Bali, Lombok plays host to far fewer foreign travellers, but numbers are steadily increasing thanks to the island’s many unspoilt beaches, terrifc surf and forested mountain slopes. Blessed with such natural beauty, the island has a burgeoning reputation as a more adventurous destination than its illustrious neighbour. Until the nineteenth century, both Bali and Lombok were divided into small kingdoms, each ruled by a succession of rajas whose territories fuctuated so much ABOVE REEF, NUSA PENIDA RIGHT BALINESE FAMILY IN TRADITIONAL DRESS 001_021_Bali_Lombok_9_Intro.indd 4 26/05/17 2:54 pm INTRODUCTION 5 that, at times, parts of eastern Bali TRADITIONAL DRESS and western Lombok were joined It is customary for Balinese men and women under a single ruler. More recently, to wear traditional dress to attend temple both of the islands have endured festivals, cremations, weddings, birth rites and other important rituals; men also wear years of colonial rule under the Dutch temple dress if playing in a gamelan East Indies government, which only orchestra and occasionally for banjar ended when hard-won independence (neighbourhood) meetings too. Many women wear a vividly coloured was granted to Indonesia in 1949. bustier under the kebaya (blouse), and Te Jakarta-based government has some don famboyant hair accessories since tried hard to foster a sense of as well. For big festivals, women from the same community will all wear the national identity among its vast same-coloured kebaya to give their group array of extraordinarily diverse islands a recognizable identity. and peoples, both by implementing Men also wear a type of sarong (kamben sarung), a knee-length hip-cloth (saput) and a unifying fve-point political a formal, collared shirt (generally white but philosophy, the Pancasila, and sometimes batik) or a starched jacket-like through the mandatory introduction shirt. The distinctive headcloth (udeng) can be tied according to personal taste, but of Bahasa Indonesia, now the lingua generally with a triangular crest on top franca across the whole archipelago. (shops sell ready-tied udeng). As with the Politically, Bali is administered as sash, the udeng symbolically concentrates the mental energies and directs the a province in its own right, while thoughts heavenwards via the perky Lombok is the main island in West cockscomb at the front. Nusa Tenggara. 001_021_Bali_Lombok_9_Intro.indd 5 26/05/17 2:54 pm Gili Islands Gili Islands & Senggigi (Lombok) Lembar (Lombok) & Gili Gede 001_021_Bali_Lombok_B9_Intro.indd 6 12/06/17 12:21 pm Nusa Lembongan & Serangan Harbour (Bali) Benoa (Bali) Padang Bai (Bali) t i a S t i a r t t air tS s al t i a r t S k o b m o L r t S g n u d o m b o k A L a h T B a L v i o e a n B c h e G B l i BALI Bali Pu (laDue eMr eIsnlajanndg)an Kubutambahan Air Sanih Lombok Ponjok Batu BALI Bukti Bondalem Java BARAT Singaraja Ketapang NATIONAL PARK Pura Agung Pulaki Tejakula Lovina Gilimanuk Labuan Pemuteran Kalibukbuk Sembirenteng Lalang B A L I S E A Cekik Seririt Dencarik Danau GBuantuunrg Songan Brahmavihara Arama Munduk Buyan Danau Kintamani Danau Java Bratan Toya Bungkah Batur Danau Kubu Tamblingan Bedugul Penelokan Pupuan BGautnuuknagru Pelaga Gunung Tulamben Pura Luhur Batukaru Agung Amed Negara Culik Sanda Wongayagede Jatiluwih Besakih Jemeluk Lipah Beach Perancak Medewi Pujung Gunung Kawi Pura Kelod Tampaksiring Tirtagangga Aas Rambut Pekutatan Penebel Siwi Tegalalang Amlapura L Lianlagnggah MSaonngkeehy Petulu Bangli Tenganan Bajera Forest Ubud Sidemen Feet Metres Antosari Pejeng Balian Beach Sayan Candidasa 9000 2743 Krambitan Mengwi Teges Bedulu Semarapura e d 7000 2134 Yeh Gangga Beach Tabanan PTAauymruana n Sakah Mas BatuGainanyar BPadi ang G e 5000 1524 Pura Tanah Lot Ubung Sukawati i l i 3000 914 N Batubulan G Canggu Nusa Ped - 2000 610 Seminyak DENPASAR Lembongan Buyuak Harbour Sanur o Sampalan 1000 305 Legian Jungutbatu Toyanpakeh e Kuta Bangko 500 152 Ngurah Rai Airport HBaernboaur S (Teurartnleg aIsnla Inslda)nd PNenuisdaa Bangko Jimbaran 250 76 Tanjung Benoa 0 0 Bualu Pura Luhur Uluwatu Nusa Dua Lombok 0 20 I N D I A N O C E A N kilometres LOMBOK Anyar Obel Segenter Obel Gili Kubu I Batu Koq Bayan Kokok Putih Lawang B A L I S E A Tulamben Senaru S Weantdearfnagll Gile Gili Amed i MGeinlio TWiua Pteurpfalsl Sulat N Culik Lipah Beach Gili Trawangan Gili Air Sembalun Jemeluk Gangga Gunung Gunung Daya Lawang Tirtagangga Bali Aas B Tealnugksal Pemenang Waterfall Se(n2g5k8a8rema)ng Gunu(n2g941SDmAe)agnnaarkua Gunung LGeulonnutnegn SBGeunmubnbgaulnugnDGunudnagtrum LabuhanT rPaannsdatan Amlapura Nara Buanmangge Rinjani Pusuk (2895m) Gunung (3726m) (2330m) Kondo Labuhan Mangsit (2947m) Kayangan Senggigi Sapit Pesugulan B Setnoaknelg Joben WJautekruftall Timbanuh Swela Loabmubhoakn Waterfall Waterfall Tetebatu Ampenan Lendang Pringgasela Aik Mel Pringgabaya Sweta Pemepek Pancordau Nangka Lenek MATARAM Cakranegara Narmada Mantang Rempung Kopang Masbagik Selong Banyumulek Sumbawa Sampalan Bangko Labuhan Haji Bangko GGeidlie Pandanan Lembar Praya Batunyale Feet Metres Batujai Beleka 11000 3353 PNenuisdaa TawSuenkotong InternBasnidoanraal Mujur Ganti Keruak GTuabnujukndga lLaumar 9000 2743 Pelangan Tengah Airport Batu Sengkol Rintang 7000 2134 Rembitan Sepi 5000 1524 Keling Batu Nampur Blongas Selong Sunut Blanak Ekas 3000 914 Awang Tanjung Pengantap Mawun Kuta Awang Ringgit Gerupuk Bay 2000 610 Tampa Serewe 1000 305 I N D I A N O C E A N 500 152 0 10 0 0 kilometres l s n a B a l i S t r a i t d s Gili Islands Gili Islands & Senggigi (Lombok) Lembar (Lombok) & Gili Gede 001_021_Bali_Lombok_9_Intro.indd 7 26/05/17 2:54 pm Nusa Lembongan & Serangan Harbour (Bali) Benoa (Bali) Padang Bai (Bali) a i t S t r a i t als S trai t Lomb o k S t r a i t d u n g S t r o m b o k A L ha T B a L v i eoa n B c e h G B l i BALI Bali Pu (laDue eMr eIsnlajanndg)an Kubutambahan Air Sanih Lombok Ponjok Batu BALI Bukti Bondalem Java BARAT Singaraja Ketapang NATIONAL PARK Pura Agung Pulaki Tejakula Lovina Gilimanuk Labuan Pemuteran Kalibukbuk Sembirenteng Lalang B A L I S E A Cekik Seririt Dencarik Danau GBuantuunrg Songan Brahmavihara Arama Munduk Buyan Danau Kintamani Danau Java Bratan Toya Bungkah Batur Danau Kubu Tamblingan Bedugul Penelokan Pupuan BGautnuuknagru Pelaga Gunung Tulamben Pura Luhur Batukaru Agung Amed Negara Culik Sanda Wongayagede Jatiluwih Besakih Jemeluk Lipah Beach Perancak Medewi Pujung Gunung Kawi Pura Kelod Tampaksiring Tirtagangga Aas Rambut Pekutatan Penebel Siwi Tegalalang Amlapura Lianlagnggah MSaonngkeehy Petulu Bangli Tenganan Bajera Forest Ubud Sidemen Feet Metres Antosari Pejeng Balian Beach Sayan Candidasa 9000 2743 Krambitan Mengwi Teges Bedulu Semarapura e Tabanan Pura Mas Gianyar Padang d 7000 2134 Yeh Gangga Beach ATaymunan Sakah Batuan Bai Ge 5000 1524 Pura Tanah Lot Ubung Sukawati ili 3000 914 N Batubulan G Canggu Nusa Ped - 2000 610 Seminyak DENPASAR Lembongan Buyuk Harboaur Sanur Samopalan Jungutbatu 1000 305 Legian Toyapakeh n Kuta e Bangko 500 152 Ngurah Rai Airport HBaernboaur S (Teurartnleg aIsnla Inslda)nd PNenuisdaa Bangko Jimbaran 250 76 Tanjung Benoa 0 0 Bualu Pura Luhur Uluwatu Nusa Dua Lombok 0 20 I N D I A N O C E A N kilometres LOMBOK Anyar Obel Segenter Obel Gili Kubu I Batu Koq Bayan Kokok Putih Lawang B A L I S E A Tulamben Senaru S Weantdearfnagll Gile Gili Amed Mi Geinlio TWiua Pteurpfalsl Sulat N Culik Lipah Beach Gili Trawangan Gili Air Sembalun Jemeluk Gangga Gunung Gunung Daya Lawang Tirtagangga Bali Aas B Tealnugksal Pemenang Waterfall Se(n2g5k8a8rema)ng Gunu(n2g941SDmAe)agnnaarkua Gunung LGeulonnutnegn SBGeunmubnbgaulnugnGDunudnagtrum LabuhanT rPaannsdatan Amlapura Nara Buanmangge Rinjani Pusuk (2895m) Gunung (3726m) (2330m) Kondo Labuhan Mangsit (2947m) Kayangan Senggigi Sapit Pesugulan B Setnoaknelg Joben WJautekruftall Timbanuh Swela L Loabmubhoakn Waterfall Waterfall Tetebatu Ampenan Lendang Pringgasela Aik Mel Pringgabaya Sweta Pemepek Pancordau Nangka Lenek MATARAM Cakranegara Narmada Mantang Rempung Kopang Masbagik Selong Banyumulek Sumbawa Sampalan Bangko Labuhan Haji Bangko GGeidlie Pandanan Lembar Praya Batunyale Feet Metres Batujai Beleka 11000 3353 PNenuisdaa TawSuenkotong InternBasnidoanraal Mujur Ganti Keruak GTuabnujukndga lLaumar 9000 2743 Pelangan Tengah Airport Batu Sengkol Rintang 7000 2134 Rembitan Sepi 5000 1524 Keling Batu Nampur Blongas Selong Sunut Blanak Ekas 3000 914 Awang Tanjung Pengantap Mawun Kuta Awang Ringgit Gerupuk Bay 2000 610 Tampa Serewe 1000 305 I N D I A N O C E A N 500 152 0 10 0 0 kilometres l s n a B a l i S t r a i t d s 8 INTRODUCTION FACT FILE Where to go • Bali (almost 5800 square kilometres in Bali’s best-known beach resort, the Kuta–Legian–Seminyak size with a population strip is an 8km sweep of golden sand that draws an of over 4.4 million) and incongruous mix of holidaying Australian families, Lombok (just over 4700 square kilometres weekending Jakartans, backpackers, a loyal gay clientele and in size and with a design-conscious visitors drawn by its fashionable restaurants population around 3.4 and boutiques. Travellers seeking more relaxed alternatives million) make up two of the 34 provinces of the generally head north to the beaches around and beyond Republic of Indonesia, Canggu, across the southern peninsula to Sanur or ofshore an ethnically diverse to Nusa Lembongan; to sedate Candidasa or Amed further democracy of around east; or to the black volcanic sands of Lovina on the north 260 million people. coast. Quieter, smarter seaside options can be found at • The Balinese traditionally celebrate Jimbaran in the south and Pemuteran in the northwest. On their new year, known Lombok, the trio of white-sand Gili Islands draw the biggest as Nyepi and generally crowds; there are quieter islands of the Sekotong peninsula, falling in March/April, with a day of silence and a wide range of resort accommodation around Senggigi and meditation. By contrast, a series of extraordinarily beautiful beaches near Kuta in the the night before features south. All these resorts make comfortable bases for divers and a deafening cacophony designed to scare away snorkellers and are within easy reach of the islands’ many evil sprits. reefs. Surfers have countless swells to choose from, including • Every November/ the famously challenging Uluwatu on Bali and Desert Point December, Muslim on Lombok, as well as many more novice-friendly breaks. and Hindu communities on Lombok take part Most visitors also venture inland to experience more in the Perang Topat, traditional island life. On Bali, the once-tiny village of Ubud or Ketupat War, a has become a hugely popular cultural centre, still charming ceremonial mock-battle at Pura Lingsar featuring but undeniably commercialized, where traditional dances are copious rice- and staged every night and the streets are full of organic cafés, art egg-throwing. galleries, yoga studios and myriad purveyors of alternative • The Wallace Line therapies. Tetebatu on Lombok occupies a similarly cool that runs through the 35km-wide Lombok position in the foothills, although, like the island as a whole, Strait, which separates it lacks Bali’s artistic heritage. In general, the villages on both the two islands, was islands are far more appealing than the towns, but Bali’s long thought to mark the boundary between capital, Denpasar, the historic district capital of Semarapura, the distribution of Asian and Lombok’s Mataram conurbation are each worth a and Australasian wildlife. day-trip for their museums, markets and temples. • Both Bali and Lombok Bali’s other big draw is its proliferation of elegant are volcanic: large Hindu temples, particularly the island temple of Tanah eruptions killed thousands in the Lot, the dramatically located Uluwatu and the extensive twentieth century and Besakih complex on the slopes of Gunung Agung. Temple occasionally close the festivals, most of which are open to tourists, are also well islands’ airports. worth attending. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT TEMPLE OFFERINGS; PURA ULUN DANU BATUR, BALI; KUTA BEACH, BALI; FARMER SIFTING RICE 001_021_Bali_Lombok_9_Intro.indd 8 26/05/17 2:54 pm