THE PSYCHOLOGY OF FASHION What do our clothes say about us? How do the clothes we wear affect our moods and emotions? How does the fashion industry encourage us to aspire to look in a certain way? The Psychology of Fashion offers an insightful introduction to the exciting and dynamic world of fashion in relation to human behaviour, from how clothing can affect our cognitive processes to the way retail environments manipulate consumer behaviour. The book explores how fashion design can impact healthy body image, how psychology can inform a more sustainable perspective on the production and disposal of clothing, and why we develop certain shopping behaviours. With fashion imagery ever present in the streets, press and media, The Psychology of Fashion shows how fashion and psychology can make a positive difference to our lives. Professor Carolyn Mair is a freelance consultant specialising in the psychology of fashion. She works with educators, clothing brands and media outlets. She pioneered the Masters and Bachelors programmes on the psychology of fashion at London College of Fashion. THE PSYCHOLOGY OF EVERYTHING The Psychology of Everything is a series of books which debunk the myths and pseudo-science surrounding some of life’s biggest questions. The series explores the hidden psychological factors that drive us, from our sub-conscious desires and aversions, to the innate social instincts handed to us across the generations. Accessible, informative, and always intriguing, each book is written by an expert in the field, examining how research-based knowledge compares with popular wisdom, and illustrating the potential of psychology to enrich our understanding of humanity and modern life. Applying a psychological lens to an array of topics and contem- porary concerns – from sex to addiction to conspiracy theories – The Psychology of Everything will make you look at everything in a new way. Titles in the series: The Psychology of Grief The Psychology of Richard Gross Conspiracy Theories Jan-Willem van Prooijen The Psychology of Sex Meg-John Barker The Psychology of Addiction The Psychology of Dieting Jenny Svanberg Jane Ogden The Psychology of Fashion The Psychology of Performance Carolyn Mair Stewart T. Cotterill The Psychology of The Psychology of Trust Gardening Ken J. Rotenberg Harriet Gross The Psychology of Working Life The Psychology of Gender Toon Taris Gary W. W ood For further information about this series please visit www.thepsychologyofeverything.co.uk THE PSYCHOLOGY OF FASHION CAROLYN MAIR First published 2018 by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN and by Routledge 711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2018 Carolyn Mair The right of Carolyn Mair to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalog record for this book has been requested ISBN: 978-1-138-65866-0 (hbk) ISBN: 978-1-138-65867-7 (pbk) ISBN: 978-1-315-62066-4 (eBook) Typeset in Joanna by Apex CoVantage, LLC In loving memory of my mum, Betty. CONTENTS Acknowledgements ix 1 Introduction 1 2 Wellbeing in the fashion industry 19 3 The influence of fashion on body image and ‘beauty’ 33 4 Fashion, self and identity 55 5 Fashion consumption 75 6 Fashion and behaviour 91 7 Conclusions 111 Further reading 125 Notes 129 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, for their support while I was writing this book and for allowing me the opportunity to establish a new area for the college, the psychology of fashion. I am grateful for the lively discussions with staff and students about psychology and its relevance to their specific areas of interest in fashion and art. Special thanks are due to Becka Fleetwood-Smith MA, who graduated with an MA in psychology for fashion professionals in 2015, and Zoe Shaughnessy, who graduated with an MSc in applied psychology in fashion in 2016, for allowing me to include findings from their masters’ projects. I’m grateful to the editorial team at Routledge, especially Russell George, for their faith in this project, and their guidance and support throughout. I would also like to thank my partner, Martin, and my children, Jonathan, Louisa and Sophie; my sister, Elaine; and their families, for their encouragement and pride in my achievements, especially in completing this book.