The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Guardians of the Columbia, by John H. (John Harvey) Williams This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: The Guardians of the Columbia Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens Author: John H. (John Harvey) Williams Release Date: June 8, 2013 [eBook #42893] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA*** E-text prepared by David Garcia, Bryan Ness, Emmy, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by Internet Archive (http://archive.org) Note: Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/guardiansofcolu00willrich Cover THE MOUNTAIN I hold above a careless land The menace of the skies; Within the hollow of my hand The sleeping tempest lies. Mine are the promise of the morn, The triumph of the day; And parting sunset's beams forlorn Upon my heights delay. —Edward Sydney Tylee [4] boat on Spirit Lake with Mt St Helens behind COPYRIGHT DR. U. M. LAUMAN Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mt. St. Helens. "Night's candles are burnt out, and jocund day Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops." Shakespeare. THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA MOUNT HOOD, MOUNT ADAMS AND MOUNT ST. HELENS By JOHN H. WILLIAMS Author of "THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD'" And mountains that like giants stand To sentinel enchanted land. Scott: "The Lady of the Lake." WITH MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS INCLUDING EIGHT IN COLORS TACOMA JOHN H. WILLIAMS 1912 [5] [6] tiny man on top of huge moutain COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER Climbing the last steep slope on Mount Hood, from Cooper's Spur, with ropes anchored on summit. Copyright, 1912, by John H. Williams river busy with ships Willamette River at Portland, with ships loading wheat and lumber for foreign ports. FOREWORD In offering this second volume of a proposed series on Western mountain scenery, I am fortunate in having a subject as unhackneyed as was that of "The Mountain that Was 'God.'" The Columbia River has been described in many publications about the Northwest, but the three fine snow-peaks guarding its great canyon have received scant attention, and that mainly from periodicals of local circulation. These peaks are vitally a part of the vast Cascade-Columbia scene to which they give a climax. Hence the story [7] here told by text and picture has necessarily included the stage upon which they were built up. And since the great forests of this mountain and river district are a factor of its beauty as well as its wealth, I am glad to be able to present a brief chapter about them from the competent hand of Mr. H. D. Langille, formerly of the United States forest service. A short bibliography, with notes on transportation routes, hotels, guides and other matters of interest to travelers and students, will be found at the end. Accuracy has been my first aim. I have tried to avoid the exaggeration employed in much current writing for the supposed edification of tourists. It has seemed to me that simply and briefly to tell the truth about the fascinating Columbia country would be the best service I could render to those who love its splendid mountains and its noble river. A mass of books, government documents and scientific essays has been examined. This literature is more or less contradictory, and as I cannot hope to have avoided all errors, I shall be grateful for any correction of my text. In choosing the illustrations, I have sought to show the individuality of each peak. Mountains, like men, wear their history on their faces,—none more so than Hood's sharp and finely scarred pyramid; or Adams, with its wide, truncated dome and deeply carved slopes; or St. Helens, newest of all our extinct volcanoes—if, indeed, it be extinct,—and least marred by the ice, its cone as perfect as Fujiyama's. Each has its own wonderful story to tell of ancient and often recent vulcanism. Let me again suggest that readers who would get the full value of the more comprehensive illustrations will find a reading glass very useful. Thanks are due to many helpers. More than fifty photographers, professional and amateur, are named in the table of illustrations. Without their co-operation the book would have been impossible. I am also indebted for valued information and assistance to the librarians at the Portland and Tacoma public libraries, the officers and members of the several mountaineering clubs in Portland, and the passenger departments of the railways reaching that city; to Prof. Harry Fielding Reid, the eminent geologist of Johns Hopkins University; Fred G. Plummer, geographer of the United States forest service; Dr. George Otis Smith, director of the United States geological survey; Judge Harrington Putnam, of New York, president of the American Alpine Club; Messrs. Rodney L. Glisan, William M. Ladd, H. O. Stabler, T. H. Sherrard, Judge W. B. Gilbert, H. L. Pittock, George H. Himes, John Gill, C. E. Rusk, and others in Portland and elsewhere. The West has much besides magnificent scenery to give those who visit it. Here have been played, upon a grander stage, the closing acts in the great drama of state-building which opened three hundred years ago on the Atlantic Coast. The setting has powerfully moulded the history, and we must know one if we would understand the other. Europe, of course, offers to the American student of culture and the arts something which travel here at home cannot supply. But every influence that brings the different sections of the United States into closer touch and fuller sympathy makes for patriotism and increased national strength. This, rather than regret for the two hundred millions of dollars which our tourists spend abroad each year, is the true basis of the "See America First" movement. According to his capacity, the tourist commonly gets value for his money, whether traveling in Europe or America. But Eastern ignorance of the West is costing the country more than the drain of tourist money. This volume is presented, therefore, as a call to better appreciation of the splendor and worth of our own land. Its publication will be justified if it is found to merit in some degree the commendation given its predecessor by Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Whitman College, whose delightful book on the Columbia has been consulted and whose personal advice has been of great value throughout my work. "I wish to express the conviction," writes Prof. Lyman, "that you have done an inestimable service to all who love beauty, and who stand for those higher things among our possessions that cannot be measured in money, but which have an untold bearing upon the finer sensibilities of a nation." Tacoma, June 15, 1912. mountain in the distance [8] Mount Adams, seen from south slope of Mount St. Helens, near the summit, showing the Cascade ranges below. Note the great burn in the forest cover of the ridges. "Steamboat Mountain" is seen in the distance beyond. Elevation of camera, nearly 9,000 feet. phtotograph Looking up the Columbia at Lyle, Washington. CONTENTS I. THE RIVER. Dawn at Cloud Cap Inn—The geological dawn—Cascade-Sierra uptilt—Rise of the snow-peaks—An age of vulcanism—Origin of the great Columbia gorge—Dawn in Indian legend—The "Bridge of the Gods"—Victory of Young Chinook—Dawn of modern history—The pioneers and the state builders 15 II. THE MOUNTAINS. Portland's snowy sentinels—Ruskin on the mountains—Cascades vs. Alps—Mount Hood and its retreating glaciers—The Mazamas—A shattered crater—Mount Adams—Lava and ice caves—Mount St. Helens—The struggle of the forest on the lava beds—Adventures of the climbers—The Mazamas in peril—An heroic rescue 57 III. THE FORESTS, by HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE. Outposts at timber line—The alpine parks—Zone of the great trees—Douglas fir—From snow-line to ocean beach—Conservation and reforestation 123 NOTES 140 ILLUSTRATIONS The * indicates engravings from copyrighted photographs. See notice under the illustration. THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. Title Photographer Page *Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mount St. Helens Dr. U. M. Lauman Frontispiece *St. Peter's Dome, with the Columbia and Mount Adams G. M. Weister 20 *Nightfall on the Columbia Kiser Photo Co. 37 *Columbia River and Mount Hood, from White Salmon, Washington Kiser Photo Co. 56 *Mount Hood, with crevasses of Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 73 *Ice Castle and crevasse, Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 92 *Columbia River and Mount Adams, from Hood River, Oregon. Benj. A. Gifford 109 An Island of Color—Rhododendrons and Squaw Grass Asahel Curtis 127 ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. Title Photographer Page *Climbing to summit of Mount Hood from Cooper Spur G. M. Weister 6 Willamette River and Portland Harbor G. M. Weister 7 Mount Adams, from south slope of Mount St. Helens G. M. Weister 8 Columbia River at Lyle William R. King 9 Mount Hood, seen from the Columbia at Vancouver L. C. Henrichsen 14 Trout Lake and Mount Adams Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 15 Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia, with railway bridge C. S. Reeves 15 *View up the Columbia, opposite Astoria G. M. Weister 16 Astoria in 1813 From an old print 16 *View north from Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 17 [9] [10] Columbia Slough, near mouth of the Willamette George F. Holman 18 *Cape Horn Kiser Photo Co. 19 Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough L. C. Henrichsen 21 *Campfire of Yakima Indians at Astoria Centennial Frank Woodfield 21 Sunset at mouth of the Columbia Frank Woodfield 22 Portland, the Willamette, and Mounts Hood, Adams and St. Helens Angelus Photo Co. 22 "The Coming of the White Man" L. C. Henrichsen 23 "Sacajawea" G. M. Weister 23 Sunset on Vancouver Lake Jas. Waggener, Jr. 24 Fort Vancouver in 1852 From an old lithograph 24 *Rooster Rock G. M. Weister 25 Seining for Salmon on the lower Columbia Frank Woodfield 25 *The Columbia near Butler, looking across to Multnomah Falls Kiser Photo Co. 26 Captain Som-kin, chief of Indian police Lee Moorehouse 26 *Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter (2) Kiser Photo Co. 27 *View from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls Kiser Photo Co. 28 *The broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock Kiser Photo Co. 29 Castle Rock, seen from Mosquito Island Kiser Photo Co. 29 *The Columbia opposite Oneonta Gorge and Horsetail Falls Kiser Photo Co. 30 An Original American C. C. Hutchins 30 *View from elevation west of St. Peter's Dome Kiser Photo Co. 31 *Oneonta Gorge G. M. Weister 32 Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville H. J. Thorne 33 Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the Willamette Jas. Waggener, Jr. 33 *In the Columbia Canyon at Cascade Kiser Photo Co. 34 *The Cascades of the Columbia G. M. Weister 35 *Fishwheel below the Cascades, with Table Mountain G. M. Weister 36 *Sunrise on the Columbia, from top of Table Mountain Kiser Photo Co. 36 Looking down the Columbia below the Cascades L. J. Hicks 38 *Wind Mountain and submerged forest G. M. Weister 39 Steamboat entering Cascades Locks G. M. Weister 39 Moonlight on the Columbia, with clouds on Wind Mountain C. S. Reeves 40 *White Salmon River and its Gorge (2) Kiser Photo Co. 41 Looking down the Columbia Canyon from White Salmon, Washington S. C. Reeves 42 An Oregon Trout Stream L. C. Henrichsen 42 Looking up the Columbia from Hood River, Oregon F. C. Howell 43 *Hood River, fed by the glaciers of Mount Hood Benj. A. Gifford 43 A Late Winter Afternoon; the Columbia from White Salmon C. C. Hutchins 44 *Memaloose Island G. M. Weister 44 "Gateway to the Inland Empire;" the Columbia at Lyle Kiser Photo Co. 45 "Grant Castle" and Palisades of the Columbia below The Dalles G. M. Weister 46 *The Dalles of the Columbia, lower channel G. M. Weister 47 Cabbage Rock Lee Moorehouse 47 A True Fish Story of the Columbia Frank Woodfield 48 The Zigzag River in Winter T. Brook White 48 *The Dalles, below Celilo G. M. Weister 49 The "Witch's Head," an Indian picture rock Lee Moorehouse 50 Village of Indian tepees, Umatilla Reservation Lee Moorehouse 50 Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak Asahel Curtis 51 A Clearing in the Forest; Mount Hood from Sandy, Oregon L. C. Henrichsen 51 An Indian Madonna and Child Lee Moorehouse 52 Finished portion of Canal at Celilo Ed. Ledgerwood 52 *Sentinels of "the Wallula Gateway" G. M. Weister 53 *Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at Celilo Kiser Photo Co. 54 *Summit of Mount Hood, from west end of ridge G. M. Weister 55 North side of Mount Hood, from ridge west of Cloud Cap Inn George R. Miller 57 Winter on Mount Hood Rodney L. Glisan 57 [11] *Watching the Climbers, from Cloud Cap Inn G. M. Weister 58 Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from Cooper Spur E. D. Jorgensen 59 Snout of Eliot glacier Prof. W. D. Lyman 59 Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur F. W. Freeborn 60 Cloud Cap Inn George R. Miller 60 *Portland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood G. M. Weister 61 *Ice Cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood G. M. Weister 62 Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot glacier in Winter Rodney L. Glisan 62 *Snow-bridge over great crevasse, Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 63 *Coasting down east side of Mount Hood, above Cooper Spur. G. M. Weister 63 *Mount Hood, from hills south of The Dalles G. M. Weister 64 *Mount Hood, from Larch Mountain L. J. Hicks 65 Butterfly on summit of Mount Hood Shoji Endow 66 Portland Snow-shoe Club and Club House (2) Rodney L. Glisan 66 Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock L. J. Hicks 66 Looking across the head of Eliot glacier Shoji Endow 67 Mount Hood at night, from Cloud Cap Inn William M. Ladd 67 Climbing Mount Hood; the rope anchor (2) George R. Miller and Shoji Endow 68 North side of Mount Hood, from moraine of Coe glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 69 *Looking west on summit, with Mazama Rock below G. M. Weister 70 Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock F. W. Freeborn 70 Mount Hood, from Sandy Canyon L. J. Hicks 71 Crevasses of Coe glacier (2) Mary C. Voorhees 72 *Crevasse and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 74 Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barret Spur Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 75 Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood Prof. J. N. LeConte 75 Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of Mount Hood Elisha Coalman 76 Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for the summit A. M. Grilley 76 Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south side L. J. Hicks 77 South side of Mount Hood, from Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge L. E. Anderson 78 Crag on which above view was taken H. J. Thorne 78 Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater Rock G. M. Weister 79 Prof. Reid and party exploring Zigzag glacier Asahel Curtis 79 Mazamas near Crater Rock (2) Asahel Curtis 80 Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood E. D. Jorgensen 81 Mount Hood Lily William L. Finley 81 Mazama party exploring White River glacier (2) Asahel Curtis 82 Newton Clark glacier, seen from Cooper Spur Shoji Endow 83 Looking from Mount Jefferson to Mount Hood L. J. Hicks 83 *Shadow of Mount Hood G. M. Weister 84 Snout of Newton Clark glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 84 *Mount Hood and Hood River Benj. A. Gifford 85 Lava Flume near Trout Lake Ray M. Filloon 86 Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red Butte Eugene Bradbury 86 Ice Cave in lava bed near Trout Lake Ray M. Filloon 87 *Mount Adams, from northeast side of Mount St. Helens G. M. Weister 88 Mount Adams, from Trout Creek at Guler L. J. Hicks 89 Climbers on South Butte Ray M. Filloon 89 Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from Guler at 4 a.m. L. J. Hicks 90 Foraging in the Snow Crissie Cameron 90 *Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood G. M. Weister 91 Mazamas Climbing Mount Adams Asahel Curtis 93 Mount Adams from lake, with hotel site above Ed. Hess 93 Climbing from South Peak to Middle Peak L. J. Hicks 94 Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley Asahel Curtis 94 Mount Adams, from Snow-plow Mountain Ed. Hess 95 *Wind-whittled Ice near summit of Mount Adams S. C. Smith 95 Mazama glacier and Hellroaring Canyon (2) William R. King 96 Nearing the Summit of Mount Adams, south side Shoji Endow 97 Ice Cascade, above Klickitat glacier Ray M. Filloon 97 An Upland Park H. O. Stabler 97 Mount Adams and Klickitat glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 98 Storm on Klickitat glacier, seen from the Ridge of Wonders Prof. W. D. Lyman 99 Snow Cornice and Crevasse, head of Klickitat glacier (2) H. V. Abel and Ray M. Filloon 100 Mount Adams, from the Northeast Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 101 *Mount Adams, from Sunnyside, Washington Asahel Curtis 102 Crevasse in Lava glacier Eugene Bradbury 102 North Peak, with the Mountaineers starting for the summit W. M. Gorham 103 Snow-bridge over Killing Creek W. H. Gorham 103 Route up the Cleaver, north side of Mount Adams Eugene Bradbury 104 Looking across Adams glacier Carlyle Ellis 104 "The Mountain that was 'God'" seen from Mount Adams Asahel Curtis 105 Northwest slope of Mount Adams Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 106 Mount Adams from the southwest Prof. W. D. Lyman 107 Scenes in the Lewis River Canyon (3) Jas. Waggener, Jr. 108 *Mount Adams from Trout Lake Kiser Photo Co. 110 Scenes on Lava Bed, south of Mount St. Helens (3) Jas. Waggener, Jr. 111 Lava Flume, south of Mount St. Helens Jas. Waggener, Jr. 112 Entrance to Lava Flume Rodney L. Glisan 112 Mount St. Helens, seen from Portland L. C. Henrichsen 113 *Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie Jas. Waggener, Jr. 114 Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes Ray M. Filloon 115 Canyons of South Toutle River U. S. Forest Service 116 Lower Toutle Canyon Jas. Waggener, Jr. 116 Northeast side of Mount St. Helens Dr. U. M. Lauman 117 Mazamas on summit of Mt. St. Helens shortly before sunset Marion Randall Parsons 117 Mount St. Helens in Winter Dr. U. M. Lauman 118 Mount St. Helens, north side, from near the snow line Dr. U. M. Lauman 119 Glacier Scenes, east of the "Lizard." (2) Dr. U. M. Lauman 120 *Finest of the St. Helens glaciers G. M. Weister 121 *Road among the Douglas Firs Asahel Curtis 122 Ships loading lumber at one of Portland's mills The Timberman 123 Outposts of the Forest Shoji Endow 123 Alpine Hemlocks at the timber line Ray M. Filloon 124 Mazamas at the foot of Mount St. Helens E. S. Curtis 124 A Lowland Ravine E. S. Curtis 125 *The Noble Fir Kiser Photo Co. 125 Dense Hemlock Forest G. M. Weister 126 Mount Hood, from Ghost-tree Ridge George R. Miller 126 *A Group of Red Cedars Asahel Curtis 128 Road to Government Camp A. M. Grilley 129 Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County, Washington Jas. Waggener, Jr. 130 *Where Man is a Pigmy G. M. Weister 130 Hemlock growing on Cedar log Asahel Curtis 131 Tideland Spruce Frank Woodfield 131 Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir and Yellow Pine Jas. Waggener, Jr. 132 Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir H. D. Norton 133 *One of the Kings of Treeland Benj. A. Gifford 133 *Firs and Vine Maples Jas. Waggener, Jr. 134 Log Raft Benj. A. Gifford 134 A "Burn" on Mount Hood, overgrown with Squaw Grass Asahel Curtis 135 *A Noble Fir Benj. A. Gifford 136 Western White Pine Unknown 136 A Clatsop Forest H. D. Langille 137 Carpet of Firs J. E. Ford 137 [12] Winter in the Forest, near Mount Hood E. D. Jorgensen 138 Rangers' Pony Trail A. P. Cronk 138 Forest Fire on East Fork of Hood River William M. Ladd 139 Reforestation; three generations of young growth H. D. Langille 139 Klickitat River Canyon William R. King 144 MAPS. The Scenic Northwest 13 Mount Hood 58 Mount Adams 87 Mount St. Helens 107 map Enlarge. photograph A Gray Day on the Columbia. Telephotograph of Mount Hood from the river opposite Vancouver Barracks. [13] [14] [15] O photograph Trout Lake and Mount Adams. THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA I. THE RIVER The Columbia, viewed as one from the sea to the mountains, is like a rugged, broad-topped picturesque old oak, about six hundred miles long, and nearly a thousand miles wide, measured across the spread of its upper branches, the main limbs gnarled and swollen with lakes and lake-like expansions, while innumerable smaller lakes shine like fruit among the smaller branches.—John Muir. N a frosty morning of last July, before sunrise, I stood upon the belvedere of the delightful Cloud Cap Inn, which a public-spirited man of Portland has provided for visitors to the north side of Mount Hood; and from that superb viewpoint, six thousand feet above sea level, watched the day come up out of the delicate saffron east. Behind us lay Eliot Glacier, sloping to the summit of the kindling peak. Before us rose—an ocean! photograph Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia at Vancouver, with railway bridge in foreground. Never was a marine picture of greater stress. No watcher from the crags, none who go down to the sea in ships, ever beheld a scene more awful. Ceaselessly the mighty surges piled up against the ridge at our feet, as if to tear away the solid foundations of the mountain. Towers and castles of foam were built up, huge and white, against the sullen sky, only to hurl themselves into the gulf. Far to the north, dimly above this gray and heaving surface were seen the crests of three snow-mantled mountains, paler even than the undulating expanse from which they emerged. All between was a wild sea that rolled across sixty miles of space to assail those ghostly islands. [16] photograph COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER View up the Columbia on north side, opposite Astoria. Noon rest of the night fishermen. Much of the fishing on the lower Columbia is done at night with gill-nets from small boats. The river is here six miles wide. Yet the tossing breakers gave forth no roar. It was a spectral and pantomimic ocean. We "had sight of Proteus rising from the sea," but no Triton of the upper air blew his "wreathed horn." Cold and uncanny, all that seething ocean was silent as a windless lake under summer stars. It was a sea of clouds. drawing Astoria in 1813, showing the trading post established by John Jacob Astor. COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER Looking north from lower end of Eliot Glacier on Mount Hood, across the Cascade ranges and the Columbia River canyon, twenty-five miles away, to Mount Adams (right), Mount Rainier-Tacoma (center), and Mount St. Helens (left). These snow-peaks are respectively 60, 100, and 60 miles distant. Swiftly the dawn marched westward. The sun, breaking across the eastern ridges, sent long level beams to sprinkle the cloud-sea with silver. Its touch was magical. The billows broke and parted. The mists fled in panic. Cloud after cloud arose and was caught away into space. The tops of the Cascade ranges below came, one by one, into view. Lower and lower, with the shortening shadows, the wooded slopes were revealed in the morning light. Here and there some deep vale was still white and hidden. Scattered cloud-fleeces clung to pinnacles on the cliffs. Northward, the snow-peaks in Washington towered higher. Great banks of fog embraced their forested abutments, and surged up to [17] [18] their glaciers. But the icy summits smiled in the gladness of a new day. The reign of darkness and mist was broken. Never did sun more beautifully steep In his first splendor valley, rock or hill. Clearer and wider the picture grew. Below us, the orchards of Hood River caught the fresh breezes and laughed in the first sunshine. The day reached down into the nearer canyons, and saluted the busy, leaping brooks. Noisy waterfalls filled the glens with spray, and built rainbows from bank to bank, then hurried and tumbled on, in conceited haste, as if the ocean must run dry unless replenished by their wetness ere the sun should set again. Rippling lakes, in little mountain pockets, signaled their joy as blankets of dense vapor were folded up and quickly whisked away. photograph Columbia Slough in Winter, near the mouth of the Willamette. photograph COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. Cape Horn, tall basaltic cliffs that rise, terrace upon terrace, on the north side of the Columbia, twenty-five miles east of Portland. Lone Rock is seen in the distance. COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER color St. Peter's Dome, an 800-foot crag on the south bank of the Columbia; Mt. Adams in the distance "Uplift against the blue walls of the sky Your mighty shapes, and let the sunshine weave Its golden network in your belting woods; Smile down in rainbows from your falling floods, And on your kingly brows at morn and eve Set crowns of fire."—Whittier. photograph Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough. photograph COPYRIGHT, FRANK WOODFIELD Campfire of Yakima Indians gathered at the Astoria Centennial, 1911, to take part in "The Bridge of the Gods," a dramatization of Balch's famous story. The celebration of the one hundredth anniversary of the Astor trading post at the mouth of the Columbia was made noteworthy by a revival of Indian folk lore, in which the myth of the great tamahnawas bridge held first place. Thirty miles northeast, a ribbon of gold flashed the story of a mighty stream at The Dalles. Far beyond, even to the uplands of the Umatilla and the Snake, to the Blue Mountains of eastern Washington and Oregon, stretched the wheat fields and stock ranges of that vast "Inland Empire" which the great river watered; while westward, cut deep through a dozen folds of the Cascades, the chasm it had torn on its way to the sea was traced in the faint blue that distance paints upon evergreen hills. Out on our left, beyond the mountains, the Willamette slipped down its famous valley to join the larger river; and still farther, a hundred and fifty miles away, our glasses caught the vague gray line of the Pacific. Within these limits of vision lay a noble and historic country, the lower watershed of the Columbia. Earth has not anything to show more fair. photograph Sunset at the mouth of the Columbia. Cape Hancock on right, Point Adams on left. View from river off Astoria. photograph Enlarge Northern part of Portland, showing the Willamette River flowing through it, and indicating relative position of the three snow-peaks. Mount Hood (right) and Mount St. Helens (left) are each about fifty miles away, while Mount Adams, seen between, is twenty miles farther. [19] [20] [21] [22] [23]