E-SEWING.qxd 9/2/10 9:44 AM Page 1 $14.95 (CANADA$22.95) CRAFTS/HOBBIES THE THE Learn how to make S beautiful clothes, E gifts, and W decorations! I SEWING N ® G As you know, handmade clothes, gifts, Learn to make: and decorations have a special charm •Appliquéd tote bags that can’t be found on an assembly line. •Curtains and tablecloths B BOOK With The Everything® Sewing Book, you can •Dresses and skirts now create your own one-of-a-kind fashions, • Pillows and wall hangings keepsakes, and home accents that will be O cherished for years to come. • Shirts and vests This step-by-step guide walks you through O the basics while providing instructions for Also featuring dozens of detailed illustrations, completing various projects with a minimum tips and tricks for making alterations and of fuss. From selecting the right needle and repairs, and simple instructions for dressing K thread to choosing fabrics, reading patterns, up your old clothes, The Everything® Sewing From threading and working with a machine, The Everything® Book helps you piece together projects with a Sewing Book provides you with all you need to personal touch! the needle to basting learn this rewarding craft. the hem, all you Sandra Detrixhe is the author of The Everything® Quilting Bookand Zen and the Art of Quilting. Ms. Detrixhe has been needleworking for more than THE need to alter and create beautiful twenty years and has shown her creations at county fairs and contests. She lives in Concordia, KS. clothes, gifts, and decorations SEWING ® DETRIXHE www.everything.com BOOK Sandra Detrixhe Cover design by Barry Littmann Illustrations by Eulala Connor 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page i The Sewing Book DcaCietlmnlsohluaktoestyietaenrInhtmtwwbo i insoneebRnpiuaiseItdwcneseeat gFin’ on, tldagg nwo m ilcttvhfgdo h asthre efses aegfnotie’esaot hn. veryow c Ir m:eadtsI otfoo i tbm aetk m n atue uwaebwwoncl a nre l rtah fosa iwdehdiif,ntsevicwsi haee alnteeg, daeas y asiv lhnwidiistw oeoe nse.ahged, anhhr sr hroYr.i t ri oa tmh seowdnosi Awtufiwneeue id xhisnonyw s no peoItaguwdtyas auhhnr nuewl edkooltdait dahd e nhaunyjntwore r -osgel’sms’ytoftcat th mu seo oumtlanafh a awaunwgd.tatkatt hyei h elvriWlevm iyds.naeern ef t t.atgn iYhwast r tiyos lidotictkaegaoou hx euohttattlrur i oh ’erveoeoyhalnm eyrloss,nlrn eeg on p uia amder ½gsdo’rt ,nb-te hoo ldok ee"eadovl bt i lor abne umlllcarnop ironeytookbcno lenkgw.eufronl ntagyi ?n awInuftti s s ihhylgdml dDsieiu.dosaeelt oeelraioaHnnt genn mriwbmk’anI :to’tc ed eealt .stwe es lde hyghhistiw ek e hatetoooww evoopr idmulenme edri oitltrxitg dtrhe n,hew.wtp y oysan Bm pdenatoioslthdnueol,nsoui eset sslbtwt m lwheite .dseade edi aeeoFckselxosl ae ain.spirnrnmtsu, ’ee ’ tdt,sttwah no eblseah.ueot 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page ii The Series ® Editorial Publishing Director Gary M. Krebs Managing Editor Kate McBride Copy Chief Laura MacLaughlin Acquisitions Editor Eric M. Hall Development Editor Karen Johnson Jacot Production Editor Jamie Wielgus Production Production Director Susan Beale Production Manager Michelle Roy Kelly Series Designers Daria Perreault Colleen Cunningham Cover Design Paul Beatrice Frank Rivera Layout and Graphics Colleen Cunningham Rachael Eiben Michelle Roy Kelly John Paulhus Daria Perreault Erin Ring Cover Artist Eulala Conner Interior Illustrator Eric Andrews Visit the entire Everything®Series at www.everything.com 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page iii THE S E W I N G BOOK From threading the needle to basting the hem, all you need to alter and create beautiful clothes, gifts, and decorations Sandra Detrixhe Adams Media Avon, Massachusetts 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page iv To my first reader and darling daughter Eden Copyright ©2004, F+W Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher; exceptions are made for brief excerpts used in published reviews. An Everything® Series Book. Everything® and everything.com® are registered trademarks of F+W Publications, Inc. Published by Adams Media, an F+W Publications Company 57 Littlefield Street, Avon, MA 02322 U.S.A. www.adamsmedia.com ISBN: 1-59337-052-0 Printed in the United States of America. J I H G F E D C Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Detrixhe, Sandra. The everything sewing book / Sandra Detrixhe. p. cm. (An everything series book) ISBN 1-59337-052-0 1. Sewing. 2. Dressmaking. I. Title. II. Everything series. TT705.D48 2004 646.2--dc22 2003026251 This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information with regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold with the understanding that the pub- lisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional advice. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent pro- fessional person should be sought. —From a Declaration of Principles jointly adopted by a Committee of the American Bar Association and a Committee of Publishers and Associations Many of the designations used by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks. Where those designations appear in this book and Adams Media was aware of a trademark claim, the designations have been printed with initial capital letters. This book is available at quantity discounts for bulk purchases. For information, call 1-800-872-5627. 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page v Contents Top Ten Reasons to Learn to Sew / x Introduction / xi 1 Sewing Machines / 1 Choosing a Machine 2 • Knowing Your Machine 4 • Understanding Attach- ments 7 • The Necessary Needle 9 • Threading Your Machine 10 • Cleaning and Maintenance 11 • Using the Machine 13 2 Sewing Tools and Notions / 17 Choosing Shears and Scissors 18 • Knowing Your Needles and Pins 19 • Learning about Thread 21 • Choosing Measuring Tapes and Gauges 22 • Choosing Marking Tools 22 • Considering Pressing Tools 23 • Learning about Interfacing 24 • Understanding Trims and Bindings 24 • Understanding Elastic and Fasteners 26 3 Fabric Facts / 29 Comments on Cotton 30 • A Look at Linen 31 • A Word about Wool 32 • Studying Silks 32•Selecting Synthetics 33•Knowing Your Knits 34•Choosing Wisely 34 • Preparing Your Fabric 37 4 Basic Mending and Altering / 41 Why Bother? 42 • Mending Hems and Seams 42 • Changing Hemlines 48 • Taking In or Letting Out a Seam 52 • Mending Simple Tears 53 • Mending Holes 55 • Buttons and Buttonholes 56 5 Making Curtains / 59 Planning Your Curtains 60 • Estimating Yardage 60 • Choosing Curtain Fabrics 62 • Cutting Out Your Curtains 62 • Sewing Your Curtains 63 • Making Ruffles 65 • Making Valances and Flounces 69 • Tab Curtains 71 • Scalloped Topped Curtains 72 v 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page vi THE EVERYTHING SEWING BOOK 6 Tablecloths / 75 Measuring and Shopping 76 • Piecing Larger Cloths 76 • Cutting an Oval Cloth 77• Cutting a Circle 78• Stitching the Hems 78 • Reversible Tablecloths 83 • Decorating Ideas 84 7 Pillow Possibilities / 89 Learning the Basics 90 • Adding Ruffles and Piping 92 • Making an Appliqué Top 94 • Making a Handkerchief Top 95 • Making a Quilt-Block Top 97 • Making a Woven-Ribbon Top 100 • Making Chair Cushions 101 8 More Stuffed Fun / 105 Fashioning a Fabric Wreath 106 • Making Gingerbread Dolls 108 • Making a Jingle Kitty 113 • Trying a Turtle Shape 113 • Stitching Block and Box Shapes 115 • Making a Child’s Ball 118 9 Three-Piece Crib Set / 121 Taking the Measurements 122 • Buying Special Supplies 123 • Making Fitted Corners 125 • Encasing the Elastic 127 • Making a Comforter 127 • Cutting and Stitching the Bumper Pads 129 • Adding Ties 130 • Finishing 132 10 Appliquéd Tote Bag / 133 Designing the Bag for Your Needs 134 • Fabric Shopping 136 • Making Patterns for Appliqué 137 • Cutting to Order 137 • Putting the Pieces Together 138 • Making the Handles 139 • Sewing It All Together 140 • Boxing the Corners 143 11 Fun-to-Make Gifts / 147 Trimming Infants’ T-shirts 148 • Easy Turned Appliqué 148 • Adding Snaps to Toddler Overalls 149 • Learning Machine Monogramming 152 • Toddlers’ Quiet Books 154 vi 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page vii CONTENTS 12 Lined Baskets and Pincushions / 159 Measuring Your Basket 160 • Cutting Pieces and Pockets 161 • Stitching and Gluing 162 • Adding Trim 164 • Removable Lining 165 • Lining the Lid 167 • Pincushion Basket 168 13 Hanging Caddies / 169 Planning for Specific Uses 170 • Pattern and Pieces 171 • Pockets and Trim 173 • Attachments for Hanging 175 • Putting Front and Back Together 176 • Binding the Edges 177 • Final Details 179 14 “Welcome Spring” Wall Hanging / 181 Reading the Pattern 182 • Planning the Message Blocks 184 • Cutting the Pieces 184 • Piecing the Tulip 186 • Piecing the Butterfly 190 • Learning Reverse Appliqué 192 • Assembling and Quilting 194 • Preparing for Hanging 195 • Folded Binding 196 15 Making a Simple Dress from a Pattern / 199 Choosing a Pattern 200 • Reading the Envelope 200 • Fitting the Pat- tern 202 • Laying Out the Pattern 203 • Cutting and Marking the Pieces 203 • Stitching Darts and Seams 206 • Inserting a Centered Zipper 206 • Sewing Facing and Interfacing 209 • Hem, and You’re Done 211 16 Infant’s Gown / 213 Making a Pattern 214 • Fabric and Notions 215 • Sewing the Sleeves 216 • Making Bias Binding 216 • Finishing the Neckline 218 • Front Fasteners 221 • Making a Casing for the Bottom Tie 221 • Shirt Alter- native 222 17 Making a Vest / 223 Making a Pattern 224 • Shopping and Cutting 225 • Decorating with Crayons 225 • Adding a Slashed Pocket 226 • Adding Back Ties 229 •Constructing the Vest 229 • Reversible Alternative 231 • Sewing the Shoulder Seams 231 • Adding Buttonholes 232 vii 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page viii THE EVERYTHING SEWING BOOK 18 Making a Skirt from a Pattern / 233 Choosing a Pattern 234 • Shopping and Fitting 234 • Cutting and Marking 235 • Sewing Darts and Seams 236 • Inserting a Lapped Zipper 236 • Possible Pockets 239 • Hidden Side Pockets 240 • Finishing the Waistline 241 • Final Details 244 19 Little Girl’s Jumper / 245 Taking Measurements 246 • Choosing Material 247 • Making the Pat- terns 247 • Cutting Pieces by Measure 249 • Constructing the Top 251 • Constructing the Skirt 252 • Attaching Skirt to Front 253 • Buttons, Buttonholes, and Ties 254 20 Tailored Shirt from a Pattern / 257 Beginning as Usual 258 • Finishing the Front Edges 258 • Making Tai- lored Pockets 259 • Sewing One- or Two-Piece Collars 260 • Making Cuff Openings 263 • Adding the Cuffs 265 • Easing in the Sleeves 266 • Finishing with Buttons and Hem 267 21 Advanced Mending and Altering / 269 Appraising the Problem 270 • Darts and Shaping 270 • Shortening Sleeves 271 • Adding Panels 272 • Frayed Cuffs and Collars 274 • Replacing Worn-Out Lining 275•Replacing a Broken Zipper 277•Cam- ouflaging Mended Areas or Stains 278 • Complete Makeover Ideas 279 Appendix A • Glossary / 281 Appendix B • Resources / 289 Index / 295 viii 37-052-0 pp000i-xii.qxd 4/13/04 10:39 AM Page ix A cknowledgments Special thanks to Michael Wentz for letting me watch him clean my sewing machine and Pat Gerhardt, County Extension Agent, for information on crib safety, vest patterns, and other things.