SPRINGER BRIEFS IN MOLECULAR SCIENCE GREEN CHEMISTRY FOR SUSTAINABILITY Kalyani Barve Apurva Dighe The Chemistry and Applications of Sustainable Natural Hair Products 123 SpringerBriefs in Molecular Science Green Chemistry for Sustainability Series editor Sanjay K. Sharma, Jaipur, India More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/10045 Kalyani Barve Apurva Dighe (cid:129) The Chemistry and Applications of Sustainable Natural Hair Products 123 Kalyani Barve Apurva Dighe Shobhaben PratapbhaiPatel School Shobhaben PratapbhaiPatel School ofPharmacy andTechnology ofPharmacy andTechnology Management Management Mumbai Mumbai India India ISSN 2191-5407 ISSN 2191-5415 (electronic) SpringerBriefs inMolecular Science ISSN 2212-9898 SpringerBriefs inGreen Chemistry for Sustainability ISBN978-3-319-29417-9 ISBN978-3-319-29419-3 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-29419-3 LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2016930175 ©TheAuthor(s)2016 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.AllrightsarereservedbythePublisher,whetherthewholeorpart of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission orinformationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation,computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilar methodologynowknownorhereafterdeveloped. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publicationdoesnotimply,evenintheabsenceofaspecificstatement,thatsuchnamesareexemptfrom therelevantprotectivelawsandregulationsandthereforefreeforgeneraluse. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authorsortheeditorsgiveawarranty,expressorimplied,withrespecttothematerialcontainedhereinor foranyerrorsoromissionsthatmayhavebeenmade. Printedonacid-freepaper ThisSpringerimprintispublishedbySpringerNature TheregisteredcompanyisSpringerInternationalPublishingAGSwitzerland Preface The book has been written to provide reference material for those involved in the formulation and development of hair products, namely hair oils, shampoos, con- ditionersandhairdyes.Withtheadventofsyntheticingredientsbeingaddedtohair cosmetics, the incidences of hair damage have increased simultaneously. This can be curbed only with the use of natural products. These have phytoconstituents as their main active ingredients which are nothing, but chemicals. The holistic use ofthesenaturalproductsistheonethatmakesthedifference.Sincethewholeplant orafractionofitisbeingused,ithasanumberofchemicalentitiespresent,someof which synergise the efficacy while others mar the side effects. The authors are thankful to editors, Dr. Sonia Ojo and Dr. Esther Rentmeester, Mr. Ravi Vengadachalam, project co-ordinator, and Springer for giving an opportunity to publish with Springer. The authors would also like to acknowledge the support provided by Shobhaben Pratapbhai Patel School of Pharmacy and Technology Management, SVKM’s NMIMS in creating this book. v Contents 1 Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2 Hair Oils. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2.2 Types of Hair Oils. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2.2.1 Almond Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2.2.2 Argan Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2.2.3 Apricot Seed Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2.2.4 Babassu Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 2.2.5 Castor Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 2.2.6 Coconut Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 2.2.7 Hemp Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 2.2.8 Jojoba Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 2.2.9 Linseed Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 2.2.10 Mustard Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 2.2.11 Nigella sativa Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 2.2.12 Olive Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 2.2.13 Rice Bran Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 2.2.14 Rosehip Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 2.2.15 Safflower Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 2.2.16 Sea Buckthorn Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 2.2.17 Sesame Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 2.2.18 Sunflower Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 2.2.19 Wheat Germ Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.3 Herbal Oil Ingredients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.3.1 Allium cepa (Onion). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.3.2 Allium sativum (Garlic). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 2.3.3 Aloe barbadensis Mill (Aloe vera) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 2.3.4 Camellia sinensis (Green Tea). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 vii viii Contents 2.3.5 Capsicum minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 2.3.6 Centella asiatica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 2.3.7 Cocos nucifera (Coconut Milk) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 2.3.8 Cucurbita pepo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 2.3.9 Emblica Officinalis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 2.3.10 Hibiscus rosa sinensis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 2.3.11 Juniperus communis (Juniper Berry). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 2.3.12 Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 2.3.13 Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 2.3.14 Solanum tuberosum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 2.3.15 Trigonella foenum-graecum (Fenugreek). . . . . . . . . . . . 21 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 3 Hair Shampoo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 3.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 3.2 Acacia concinna (Shikakai). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 3.3 Artemissia abrotanum (Southernwood). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 3.4 Azadirachta indica (Neem) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 3.5 Chlorogalum pomeridianum (Amoly Lilly) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 3.6 Citrus Limon (Lemon) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 3.7 Hemidesmus indicus/Indian Sarsaparilla (Sariva, Sugandhi, Uparsal, Ananthamoola) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 3.8 Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 3.9 Phyllanthus emblica (Amla) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 3.10 Sapindus mukorossi (Reetha). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 3.11 Saponaria officinalis (Soapwort) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 3.12 Quillaja saponaria (Soap Bark). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 3.13 Yucca angustifolia (Yucca) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 3.14 Natural Surfactants. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 4 Hair Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 4.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 4.2 Amaranthus Spinosus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 4.3 Egg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 4.4 Honey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 4.5 Malus Domestica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 4.6 Musa Genus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 4.6.1 Chemical Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 4.7 Persea americana (Avocado). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 4.8 Protein Hydrolysates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 4.9 Yogurt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Contents ix 4.10 Cupuacu Butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 4.11 Mango Butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 4.12 Shea Butter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 5 Hair Colours/Dyes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 5.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 5.2 Alkanna tinctoria (Ratanjot) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 5.3 Cassia obovata/Senna italica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 5.4 Crocus sativus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 5.5 Eclipta prostrate/Eclipta alba (Maka, Bhringraj) . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 5.6 Indigofera tinctoria (Indigo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 5.7 Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 5.8 Lawsonia inermis (Henna) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Chapter 1 Hair Abstract Thischaptergivesanoverviewoftheanatomyandfunctioningofhair.It alsoprovidesinformationontheimportanceofhairasfashionstatement.Tomodify oneslooks,peopletrydifferentcosmeticsnotjustontheskinbutalsoforhair.Most of the hair cosmetics available today have all harmful synthetic chemicals into them.Sothere’saneedtolookoutforsafecosmeticswhichcouldbeprovidedonly from natural sources like plants. (cid:1) (cid:1) (cid:1) Keywords Keratin Hair cosmetics Natural products Plants 1.1 Introduction Hairisoneofthevitalpartsofbodyandadescribingcharacteristicofmammals.It has two features: 1. Hair follicle which lies beneath the skin which helps in re growth of hair and skinasithasthestemcells.Tensorthousandsofthemaredeeplyinvaginatedin the scalp. The dermal papilla is present at the base of the hair follicle, which receives blood supply and provides nourishment to produce new hair. It also contains receptors for testosterones, which regulate hair growth. 2. The filamentous part above the skin which is called a shaft. It is formed as a process of protein synthesis, structural alignment and completion of the kera- tinization of the follicular cells. The shaft has three layers: (a) The outermost layer called the cuticle having flat thin cells. (b) The middle layer containing the fibrillary structure of keratin and pigment melanin. This gives strength, colour and texture to hair. (c) The innermost layer known as the medulla is a centrally vacuolated area. In addition to this the hair also supports the sebaceous and sweat glands. With thisstructurehairfunctionsasaprotectiveappendage.Itgivesafeelingofwarmth and also helps in the sensation of touch (Krause and Foitzik 2006; Feughelman 1997). ©TheAuthor(s)2016 1 K.BarveandA.Dighe,TheChemistryandApplicationsofSustainable NaturalHairProducts,SpringerBriefsinGreenChemistryforSustainability, DOI10.1007/978-3-319-29419-3_1