Copyright © 2001 by Peter Reinhart Photography © 2001 by Ron Manville Photographs AW01, AW02, AW03, AW04 and AW05 by Aaron Wehner All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com Prop styling by Linnea Leeming Student assistants: Rina Hosaka, Alex Molnar, Jennifer Passarella, and Fumie Shibazaki The bagel recipe originally apeared in Fine Cooking (Feb./Mar. 2001); the corn bread and the cranberry-walnut bread recipes originally appeared in Bon Appétit (Nov. 1999). The wheat diagram is used with permission from the Wheat Foods Council. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Reinhart, Peter. The bread baker’s apprentice : mastering the art of extraordinary bread / Peter Reinhart. p. cm. Includes index. eISBN: 978-1-60774129-9 1. Bread. I. Title. TX769 .R4147 2001 641.8′15—dc21 2001002285 v3.1 CONTENTS Acknowledgments Introduction I. What Is It About Bread? II. Deconstructing Bread: A Tutorial Assumptions and Rationales The Twelve Stages of Bread: Evoking the Fullness of Flavor from the Grain III. Formulas The Final Grace Note: Wood-Fired Baking in Bennett Valley Resources Index FORMULAS Pre-ferments Pâte fermentée Poolish Biga Anadama Bread Artos: Greek Celebration Breads Bagels Brioche and Brioche Relatives Casatiello Challah Ciabatta Cinnamon Buns and Sticky Buns Cinnamon Raisin Walnut Bread Corn Bread Cranberry-Walnut Celebration Bread English Muffins Focaccia French Bread Italian Bread Kaiser Rolls Lavash Crackers Light Wheat Bread Marbled Rye Bread Multigrain Bread Extraordinaire Pain à l’Ancienne Pain de Campagne Pane Siciliano Panettone Pizza Napoletana Poolish Baguettes Portuguese Sweet Bread Potato Rosemary Bread Pugliese Sourdough Bread and Variations Basic Sourdough Bread New York Deli Rye 100% Sourdough Rye Bread Poilâne-Style Miche Pumpernickel Bread Sunflower Seed Rye Stollen Swedish Rye (Limpa) Tuscan Bread Vienna Bread White Bread: Three Multipurpose Variations Whole-Wheat Bread Potato, Cheddar, and Chive Torpedoes Roasted Onion and Asiago Miche ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Creating a book of this scope takes, it seems, more than a village, and so I have unabashedly drawn upon all of the villages in which I’ve lived these past twenty years. Let me begin by thanking my wife, Susan, who endured yet another round of marathon writing bursts, supporting me with patience and lots of tea and vitamins. The Ten Speed team has been fantastic at every level. Thanks begin with Publisher Kirsty Melville and Editorial Director Lorena Jones. Aaron Wehner, my editor, has been an exemplar of enthusiasm and sage guidance, proving again that behind every successful writer is a great (and over-worked) editor. Art Director Nancy Austin is not only talented but also great to work with, establishing a warm, collegial atmosphere and encouraging creative ferment. Ten Speed’s enormous support for this project has, I believe, evoked from me the fullness of my potential. Thank you also to Andrea Chesman, Sharon Silva, Linda Bouchard, and Ken DellaPenta for expert copyediting, proofreading, and indexing, respectively. Ron Manville poured his heart and soul into the photography. I was extremely fortunate, upon moving to Providence, to find someone so close to home who could capture in images the vision that was in my head. It was a joy to work with him. Our creative cabal was completed by Linnea Leeming, who brought us incredible energy and joy, along with her inventive prop styling. Johnson & Wales University, my haven of the past two years, has also supported this project with great enthusiasm. I’m especially indebted to Dean Karl Guggenmos, who allowed me to use the labs and classrooms for testing and photography, and to my department chair, Martha Crawford who, as a world-class competition pastry chef, truly understood the nature of this undertaking. Thanks also to Pamela Peters, the director of culinary education, for her unflagging support and consistently positive attitude. The university’s leadership team, including Dr. John Yena, John Bowen, Dr. Irving Schneider, Tom Wright, and Tom Farrell, sets a tone of inspiration and forward thinking. Assistant Public Relations Director, Linda Beaulieu, has been fantastic in helping me spread news of the bread revolution. A special thanks to my colleague Steve Kalble, a great teacher and one of the most passionate bread bakers I’ve ever known. Thanks also to Ciril Hitz, pastry instructor and bread artiste, who taught me many shaping techniques even while he was in training for the 2002 Coupe du Monde competition. The entire faculty at Johnson & Wales inspires me with their commitment to education and their love of the transmission of knowledge. They are, collectively, my current mentors. My students are also my teachers, but a few must be singled out for their special contributions, helping enormously with the photo shoot and covering for me on their own time when I was on crutches. Fumie Shibazaki (pictured on the cover), Alex Molnar, Jennifer Passarella, and Rina Hosaka make me proud to be a teacher. Before Johnson & Wales I was nurtured at the California Culinary Academy where I first began my exploration of pain à l’ancienne. While there, I was privileged to work with chefs Robert Parks, Reg Elgin, Tony Marano, Nick Snell, and many others, including Greg Tompkins, who is now doing great work for Starbucks. Thanks also to my former CCA student, Peter DiCroce, for his passion for pane siciliano that led to the breakthrough formula in this book. Thank you to that unique fellowship known as the Baker’s Dozen and its founders, Marion Cunningham and Flo Braker, along with my fellow bread chapter editors Fran Gage and Carol Field, and all the other chapter editors. After seven years of brainstorming and editorial meetings and countless recipe testing workshops, The Baker’s Dozen Cookbook is coming out, amazingly, the same month as this book. I learned so much about baking and the love of baking by being a part of that group. Three local Providence bakeries contributed their support and their loaves for some of the photos. Providence, like so many cities around the country, is experiencing the bread revolution through both old and new