The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Boston cooking-school cook book, by Fannie Merritt Farmer This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook. Title: The Boston cooking-school cook book Author: Fannie Merritt Farmer Release Date: April 11, 2021 [eBook #65061] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 Produced by: Richard Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive) *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK *** Table laid for Formal Dinner.—Frontispiece. THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER OF MISS FARMER’S SCHOOL OF COOKERY AUTHOR OF “CHAFING-DISH POSSIBILITIES,” AND “FOOD AND COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND CONVALESCENT” REVISED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-FIVE NEW RECIPES, THE RECIPES FROM THE APPENDIX AND THE ADDENDA INTRODUCED IN LOGICAL ORDER THROUGHOUT THE BOOK, AND ONE HUNDRED HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS BOSTON LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 1910 Copyright, 1896, 1900, 1901, 1902, 1903, 1904, 1905, 1906 By Fannie Merritt Farmer TO MRS. WILLIAM B. SEWALL, President of the Boston Cooking School, IN APPRECIATION OF HER HELPFUL ENCOURAGEMENT AND UNTIRING EFFORTS IN PROMOTING THE WORK OF SCIENTIFIC COOKERY, WHICH MEANS THE ELEVATION OF THE HUMAN RACE, THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED By the Author. Cookery means the knowledge of Medea and of Circe and of Helen and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits and balms and spices, and all that is healing and sweet in the fields and groves and savory in meats. It means carefulness and inventiveness and willingness and readiness of appliances. It means the economy of your grandmothers and the science of the modern chemist; it means much testing and no wasting; it means English thoroughness and French art and Arabian hospitality; and, in fine, it means that you are to be perfectly and always ladies—loaf givers.—Ruskin. PREFACE “But for life the universe were nothing; and all that has life requires nourishment.” With the progress of knowledge the needs of the human body have not been forgotten. During the last decade much time has been given by scientists to the study of foods and their dietetic value, and it is a subject which rightfully should demand much consideration from all. I certainly feel that the time is not far distant when a knowledge of the principles of diet will be an essential part of one’s education. Then mankind will eat to live, will be able to do better mental and physical work, and disease will be less frequent. At the earnest solicitation of educators, pupils, and friends, I have been urged to prepare this book, and I trust it may be a help to many who need its aid. It is my wish that it may not only be looked upon as a compilation of tried and tested recipes, but that it may awaken an interest through its condensed scientific knowledge which will lead to deeper thought and broader study of what to eat. F. M. F. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page I. Food 1 II. Cookery 15 III. Beverages 32 IV. Bread and Bread Making 46 V. Biscuits, Breakfast Cakes, and Shortcakes 70 VI. Cereals 85 VII. Eggs 94 VIII. Soups 109 IX. Soups without Stock 135 X. Soup Garnishings and Force-meats 145 XI. Fish 151 XII. Beef 191 XIII. Lamb and Mutton 214 XIV. Veal 226 XV. Sweetbreads 232 XVI. Pork 235 XVII. Poultry and Game 240 XVIII. Fish and Meat Sauces 265 XIX. Vegetables 280 XX. Potatoes 309 XXI. Salads and Salad Dressings 322 XXII. Entrées 348 XXIII. Hot Puddings 390 XXIV. Pudding Sauces 406 XXV. Cold Desserts 411 XXVI. Ices, Ice Creams, and other Frozen Desserts 433 XXVII. Pastry 460 XXVIII. Pies 466 XXIX. Pastry Desserts 475 XXX. Gingerbreads, Cookies, and Wafers 482 XXXI. Cake 497 XXXII. Cake Fillings and Frostings 524 XXXIII. Fancy Cakes and Confections 533 XXXIV. Sandwiches and Canapés 549 XXXV. Recipes for the Chafing-dish 556 XXXVI. Fruits: Fresh, Preserved, and Canned 567 XXXVII. Helpful Hints for the Young Housekeeper 586 XXXVIII. Suitable Combinations for Serving 592 Breakfast Menus 592 Luncheon Menus 594 Dinner Menus 597 Menu for Thanksgiving Dinner 600 Menu for Christmas Dinner 600 A Full Course Dinner 600 Menus for Full Course Dinners 602 Glossary 605 Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery 607 Index 617 ix x LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Table laid for Formal Dinner Frontispiece Facing Page A Group of Kitchen Utensils 14 Measuring Cups and Tea and Table Measuring Spoons 15 The Whipping of Heavy and Thin Cream 15 Five o’Clock Tea Service 34 Chocolate Service 34 Coffee Percolators and Pot 35 After-Dinner Coffee Service 35 Punch Service 44 Claret Cup Service 44 Double Loaves of Milk and Water Bread 45 Boston Brown Bread 45 Parker House Rolls; Salad Rolls; Clover Leaf Biscuit; Sticks 58 Sweet French Rolls 58 Coffee Cakes (Brioche) 59 Swedish Tea Ring; Swedish Tea Braid 59 Swedish Tea Ring II before baking 64 Swedish Tea Ring II 64 Raised Hominy Muffins 65 Pop-Overs 65 Waffles 80 Strawberry Shortcake 80 Shirred Egg 81 Eggs à la Commodore 81 Planked Eggs 104 Plain Omelet 104 Utensils and Materials for the starting of Brown Soup Stock 105 Utensils for making Cream Soups 134 Cream Soup and Croûtons ready for serving 134 Croûtons; Imperial Sticks; Mock Almonds 135 Souffléd Crackers 135 Broiled Mackerel garnished with Potato Balls, Cucumber Ribbons, Slices of Lemon cut in fancy shapes, and Parsley 160 Hollenden Halibut 160 Stuffed Haddock ready for baking 161 Smelts prepared for cooking 161 Planked Haddock 170 Fillets of Fish à la Bement 170 Oyster Cocktail I and II 171 Clams Union League 186 Oysters à la Ballard 186 Lobster Cocktail 187 Fruit Cocktail 187 xi xii Cuts of Beef 194 Cuts of Beef 195 Planks for Planked Dishes 200 Beefsteak à la Maribeau 200 Side of Veal 201 Side of Lamb 201 Kidney Lamb Chop; Rib Chop; French Chop 218 Crown of Lamb, prepared for roasting 218 Saddle of Mutton as purchased 219 Saddle of Mutton Roasted and Garnished 219 Sweetbreads à la Napoli 234 Braised Sweetbreads Eugénie 234 Breslin Potted Chicken in Casserole Dish 235 Chicken Broiled and Garnished 235 Roast Turkey garnished for serving 256 Duck, stuffed and trussed for roasting 256 Stuffed Egg Plant 257 Purée of Spinach 257 Macedoine of Vegetables à la Poulette 308 Stuffed Peppers 308 O’Brion Potatoes 309 Potato Croquettes ready for frying 316 Potato Nests and Potatoes, Somerset Style 316 Cucumber Salad 317 Cucumber Baskets 317 Asparagus Salad, Individual Service 330 Berkshire Salad in Boxes 330 Egg Salad 331 Pear Salad 331 Mexican Jelly 342 Lobster Salad III 342 Oyster Crabs à la Newburg, Individual Service 343 Sweetbread Ramequins 343 Russian Cutlets 374 Dresden Patties 374 Devilled Crabs 375 Pan Broiled Lamb Chops à la Lucullus 375 Chaud-froid of Eggs 386 Capon in Aspic 386 Harvard Pudding served with Crushed Berries and Whipped Cream 387 Snowballs garnished with Strawberries 387 Toasted Marshmallows 422 Royal Diplomatic Pudding 422 Charlotte Russe 423 Orange Trifle garnished with Whipped Cream, Candied Orange Peel, and Blossoms 423 xiii Coup Sicilienne 442 Coup à l’Ananas 442 Coffee Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe 442 Vanilla Ice Cream served in half of Cantaloupe with Fruit Garnish 442 Bombe Glacée 443 Junket Ice Cream with Peaches 443 Utensils and Materials for the making of Puff Paste 460 Calvé Tarts 460 Patties garnished with Pastry Rings and Parsley 461 English Meat Pie 461 Cheese Straws 474 Cocoanut Tea Cakes 474 Fruit Baskets 475 Lemon Tartlets 475 Rich Cookies 488 Royal Fans 488 Chocolate Cakes and Crescents 489 Meringues 489 English Rolled Wafers I-II 494 Marguerites I 494 Mocha Cakes and Small Éclairs 495 Ice Cream Cake with Nut Caramel Frosting 495 Cake frosted for St. Valentine’s Day for the use of Mocha Frosting 532 Ornamental Frosted Cake 532 Dipped Walnuts 533 Bonbons 533 Cream Mints 548 Candied Orange Peel 548 Bread and Butter Folds 549 Noisette Sandwiches 549 Lobster Canapé 554 Canapé Martha 554 Jelly Bag and other necessary utensils for jelly making 555 Marmalades, Jams, and Jellies 555 Utensils necessary for canning 576 Canned Fruits 576 Red Peppers being prepared for canning 577 Pickles ready for serving and Crock for keeping Pickles 577 Table laid for Breakfast 592 Luncheon Table laid for Fish Course 593 Table laid for Formal Luncheon 596 Centrepiece for Luncheon or Dinner Table 597 Centrepiece for Thanksgiving Dinner Table 597 xiv xv Christmas Dinner Table 600 Table laid for Reception 601 F THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK CHAPTER I FOOD ood is anything which nourishes the body. From fifteen to twenty elements enter into the composition of the body, of which the following thirteen are considered: oxygen, 62½%; carbon, 21½%; hydrogen, 10%; nitrogen, 3%; calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sulphur, chlorine, sodium, magnesium, iron, and fluorine the remaining 3%. Food is necessary for growth, repair, and energy; therefore the elements composing the body must be found in the food. The thirteen elements named are formed into chemical compounds by the vegetable and animal kingdoms to support the highest order of being, man. All food must undergo chemical change after being taken into the body, before it can be utilized by the body; this is the office of the digestive system. Food is classified as follows:— I. Organic 1. Proteid (nitrogenous or albuminous) 2. Carbohydrates (sugar and starch) 3. Fats and oils II. Inorganic 1. Mineral matter 2. Water The chief office of proteids is to build and repair tissues. They furnish energy, but at greater cost than carbohydrates, fats, and oils. They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur or phosphorus, and include all forms of animal foods (excepting fats and glycogen) and some vegetable foods. Examples: milk, cheese, eggs, meat, fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The principal constituent of proteid food is albumen. Albumen as found in food takes different names, but has the same chemical composition; as, albumen in eggs, fibrin in meat, casein in milk and cheese, vegetable casein or legumen in peas, beans, and lentils; and gluten in wheat. To this same class belongs gelatin. The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and maintain heat. They contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and include foods containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables, fruits, cereals, sugars, and gums. The chief office of fats and oils is to store energy and heat to be used as needed, and constitute the adipose tissues of the body. Examples: butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the berry of the olive-tree. The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts which are found in all animal and vegetable foods. Examples: sodium chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and phosphates of sodium, potassium, and magnesium; besides calcium phosphates and iron. Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in all tissues and fluids; therefore its abundant use is necessary. One of the greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while it is found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is insufficient. 1 2 CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD Age, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine the diet of a person in normal condition. Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various prepared foods on the market) should constitute the diet of a child for the first eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time ferments have been developed for the digestion of starchy foods, entire wheat bread, baked potatoes, cereals, meat broths, and occasionally boiled eggs may be given. If mothers would use Dr. Johnson’s Educators in place of the various sweet crackers, children would be as well pleased and better nourished; with a glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs of little ones, and experience has shown that children seldom tire of them. The diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked fruits, vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish and meat may be introduced, if given sparingly. Always avoid salted meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried food, pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee, and iced water. For school children the diet should be varied and abundant, constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great mental and physical growth. Where children have broken down, supposedly from over-work, the cause has often been traced to impoverished diet. It must not be forgotten that digestive processes go on so rapidly that the stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the institutor of the school luncheon-counter! The daily average ration of an adult requires 4½ oz. proteid 2 oz. fat 18 oz. starch 5 pints water About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as a beverage. To keep in health and do the best mental and physical work, authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate climates, although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian. Women, even though they do the same amount of work as men, as a rule require less food. Brain workers should take their proteid in a form easily digested. In consideration of this fact, fish and eggs form desirable substitutes for meat. The working man needs quantity as well as quality, that the stomach may have something to act upon. Corned beef, cabbage, brown-bread, and pastry, will not overtax his digestion. In old age the digestive organs lessen in activity, and the diet should be almost as simple as that of a child, increasing the amount of carbohydrates and decreasing the amount of proteids and fat. Many diseases which occur after middle life are due to eating and drinking such foods as were indulged in during vigorous manhood. 3 4 WATER (H2O) Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from five sources,—rains, rivers, surface-water or shallow wells, deep wells, and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly pure when gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from springs. For town and city supply, surface-water is furnished by some adjacent pond or lake. Samples of such water are carefully and frequently analyzed, to make sure that it is not polluted with disease germs. The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime and magnesia which it contains. Soft water is free from objectionable salts, and is preferable for household purposes. Hard water may be softened by boiling, or by the addition of a small amount of bicarbonate of soda (NaHCO3). Water freezes at a temperature of 32° F., boils at 212° F.; when bubbles appear on the surface and burst, the boiling-point is reached. In high altitudes water boils at a lower temperature. From 32° to 65° F. water is termed cold; from 65° to 92° F., tepid; 92° to 100° F., warm; over that temperature, hot. Boiled water is freed from all organic impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated: it does not ferment, and is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more stimulating than cold, and is of use taken on an empty stomach, while at a temperature of from 60° to 95° F. it is used as an emetic; 90° F. being the most favorable temperature. Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal purposes. It is flat and insipid to the taste, having been deprived of its atmospheric gases. There are many charged, carbonated, and mineral spring waters bottled and put on the market; many of these are used as agreeable table beverages. Examples: Soda Water, Apollinaris, Poland, Seltzer, and Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value. Examples: Lithia, saline, and sulphur waters. 5 SALTS Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt; it exists in all tissues, secretions, and fluids of the body, with the exception of enamel of the teeth. The amount found in food is not always sufficient; therefore salt is used as a condiment. It assists digestion, inasmuch as it furnishes chlorine for hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice. Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea-water, also from mines. Our supply of salt obtained by evaporation comes chiefly from Michigan and New York; mined salt from Louisiana and Kansas. Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting meat and fish. Other salts—lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron—are obtained in sufficient quantity from food we eat and water we drink. In young children, perfect formation of bones and teeth depends upon phosphorus and lime taken into the system; these are found in meat and fish, but abound in cereals.