Well, here we are again!!! Eleven years later Peruvian Cuisine is catching on avTo my surprise, and our Foundation’s greater well-being, “The Art of Peruvian Cuisine” (Book I) is going stronger than ever!! We are about to print volume number 85,000 of that book, as we head into the printing of the first 5,000 copies of Book II. Today, only a decade after my invitation to visit Peru for a “gastronomic tour” was considered outlandish, we have hundreds of tourists a week who arrive in Lima to do just that. There are tours to Lima’s many wonderful restaurants, and there are also visitors who spend several days going to the market and cooking their meals under the supervision and guidance of Peruvian Chefs. I am amazed at what has happened. My amazement has impelled me to put together this volume, Book II, in order to share with you what has gone on in these past eleven years. Peruvian Cuisine is daily more surprising and evolved. This sophistication increasingly includes the techniques and ingredients of other areas –The Andes, The Amazon, etc.– that were notably absent from Book I. Just as interesting to me is the fact that of over 20 chefs in this book, only 6 are found in Book I. In fact, quite a few of the new Chefs were in culinary schools or even attending high school when “The Art of Peruvian Cuisine I” came out in March of 2000. Every one of them, though, has “grown up”, as it were, intimately familiar with Book I. Along with all this, we have the great satisfaction that Book I has given our Foundation. When it hit bookshelves in 2000, we had 140 students in 3 schools. Today, 40 teachers running 12 centers have given remedial help to over 1600 students and 800 of their parents in 2010 alone… a true win-win situation. About the Author: Tony Custer, creator, editor and publisher of ‘The Art of Peruvian Cuisine’ is a graduate of Harvard in Economics with an MBA from the Harvard Business School. A published children’s book author, his love of cooking and good eating has led him to try to help dissipate the anonymity that has long shrouded Peruvian cuisine. In 1998 Tony Custer created ‘Aprendamos Juntos’, a program that installs special classrooms with full time psychologists/therapists who give on the spot remedial help to children with learning disabilities in Lima’s poorest schools. All of the proceeds from the sale of this book will go to the Custer Foundation’s ‘Aprendamos Juntos’ program. Edited by Fundación Felipe Antonio Custer Contents Preface Prologue Introduction Acknowledgements Making this Book History Ingredients Pisco Recipes Aperitifs Chilcano de anís Ginger ale and Pisco highball with a hint of anise Chilcano de Pisco Ginger ale and Pisco highball Jugo de granadilla y mandarina Tangerine and granadilla juice Melón Pisco Melon Pisco Pisco punch Pisco, key lime and pineapple Deconstructed Pisco sour Pisco sour accompanied by sugar cane, sweet limes and meringue Sorbet de camu camu y moras de estación al mosto verde Green Pisco must, mulberries and camu camu sorbet Tini de maíz morado Purple corn Tini Tramposito Passion fruit and huacatay highball Tuna Pisco Prickly pear fruit Pisco Tunche Pisco, key lime, cranberry, cocona and Fernet Branca highball Tunche de aguaymanto Aguaymanto (cape gooseberry) Tunche Hors d’oeuvres & Appetizers Ají limo confitado, atún y milhojas de queso de cabra y coca Ají limo confit, fresh tuna and goat cheese in crunchy layers Albóndigas de langostinos en salsa ligera de naranjas Shrimp balls in light orange sauce Almeja del bigote Clams, mushrooms, ají limo and kernels of fresh corn on the half shell Atún Carpaccio Toshi-Style Fresh tuna carpaccio marinated in sake vinegar with Tiger’s Milk, Japanesse spices, turnip sprouts Atún Tataki, escabeche de yacón y torrija de coca, shot de arazá Cubes of seared tuna, spicy cooked onion sauce, coca fritter and Tiger’s Milk Butifarra Romana Roast pork sandwich on sour dough bread Carpaccio de olluco Finely sliced alpaca ham on olluco with charqui sauce Conchas atómicas Grilled scallops with parmesan cheese, basil and garlic Crocante amazónico Crunchy rolls of deep-fried wanton stuffed with smoked dried cecina, bellaco banana and Dambo Cheese served with cocona and charapita ají sauce Pompones de mascarpone Crunchy phyllo dough strips filled with scallops and mascarpone cheese Pulpo agridulce Sweet and sour octopus Rollos de tacu tacu Tacu tacu rolls wrapped in serrano ham served with a sweet miso dipping sauce Sandwich de chicharrón zafado Crisp pork chicharrón and deep-fried shrimp roll with Huancaína sauces Sandwiches de pejerrey Crunchy fried silverside and salsa criolla and mayonnaise rolls Trío de abrebocas: cubos de atún brulée con jugo de cocona y tobiko Sugar-seared fresh tuna cubes served in shot glass with juice and flying fish caviar Trío de abrebocas: barquillos con conchas chili-mayo Cornettes filled with raw scallops and spicy ají amarillo mayonnaise Trío de abrebocas: langostinos cocoliche Caramelized shrimp coated with puffed rice, served with wasabi foam First courses Ají amarillo escarchado y rabo de vaca, chonta y arúgula Crystallized ají amarillo, ox tail, heart of palm with arugula dressing Capchi de setas y camarón Sautéed oyster mushrooms and crayfish tails served with potatoes and fava beans in a spicy cheese sauce Causa – Causa anticuchera Squid and sea bass brochettes with sweet potato and yellow potato causa – Causa Chiclayana Causa with yuca, sweet potato, corn, banana, boiled egg and crayfish with a spicy escaveche sauce – Causa de pallares Lima bean causa with lima bean, cheese and onion salad with charcoal grilled octopus and smoked tuna – Causa de papa morada Volcanoes of purple potato causa, sea urchin and scallop ceviche and sea urchin sauce Ceviche – Ceviche a la brasa de Pirucho y langostas de Puerto Etén Grilled fish and lobster ceviche – Ceviche chino Peruvian grunt and pickled Chinese vegetable ceviche – Ceviche con chicharrón de calamar Pacific sea bass ceviche topped with rings of crispy squid – Ceviche Costanera de lenguado y pulpo Flounder and octopus ceviche with Japanese spices – Ceviche de lenguado a la crema de ají limo Flounder, scallop and crab meat ceviche with a creamy ají limo sauce – Ceviche galáctico de lenguado, conchas señoritas y cangrejo en crema de erizo Flounder, scallop and crab meat ceviche in creamy sea urchin tigress’s milk Chicharrón de camarones Crispy crayfish chicharrón with chupe mayonnaise on a base of fried yuca and sweet potato, salsa criolla Concha maca Scallops with maca, avocado, flying fish caviar, special tartar sauce, Tiger’s Milk, kelp Conchas de Casma con salsa de wasabi y brotes de caviar Scallops in Tiger’s Milk with wasabi sauce Conchas en salsa de perejil con kushuro y maca Fresh scallops, Japanese cucumber, Kushuru, maca and smoked, dried seaweed with parsley Tiger’s Milk Conchitas en mantequilla de limón Scallops in key lime butter sauce Crujiente de chicharrón Crispy slices of pork chicharrón on a base of fried sweet potato and sweet potato purée covered in Huancaína sauce and salsa criolla Empanadas Meat pies filled with stir-fried sirloin steak, tenderloin stew and chicken in creamy yellow ají sauce Ensalada de spaghetti integrales al ocopa y langostinos Whole wheat spaghetti salad with Ocopa and shrimp sauce Huevo pochado con cremoso de Padano Poached egg with a creamy Gran Padano cheese sauce Martini de cebiche con espuma de ají amarillo y pisco mosto verde Squid and octopus in a creamy rocoto and green must Pisco sauce with a hot ají amarillo foam Musciame de atún Fine slices of tuna musciame on top of a base of slices of avocado and tomato Pejerrey ahumado, crema de cilantro, choclo frito y camote dulce Smoked silverside fillets dipped in Tiger’s Milk and served with kernels of corn and glazed sweet potatoes Pulpo al carbón morado, emulsión de palta, pac choy, emulsión de olivo y gremolata Charcoal cooked octopus and pac choi with a parsley, garlic, anchovy and caper sauce Rocotos rellenos de morcilla Rocotos stuffed with blood sausage or black pudding with cooked yellow potatoes topped with a spicy ají and white wine sauce Rolls – Berenjakao Japanese eggplants with pork, crayfish tail and Donku mushroom stuffing covered with oyster sauce and sesame oil – Causaki Fried crayfish tails, cream cheese and avocado on a yellow potato causa roll with Huancaína and spicy ají amarillo and onion sauces – Conchitas a la parmesana roll Furai shrimp tail and avocado maki with scallops with Parmesan cheese au gratin – Maki acevichado Fried shrimp tails, cream cheese and avocado maki with ceviche-style Tiger’s Milk sauce – Rollitos de pejerrey con causa de yuca y salsa acevichada con aromas de culantro Deep-fried silverside and yuca causa rolls with cilantro and Tiger’s Milk sauce and salsa criolla Tiradito – Tiradito de conchas, tártar de conchas, polvo de coral, papa Huamantanga en tubo confitada, leche de tigre amarillo Slices of fresh scallops with a Tiger’s Milk sauce, powdered scallop coral, tartar sauce and potato cylinders confit – Tiradito de maracuyá Slices of fresh salmon with a passion fruit sauce and Hondashi and black pepper Pichicata Tubérculos, bulbos y raíces Vegetarian dish representing the cycle of nature: earth, roots, green leaves and flowers with a piquant garlic foam and beet gel Main Dishes Arroces Arroz tapado de cangrejo Molded rice filled with stone crab meat Arroz verde con curry y conchas Green rice with curry and scallops Atún con tamarindo y coco Fresh tuna with Chinese vegetables served in tamarind sauce with coconut foam, winter fried rice Cabrito orgánico de la familia Igreda Organic giblet- stuffed kid shoulder cooked in chicha de jora, loche purée, potato cylinders confit, seco sauce and watercress salad Caldo de Gallina Classic rich hen in broth with an Oriental touch and soft-boiled egg Camarones con sabores de chupe Crayfish in a chowder sauce, milk-skin cannellone Canilla de cordero cocida a baja temperatura con carapulcra a manera de risotto Slow-cooked lamb shank in red wine reduction with risotto-style carapulcra Carrillera de ternera estofada una noche Slow-cooked veal cheeks in red wine reduction thickened with ground fresh corn and squash Chita escamosa en jardín de choclo y jugo de porcón Crispy Peruvian Grunt with puréed corn and Porcón mushrooms and highland Andean cheese Cochinillo con naranjitas chinas Crispy slow-cooked suckling pig, kumquats in heavy syrup, black bean tacu tacu, fried banana, fried egg and spicy onion sauce Corvina en costra de quinua roja Pacific sea bass in a red quinoa crust, artichoke heart and asparagus tips, balsamic reduction Corvina Kapallaq Grilled Pacific sea bass and shrimp with ají amarillo sauce, Huamantanga potato purée Costillar de cabrito de leche a la brasa y puré de loche 196 Milk-fed kid ribs cooked in wine on loche squash purée Cuy crocante Crunchy guinea pig confit, chickpea tamales with Amazonian chorizo, criollo sauce with tamarind Fettuccini a la Huancaína con lomo y su juguito Sautéed tenderloin and pan juices served on fettuccini with Huaincaína sauce Gnocchi de papa amarilla con cauche de queso y camarones Gnocchi, melted fresh cheese sauce with vegetables and huacatay served with crayfish Inchicapi de paiche Fillet of paiche in hen stock flavored with jerky, peanut and sachaculatro, tapoca garnish Juane de pato From the rainforest, rice tamal with deboned duck leg steamed in leaves Lasaña de lomo saltado Prize-winning dish at Mistura 2010, lasagna made with sautéed tenderloin and Huancaína sauce Lomo saltado de pechuga de pato con tacu tacu Stir-fried duck breast in a sauce of onion, tomato and soy sauce with bean and rice tacu tacu patties Mero al carbón Charcoal grilled grouper, hulled wheat risotto, Limoncello foam Pierna de pato crocante Crisp-skinned duck leg on rice with black and white beans, spicy criollo radish relish Pig y trufa Suckling pig with Culatello di Zibello ham; mushroom, cream cheese and black truffle-stuffed native potatoes, highland Andean herbs Pollo a la brasa Spit-roasted chicken marinated in passion fruit, pineapple and black beer Pollo bebé pekinés Baby chicken in Nikkei sauce, Japanese pickled turnip, ginger, scallions, vegetarian fried rice Pulpo brasa, puré de habas, canelón de piquillo y queso de cabra Charcoal grilled octopus, fava bean purée, piquillo pepper and goat cheese cannelloni Raviol Camaná de Camarón en Jugo de Chupe Crayfish, Parmesan and fava bean purée filled ravioli with crayfish, fried quail eggs in chowder sauce Risotto criollo Sautéed tenderloin on risotto Tacu tacu a la norteña con seco de langostinos Rice and bean patties northern style with shrimp in a cilantro seco sauce. Tacu tacu de pepián con saltado de camarón Fresh ground corn and rice patty with crayfish in creamy sauce Side Dishes Arroz a la peruana Peruvian white rice Frijol guisado & Puré de pallares Canary bean casserole & Large dried white lima bean (butterbean) purée Basic Recipes Aceite de achiote Achiote oil Arroz con leche Rice pudding, served with port wine meringue Mantequilla de coral de camarón Crayfish coral butter Caldo de camarón Crayfish stock Fondo oscuro Dark meat stock Fumet de pescado Fish stock Manjar blanco Manjar blanco Papas al hilo o de otros tubérculos Fried shoestring potatoes or other tubers Puré de ajo Garlic purée Confit de ajo Garlic confit Suspiro de limeña Suspiro de limeña Leche de tigre Tiger’s Milk Leche de tigre al estilo Toshi Toshi-style Tiger’s Milk Arroz sushi al estilo Toshi Toshi-style sushi rice Condiments and Sauces Aderezos Seasonings: – Pasta de ají amarillo Ají amarillo paste – Pastas de ají mirasol & ají panca Dried ají mirasol & ají panca – Salsa madre Mother of sauces Salsas Sauces: – Huacatay Huacatay sauce – Jalpahuaica Spicy rocoto and tomato sauce – Mayonesa de ají Spicy ají amarillo mayonnaise – Mayonesa de rocoto Spicy rocoto mayonnaise – Salsa a la Huancaína Spicy ají amarillo and fresh white cheese sauce – Salsa criolla Criollo sauce – Salsa cruda de rocoto Fresh rocoto salsa – Salsa de ají y cebolla china Spicy ají amarillo and scallion sauce Aderezos de anticuchos Marinades for brochettes Desserts Alfajores de miel Delicate cookies filled with thick treacle filling Borrachito de yuca al pisco con sorbete de maracuyá Individual yuca cakes with a Pisco spice sauce accompanied by passion fruit ice cream Canutos crocantes de quinua rellenos con manjar de lúcuma Crunchy quinoa canutos filled with lúcuma manjar blanco accompanied by chocolate sauce, strawberries and fresh aguaymantos Chocolate Naranjillo, chirimoya - limon, pisco y rocoto Chirimoya ice cream with chocolate sauce, Pisco gelatin and rocoto nougat Cocada Coconut cookie with coconut manjar blanco sauce “El clásico” Mazamorra morada/ Arroz con leche Purple corn semi-transparent pudding with dried fruits Fresas al maíz morado Strawberries in purple corn sauce, corn and coconut ice cream, corn cake, caramelized parched corn Kin kon a mi estilo Layers of puff pastry, manjar blanco and apricot jam Limón de convento con recuerdos de pie de limón crust Key limes stuffed with lemon pie filling, manjar blanco and almond foam Mamey-queso Cholembert, toques de mostaza Peruvian goat milk Cholombert cheese, mamey in heavy syrup, orache leaves, molle gelatin Mil hojas de chocolate crocante Layered chocolate nougatine, banana slices, manjar blanco ice cream, pistachio praline Suspiro de Limeña de Chirimoya Rich caramel and chirimoya (custard apple) pudding with port wine meringue Suspiro de Limeña de Chocolate Rich caramel and chocolate pudding with port wine meringue Suspiro de Limeña de Lúcuma Rich caramel and lúcuma pudding with port wine meringue Torta trufa de chocolate y lúcuma Chocolate cake with layers of lúcuma mousse and chocolate mousse with chocolate whipped cream Tiendas especializadas en productos latinoamericanos South american specialty food stores or ingredients sources Algunos restaurantes en Lima de comida criolla y europea Some of Lima’s finest criollo and european eating Algunos restaurantes en el extranjero de los chef incluidos en esta obra Some of the same chefs’ restaurants abroad Bibliografía Bibliography Preface by Moisés Naím Is there anything more specifically local than the manner in which a country’s or a city’s inhabitants cook a chicken or a fish? Or the way in which they season their soup? No. And yet, is there anything more “globalized” than food? Again, no. In fact, from the time Marco Polo “globalized” Chinese noodles and set the stage for Italy’s signature dish, or since sausages typical of Frankfurt in Germany transmuted internationally into the ubiquitous “hot dog”, tracing the distribution of dishes around the world has allowed us to see globalization’s true frontiers. Throughout centuries, cuisines have developed in much the same way as the habits and customs of nations and even as their languages and dialects have. So it is that in New Guinea, until recently, the inhabitants of one valley had great difficulty in communicating verbally with their neighbors in nearby valleys. In much the same way, a connoisseur of French cuisine could geographically “locate” a dish by tasting it, or simply by looking at it. Yet, in spite of this tightly-knit regionalism, today we are faced by a revolution that has world cuisine at its forefront and is opening thousands of the most surprising doors. Globalization is often associated with economics, politics or international power struggles. Mobile telephoning, the internet, great ships carrying containers of the most varied merchandise, and global financiers who can move billions across the planet with a few simple touches on their keyboards, are all also emblematic of this trend. So, too, are Mc Donald’s golden arches. The ubiquitous restaurants of this chain of hamburger eateries (serving the flattened meatballs originally from Hamburg, Germany) bring with them a very marked US cultural message and have become a symbol of globalization - and thus also a preferred target for the stones and other missiles of marchers protesting globalization. One of the most common charges leveled against globalization is that it is only one more trick used by the world’s richer and more powerful nations to impose their agendas and their culture on the rest of the world. And certainly, seen from this point of view, McDonald’s is clear evidence of this “cultural imperialism”. The other one is, of course, Coca Cola. In other words, food and drink… The perspective of these critics is that the US exports –or imposes-its consumption and nutrition parameters on the rest of the world, and that the rest of us have no alternative but to adopt these foreign feeding habits. There may be some truth in this. Some. But not as much as may seem. There is no doubt that the US exerts a powerful cultural influence on the rest of the world. Also about what and how we eat. But there is no doubt, either, that globalization makes it easier for all cultural influences to migrate following the most varied and surprising routes. And not all these migrations follow the itineraries that the critics anticipate. It’s a mistake to assume that cultural influences travel only from the USA outward. Sometimes it’s the other way around. Only two or three decades ago no one would have imagined baseball fans at their favorite stadium eating raw fish rolled up in rice and dried seaweed. What recently was unimaginable is today commonplace. Today, food concessions at ballparks in Dallas and Chicago sell the same sushi we find in Recife or Reykjavík, Kabul or Kiev. Sushi’s globalization is a perfect example of how a very local form of cuisine has become global.