The ART of Volume ™® “ee ; aking ——-- RATNER CASES AuSToHLMAN ALL OF THE CASES IN THIS BOOK ARE COMPLETELY HAND SEWN [A SPECIAL THANKS to my wife, Ann, for all the help in making this book. possible. She has sown all of the projects in thie book where handstitching and Bockstitching atsembly was required. -ineluding the handsewing of all of the Zipper installations. She ha also carved and dyed many of the decoretive designs. When sewing large projects, itis often impossible or impractial to put them in the stitching horse, One should then got a5 comfortable as possible and hold the ct between the legs as shown i the photo above. Use any aids at your isposal to make the job as easy as possible. Often times stuffing the case ful of ‘towels (or other soft material) alds im holding its shape while sewing If sewing machines are available, by all means use them wheraver you can if they will do the job. All ff our sewing is by hand to ensure the finest, jongest. construction possible. . as well as professional appearance. ‘This also ilustrates that without the FOREWORD VOLUME TWO Ithis book) is # continuation of Volume ONE. .."The Art of Making Leather Cases”, This volume will expand your cate making knowlodg, There are so many different styles end types of leather cases that we annat get them all within the covers of one, twa, or perhape aven thrae volumes. Therefore, wo will have te ‘devote ‘ture Volumes on this subject to cover such items as: guitar cares, rulteaes, garmant age, golf bog, ‘gun cases, ett. We with to cover the subject of emeemaking as thoroughly te possible to enable you to make © ‘as2 for any object or purpose, With the information in Volume ONE and Volume TWO you should be wall on ‘your way to making 2 wide variety of leather cases ..with satisfying professional results. Volume TWO features the construction of a wide variety of handles and thei uses and application. Welted con- struction i also featured. where the case is assembled inside out, sown. ..then reversee. This makes a very strong and attractive seam. We ao show the many facets of zipper uses ‘and how to make and install ther, We endeavor {o instruct you on hows to.design your own eases for speoife Items, I, of cour, imposible to give a pattern for every type oF case that is made. But with the meny insiructiors end sssembly techniques prawnted within these page, they can be adaptod to conform to your ovin special projects, New Carving Desin Partems ara not given in this book a spice wat not valiabl, We have used existing patton {rom other publications to ilustrate how thoy can be aplied. A bifold or aot design doce not novosariy have to bo retried co hlifods or belts. Where applicable, the pater soure s given with aech project To evoid continually repeating ourselves end using valuable space, we will Fefer you to various books where previous instructions are gwen, Most of ‘the sewing techniques. are fully illustrated In “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather". non sewing is required, it will be siven with the project, where epplicabie, within shese pages. Volume ONE, “The Art of Making Leather Casse”, covers most of the basic: techniques for containing straps, forming loops, installing rings, dos, shields, buckles, billets, etc. in great dotall. Setting srape and rivets is lf well covered. fddtona instructions and nw echniaues are shown in this book BURNISHING EDGES: In this book (Volume TWO) we indicate many the instructions where it suggests: ""SURNISH EDGE". Again, to save precious space andi avoid duplication, refer to Volume ONE. page. 12. . for instructions on how to burnish the edges. The. weight {thickness in'oz| of lether is also explained on page 3 of Volume ONE. Most of tho instructional sketchas in this book do not show the carved Panels. It should go without saying that all saving ‘and stamping should bbe done before beginning assembly. Also, . if you have advanced to this stage of leathercraft, you should know that all leather (at folds) should bbe moistened before bending, It you with to sssamble your cases with buckstitehing.. "How to Buck: Stith ey atuble book fo haven you ibvary of lsthercrats knowledge it contine many sxamples (rah & wrong and mathode of buckatitshiny projets sich ‘ook Feavired, how io use im, and Ann Stohiman’s si Sching Now. ; ets advance into new adventures with “The Art of Making Leather Gases", "VOLUME THO! a ala vane "|At Stohimnan MAKING LEATHER HANDLES HANDLES can be made in a variety of longths, styles, sizes, and from a large selection of assorted leathers and ‘ther materials 07 a combination of tham, We will give you a selection of patterns from the most simple strap fo more complox methods of construction, Some projects require sturdiar handles than others, Some will be of 8 more refined appearance, and be suitable for light oases, handbegs, ete. Our selection is by no means 25 this would make 2 book in itelt. However, with our presentation of patterns (fit handle to any leather ease you may desire to make. ‘nd styles, you should be ‘The langth of the handle for your case should ba determined by the most ‘comfortable postion in whieh you want to carry f. You ean shorten or lengthen them. at desired. To” determine tho length, hold the case (or object of 22) in a comfortable position, and have fiend meesure the distance. ‘The size of handles, t00, plays an important part inthe comfort of your hand. Most luggage and briefease handles are ofa standard uniform size that wil ft most people. A litle discomfort wil generally go unnoticed, or cepted, ‘thinking nothing can be done about it anyway. However, when making your own handles, you can add to the Tenge it you have large hends end can sleo widen them By adding fillers to make cher fuller, as desired. Conversly, ‘they can de shortened and/or made thinner forthe delicate or smaller hands. “The patterns we present are for the average sizs hands. You can mak them longer, shorter, wider, oF Simply altering the pattorn (in or out) from the canter area, No difficulty should be encountered in d You tay have to mace up 2 handle first, to devermine which way to alter the pattem, if any. The type and weights Of leathers will be suggested on the patterns. These, too, can be changed if you wish the handle to be heavier and sifer or lighter and more fx ble. Use your own judgment for your requirements ‘Shown bolow are the most simple forms of handles and some of the hardware used in attaching them to cases, ‘These handles are made of single thickness leather and the hardware riveted or sewn to secure. For more stiffness, ‘he leathar oan simply be cut from heavier stock, or double thickness used and sewn together at the edges. NO [Beans are ‘ivan a these handles should ene made from viewing the sketches, Make them f0 any width OF METAL tanDwane ~y 2 Pe nee carkfilose) ‘QEBY — PUERLE EnaHED ee HANDLE Ne (=D This simple handle is handy ‘or small cases such at: first-aid, twiletry, ete, The handle will ay flat for storage or easier packing ‘while traveling, Handle shown made of 11/12 oz. skirting Toather, If you do net have this weight, use two pieces of 5/6 leather and glue and sow them together all around the outer edges. en Bunwisw Does AeTUAL Size : 1/2 PATTERN _ >! Whe ox. Couns SEW TOGETHER, (© USING DOUBLE LEATHER | eee, This type of handle is usually attached with a metal loop and.conter post (above) ‘and riveted to the case. If ths hardware not available, we can achieve the results with leather loops, copper rivets and burrs. Begin the instructions below and on the following page. SA Fad SORES EET EEE Ne We aa icnary uo Ler cowie La] propre wo tenth oops and punch 1 holo ihe cath a tp So Voki BN the At of Haking oat” Cast? Sean 8. ior making ener oops ‘concn HANDLE No.2 eer ee [se] —> V2 PATTERN =? W/ie e. Cownit PEP BB sifion oa HANDLE a HANDLE No.2 - Continued _ BEkR* Place on riveting surface and “set” the burr next to the slot, as shown. DO NOT SET TIGHT! Handle should move freely in the slot back and forth on the rivet. Repeat riveting loop on other end. into hole in loop. Place slot of {re potion of he oan ot ang ae tar in the cate are determined by slicing the loape 0 the inside of the slots, shown above. aver “A Aftar punching slots project over and and vet holes in ‘second Burr snug proper position, push to leather inside the case. Toop. ends and’ rivet Do not aet so tight at to through hole in cate, b ‘8 indieatad ot lft. Turn project over. If you have an old setter, lightly joe” the rivet head, exere aio fiver oes _/ NOTE: Loop ends can be slued down inside case. No sewing is required, as the M oase rivets go through the case securing the assembly. HANDLE No. 2-A This is a modification of handle No. 2. The sleeves the (at ends) "take te place of the handle a bit, and skive some thickness off the very ends, as suggested below. [acruat size | -——1%' ~ Page tit mane 4 weave TaicKeR an Form the sleov of "The Art of Making Volume ONE. eine, Adjustable ~ HANDLE No.3 { { [ery *) Gut two straps from 617 02, cowhide about hoes in EXAMPLE | | p sdopending ‘on the buckles ured, Burnith the edgpe ‘This handle is acapted for hand and shoulder fength adjustment, as well as positions in between, It adjusts from about 23” to 40". (as Ie is shown here with two methods of con fares struction, featuring two styles of loops and me oe buckles. Straps can be eur shorter or longer pd +) ta fit your requirements, position “The nds (for attaching to caso or bag) are secured with “omamental siver_concho ] Chigago screws, for easy attachment or re ‘moval. Follow the instructions slow for ‘making these hand! G <8 — (ERAMELE ais he E MPLE A) BAR Bucs ~K, = Round ends of both straps and bumish ~~ — doe. Fold ends shown, Intl buco s fon onestrap; metal loop on the other oy Se Assemble straps as shown above. Place buckle tongue in desired adjustment hole and pull strap down snug, See photo, ENS Segbe 8B Erbe “oe genera, LEXAMPLE B] ake two tex S To ska from 4/5 02, cowhide. Sew one Sgr, tach strap. NOTE! One loop up: on Sort Sop "Tho. Art of Hand Sewing gp. Lather” for sewing straps and looas, paces See" | Broa Borne Fry —=3 Begin assembly by installing conway buckle ss shown “above.” Now assemble straps. at shown below, Adjust to desired hole: pull mug. Conway buckle does not move from its location an the First strap. See photo, pavermarione Siow ain aeans ores uF 5 HANDLE No. 4 Thie ie 2 light to medium duty hand of one piece contruction, Walsa makes 4 vary nice for fandge though te. ength ‘must be Increased to about 16” or 18" between fod Bye a cownbe ACTUAL, ‘SRE hie pattom meskes «com pletee_herdle’ about 3/4" (wide To narrow the pat term 0" 2'sm rst, “A snaps cin be ued on the tions inthe lower right Sap an by et on hand corner. me Se creer usa te ee Bee Sra rinmus | eublane ives OO aa Ceara | parE acy ee, Gut out the hare pattern) and gouge a sewing channel on the nly, Moisten ends, install nardware, and clue down, 8s above. Skive arees shown on the pattern, Burnish edges (see ide ‘he short side SKIVED EDGE 7 MOISTEN LEATHER cna ro ln 2] PATTERNS “Moisten the leather along the fold ine. Apply glue to the flesh side, Allow to “set” I] Sane KGa NATL Ld % thon fold the unburnished edge over and adhere “almest” to the opposite fold _-/ Tine: Itshould be set back about 1/16”. Tap flat with hammer. As stwne conmnes oz ‘Aprly iment to. the ACTUAL —- Canter tine of te folded was | “eee Side, andto flesh side of the short sido, Fold avar tighrly and adhere, The fect wih et) Tum apr vt mela seee (Canseco ea oo LR, cetacean [Sj Hy NOTE: ‘When making patos wider fof narrower. sahrays make fadjestments trom the center Tine of the original pattor! BD pce in sitcing tore San hes tk Shae ieee HANDLE No. 5 uty handle, The tops ‘made of natural cowhide ‘The underside is made of soft garment type leather Of any desired color to ‘match clothing, handbage, fete. Thie, pattern makes about a" wide handle For handbags or other casoe "requiring" longer handles, simply extend the J pattern batureon fold Ce 1 TED ue semester an ine mpd on oe le ere asr sie See ee eee as MSCS nc Abita NUS feats a pag EP ani 8 oh Ree Bi A sewne TOP STRAP. note the ite edye up to the center line fends taper in slightly. Tap with hammer to adhere. 7/8 02. COWMDE k= Ya PATTERN [3] snatat hardware, Fok! ends in 8 poition on pattern) and jan doen A sew wien sewing channel on both sides. Glue on top of the {garment leather (shove). Keep piece centered, and the fees aligned. Tap with hammer, uniform. ED [revuac [| _—s \"sze" | cee a eDse # Buns Stoes AND Enos oF me Piece Cer il sei & gh 8 | tii ft tel | aaa re] Rig. ft eer Bie] | gid) | ii i bon Tes | these | Prapars th top sap Burn sits and onds. Gouge 2 [EL tae in attching hare, sow throu Sinan Sie HANDLE No. 6 This is s ruggedly built hane of simple. construction. Te is Sesigned to bulla co dees oF rings on the ease. The pattern presented is for” buckles. Burnish all edges. shown in heavy lines on the patterns, netuaL| sxwe ro 4 See) / Reggae CCut the straps. Skive, punch slots and holes, burnish edges, gouge sewing channels (see patterns) Moisten the folds of the bucklastraps, Insta bickles, Fold around bucklas and cement ‘the ends co the strap, as at lef. NS 38 Wow cement the buckle strap to the billet trap ft me ‘hould be centered with an scual amount of lt 2 82 ‘tending bevond each Buckle [above Keep the FH iss ‘oe signed a | |) es Ey 53 Pall back buckle tongue and 2 SE | asa" biter end trough buckle Ls (right). This gets the buckle out of the way for seming. zi “wheel” the sening channels and’ sew ‘through all straps, Edge and burnish tho rest of the strap betweun the buckles Vil Vil 4-4 Nanilce ovhnned BUCKLE ae BatK ot 0 ie aehle STRAP ‘SP + This handle can be stiffened considerably by adding enother thick ECIAL NOTE 16 of lothor betwoan tho buckle and Billet straps, Skive both ands. Cement all pert together before sawing.