Textile and Apparel Industry textIle and apparel: Innovate, develop and sustaIn Industry MeetIng for sustaInabIlIty Cni – naTional ConFederaTion oF induSTrY – BraZil Robson Braga de Andrade President Board oF eduCaTion and TeCHnoloGY – directory Rafael Lucchesi Esmeraldo Ramacciotti Director of Education and Technology BraZilian TexTile and apparel induSTrY aSSoCiaTion – aBiT Aguinaldo Diniz Filho President Fernando Valente Pimentel Superintendent Renato Leme Superintendent of Administration and Finance deparTMenT oF Trade – aBiT Domingos Mosca Consultant Renato Jardim Manager deparTMenT oF inFraSTruCTure and TeCHnoloGY – aBiT Sylvio Tobias Napoli Junior Manager deparTMenT CoMMuniCaTion – aBiT Ligia Santos Manager TexTile and apparel: innovaTe, develop and SuSTain brASíliA 2012 © 2012. Cni – national Confederation of industry Any part of this publication may be reproduced and the source cited. C748t National Confederation of industry. brazilian Textile and Apparel industry Association. Textile and Apparel: innovate, Develop and Sustain / National Confederation of industry brazilian Textile and Apparel industry Association. – brasília: CNi / AbiT, 2012. 75 p. (rio+20 Sectorial fascicle) 1. Sustainability 2. United Nations Conference on Sustainable Development i. Title ii. Series CDU: 502.14 (063) Cni aBiT National Confederation of industry brazilian Textile and Apparel industry Association Headquarters Headquarters Setor bancário Norte rua Marquês de itu, 968 Quadra 1 – bloco C 01223-000 – São Paulo – SP brasil Edifício roberto Simonsen Phone: (11) 3823.6100 70040-903 – brasília – DF Fax: (11) 3823.6122 Phone: (61) 3317- 9000 [email protected] Fax: (61) 3317- 9994 www.cni.org.br liST oF FigUrES box 1. Summary of potential environmental impacts ..........................................54 box 2. Environmental indicators for the textile sector ..........................................55 box 3. Summary of P+l opportunities in the textile sector .................................56 box 4. Seven vectors of future importance ..........................................................61 box 5. infrastructure and education for innovation ..............................................62 Chart 1. Companies of the textile sector in 2010 ...................................................19 Chart 2. Jobs of the textile sector in 2010 ..............................................................19 Chart 3. Production of the textile sector in 2010 .....................................................19 Chart 4. Average number of job per company of the textile chain in 2010 ...........20 Chart 5. Average production per company, in metric tones, in 2010 .....................20 Chart 6. Accumulated production of the textile and apparel sector (US$ bi) ........20 Chart 7. Production of each segment, in 1,000 MT ................................................21 Chart 8. Direct jobs in the textile and apparel sector (in thousand) .......................22 Chart 9. international sales of textile and apparel sectors (in US$ bi) ...................25 Chart 10. Size of textile companies ..........................................................................25 Chart 11. Consumption of textile items per capita (kg)/year ....................................26 Figure 1. relation between the main actors of the sector .......................................18 Figure 2. Selective waste collection in the district of bom retiro – São Paulo ........30 Figure 3. Selective waste collection in the district of bom retiro – São Paulo ........30 Figure 4. Qualitative evaluation of the impact of textile fibers on the environment .31 Figure 5a. Cotton .......................................................................................................32 Figure 5b. Wool ..........................................................................................................32 Figure 5c. Viscose ......................................................................................................32 Figure 5d. bamboo Viscose .......................................................................................33 Figure 5e. lyocell – Tencel .........................................................................................33 Figure 5f. Polyamide (Nylon) .....................................................................................33 Figure 5g. Polyester ....................................................................................................34 Table 1. Production and employment in 2010 ........................................................21 Table 2. Exportation of the sector and participation in the total exportation ..........22 Table 3. importations of the sector and participation in the total amount imported by brazil .....................................................23 Table 4. World production of the textile segment (MT) in 2009 ..............................23 Table 5. World production of the apparel segment (MT) in 2009 ...........................24 Table 6. Technical notifications – United States .....................................................39 Table 7. Technical notifications – Argentina ............................................................39 Table 8. Companies that implemented innovation, by education level – brazil – 2008 ...........................................................46 Table 9. Costs incurred with innovative activities ...................................................46 Table 10. Company in charge of product and/or process development in the companies that implemented innovations – brazil (2006-2008) .............46 Table 11. Companies that implemented innovations, by impact importance level .47 SUMMAry CNi presentation Sectorial presentation 1 introduction .............................................................................................................13 1.1 About AbiT ....................................................................................................13 1.2 objectives of this document .........................................................................14 2 Socioeconomic and environmental characterization of the sector ........................17 2.1 Socioeconomic characterization ...................................................................17 2.1.1 Description of the production chain .................................................17 2.1.2 Domestic production of the sector ...................................................20 2.1.3 growth of sector production ............................................................21 2.1.4 Participation of the sector in the brazilian industry ..........................21 2.1.5 Number of jobs generated by the sector .........................................22 2.1.6 Exportation of the sector and articipation in the total exportation....22 2.1.7 importation of the sector and participation in the total importation .23 2.1.8 Participation of brazil in world production of the sector ...................23 2.1.9 Size of companies in operation in the brazilian sector ....................25 2.1.10 Market dimension .............................................................................25 2.2 Socio-environmental characterization ...........................................................26 3 Economic and socio-environmental regulations that affect the sector ..................37 3.1 Main international agreements and regulatory aspects related to the sector: characterization of the international regulatory scenario for the sector ........37 3.2 Main national (compulsory and voluntary) normative instruments that effect in the main external markets of the sector (consumer requirements, certificate requirements, etc.) with impacts on the sector ............................40 3.3 Main regulatory aspects (in legislation) and (compulsory or voluntary) normative instruments that impact the sector in brazil .................................40 4 Corporate practices for sustainable development (1992 – 2011) ..........................43 4.1 Main technological and management transformations/innovations incorporated into the production of the sector .............................................43 4.2 initiatives of information disclosure and transparency regarding the socio-environmental performance of the sector ....................48 4.3 initiatives of certification and self-regulation developed by the sector .........51 4.4 initiatives coordinated by the trade association/institution ...........................53 5 Challenges and opportunities for the sector on the way towards sustainability ....59 6 Final considerations ................................................................................................65 references ...................................................................................................................69 CNi PrESENTATioN The diversity of the national industry and the significant availability of natural resources reveal excellent opportunities for the sustainable development of brazil, combining economic growth, social inclusion and environmental conservation. The materializa- tion of concerns related to sustainability in the strategic agenda of enterprises and governments is a reality. Apart from isolated cases of success, the consequences of this attitude are felt in entire sectors of the economy. Further advances are still needed, but the path has already been identified and going back is impossible. After coordinating an unprecedented critical thinking process on sustainability with 16 industry associations, the National industry Confederation (CNi) delivers to the brazil- ian society a wide range of information on progress, challenges and opportunities yet to come. The results presented here may not portray the significance of the discussion process experienced by the industry in preparing these documents. Developments on the process will be beyond the rio +20 Conference, and are definitely incorporated on the daily lives of companies. The subject of sustainability is inserted differently in each of the industrial sectors. How- ever, some elements are common to all. The continuous pursuit for efficiency in use of resources and the need to increase industrial competitiveness are on the agenda of all the sectors. Encouraging innovation and scientific and technological development is strategic on the transition to more sustainable patterns of production. Strategies to intensify actions coordinated internally in the industrial sectors and with governments and civil society organizations are no less important. The dissemination of sustainable practices by means of the supply chain and incentives for companies to undertake the role of integrated management of the territories are powerful tools. The sectorial volumes developed by industry associations are valuable contributions to addressing subjects such as sustainability and competitiveness of domestic industry. one of the most representative results of this process will certainly be the strengthen- ing of structured programs of action with a focus on promoting sustainability in the production. These initiatives will act as raw materials so that the industries involved and CNi are able to systematically publish documents presenting the national industry´s developments towards the goals of sustainable production. The documents presented here are intended to be a valuable contribution to enhance the debate on sustainability. Each of the sectorial associations is to be congratulated for their efforts. robson Braga de andrade President of the National Confederation of industry – brazil