S E! E INSPIRING IDEAS WITH NEEDLE AND THREAD D D I I U S G YYOOUURR N O I T W - NNOO..11 O H EMBROIDERY MAGAZINE Colour Pop! PUT ON THE GLITZ WITH GOLDWORK E n j o y ! • CLASSIC CREWELWORK TECHNIQUES CREATE A DREAMY ‘CATNAP’ EYE MASK • FREE-MOTION EMBROIDERY IN 3D MAKE A MAGNIFICENT MAGNOLIA • A COLOUR TWIST ON BLACKWORK START OUR BOLD & BRIGHT CLOCK PLUS! SECRETS OF THE CORONATION ROBE • CAVE ART IDEAS HAND-DYED CUSHION • ADD EMBROIDERY TO A TOP ff A Royal A air There’s cause for celebration across the UK this Magazine established 1999 summer, as parties, events and exhibitions take place ISSN 1467-6648 Stitch magazine is published 6 times a year. to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee! One such exhibition takes place at Windsor Castle from 7th July to 26th September 2022; Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Coronation. Showcasing Her Majesty Branding and content © Warners Group The Queen’s Coronation Dress, designed by Publications plc, 2022. The name Stitch® is a registered trademark of Warners Group Sir Norman Hartnell, and her Coronation Robe by 021 PWB+u4oab4url nri(nc0eae)r1ts, i7 LoG7inn8rsoc 3uop9lplnc1 0.sP Ah0uil0brl erlii,c gPahEtti1os0 nr e9ss PpeHlrcv,e Wd.est Street, Evthideaewt &f oi nRr mapve earnsnos icnnr totehfgte,r atehlx peq auerixts hiotiefb bietoimotnhb ragolaliodrmwersee ndyto sdu.e ttaoi ls ection Trust Elizabeth II 2 sMEtdiaticnthoaergd: iiLntougrc@ yEw dEivataronnres:r Ssgalrloyu Spti.rcloin.ugk SDmirreeT Neshtsoei.n r HmQge uaw weniet aHhns a hhsreutenrmr, sewemlll hfco errneereqea tduseh ei nhset ee1ar9ds Ck5 te2ohd rato ott nh aaa tti on Credit: Royal Coller Majesty Queen the dress be a similar line to her wedding © H Digital Content Manager: Anna Lewin dress (which he also designed) and be [email protected] made from white satin. After several Design: Lucille Randall conversations and revisions he created a design featuring the three Photography: Simon Lees emblems of Scotland, Ireland and Wales Advertising Manager: Jayne Notley and the combined flowers of the Commonwealth +44 (0)1778 391189 [email protected] countries worked into in a floral garland,. The completed dress is a sight to behold – with the embroideries arranged in three scalloped, graduated tiers bordered with Advertisement Copy: Sue Ward alternating lines of gold bugle beads, diamantés and pearls. +44 (0)1778 392405 [email protected] The Queen’s magnificent Coronation Robe has a fascinating story all of its own – turn to page 24 to find out how The Royal School of Needlework succeeded in working on a stunning Accounts: [email protected] goldwork design in secret, with just 12 embroiderers assigned to the project. You will also find full details of the exhibition at Windsor and how to book to see it. Digital & E-commerce Marketing Executive: It’s my turn to celebrate now, as this issue marks my first as Editor of Stitch. I’m thrilled to Emily Warner be taking on this role – it’s such a privilege to be sharing with you the work of our amazing Marketing Executive: Emmalee Higgins contributors. I love the fact that their designs and tutorials are guaranteed to spark fresh bursts [email protected] of creativity in you all! Do email me at [email protected] with photos of your Publisher: Lucie Dawson completed pieces – this is your magazine and I’d love to hear from you [email protected] about what you enjoy stitching and reading about the most. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. While Enjoy a summer of stitching! every care is taken to ensure that the content of the magazine is accurate, neither the editor nor publisher assumes responsibility for any omissions or errors. The editor reserves the right to edit copy. All material published remains the copyright of the publisher. To read more about how you can navigate this tricky area, visit our website: hobbies-and-crafts.co.uk/information/copyright For any further queries relating to copyright, contact [email protected] and FEELING LUCKY? Join us: state your query is related to Stitch. Find details of this issue’s competitions at: facebook.com/stitchmag While reasonable care is taken when accepting bit.ly/stitch-win advertisements, the publisher cannot accept The closing date is Thursday 2 August 2022. Prizes, gifts, or give-aways offered in competitions responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions. No warranty is implied in respect of might be substituted with ones of similar value. Follow us: Unless otherwise stated, all competitions, free any product mentioned herewith. 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Full terms Visit us: Nikki Munton +44 (0)1778 391171 and conditions are available on our website at [email protected] warnersgroup.co.uk/competition-terms/ www.stitchmag.co.uk Printed by Warners Midlands plc FOR ALL SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES UK +44 (0)1778 392088 bit.ly/subscribetostitch [email protected] 3 IIInnnsssiiidddeee yyyooouuurrr iiissssssuuueee......... 7 29 34 Projects COVER 7 COLOUR POP! Take your goldwork skills to the next level with STAR! Disco Dave, Loetitia Gibier’s colourful chameleon! From beautiful cutwork and chipping, to padding and Or Nue – your stitches will lead to a dazzling result. 15 FOREVER BLOOMING Follow Claire Muir’s free-motion embroidery tutorial to create a stunning three-dimensional magnolia. Stitch up a whole vase of magnolia blooms or use to create a striking wedding fascinator. 50 ANCESTRAL ART Be inspired by the prehistoric past! Jay Hooper has drawn from 21 ALLIUM ELEGANCE ancient cave art as inspiration for her original wall hangings which Learn how to transform a plain garment into something special, combine painting and embroidery stitches to great eff ect. with Jill Kipnis’ guide to stitching allium seed head motifs onto a top. Her design includes French knots and beads for extra texture. Inspiration 29 CATNAP DREAMS 24 FIT FOR A QUEEN Get to grips with traditional crewelwork techniques to create an eye As we celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, read the story mask, complete with sweet cat design. Alex Law takes you through behind the Royal School Of Needlework’s rich embroidery used to the steps, with a myriad of stitches to practise along the way. adorn the Queen’s Robe of Estate, ready for her coronation in 1953. 34 THREADS OF TIME 38 COLOURING THE LINES Burst out of your blackwork rut and try a modern take, with Debbie Debbie Harding and Zoe Acketts share with us details of their Harding’s colour wheel clock. Debbie shows how to complete your collaboration behind this month’s colourful blackwork clock, blackwork stitches and mount your work as a clock for your home. their respective creative processes and plans for the future. 41 SHRIVEL UP & DYE 48 ALL CHANGE Create a unique statement piece for your living room. Mary We caught up with All Threaded Together as they showcase some McIntosh shows how to shrivel fabric, dye it and produce a richly of the highlights of their current exhibition. ‘Changes’ was in part coloured cushion decorated with elements of hand embroidery. inspired by the Charles Rennie MacIntosh interiors at 78 Derngate. 44 www.stitchmag.co.uk ISSUE 137 JUNE/JULY 2022 38 15 41 21 NEVER MISS AN ISSUE! Let the stitching continue and save money at the SEE same time! Check out the benefi ts of subscribing. PAGE 47 MORE TO EXPLORE ONLINE Regulars TURN TO Visit our website for even more PAGE 6 ssttiittcchhiinngg iinnssppiirraattiioonn!! 20 WHAT’S ON AU5M5Th5 4Kase ekfNSreeleeTa E tcathIXtuTrieeorTC i mnn mIH gSooo fSesBr tmueU Oo psEbfcOt rieootKcxmihdcSlieiTunnrsggOyi vetaRervneE eddani tststecs cxo aotuinmlnedt i asne rgxath.n uidbp i ftirineo eno sup ora csntreaoxgstes i !st hsuee ! IHNOSIW-DTEO! JGUUNICED/EJSULY 2o022 I | N ££l55..S5500oP IRuINHIGONFNBNBFNNNNNNNNNNNBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBNBNBNBNNBNBNBNBBBNBNNNBNBNBNNNBNNBNNNBNBNBNNNBNBNBBBNBrSWEE I-BBIRRTDDUUOAEA E!RRGeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeYYaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaA//UMMIAASDaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaRRECC StttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttWHH 22uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu00Iuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu2222T I| H N££rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr66ttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt.. 55SN00yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaPEIESRRT DElllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllIITiTi-T NL BCDOESSGHE CO HIAE NTMIIONGDB mmYNWEhh ROMDE/-SJAITUOA NOTYYRDUNNJ SEAii HOERMGM OOY!eeW UB2nnRAOO0IRUUG2DEO1I A TE|IA RRZ D£S..tteeHI6DE11N.5IR0SEoo SYN!!UIENE 13E7SDPILREI NAGN DINEEDYYYMMMM TAAEBBOOOHRGRGOAOOAAUUURSZZIIDDIII S.ENNWEERRRS1URRAEEEYY I1D3T5H NEEDLE AENNMMNABYYDGROOAIOS OOSZTIUIDEHNUU ..E13E11R4RYRREAD Take a peek at some of the beautiful projects we have in store. Pop! ?????????????????????????? On sale Thursday 28 July 2022. PGGULOTITL OZDN WW TOIHTRHEK 56 TEMPLATES All the templates and guides that you will need to complete this aNdde dw i smwpaeanyrsski loteon & i6Uosr2ss ueg S eetT’hts iItpsoT rh oCgajrHenipcd stGys w .UgiuIthDid Enee two rsetfitrcehshe sy.our memory, hone your technique PLUFaSbul!ousPP 3DLLS flE?? UUoH??Cw????eAR??SS??rs????NE!????!! T??D??P????S-???? D??LAAFFO????Y??UU?? UF??SS??E NN????LLTDS????M OO??H?? FFaC??!??AAsWWE????tU??e BB??r??C--S?? ??RRaFSS?O?AH??pUII??TT??p RICC?l???SiNIIOq????O T LTu??CC Né??FNO CCdHHA eAW•HHtBAAa TAEiE-RlIII!DSDDNNOITCD SSNJJI ?? TEOCO •??R??M?? CEHUUOCC????•H????B A•RREEB C????C n•REF I??NLLNE??ML RN??A RO?D?jSEE A??AEAA•?? ETS??IBB CSAo ??KLLJAE??DC S?T?ROR•??EO- RE?I?A•??yE M AALCTCC???A?UR VOAA???TAT? O EE!YOC??RM?E? U EET??LLD ??TTRU NT??AAR ??EEIREC?C?EREO?GO?A RBB??EWT ??XXHH??NBNLAT RR??W??ATTOE I?II ?M?? AA•EFI NNL????IIILT DITTYM??S?LWL?ACDEE??O TEEEEE‘BE? ? CSOS&TA P NROCCNNEAE RESBOTTN HHKUUXNRN IN M DIIITBTTTEEGANNEALIECCWWPHLEREAG9C’??RRT EYSSC??NE H 7??YYAA •?? 7 EEYKCOINN????1L ••EEENCCB E4W????LINNTTL UI•6AA??AGA L??O KKQMI7MMH H3??O??EEEAA THRRGG??CEEDU6n??EEAXAAWWCR??6CT??KRROO E??4SKKTKPKP?? R??0 KSURREERj??EE8YY??WA??1 ??GGRRPAoAAEE900????OC55 FF EE// ? ??TA?3AS0077ZZEE55??OROK??777PH//RyR22EECC????1100KEAUU??22RRE44??TT22>?? 66RR ?S ?SOOM ! ??N7700WW??K 99??WW--::A??66I55??WWL229G66II????GAAENN44????H77AA99ILL????77TT99CSST??11LL99EE?44?TT-- 66SRRHHEE77K33 WWAA666WW44Y666NNA444A>RR999GGRR999EEG999IMIMAAeNNtdTT EEicGGmHHRrR33eea44nts>iivoen with 0011__FFrroonntt CCoovveerr__sstt113377..iinndddd 11 www.stitchmag.co.uk 55 CONTINUE TO DELVE INTO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF EMBROIDERY OVER ON THE WEBSITE, INCLUDING: • Inspiration • Projects • Advice • Interviews • Techniques Please visit: bit.ly/STCHBLOG Project Colour Pop! FIND TEMPLATES FOR THIS PROJECT ON PAGE 56 You’ll be putting on the glitz with our colourful chameleon, Disco Dave! Bring him to life with couching, goldwork and cutting stitches BY LOËTITIA GIBIER www.stitchmag.co.uk 7 Project Chameleons are the most fascinating 1 2 creatures. The fact they can change colours is simply a thing of wonder and I wanted to design one that was truly over the top. 3 4 5 6 YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • Threads: • Embroidery hoops: • Fabric: - Gutermann Sew all: 000 – Black and 392 - 8in - Background fabric: Moda Grunge, Purple, 1 reel of each - 6in Snow white, 25cm x 25cm - 6-ply metallic twist – Black • Freezer paper - Calico, 25cm x 25cm (EMC139), 1m • Iron and ironing surface - Felt, Purple, 21 x 30cm • Stranded cotton: • Small block of beeswax • Organza: - Madeira: 1103, 2710, 612 • Optional: - 25cm x 25cm of these colours: Lavender, - Presencia: 4636, 0007 - Pair of curved embroidery Lime green and Baby blue, x 2 of each - DMC: 502, 3811, 554 scissors, a mellor and/or a pair of - 25cm x 25cm, White, x 1 • Soft cotton padding fi ne tweezers, to manipulate the • Goldwork wires • Sirdar Cotton DK yarn, Snuggly, wires and push them into place (The code in brackets refer to the codes shade 756, 7m - Painted 8in hoop for framing on my website, www.korrylittleshop.co.uk) • Other items: - Smooth purl – Light green (EM41), 1.5m - Felt ball, Purple, diameter 1cm STITCHES & TECHNIQUES - Smooth purl – Pale turquoise - Round bead, Black, diameter 5mm Couching – Pearl purl, twists, plate and (EM25), 1.5m other threads; Or Nue, Chipping, both - Smooth purl – Sea blue (EZ32), 50cm EQUIPMENT traditional and ‘wiggly’ chipping; Cut Work - Rough purl – Baby pink (EM47), 50cm • Needles: and Padding, both soft cotton and felt. - Rough purl – Green (EM162), 1.5m - Pack of size 10 embroidery needles - Rough purl – Purple (CP001), 1.5m (easier to have one for each of the See Stitch Guide for full stitch formations. - Rough purl – Lilac (CP029V), 1m stranded cottons) - Bright check – Light green (EM39 or - Large needle for plunging Finished stitched area: 16 x 19cm EM39R), 1.5m • Scissors: - Pearl purl, 1mm, Black (EM3), 3.5m - Goldwork with serrated blade Two material packs (one containing all - Plate – Lilac (EM156), 4m - Embroidery the fabrics and the other all wires and - Twist – Elphin Green (BJ072), 4m • Fine felt tip pen (I use Stabilo Write-4-all, threads) can be purchased from: - Twist – Monet (BJ073), 2m fi ne nib, Black) www.korrylittleshop.co.uk - Twist – Ice Blue (BJ074), 4m • PVA glue PREPARATION the fi neliner pen. Use a lightbox or a window on one of the two pieces of coloured Always use one strand of stranded cotton if needed. 1 organza. Trace two full leaves per colour. or one length of Gutermann Sew All thread. Add the partial leaf to the lilac organza. Always wax the Gutermann Sew All thread 2 Layer the background fabric on top of when working with wires by running it a the calico and place both in the 8in hoop. 4 Working each organza colour at a time, couple of times through the beeswax. Make sure it is absolutely drum tight as it is layer the piece with the leaf shape on top essential for the heavy stitching. of the second piece of the same colour and 1 Place the background fabric on top of the place in the small hoop. Make sure it is drum background design template and trace using 3 Using the fi neliner, trace the leaf template tight, so the organza does not tear. 8 www.stitchmag.co.uk Project 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 5 Couch a length of black pearl purl on Don’t hesitate to overlap them. Pay attention IMPORTANT! For the chameleon legs, the outline of the leaves using waxed black to the placement of the partial leaf, you I will refer to the two legs further back as Gutermann Sew All. There is no need to need enough space between the outline back and front left legs and the two legs leave a tail, you can cut the pearl purl fl ush of the chameleon and the leaf for his spiky on top as back and front right legs. to the surface. 2 ‘mohawk’ but not too much so you can hide the ends under the plate you will be TOP TIP! For felt appliqué – always 6 Select a twist and couch on the inside stitching later. 6 come from the background and into the of the pearl purl with one strand of any felt piece or it may shred the edge. Use stranded colour. Mix and match with each 12 Start by stitching the partial leaf, use black stab stitches – start with four stitches; leaf for added interest. Leave about a 1in Gutermann thread and attach the leaf by North, South, East West, to make sure tail at the start and fi nish – it will be used to going over the pearl purl as if couching it the felt stays in place, then fi ll in plunge to the back when you fi x the leaves again. You only need a few stitches. Use the between every millimetre or so. Use on the background. 3 large needle to plunge the end of the twists the Gutermann Sew All thread to stitch to the back. 7 the felt to the background. Work from 7 When all leaves are stitched, apply a little the smallest piece to the largest. PVA glue on the back, just on the outline. 13 Attach the other leaves the same way – Try not to put PVA glue on the inside of the start by plunging the end of the twists, then 15 Start with stitching the pieces of felt for leaves, but make sure that your outline is you can decide to stitch them fl at or give the two left legs, back and front, directly well covered. them some extra shape and texture by using onto the background fabric. 9 just a few stitches. 8 8 Leave to dry for 12-24 hours and then cut 16 Use the fi neliner pen to plan the areas off the organza very close to the outline. 14 Next, trace the felt pattern template on of colour, this will help you identify which the freezer paper, and then iron onto the colour to use as you work.10 TOP TIP! The PVA glue makes sure felt. Only cut the pieces and remove the that your leaf does not fall apart even freezer paper when you are ready to stitch 17 For the legs, use the Ice blue twist (the if you cut a stitch by mistake, and them down. matching couching thread is DMC 3811). ➜ makes sure the organza does not fray. I use a pair of curved embroidery scissors and use the curve blade to HOW-TO WORK WITH PEARL PURL cut as close as possible. •• AAllwwaayyss uussee GGüütteerrmmaannnn SSeeww AAllll thread to slip between the coils making 9 Repeat with the other two colours of thread or similar quality thread. it invisible. organza. Mix and match the twists and the colour of the stranded cotton. 4 • Wax the thread by running it a few times • When couching, you should hear a through beeswax. slight pop when the thread settles in 10 On the background fabric, stitch the the coils. branch by couching a length of black • Cut the desired length of pearl purl by pearl purl and waxed black Gutermann roughly measuring around the shape. • If your thread sits on top without slipping thread. Make sure to stop and start for the inside the coils, the stitch is not at the chameleon outline. 5 • Hold each end and pull gently to open correct angle and may kink the wire. So, the coil. Stretching allows the couching come back out and try again. 11 Arrange the leaves on the background. www.stitchmag.co.uk 9 Project 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 Place the colour as you like, use the darker Madeira 1103 and DMC 502. a couple of couching stitches inside the shades for the two left legs: Madeira 2710 outline and repeat for each spike back and near the top of the legs to create a shadow, 18 Start near the top of the legs – leave a forth. 14 tail at the start and fi nish. There is no need to plunge them, they will be covered in 23 Modify the angle of each spike to follow HOW-TO STITCH USING OR NUE future steps unless you do a partial row. 11 the shape of the back. I marked the fabric slightly with a pencil to make sure I was TThhee lleeggss aanndd tthhee hheeaadd wwiillll bbee ssttiittcchheedd 19 I tend to couch the twist fi rst with the turning the angles correctly. 15 16 using Or Nue. This technique consists of matching couching thread to ‘set’ the row couching a twist using a combination of and then come back and fi ll the coloured TOP TIP! Do not go too far in the matching and contrasting threads to make splotches with the other couching threads. outline as it will cause problems later the pattern appear on top by changing the Don’t hesitate to do partial rows to fi ll in the on. Be fi rm but gentle, the plate is quite colour of the couching thread. shape nicely. 12 fragile and can mark easily. The mellor can help manipulate the plate or lift it • In this piece, we will couch one length of 20 Don’t forget to give claws – the felt slightly in later stages when you will twist at a time, not as a pair. padding is rounded but go off the padding be stitching on top. Never try to stitch slightly and create a little point to through the plate as it will damage • I will indicate the matching couching represent the claws. Do both left legs it. A pair of fi ne curved watchmaker’s thread and for this thread, the couching the same way. 13 tweezers can also help with this. stitches can be 2-3mm apart. 21 The spiky mohawk is created by 24 The fi rst layer of body padding will be • For the contrasting couching thread that couching the lilac plate. Use the waxed done using soft cotton, from the base of the will make up the splotches of colour on purple Gutermann thread. Fix the plate neck to the tail’s end. Work in one length if top, make sure your couching stitches inside the outline with a couple of couching you can. You will need to adapt the padding are as close together as possible to stitches. Do not be tempted to try to stitch to the shape of the body. Stay inside the completely cover the metallic twist. through the plate, as it will damage it. outline for this fi rst layer. • Only use one strand of stranded cotton. 22 Lay the plate down at an angle to 25 The padding needs to be fl at under the It is easier to use several needles, one for represent the fi rst spike and do a couple chest of the chameleon but rounder as it each colour of stranded cotton, as you more couching stitches at the tip of the reaches the beginning of the tail. will change colour regularly. spike. Fold the plate back on itself to go back towards the inside of the outline. Do 26 Start with three lengths of soft cotton, 10 www.stitchmag.co.uk