P D F St Petersburg PDF ebook Edition 7th Edition Release Date Mar 2015 Pages 272 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. How to Use This Book 4 Top Sights features provide in-depth coverage of the city’s very best sights. easy-to-use sections THE HERMITAGE Plan Your Trip Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: Your planning tool kit 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT Photos, lists and suggestions to 5 7 help you create your perfect trip. EATING SHOPPING 6 DRINKING & 2 SPORTS & NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITIES Explore All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, Your complete city guide starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Top Sights features, in-depth Sights are arranged in the geographic order that reviews and local tips. we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Understand range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, so you These symbols and abbreviations give vital can make sense of the city. information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Survival Guide Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required Your at-a-glance reference % Telephone number f Ferry Vital practical information to help you have a smooth trip. h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train n Nonsmoking a pt apartments plus a Air-conditioning d double rooms i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms full-colour s Swimming pool r rooms map section v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites 31HISTORIC MITTE 4462K3571ehgJyo#æ1L6hoaASSnnnKelip-tgdSeuF3-piwMtmsl1ot3rM6meusaaoh1rtpasuar3AAfetsnokbtrehdarTi-tuDTänsidemBit6ý#iaukerere2llirsgllrgleaec1asvhr7ru-tSpWPtAeoJetescliRdnaulalnaWhllHmlyetsenleörRe-zaiatSBtcinaerersur#æhheaMhpebpnliet-dion6YeibTrttiHezltrgg-ghatiaasrStkeetk-rntchtuRornasnerhebilnUcnn-buShhBtfpPHeeirnrifch-nVorn-e-Geu-orüloKironS-raSBtrfcGtagernMe-StrDtOtsrkzBBrmüidatPeewtcarSpltRSBoalkSmr2R#æeePcp-ieitep8cPPvrvnlhzerleraplhoeoeepleBeeratArle-nPlt-vuzaeiuttsdu-babztnedKdBzee3oul#æd#§eaiaPsimg0lkerAso-mptemtsLmrBeanstPöelandaLplariLrebnrgakankarseú#utermcrnsGnfa2-#æek&kKbetrijAidnrr36eo-lrSeAé-lne4TPelSrepsertlnegailatrt3DC-eerPdbmr1ro-eai9tmiuAKeaiysâ#önmtapdhrdeeengeelr#æ#¦renRCCS8etEbrearrtPsPtrreuPol2222iTeaoctI#ærnsHott2222AhM2-#æHdszSdDrd5osLada#ï2222eeteZneta0000000000mlrnlm-noaeim2222BKp1#æeMa-P0000000000cg#æ9rSehzroaP#§2222aiiaSCPc-enrinP#æ0000000000rlAgrLtuhaglihP2222iriklasreesraeatsaet0000000000leSt7rzeraitBe2222#ænltzrVtpi-8Kzrt5rrbPCiSrdL0000000000uoeisgetzznorsatraae22224#ÿtslt-éB1äia-#eensrrrrgl-irmnû#2222tlsd#§etrpe7-zSaesTet4rnlTrntaonnNrAdoSsHrbtS4ú#tS#æizAdurepetco6cArrl#¦ndshoRtogh1Rseeugen7deTiâ#klDD#¦MermfirrPaenkeifacabnlriahrar1prhiarnKac8BstisoehhrznucotednrsnilehahoeststrgeeWsrrntdilurrh#æertena1lfmrSns2ematrrtsd#ârmterAlbMrec§#3#úhMotsa3utDerhrstFMrroreir#æien4toBtdst5eBBatrhFG2llirnih5kPa#ûsetrrscrene9arlth6£#e#þatrhcnEEsý#5ont#ýhoz2tâ#zl#¦â#2sröftt9#ú-jiT-t6J3sâ#5SKraiäSF63s8eM4uopgtrcea8#þ3ai3Fbrci2ueedrh7ic#þehstredm12h#úerre2dFst2s§#nsartmrZStr5#ûiptsicrt§#ieri3te5#ýhrt66#þ4drtg#þs6#ú97re8teiâ#cr§§##lFried4hrsicAhstrK7#þtsaG24PlUk#æ1m#úsl3cr3a#ú20htenæ#4uneecnrns§##út5rk06stoWrt3Jâ#â#CerCh2arolKo#ÿttensgtrer#þ#úhho#ú5ei5#ý1â#dd6#úeca00000000000000000n#ú7#þ70e37e8hcns9Bn3Gn000000000000000009s4knt4ýC#6hetadrrlotFFtenisp5etLrrGs00000000000000000e3hs0cahwiste#Ür-niSoschorl#úml-nStrUTn00000000000000000tieæ#vâ#eFudirsitcädtsrRsnthr15mnorla4se300000000000000000uakt0sy9rsnt1nrdt4mUC#û00000000000000000BrHzi76-#þnehMLöaurkgeâ#rDa#úf#þe3ns3i4tbrMeaamsvrkgnrafeunset9r#æieir2H#û6â#p5ms1StbllrUp#úB11scKi1z4esotMelacâ#nLahiaigralgtdheoKiartOoueeät##Ün2SeMe#ýktzknot2hhrltZrnd7prsSbrHciajtaee2ro#þoi7eoulhdmJuSetsn-naatf1rn#ýprSäüe0sn0siustt§#emeg7znrettt#ü2s5ts#ænrzrr6rentâ#v45eberHAr1osrunsmJearutIssaglemerSOtMrrtbrseruwBtaltlsgrtr#úDHM3#æKt#úresGGaâ#erP7uvieiuLurpiso1pe4nRulS5d#ÿsgftiae0Aeitnoettmtâ#strMster7#ÿtZrzegur7uegic6hirpao5rmusaPMshslnANbaacteobetrriuhesziknnsdjAeAobxweABOLeusluir-SojämuwSsropadcrrwAsiaAlu222tetnntthlFWigläpsmgesigeltre222oraStrlrJAJFie-earttneraKsütrSsirlt222tsdktgastuidzdreeoteKerparnrei222BubdrsgirsssotltcsrrtOashtcmrFshb222rtreoShutbzra7m#ÿwrfet222tMHrt7aauNarsüseWhgaLhgs0SHHdaSrngecuSSeciHr.rditpeseeak2etetskkppPraaieBlbbe5ePetcted¦#33nrceMtRkäe§§m##Bhosm1ot2ekmbetaenurr8atcmflcr4eleraoalnihmeidrkhiiüslptpepnsakseec5epcencatultsesSh0arhaarskrrts0ttedkrret-zkrtrem4635271 HISTORIC MITTE315 c#gFo rPBF saeuymts-mfirlbyie-ofnrldsie luynsdelyd on maps ,t stwre ettrw tipihnlee r oMrooaompms Lsegend. 42-map-section-bln8.indd 314 23/1412/-2m0a1p2- s e3c:1ti5o:n3-2b lPn8M.indd 315 23/11/2012 3:15:32 PM ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Plan Your Trip 1 St Petersburg “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Tom Masters, Simon Richmond CCoonntteennttss PPllaann Y Yoouurr T Trriipp page 1 4 Welcome to Top Itineraries .............20 Travelling to St Petersburg .................4 Moscow ........................33 If You Like .....................22 St Petersburg’s Museums & Month by Month ..........24 Top 10 ..............................6 Galleries .....................34 With Kids ......................26 What’s New ...................13 Eating .........................36 Money-Saving Tips ......27 Need to Know ...............14 Drinking & Visas .............................28 Nightlife .....................40 First Time St Petersburg ...............16 Guided Tours ...............29 Entertainment ..........43 Getting Around .............18 Visiting on a Cruise ......31 Shopping ....................46 Explore St Petersburg 48 Historic Heart ..............52 Vasilyevsky Island ......132 Day Trips from Sennaya & Kolomna ...98 Petrograd & St Petersburg ...........159 Smolny & Vyborg Sides ..............142 Sleeping ......................174 Vosstaniya ..................112 Understand St Petersburg 185 St Petersburg History ........................188 Arts ..............................213 Today ...........................186 Architecture ...............206 Literature ...................220 Survival Guide 225 Transport ...................226 Language ...................236 Directory A–Z ............230 Index ...........................245 St Petersburg Maps 254 PETE SEAWARD / GETTY IMAGES © KATIE GARROD / GETTY IMAGES © (left) Peterhof p160 P(ptah1ebe3t oec4vri t’eCsy) e’ ssKiu lfiuimnrngsms tpt emkaria unpmstaienleaugrcma ae .t. KEREN SU / GETTY IM (right) Winter Palace AGES © p54 A statue inside the baroque institution. Petrograd & Vyborg Sides p142 Vasilyevsky Island p132 Historic Heart p52 Smolny & Sennaya & Vosstaniya Kolomna p112 p98 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to St Petersburg Once a desolate swamp, Russia’s imperial capital is today a dazzling metropolis whose sheer grandeur never fails to amaze. City of the Tsars Artistic Powerhouse Built from nothing by westward-looking St Petersburg is an almost unrivalled treas- Peter the Great, St Petersburg was from its ure trove of art and culture. You can spend inception to be a display of imperial Russia’s days in the Hermitage, seeing everything growing status in the world. Fine-tuned by from Egyptian mummies to Picassos, while Peter’s successors, who employed a host of the Russian Museum, spread over four sump- European architects to add fabulous palaces tuous palaces, is perhaps the best collection and cathedrals to the city’s layout, St Peters- of Russian art in the world. Add to this burg grew to be the Romanovs’ showcase world-class ballet and opera at the Mariinsky capital and Russia’s first great, modern Theatre, classical concerts at the Shostak- citIt has retained this status despite the ovich Philharmonia and a slew of big-name capital moving back to Moscow following music festivals over the summer months, and the revolution. Despite all that history has you won’t be stuck for cultural nourishment. thrown at it, St Petersburg still feels every If contemporary art is more your thing, bit the imperial capital, a city largely frozen there’s also the fantastic Erarta Museum, in time. showcasing the best in modern Russian art, and a small but buzzing gallery scene. Venice of the North White Nights Whether you’re cruising the elegant canals, crossing one of the city’s 342 bridges or The city’s White Nights are legendary: those watching ships on the mighty Neva River long summer evenings when the northern at night, you’re never far from water in St sun barely dips below the horizon. Revelry Petersburg. With the historic centre’s canals begins in May, when spring finally comes to lined by Italianate mansions and broken up the city and parks are filled with flowering by striking plazas adorned with baroque trees, and peaks in mid-June, when the sky and neoclassical palaces, it’s unsurprising doesn’t get dark, festivals pack out concert that the city is often compared to Venice. halls and the entire city seems to be party- ing over the brief but glorious summer. But don’t worry – even when the skies are grey and the ground covered in snow, St Peters- burg’s rich culture still dazzles and delights. PETE SEAW ARD / GETTY IM AGES © Why I Love St Petersburg By Tom Masters, Author There is something about St Petersburg that gets under your skin. Despite preferring Moscow when I first came to Russia almost two decades ago, St Petersburg lingered; its colours and incredible light stayed with me, its history haunted me. When I came to live in Russia in 2000, I didn’t hesitate in choosing St Petersburg. Today what excites me about the city is the growing underground art and music scene, the hedonistic atmosphere and the sense that great things are once again happening here. The city has emerged from Moscow’s shadow and will, I hope, show you a very different side to modern Russia. For more about our authors, see p272. Top: Ballet performance at the Mariinsky Theatre (p101) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 St Petersburg’s Top 10 7 White Nights (p24) The Hermitage (p54) 1 The ultimate St Petersburg experience 2 Perhaps the world’s greatest museum, is in mid-June when the sun slumps the Hermitage’s vast collection is quite towards the horizon but never fully sets, simply mind-boggling, with Egyptian mum- meaning that the nights are a wonderful mies, more Rembrandts than the Louvre, whitish-grey. Petersburgers indulge them- and a collection of early-20th-century art selves in all-night revelry, several festivals unrivalled by almost any other. Plus your take place and the entire city enjoys an un- entry ticket allows you to walk around the characteristically relaxed atmosphere. It’s fascinating apartments and dazzling state- the busiest time to visit the city, and most rooms of the Romanovs. Then there are still hotels are booked up weeks in advance, but the other museum sites: the Winter Palace there’s nothing quite like it, so don’t miss of Peter I, General Staff Building, Menshikov out – even if you come in May or July you’ll Palace, Imperial Porcelain factory and ex- be impressed by how late the sun stays out! cellent Hermitage Storage Facility. WHITE NIGHTS FESTIVAL CELEBRATIONS 1H istoric Heart zM onth by Month PHOTOAGENCY INTERPRESS/GLOBAL LOOK / CORBIS © STUART COX / GETTY IMAGES © 8 St Isaac’s View (p78) 3odnoem Nhferio soo tmofo tSr htithce I ersc avesainteuctwrn’sepn Cboiniaengtat hgt oseof dlt dthrh aeel , KEREN SU / GETTY IM P which rises majestically over AGES © L the uniformly sized Italianate AN palaces and mansions around Y the Admiralty. Well worth O the climb up the 262 steps, a U R panorama of the city opens T up to you – with fantastic R I views over the river, the Win- P S ter Palace and the Bronze T P Horseman. The cathedral’s E interior is also well worth see- T E ing, with a wonderfully over- RS the-top iconostasis framed by B columns of marble, malachite u R and lazurite. MARIINSKY PALACE G ’S FROM ST ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL T 1H istoric Heart O P 1 0 JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IM AGES ©