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See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping 1 r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: 2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these Your complete guide ranges, by author preference. Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation 3 No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites 4 c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sri Lanka Jaffna & the North p256 The Ancient The Cities West p193 p84 The East p229 Colombo#_ The Hill p56 Country p142 The South p103 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Stuart Butler, Iain Stewart P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Sri Lanka . . . 4 COLOMBO . . . . . . . . . 56 Dondra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 Sri Lanka Map . . . . . . . . . . .6 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Talalla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 Sri Lanka’s Top 20 . . . . . . .8 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Dikwella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Goyambokka . . . . . . . . . . .129 First Time Sri Lanka . . . 20 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Tangalla & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Festivals & Events . . . . . . .70 Bundala If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 National Park . . . . . . . . . .134 Month by Month . . . . . . . 26 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 Tissamaharama . . . . . . . .134 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .78 Around Eat & Drink Like a Local . 34 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Tissamaharama . . . . . . . .137 Beaches & Activities . . . 39 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Yala National Park . . . . . .138 National Parks & Safaris 46 Kataragama . . . . . . . . . . . .140 Travel with Children . . . . .51 THE WEST . . . . . . . . .84 Regions at a Glance . . . . 53 THE HILL North of Colombo . . . . .86 COUNTRY . . . . . . . . 142 Colombo to Negombo . . . .86 Colombo to Kandy . . . . . .144 Negombo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 SARANGA DEVA DE ALWIS /GETTY IMAGES © ANKWSA&arlo eiuIollgunpptuohdtainthmgutidt yaroub aumNf o wN &ea Ctaag, o oD toB . iluKmo .oetan .nmcb .latpho .obli . .ttPBoai . .ay a . . .ar y . .k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .999999535111 EKNKAA(KSadaariutorsnnauwiut mddlP agnoyyra’adf sa .dt l Ka o .KPaE . . a)eal . .inan y . . .dkad . . .y y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111466566468351 Hikkaduwa & Around . . . . .98 Nuwara Eliya . . . . . . . . . . .166 MALABAR PIED HORNBILL, Around Nuwara Eliya . . . . .171 YALA NATIONAL PARK P138 THE SOUTH . . . . . . . 103 Horton Plains National Galle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Park & World’s End . . . . .173 ERIC L. W UArnoauwnadt uGnaall e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111155 HBealpihuutal lOey .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117755 HEATER /GETTY IMAGES © UKAMohnidgaaignwgagaalamtamu an .a . .a . . &t . .o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112201 BEABlraaloandudu .nal .ldar .a . .Ew . .lle . .al . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111188774985 Weligama . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Koslanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186 Mirissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Wellawaya . . . . . . . . . . . . .186 Matara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Embilipitiya . . . . . . . . . . . .187 FRESCOES, SIGIRIYA P200 Contents UNDERSTAND Sri Lanka Today . . . . . . 278 DALLAS STRIBLEY /GETTY IMAGES © HPESIsnerissiovu tLipoeralosrenyn . k om . .af . . enS . .n . .Trti . .ea . .aLl . .a . . .n . . .k . . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .322208990062 PETTAH MARKETS P60, COLOMBO Uda Walawe THE EAST . . . . . . . . .229 National Park . . . . . . . . . .188 SURVIVAL Monaragala . . . . . . . . . . . .231 Sinharaja Forest GUIDE Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189 Around Monaragala . . . . .231 Arugam Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .232 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .304 THE ANCIENT North of Arugam Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .237 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . .312 CITIES . . . . . . . . . . . 193 South of Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .318 Matale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 Arugam Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .239 Nalanda Gedige . . . . . . . .197 Ampara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Dambulla . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197 Around Ampara . . . . . . . .241 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . .335 Sigiriya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 Batticaloa . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 Habarana . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 Around Batticaloa . . . . . .245 Polonnaruwa . . . . . . . . . . .206 Kalkudah & Giritale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212 Passekudah Beaches . . . .245 Mandalagiri Vihara . . . . . .213 Trincomalee . . . . . . . . . . . .247 SPECIAL Minneriya & Kaudulla Uppuveli & Nilaveli . . . . . .251 FEATURES National Parks . . . . . . . . .213 Ritigala Ruins . . . . . . . . . .214 JAFFNA & ELiakte & a DLroicnakl . . . . . . . . . 34 Anuradhapura . . . . . . . . . .215 THE NORTH . . . . . . .256 Beaches Mihintale . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223 Vavuniya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258 & Activities . . . . . . . . . 39 Yapahuwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226 Mannar Island National Parks Panduwasnuwara . . . . . . .227 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 & Safaris . . . . . . . . . . .46 Ridi Vihara . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 Jaffna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262 People of Sri Lanka . . . . . . . . . .296 Kurunegala . . . . . . . . . . . .228 Jaffna Peninsula . . . . . . . .271 Sri Lankan Jaffna’s Islands . . . . . . . . .274 Tea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 4 Welcome to Sri Lanka Endless beaches, timeless ruins, welcoming people, oodles of elephants, rolling surf, cheap prices, fun trains, famous tea and flavourful food describe Sri Lanka. The Undiscovered Country Rainforests & Beaches You might say Sri Lanka has been hiding in When you’re ready to escape the tropical plain sight. Countless numbers of travellers climate of the coast and lowlands, head for have passed overhead on their way to some- the hills, with their temperate, achingly place else, and years of war and challenges, green charms. Verdant tea plantations and such as tsunamis, have kept Sri Lanka off rainforested peaks beckon walkers, hikers many itineraries. and those who just want to see it during a But now Sri Lanka is finding its way spectacular train ride. onto the itineraries of ever more travel- And then there are the beaches. Daz- lers. Several years since the war ended, the zlingly white and often untrod, they ring country is moving forward quickly, even the island so that no matter where you go, as questions about the hostilities continue you’ll be near a sandy gem. Should you beat to spark debate. Lying between the more the inevitable languor, you can surf and trodden parts of India and Southeast Asia, dive world-class sites without world-class Sri Lanka’s myriad appeals are undeniably crowds. alluring. It’s So Easy So Much in So Little Distances are short: see the sacred home of Few places have as many Unesco World the world’s oldest living tree in the morning Heritage Sites – eight – packed into such a in Anuradhapura, and stand awestruck by small area. Sri Lanka’s 2000-plus years of the sight of hundreds of elephants gather- culture can be discovered at ancient sites, ing in the afternoon at Minneriya. Discover where legendary temples boast beautiful a favourite beach, meditate in a 2000-year- details. old temple, exchange smiles while stroll- Across the island, that thing that goes ing a mellow village, marvel at birds and bump in the night might be an elephant wildflowers, try to keep count of the little heading to a favourite waterhole. Safari dishes that come with your rice and curry. tours of Sri Lanka’s pleasantly relaxed Stroll past colonial gems in Colombo, then national parks encounter leopards, water hit some epic surf. Sri Lanka is spectacular, buffaloes, all manner of birds and a passel affordable and still often uncrowded. Now of primates. is the best time to discover it. 5 IDRIS AHM ED / GETTY IM AGES © Why I Love Sri Lanka By Ryan Ver Berkmoes My fascination with Sri Lanka began when I read Paul Theroux’s The Great Railway Bazaar as a child. His wonderment at the island’s endless contradictions stayed with me. In 2004 I was in the west and south in the weeks after the tsunami. I was struck by the stories of the survivors and deeply moved by their efforts to rebuild. In the years since I have been endlessly amazed by the Sri Lankans’ ability to overcome disaster, war and myriad other challenges as they work tirelessly to make their country match its potential, while remaining some of the most charming people on the planet. For more about our authors, see page 336. Above: Statue of Buddha, Maligawila (p232) 50 km30 miles E 0' 0 2º 00 8 TION 2100m 1500m 900m 450m 0 aruwaold buildingsnts (p206) 81º30'E ELEVA PolonnaThousand-year-and monume e B A Y O FB E N G A L Nilaveli Trincomale Mutur uwa ri Lanka80º30'E 81º00'E 80º00'E 79º30'E Point PedroPalk StraitJaffnaKaraitivuHindu temples and fruit treesJaffna(p262) NainativuJaffnaLagoonNeduntivu0'N Pooneryn KilinochchiPalk Bay RameswaramMullaittivu N D I AMankulamMannarIslandTalaimannar0'N Northern Province Gulf of MannarVavuniyaaAnuradhapuraAmazing cultural and religious Uppuveliheritage (p215) Medawachchiya0'N North Central Province AnuradhapuraMihintaleKaudullaNational ParkKalpitiya MinneriyaNationalParkHabaranaPuttalam0'N Polonnar S 9º3 I 9º0 8º3 8º0 d n E EasternProvinceBatticaloa Maha Oya Ampara SenanayakeAkkaraipattuSamudraHorton Plains & World’s Wild and windsweptmoorlands (p173) PottuvilMonaragalaArugam BayMaligawilaPanamawayaArugam BayProvinceSurfing paradiseOkandaof Uva(p232)KumanaNational Park Kataragama Yala NationalParkmaUda Walawe National ParkKirindaBuffalo, crocodiles andelephants (p188) Bundala National ParkOne of Sri Lanka's finestbirding destinations (p134) SigiriyaSigiriyaA stunning rockDambullasurrounded by gardens (p200)NorthWesternProvincePadeniyaI N D I A NCentral ProvinceO C E A N7º30'N KnucklesKurunegalaRangeMatale(1863m) PolgahawelaKandyKandyThe cultural capitalof the island (p144)NegomboProvince ofSabaragamuwaJa-ElaGampahaKitulgalaKarawanella7º00'N BadullaNuwara EliyaAvissawellaCOLOMBOAdam's PeakHorton Plains(Sri Pada)EllaNational ParkMt Lavinia(2243m)Bandarawela HaputaleColomboWesternWorld'sWellaBelihul OyaColonial charms andEndProvinceRatnapurafascinating shopping (p56)Pelmadulla Uda Walawe6º30'N SinharajaNational ParkForestAdam's PeakReserveAluthgamaA beautiful and historic walkBentotaInduruwa(p163)DeniyayaEmbilipitiya TissamaharaSouthernBundalaProvinceGalle FortNational ParkUnmissably historic and Hikkaduwabeguiling (p105)AkuressaGalle6º00'N TangallaUnawatunaMirissaMataraWeligamaSee blue whalesMirissaon a boat excursion (p123) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 8 Sri Lanka’s Top 20 Stunning Beaches Travelling by Train 1 There are long, golden-specked ones, 2 Sometimes there’s no way to get a there are dainty ones with soft white seat on the slow but oh-so-popular sand, there are wind- and wave-battered train to Ella (p179), but with a prime ones, and ones without a footstep for standing-room-only spot looking out at a miles. Some have a slowly, slowly vibe and rolling carpet of tea, who cares? Outside, some have a lively party mood, but which- the colourful silk saris of Tamil tea pick- ever you choose, the beaches of Sri Lanka ers stand out in the sea of green; inside, (p39) really are every bit as gorgeous you may get a shy welcome via a smile. At as you’ve heard. And we guarantee that stations, vendors hustle treats, including after you’ve returned home, every time some amazing corn and chilli fritters sold you sit in rush-hour traffic on a wet and wrapped in somebody’s old homework cold Monday morning, an image of palm paper. Munching one of these while the trees and azure Sri Lankan waters will scenery creaks past? Sublime. float into your mind! Tangalla beach (p131)