Index 4 Weekend Granada in Ancient Times Back to the Neolithic COUNTRY BREAK Lagoons with a Thousand-Year history The Sierra Martilla Dolmens Iberian Splendour TURISMO DE GRANADA A Cradle of Cultures PATRONATO PROVINCIAL The Phoenician Legacy • The Cave of the Bats Plaza Mariana Pineda, 10, 2ª 18009 - Granada Sexiand its Prized Garum • Teléfonos: 958/ 24 71 46 8 Fax: 958/ 24 71 29 Moorish Granada • The Alhambra, a World e-mail: [email protected] CITY BREAK Heritage Site www.turismodegranada.org The Islamic Madraza www.turgranada.com • The House of Lorenzo el Chapiz TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE The Walled Medina Teléfono: 958/ 24 71 28 The Moorish Trade Exchange Fax: 958/ 24 71 27 For Princess Aixa e-mail: [email protected] A Celebration of the Senses Health meets History The Watchtowers on the Plain Drinking up the Darro A Persian Palace on the River Genil Babbling Water COUNTRY BREAK Granada’s Watchful Eye The Alcazaba of the Omeys The Heights of Lanjarón Guadix Alcazaba The Watchtower of the Tropics d The Unassailable Fortress l From San Cristóbal Hill r The Lookout of the Moors o La Rábita and its Castle Europa The Fountains of Loja w The Hammansof Al-Jatib España The Baths in the Jewish Quarter e 22 Christian Granada h Andalucía The Pantheon of the Catholic Kings t CITY BREAK In honour of the Gran Capitán Mudejar Imagery n Granada On the Site of the Great Mosque The Legacy of Charles V i Baza - Huéscar: A Library of Treasures El Altiplano A Baroque Jewel a Siloé’s Masterpiece d Guadix y Granada’s Basilica Marquesado The Centre of Power a Poniente Granada Urban Majesty n Granadino Sierra Nevada COUNTRY BREAK The Triumph of Faith a The Cathedral Church of the Alpujarra r Valle de Lecrín Bastetanians Neo-Classical Brilliance G Costa Tropical Renaissance Elegance A Blend of Styles The Pink Palace The Plain Style of the Peñaflors Catalan Modernism ©Patronato Provincial de Turismo de Granada Design and Production: www.edantur.com The Fort of the Christian Governors 1 32 Cultural Granada Romantic Travellers Vestiges of Garnata From Bloomsbury to Yegen CITY BREAK The Finest Arts Treasures of the Nasrids 58 The Casa de los Tiros The Flavours of Granada Avant-Garde Art Tapa-Sampling in Granada In the Palace of the Pisas CITY BREAK Moorish Tea-Houses Heroes and Villains Convent Sweets Abracadabra A World of Gourmet Cuisine Culture in the Street Flamenco Encounters COUNTRY BREAK Traditional Cooking On the Jazz Beat Caviar from El Poniente Silence, We’re Shooting! Quality Wines Sensual Argentina Our Exotic Coast 64 COUNTRY BREAK The Potter’s Tradition Shopping The Goddess of Galera The Silk Market A Cult to Sugar CITY BREAK A Shopping Day The Cave of the Seven Palaces The Latest Leisure Centres The Warrior’s Home The Secrets of the Mountain COUNTRY BREAK The Luthiers Prehistoric Orce Accitan Pottery Cultural Exchange Jarapa Rugs from the Alpujarras Jazz on the Coast The Trovo Singers 68 Health and Leisure The Chords of a Guitar Healthy Granada The Roots of Music COUNTRY BREAK Classical Airs 44 70 Following the Steps of Lorca Out on the town The Poet’s Summer Residence Flamenco Moon CITY BREAK CITY BREAK Downtown Drinks COUNTRY BREAK The Birth of a Poet Bohemian Nights The Poet and his Family The Earth Pays Homage 72 Granada’s Nature 46 Sea and Sierra For the Kids COUNTRY BREAK The Breathtaking Badlands Science for All Granada’s Green Space CITY BREAK Camera Obscura The Sierra of Castril An Afternoon at the Bowling Alley The Heart of the Tableland Interpreting Sacromonte The Sierra of La Sagra The Cahorros of Monachil COUNTRY BREAK A Garden on the Coast The Infiernos of Loja Parrots and Ostriches The Escarpments of Alhama A Cooling Dip Carchuna Beach On Ice The Rocks of San Cristóbal Giant Redwoods at La Losa 50 Romantic Granada 78 Oriental Dreams Active Granada CITY BREAK Hidden Paradises A Snow-Capped Sanctuary The Paseo de los Tristes COUNTRY BREAK Underwater World Artists’ Inspiration On the crest of the wave The Colours of Bib-Rambla Long-distance Skiing Touching the Sky Out to sea The Magic of Sacromonte A day’s Fishing Long Distance Footpaths COUNTRY BREAK The Cave House Tradition The Estrella Route The Charm of Simplicity A Bird’s Eye View Boabdil’s Farewell Climbing in the Sierra Nevada The Route of the Snow-Bearers The Centre of the Earth The Paseo de las Flores Pump your Adrenaline A Sea of Clouds Practice your swing 2 3 Granada in Ancient Times Back to the Neolithic D-7 The Sierra Martilla Dolmens E-1 COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK out of the hillsides and wors- hipped the gods of life and death, resurrection and ferti- lity. Their dead were buried in characteristic constructions named dolmens, and 198 of THE GORAFE DOLMENS. these still remain today in the At the beginning of the locality of Gorafe, the grea- fifth millennium, numerous test concentration of burial Neolithic populations SIERRA MARTILLA DOLMENS. The Megalithic settled in the natural remains of a settlement and necropolis in the Sierra valley of the Gor river, Martilla near the town of Lojaare an excellent refe- which in Prehistoric times was the border rence point for discovering the archaeological heri- between the Levan- tage of the province of Granada. tine tribal groups and The site is an extremely significant those of Lower Anda- one, containing a dozen dolmens lucia. These Mega- from the Copper Agewith one or lithic settlers formed a several burial chambers half-dug complex, hierarchic into the rock. There are also burial society. They lived in grounds from the High Mediaeval dwellings hollowed mounds of this type in the era and a Moorish watchtower. whole of the Iberian Penin- Tourist Information Office of Loja sula and most of Europe. This 958 323 949 is a journey back to antiquity definitely not to be missed. Iberian Splendour D-8 City Council of Gorafe COUNTRY BREAK 958 693 159 ARCHAEOLOGICAL Lagoons with a Thousand-Year history REMAINS AT BASTI. In D-5 around the 6th century, the Iberians chose the COUNTRY BREAK Cepero Hill, where the present-day town of VENTANAS CAVE. Declared Bazais located, to found a Natural Monument of what was to become Andalusia, the Ventanas Ca- one of the most impor- ve at Píñaroffers an extrava- tant fortified towns or ganza of shadows and light “oppida” in the whole Tourist Information Office of Baza and is one of the most interes- of South-Eastern 958 861 325 ting places where we can find Iberia: Basti. Its out how our Prehistoric ances- City Council of Píñar two necropolis, the Santuario Hill and the tors used to live, with lifelike 958 394 613 Largo Hill, give us an idea of the town’s splen- recreations installed along the www.cuevalasventanas.com dour. Funerary offerings and extremely valuable whole of the route. Impressive works of art have been discovered here such as stalagmites, stalactites and gullies bored into the rock by the the Lady of Bazaand the Warrior, urn-statues water can be observed in the Piletas and Columnas Rooms used by the inhabitants of Basti to contain the and in the Gran Simaor Great Chasm, a well of over 20 metres ashes of their higher-ranking dead. Roman and deep giving access to theTesoro Room. Mediaeval remains have also been found on excavation of this site, declared to be a Site of Cultural Interest. 4 5 Granada in Ancient Times A Cradle of Cultures The Cave of the Bats E-2 H-6 COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK PEÑA DE LOS GITANOS. The impressive natural outcrop of the Peña de los Gitanos, in Montefrío, is set on a high rocky bluff with terraces and oak woods, and contains one of the most inte- resting archaeological sites in the Poniente Granadino. This was an ideal habitat for Neolithic settlers due to its fertile land and abundance of wild animals, and almost a hundred Megalithic tombscan be observed here, with dolmens of up to 8 metres in length forming part of three necropolis: those of Castellón, La Camarilla and El Rodeo. There are also numerous caves where flint arrowhe- ads, bone combs and copper idols have been found together with cave paintings. It has been declared a Site of Cultural Interest. CAVE OF THE City Council of Albuñol Tourist Information Office of Montefrío BATS. Extremely 958 826 528 958 336 004 important archaeo- logical remains have been discovered on the site of this prehistoric settlement, located on the western wall of the Angosturas Ravine in Albuñol and dating from the era of transition between the Neolithic and the Metal Age. The distinctive tempe- ratures and geological conditions inside the cave have allowed the conservation of extremely valua- ble remains such as vessels, cooking pots, arrowhe- ads and knives, in addition to a magnificent speci- men of woven plant craftwork (esparto grass shoes and clothing) discovered in the underground burial chambers. The cave is open to visitors. Sexi and its Prized Garum H-3 The Phoenician Legacy H-3 COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK EL MAJUELO FISH-SALTING FAC- TORY. Evidence has been discovered THE PUENTE DE NOY here of the work carried out at what NECROPOLIS. This impres- was the fish-salting factory of the sive necropolis was used Roman city of Sexi, dating as far back up until Roman times, as the 4th century B.C., although it and was a burial ground reached its apogee in the 1st and 2nd from the 7th to the 1st centuries A.D.The much-appreciated centuries B.C. It is located garum, a paste or sauce made from in the natural area of fermented fish entrails, was produced Puente de Noy, from which here and exported to the whole of the it takes its name. Almost Roman Empire. Today part of the ancient factory is buried beneath 200 tombs with funerary the El Majuelo Botanical and Archaeological Park, but a large offerings have been found extension of the salting Tourist Information Office of Almuñécar during the different exca- basins and structures exca- Tourist Information Office of Almuñécar 958 631 125 vations made here. vated in the 1970´s and 80´s 958 631 125 can be observed. 6 7 Moorish Granada The Alhambra, a World Heritage Site F-4 CITY BREAK LA ALHAMBRA.Erected by the Lionsand its famous patio. The prestigious architects of the time route around the Alhambra, one on the hill of Sabika, majestically of Spain’s most visited monu- overlooking the Darro Valley, this ments, is completed by a stroll regal, unassailable citadel with its through different rooms such as Oriental architecture has gone the Hall of the Two Sisters, the down in history as the maximum Hall of the Abencerrajesor the symbol of the splendour achieved Hall of the Kings, decorated by Granada under the Nasrid with beautiful plasterwork, and dynasty. Built between the 13th contemplation of the Alcazaba and 15th centuries, it contains with its towers and the aljibes or all aspects of the art of the Moorish Baths. Outside the Moorish era in Spain and is an wall which encloses it is the artistic legacy of incalculable Generalife, which with its mag- value, declared a World Heritage nificent gardens was the summer Site by UNESCO. palace of the Sultans. Beautiful patios and fountains enveloped by exuberant gardens lead the visitor to the sumptuous Moorish Palaces such as that of Comares, inside which are the Patio of the Myrtles and the Hall of the Ambassadors with its magnificent carved wood Alhambra de Granada dome, and the Palace of the 902 441 221 8 9 Moorish Granada The Islamic Madraza F-4 F-4 The Walled Medina CITY BREAK CITY BREAK PALACE OF THE MADRAZA. Built under CITY WALLS AND GATES. The the reign of Yusuf I in the 14th century, walls encircling Mediaeval Granada this ancient Islamic University of higher fulfilled a dual function – they Koranic studies where Theology, Jurispru- defended it against enemy attack dence and Philosophy were taught enjo- and marked out its limits against yed great fame and prestige in the West. the surrounding plain. The first After housing the City Hall for some time, walls were built with this purpose the building later became a fabric ware- by the Ziritesin the 11th century, house, but it is now a university once and some remains of this primitive more. It possesses a harmonious combina- construction are still visible together tion of architectural styles as can be seen from its Baroque faça- with later additions in the Albaicín, de, theIslamic oratory and the beautiful Mudejar coffered cei- beside the Cuesta de la Alhacaba. lingin the Hall of the Caballeros Oficios, 14 (Knights) Veinticuatro. 958 243 484 The city gatesintersper- sed around the walls were a hive of activity, with trade and market transactions taking place in the lively, bustling medina. The main Gate of Elvirastill stands in all its splendour today, as does the Gate of Monaita. The House of Lorenzo el Chapiz F-4 CITY BREAK HOUSE OF EL CHAPIZ. Home to the School of Arabic Studiessince 1932, this Mudejar monument is named after its owners, the Moorish lords Lorenzo el Chapiz and Hernán López El Ferí. Plasterwork, pools, por- ticoed galleries and huge marble columns grace this building which may origi- nally have formed part of the Islamic Palaceof Dar al- Cuesta del Chapiz, 22 Bayda, “the white house”. 958 222 290 10 11 Moorish Granada The Moorish Trade Exchange F-4 F-4 Health meets History CITY BREAK CITY BREAK CORRAL DEL CARBÓN. This was THE ALJIBE ARABIC BATHS. the corn exchange in Moorish Located in the historic Aljibe timesand served merchants as a or pool of San Miguel, goods warehouse and lodging these baths recover a thou- house. It is the only building of sand-year old tradition in the this type in Spain to be totally pre- city of the Alhambra, inheri- served today, meriting its declara- ted by the Moors from the tion as a Monument of Cultural Romans with their famous Interest. Under Christian domi- spas or hot baths. nation it was used as a coal ware- house and a theatre. Inside the baths there are six Calle Mariana Pineda warm water poolsand one cold water pool, and massa- ge and aromatherapy are For Princess Aixa F-4 also on offer. CITY BREAK San Miguel Alta, 41 PALACE OF DAR AL-HORRA. In the Plaza de San Miguel 958 522 867 Bajo, in the heart of the Albaicín quarter, stands the last dwe- lling place of the mother of the Moorish king Boabil, a superb mansion house constructed in the 15th centuryon the foundations of The Watchtowers on the Plain F-4 the demolished palace of the Zirite CITY BREAK monarchs. Declared a Monument of Cultural Interest, its many THE TORRES BERMEJAS. Built on the southernmost rooms and lush gardens later beca- edge of the Cerro de los Mártires hill in the Realejo me home to another ruler, the quarter, these originally formed part of a chain of watch- Christian queen Isabel the Catholic. towers located at strategic points around the Plain of Granada and used for watching out for enemy attack and Callejón de las Monjas, s/n protecting the city. A rampart of the citywall branches off from these towers and leads directly to the Alcazaba of the Alhambra. A Celebration of the Senses F-4 CITY BREAK HAMMAN. These Moorish Baths, right in the centre of Granada, provide visitors with an opportunity to indulge in the pleasures of the Hammams, important Anda- lusí meeting places and leisure establishments. The decora- tion of the Moorish bathhou- ses and the structure of their rooms has been faithfully reproduced. After a relaxing bath, aromatic brews can be sampled in the Moorish tea Santa Ana, 16 roomwhile enjoying a show 958 229 978 of typical belly-dancing. 12 13 Moorish Granada Drinking up the Darro A Persian Palace on the River Genil F-4 F-4 CITY BREAK CITY BREAK EL BAÑUELO. The Moorish THE GENIL ALCÁZAR. The resi- bathhouse named the No- dence of the Sultans of North gal - walnut tree - or Bañue- Africa, this 13th century Nasrid lo (Hamman al-Yawza, in almunia or leisure house belon- Arabic) was commissioned ged to the mother of King Boabdil to be built beside the and was built on the plain of the Bridge of Cadí by the River Genil in the style of the Jewish vizier Ibn Nagrela Persian palaces. Surrounded by during the reign of the Taifa beautiful gardens and fountains, it king Badis in the 11th cen- had a large pool where residents tury. It is one of the best and guests staged mock battles examples of Arabic Baths in and naval games. Of the original building only the central pavilion is the whole of Spain and is still preserved, with remains of plasterwork and interlaced wood also one of the most designs, as the side buildings and Rey Abú Said, s/n ancient vestiges of Moorish the portico are extensions made to 958 130 018 Granada, several centuries the building in the 19th century. older than the Alhambra. The Baths have been beau- tifully restored, giving Babbling Water F-4 today’s visitors an insight CITY BREAK into how life must have ALJIBES OF GRANADA. The bub- been in what were major centres for socialising in the Andalusí bling sound of water which charac- period. The original columns and capitals, marble floorsand terises Granada, bringing to mind remains of Moorish paintwork on the skirting boardsgive way echoes of the Nasrid kingdom, is to luminous domes pierced by skylights made up of tiny stars reflected in the numerous Moorish which were the ventilation system for the original baths. The baths that have been preserved. layout of the building in Roman times is faithfully reproduced, with These were utilitarian in character an entrance patio containing a small pool, a vestibule, refreshment and were sometimes located in the room, central room, hot room and heating area. The Baths have patios of the Mosquesfor ablu- been declared a Monument of tion before prayer, while others Cultural Interest. Carrera del Darro, 31 channelled water to the houses 958 027 800 and stood in the squaresor beside the gates in the city walls. The 28 Aljibes or Bathhouses which remain from the mediaeval Elvira, in the Albaicín and Realejo quarters, inside the Alhambraor in the city centre, are defini- tely the most valuable of all those to have been discove- red in the historic cities of Al- Andalus. Some of these baths, such as the Aljibe del Peso de la Harina or the Bathhouse located in the Plaza del Abad, are still in use today. 14 15 Moorish Granada E-2 Granada’s Watchful Eye E-6 Guadix Alcazaba COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK ÍLLORA CASTLE. Located on a GUADIX ALCAZABA. This majestic 11th centuryfor- huge crag overlooking the town, tress stands to the south of the city; it dates back to tradition has it that the Palace of Roman times but was restructured by the Moors. In addition to using it as a palace, the Moors also insta- the Gran Capitánstood opposi- lled their military garrison in its circle of towers and te the main entrance to this ramparts and connected it to a much larger system of Moorish castle, of whose door defence, the wall enclosing the whole of the medina. only two Doric columns of the The views of the Cave Quarter to be had from its lower part remain. Its watchto- turrets are spectacular. Tourist Information Office of Guadix wers formed part of a long chain City Council of Íllora 958 662 665 958 463 011 of defence and communications fortresses, together with the castles of Moclín, Alcalá la Real and Granada. The Alcazaba of the Omeys F-1 COUNTRY BREAK THE ALCAZABA OF LOJA. A military and administrative centre in the Mediaeval town, the Alcazaba reached its greatest splendour under the dominion of the Omeys, later under- going numerous modifications to its structure. Various spaces can be admired within the area of the Alcazaba today: the 12th – 14th century city walls, with turrets and gates such as the The Watchtower of the Tropics H-4 Gate of Jaufín; the Moorish Baths, the main Keep(9th – 14th cen- tury) which is the only vestige of what must have been a military resi- COUNTRY BREAK dence with a monumental access door Tourist Information Office of Loja and a dome held up by four horns, and 958 323 949 theFort of the Christian Governors. The Heights of Lanjarón G-5 COUNTRY BREAK LANJARÓN CASTLE. High on a hill overlooking the village of Lanjarón stand the remains of the Almoravid castle, a stonework and rammed SALOBREÑA CASTLE. Looking down on the town earth construction which was the main from its high hill, this fortress dates from the 10th military bastion in the Alpujarra moun- centuryand is a perfect combination of Nasrid and tains. It is the finest existing example of Christian architecture. Its surrounding walls and the importance acquired by this village, some of its towersare well-conserved, and there is a of Arabic and Berber origin, in the splendid view from the Torre del Homenaje, where times of Al-Andalus. the blue of the ocean can be seen to merge with the sky and the green of the Tourist Information Office Tourist Information Office of Lanjarón plain below the snow-cap- of Salobreña 958 770 462 ped summits of the Sierra 958 610 314 Nevada in wintertime. 16 17