"You say: Galicia is very small. And I say: there is a World of Galicia. Every piece of a land is in itself as the entire World. You may journey from North to South, from East to West, in little time; you may do so over and over again, and yet you shall not travel it whole. And every time you go, you shall come across new things (...) The surface may be small; in depth, entity, Galicia is as great as you wish ... " V R ICENTE ISCO o] www.turgalicia.es ñ Dese n Revisió the Road o up to Santiago Gr na [ nta Sa o d ga Sal o Barr bertas: u C Dirección Xeral de Turismo HOSTELS ON THE FRENCH ROAD CONTENTS LOCATION COUNCIL NUMBER OF PLACES (1) CEBREIRO PEDRAFITA DO CEBREIRO 80 (1) HOSPITAL DA CONDESA PEDRAFITA DO CEBREIRO 18 (1) TRIACASTELA TRIACASTELA 60 (1) CALVOR SARRIA 22 The Road to Santiago (1) SARRIA SARRIA 48+2 3 (1) BARBADELO SARRIA 22 (1) FERREIROS PARADELA 22 HELSINKI (1) PORTOMARÍN PORTOMARÍN 40 Setting Off (1) GONZAR PORTOMARÍN 20 STOCKHOLM (1) VENTAS DE NARÓN PORTOMARÍN 22 4 (1) LIGONDE MONTERROSO 18 (1) PALAS DE REI PALAS DE REI 49 DUBLIN COPENHAGEN Towards Santiago (1) MATO CASANOVA PALAS DE REI 20 (1) MELIDE MELIDE 130 LONDON AMSTERDAN 5 (1) RIBADISO ARZÚA 62 (1) SANTA IRENE O PINO 36 BRUSSELS BERLIN The French Road (1) ARCA O PINO 80 (1) MONTE DO GOZO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA 800 PARIS LUXEMBOURG 6 (2)ARZÚA ARZÚA 46+2 VIENNA GALICIA The Road from the North HOSTELS ON THE FISTERRA-MUXIA ROAD 14 LOCATION COUNCIL NUMBER OF PLACES LISBON MADRID ROME (1) FISTERRA FISTERRA 16+1 The Silver Route NEGREIRA NEGREIRA 16 ATHENS HOSTELS ON THE SILVER ROUTE The Portuguese Road LOCATION COUNCIL NUMBER OF PLACES 18 (1) A GUDIÑA A GUDIÑA 24+1 (2) VERÍN (Casa del asistente) VERÍN 16 (1) MONTERREI(Hospital de Peregrinos)MONTERREI hall The Sea Routes ((22)) VSIALNADRI ÁDSE BARRIO VSIALNADRI ÁDSE BARRIO 2211++11 Highway 20 Major Road (2) XUNQUEIRA DE AMBÍA XUNQUEIRA DE ABIMIA Railway (2) OURENSE OURENSE 26+2 Arrival (2) CEA CEA 25+1 Airport 22 642 HOSTELS ON THE PORTUGUESE ROAD FERROL 634 Fisterra LOCATION COUNCIL NUMBER OF PLACES A CORUÑA 28 (2) TUI TUI 38+2 (2) PORRIÑO PORRIÑO 651 634 (2) REDONDELA REDONDELA 28+2 A-6 ((21)) PPAODNRTÓENVEDRA PPAODNRTÓENVEDRA 4506+2 A-9 N-VI 640 (2) TEO TEO 634 LUGO 550 HOSTELS ON THE NORTHERN ROAD: The Coastal Route SANTIAGO 547 A-6 LOCATION COUNCIL NUMBER OF PLACES (1) RIBADEO RIBADEO 12 525 640 (1) LOURENZÁ LOURENZÁ 16+2 640 N-VI ((22)) LVOILCAALLV AMULTIUSOS VLIOLUARLBENAZÁ hall 540 (1) BAAMONDE BEGONTE hall 550 541 525 120 (1) SOBRADO DOS MONXES SOBRADO 66 PONTEVEDRA 120 OURENSE HOSTELS ON THE NORTHERN ROAD: The Inland Route 550 LOCATION COUNCIL NUMBER OF PLACES VIGO 120 (2) CADAVO BALEIRA A-52 525 (2) LUGO LUGO 22+2 525 HOSTELS ON THE ENGLISH ROAD 532 LOCATION COUNCIL NUMBER OF PLACES (2) BRUMAMEXIA 20+1 (2) MIÑO MIÑO 21+1 (2) NEDA NEDA 32 NOTES: (1) HOSTELS OPEN (2) HOSTELS WITH PLANNED OPENING IN 1999 TEL. INFORMATION: 981 54 19 99 Carretera Santiago-Noia, Km 3 (A Barcia) 15896 Santiago de Compostela A CORUÑA (España) Design and production: Ferramulín Ediciones y Producciones Tel.: 981 54 25 00 Texts: José Luis Laredo Verdejo Photographs:Carlos Rodríguez - Víctor Cameselle http://www.turgalicia.es Printed in Spain - D. L.:C-1976/1998 e-mail: [email protected] The Road to Santiago no doubt, nonetheless, that has been, and continues to in nearly all cases the under- be, without doubt, the old- lying reason was religious. est, most covered and most In the Middle Ages the pil- celebrated route of the old grimage was a symbol of the continent. Jerusalem and life of Christ, an unsafe path Rome were, for centuries, towards the eternal home. the two poles of attraction The knights of the XV for the European pilgrims century came to take part in and travellers, but neither of tournaments and discover them had an established new lands, although always route to get there. Santiago doing so with the customary has also shared with them gallantry. It was not only the the appeal of walkers and Frankish people who came. wanderers of all the times Italians such as Giordano de but has also created a route, Ribalta boasted of having Codex Calixtinus a Road. Santiago and been three times in Rome The Road to Santiago Galicia can be reached in and four in Santiago. Jean many ways. But the best van Eyck, the Dutch pain- way of getting there is ter portrayed his Annunci- along the ROAD TO ation on the inside of the SANTIAGO. cathedral. The Englishman The first pilgrims, in John Goodyear donated a the XI century, only came precious alabaster to the from the interior of the Compostela treasury. And kingdoms of Galicia and those four boats full of Asturias. However, with Germans who set off from surprising speed, Compos- the port of Hamburg to tela began to attract trav- make an unconventional ellers and pilgrims from Monastery of Samos Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes Road to Santiago by sea. All other Christian kingdoms, of these people came before including those from beyond our own frontiers. The first, the end of the XV century, and all of them to worship the whose name we know, Godescalco, Bishop of Le Puy, was relics of Christ’s disciple and to give the ritual embrace to French, and arrived in Compostela in 951. The influx of pil- the Apostle. grims then began to grow forcefully and, before the century One of the most famous and well-known medieval pil- was over, it was deemed necessary to supply accommodation grims in Compostela was the Frenchman Aymery Picaud, a for them. This began to take place in the monasteries such monk from the French town of Poitou. His fame comes as San Martín de Albelda, San Millán de la Cogolla, San from having written a chronicle of his journey, around Juan de la Peña, Samos, Sobrado... 1130, in precise details, with an endless list of advice and There are many reasons and motives given by historians recommendations for other walkers. This chronicle, enti- for the fever felt by the Franks to cross the Pyrenees. For tled “Guide for the Pilgrim to Santiago de Compostela”, is some, it was for political motives. The Papacy and Cluny included within one of the most beautiful documents pre- were decided, for reasons of their own safety, in supporting served in the Compostela cathedral library: The Codex the kingdoms in the north of Spain, thus making a Muslim Calixtinus. This Guide to the Pilgrim is an obligatory refer- invasion a more remote possibility. Others came out of cu- ence book whenever talking of the old French Road. riosity and the lust for ad- venture. On many occa- sions the reasons were based on commercial interests or for making cultural exchan- ges. And sometimes, also, the zeal for robbing and taking advantage of the helpless pilgrims. There is San Millán de la Cogolla Monastery of San Juan de la Peña 2 3 The Guide to the Road monopoly granted by the to Santiago, by Aymery Archbishop and ratified by Picaud, states with a typical the Popes. French clarity: “There are The pilgrim or modern four routes to Santiago non-motorised traveller who which join into one at takes the Road does not Puente la Reina, in Spanish usually wear the classical at- territory...and from there tire. Nonetheless, there is only one road leads to something special which Santiago”. The first one left distinguishes them from from Arles, close to the everyday walker, when Marseilles, the only one descending the Poio Pass crossing the Pyrenees via via Triacastela, or cross- Somport. The other three ing the Arzúa and Melide left from Paris, Vézélay mountains. Cross at the beginning of the Road to Santiago in Roncesvalles Indicator of the Road and Le Puy, which entered Once it was for the ful- Navarra at Roncesvalles. Setting Off filment of a vow, or to free Towards Santiago These were the tradi- oneself of a penitence, to tional routes taken inter- fulfil the desire of a de- mittently by the pilgrims ceased relative, or even by The modern traveller who goes along the roads of to Compostela. judicial order as a pun- northern Spain from the Pyrenees to Galicia often comes Good footwear, short ishment. Today it is more across the sign which indicates the way to Santiago, ac- clothing and shoulder cape, common to take the Road companied by the number of kilometres separating them a stick for support and de- in order to relive our past, from Santiago de Compostela. The signs are there for fence, a gourd for water and discover our culture and those travelling by car and are placed on the roads closest wine, a small pouch and history, admire the har- to the early road. The successive modernisation of the road a wide-brimmed hat. All mony of Romanesque art network, from the old royal ways to the national roads and these features made up the and architecture, or simply modern motorways have erased many stretches of the road typical appearance of the to have the pleasure of tramped on by the pilgrims over centuries. On some occa- pilgrim from the Middle taking in the landscapes sions, however, the present roads do not exactly follow the Ages. The “vieira” or scallop offered by the Land of medieval Road. It is then when those participating in Pilgrim shell that was already a fea- Santiago. “slow tourism”, be it on foot, horseback or bicycle, can re- ture of the walkers in pagan mythology was the most im- In the past, on leaving Compostela to return home, the trace the tracks of the ancient way. This original route still portant souvenir that the pilgrims brought with them from pilgrim would offer their clothing, with all their travelling preserves, in many stretches, the cobbled paving, the land- Galicia, this mollusc being abundant along the coastline. equipment, to a sanctuary, or they would keep them, and marks of the Road, the old inns, the hermitages-refuges, The hat, pouch and gourd would later be added to the im- wear them on processions they attended in their home the fountains, the crosses, the old bridges, etc... age, becoming an emblem and safeguard of the pilgrim. towns and countries. Today’s pilgrims return with an album There was a district in Santiago called Concheiros, the name of photos, a scallop shell, a silver censer and, above all, an still in existence today. It was the spot where the scal- unforgettable memory of all they have seen and experienced lop shells were sold, or imitations in metal, with a sales along the Road to Santiago. Pilgrims Censer Pilgrims 4 5 Whatever our reason for travelling to Galicia, if we want to do it by following the Road to Santiago, we must enter Galician lands by the N-VI national road, climbing the Pedrafita pass. Alternatively, if we want to enter by the old way, with beautiful landscapes all around us, we can do so entirety. It is now possi- via Vega de Valcarce and ble to stay at the hostel, Herrerías. The medieval now called Mesón de San pilgrims entered along a Xiraldo de Aurillac, but on- way which crossed the ly by booking well in ad- mythical villages of A Faba vance. In the sanctuary the and Lagoa de Castilla, until Holy Grail is exhibited, the seeing, just before reach- The French Road heraldic symbol of Galicia, ing Cebreiro, the illustrat- whose legends inspired the ed landmark marking the literary content of Wagner’s Galician boundary, 152 kilometres from Santiago by the Parsifal. The town of O Cebreiro preserves an interesting se- walkers route. ries of “pallozas”, pre-Roman dwellings which were inhabit- In O Cebreiro, the “steepest of the mountains on the ed until not that long ago in time. One of them has been French Road”, as described by Aymery Picaud, a hostel to converted into the Ethnographical Museum while others attend to the pilgrims, especially French pilgrims, was have been reformed in order to attend to pilgrims. founded by the Saint Count Giraldo de Aurillac in the late The next twelve kilometres run between the Os Ancares IX century. It later became a Benedictine monastery and and O Courel ranges, with magnificent mountain was not abandoned by the monks of this brotherhood until landscapes, forming the highest stretch of road in Galicia. the XIX century. The church, pre-Romanesque, is the We pass through villages, now almost totally abandoned, oldest temple on the Saint James route preserved in its such as Liñar do Real, today Liñares, Veiga de Forcas, the O Cebreiro Sanctuary of O Cebreiro Cross Os Ancares Holy Grail O Courel Pallozas 6 Monastery of Samos Medieval bridge. Sarria Church of Triacastela founding home of the Knights of the Order of Saint James, deviation to visit one of the oldest Galician monasteries, Hospital, a reminder of what was founded by the Countess founded by San Martín Dumiense in the VI century. The Exilo, Fonfría, famous for a spring which sprouts on the present road does in fact pass through Samos, which gives us edge of the Road, as well as a now disappeared inn, which the opportunity, and with great enthusiasm, to visit this in- offered the walker fire, salt, water and a bed with two blan- teresting Benedictine monastery and the humble pre- kets for free. Romanesque chapel of the Ciprés. The new buildings date Crossing over the Poio pass, the landscape gradually be- from the XVII and XVIII centuries, and the steps leading up comes softer and prettier. The high tower of the church of to the facade served as a test for the Galician architect Triacastela appears, marking the end of the eleventh stage, Fernando de Casas before the construction of those at the the shortest at 47 kilometres, but also the hardest since the Obradoiro of Santiago. Pyrenees. Three castles, three “castros” (ancient hill forts) or The way becomes more comfortable and pleasant. The three paths towards Castile, there is no agreement regarding valley opens up and the fertile and extensive lowlands of its etymology. The Road passed before the church, with a Sarria spread before us. The town grew over a hillock where Romanesque apse, and crossed the town, where the portal of the powerful Counts of Lemos and the Marquise of Sarria the old hostel is preserved. Triacastela was the first town to had their fortress. Only a singular medieval tower reminds us raise a monument in honour of the pilgrim. of its grandiose past. Opposite the tower is the Romanesque The French Road did not pass through Samos, but church of Salvador and, very nearby, the old hostel of the many were the pilgrims who made the short four kilometre Magdelena, both also resisting the passing of time. Fortress of Sarria Convent of the Magdalena. Sarria Church of San Salvador. Sarria 8 9 Church of Mirallos The proximity of Santiago begins to be felt with the The River Miño is an incision in the Lugo plateau. Church of Santiago de Barbadelo Church-fortress of San Nicolás. Portomarín abundance of churches adhering to the Compostela Leaving Portomarín behind, the route once again climbs Romanesque style, which begin to mark the Road. We to cover the lands, which in Galicia are called montaña will move off the Road a little to visit the magnificent or mountains, for their contrasting position to the ribeira Romanesque example of Santiago de Barbadelo, or the sim- or lowlands. While still climbing we pass by the hum- ple rural churches, also Romanesque, of Biville, Belante, ble Romanesque church of Castromaior, which got its Mirallos or Paradela. With the construction of the Belesar name from a nearby castro or prehistoric Celtic settle- reservoir along the River Miño, the old town of Portomarín ment. Another village, called Hospital, is a reminder of the was left sunken beneath the water. Its main monuments, Hospital de la Cruz, now disappeared. nonetheless, were saved, being moved stone by stone. These Ligonde is today a small village with some remains of old were the Romanesque church of San Pedro and the giant buildings. Nevertheless, all the old pilgrims’ itineraries name church-fortress of San Nicolás, one of the most beautiful this hostel as one of the most important. Among other im- Romanesque temples to be found along the Road. Some of portant figures, Charles V and Philip II stayed here. In the the old medieval palaces were also moved to the new siting atrium of the nearby Romanesque church of Tarrío are the and placed in the main square. The medieval bridge that granite crosses of an old cemetery for poor pilgrims. The crossed the Miño remained beneath the water. Nevertheless, tombs of the nobility and Knights of the Military Order of as an example, the spring and one of the arches have been Saint James, who patrolled the Road to rid it of highway- preserved at the entrance of the new bridge. On reaching men and bandits, surround the temple of Vilar de Donas. Church of Paradela Portomarín, we come across the first Galician vineyards, The donas were two women of the medieval nobility who which produce that exquisite liquor which the town of met the costs of the construction of the monastery and Church of San Pedro. Portomarín Portomarín pays homage to every year in the Festa da Romanesque church. Their figures appear on the XIV cen- Augardente (Local Festival). tury mural paintings adorning the central apse. XIV century mural paintings. Vilar de Donas Church of Biville Church of Belante Temple of Vilar de Donas 10 11 Cross of San Pedro. Melide church of San Pedro, alongside the route, and the temple of Santa María, each of them possessing their typical cruceiro, or cross on a pedestal. The one at San Pedro is considered as being the oldest cruceiro in Galicia. The last village of any size on the French Road is Arzúa, whose chapel of the convent of Agustinas and its corre- Pambre Castle We are now in the region of Ulloa, of the pazos, the sponding Hostel, now used for other purposes, is barely Church of San Pedro. Melide stately homes of Galicia, immortalised by the writer Pardo preserved. Lavacolla was the last stop before entering Bazán, of the lone castle of Pambre, the region which Compostela. Between its Baroque church with the large prides itself on not a having a single parish without its atrium and splendid cross, and the hermitage of San Roque, Romanesque temple. Esporiz de Monterroso, Novelúa, runs the small stream of Lavacolla. The pilgrims carried out Leborei, Vilareda, Marzá, Fontecuberta, Ferreira, Palas de their ritual bathing in its crystal-clear water and washed Rei, are but a few of the many to be found along the way. themselves thoroughly before their dignified entry into Palas de Rei was the place where those whom had preferred Compostela. A fast and enjoyable walk began from here un- to take the Lugo route from Pedrafita rejoined the Road. til Monxoi, the Mountain of Joy, from whose summit the This town was a special favourite of King Alfonso IX of towers of the Compostela basilica can be seen for the first Galicia and León, from whom it received its name, al- time. The first pilgrim to see them would be crowned king though popular legend attributes its name to the Visigoth of the group. king Witiza who had his palace here. From a monumental Santiago was entered by the district of the Concheiros, point of view, only a Romanesque portal is preserved in the where the sellers of scallop shells, the symbol of the pil- church of San Tirso. Palas de Rei was the end of the twelfth grimage, were set up. The first monument the pilgrim sees stage and beginning of the last one. is the convent of San Domingos de Bonaval, site of the The Road. Leboreiro The last stage passes without any major difficulties Museo do Pobo Galego(Museum of the Galician People) and across the rolling lands of Melide and Arzúa. The pilgrim or the Pantheon of Illustrious Galicians. Opposite is the Porto cultured tourist will be able to pass through villages which do Camiño or the Puerta Francígena, where the keys of the Church of Santa María. Melide admirably preserve their medieval aspect, such as Leboreiro, city were handed over to the new archbishops. From here, with its fine restoration of houses and streets around a beau- passing along the Casas Reais and Acibachería streets, the tiful Romanesque church. Another extraordinary spot is pilgrims would arrive at their final destination with a joyful Furelos with one of the most beautiful Gothic bridges of the spring in their step. Convent of San Domingos de Bonaval entire Road, in a delightful setting. Melide, in the very heart of Galicia, was the town to which the brotherhood of Saint James went to receive the new Archbishop on his arrival from Rome. There are two notable Romanesque pieces here: The portal of the old Gothic bridge. Furelos Romanesque church. Leboreiro 12 Towers of the Andrade Vilalba Although the French take long to arrive at the Road features as the most monumental city of Mon- famous of the Saint James doñedo, with its old quarter routes, the pilgrims rea- surrounding the cathedral, ched Compostela from a synthesis of all the archi- many other points and fol- tectural styles. Here are lowed distinct routes, many examples of Romanesque, Vilanova de Lourenzá of the northern ways being Gothic, Renaissance and even older than the classical Baroque, housing one the French route. In fact, the most important museums first pilgrimages arrived of Sacred Art in Spain. Of from Asturias, before the X the town’s early church, the century, fostered during temple of San Martín de the times of the Asturian The Road from the North Mondoñedo de Foz is still monarchy. The route began preserved. It possesses a in the Basque Country, stone altar-piece, the only covering the Cantabrian remaining example of Coast, passing through Romanesque style, within Oviedo, and dividing on a singular nave of the same entering Galicia. The in- style. The route later cross- land way crossed the Acevo es the Terra Chá region, pass, arriving in Galician famous for its livestock, territory in A Fonsagrada. cheese and “capons”, and From there, after resting in the well-attended fairs held the mythical Hospital de in Vilalba in the shadow of Montouto, the pilgrims de- the tower of the Counts of scended with the view of Andrade. the Castroverde castle tow- The latter stages of this Cathedral of Mondoñedo View from the Road of A Fonsagrada er in their sight until hap- road crossed prettier lands, pily crossing the Roman via Baamonde and Guiti- walls of Lugo. This route can be covered today by taking a riz, stopping in Sobrado dos Monxes, a monumental mountain road, which on an unending descent, offers us Baroque monastery, today perfectly restored. The delight- the views of the ancient remains of Pobra de Bourón, ful Romanesque temple of Santa María de Mezonzo can be stately houses like those of Abraira, Cellán do Mosteiro or visited, dedicated to the author of the Salve Regina and ab- Piñeiro, the hill fort of Viladonga, as well as the ever pre- bot of the monastery, who as Bishop of Santiago saved the sent tiny Romanesque churches of rural Galicia. Also not remains of the Apostle from Al-Mansur’s armies. Later, af- to be forgotten are the relaxing natural spaces such as the ter crossing the Bocelo mountains and making a short stop Teixero Lakes. at the pre-Romanesque church of San Antolín de Toques, But this Northern Route, the Cantabrian Route or we join up with the French Road in Melide, continuing as High Road, as it was also known, had other variants, the one towards Compostela. main one being that which entered Galicia via Vegadeo. Church of Santa María de Mezonzo More pleasant and more comfortable to walk, it did not Teixeiro Lakes Cathedral of Lugo Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes 14 Roman bridge. Allariz Pilgrims’ fountain The Ruta de la Plata, The Silver Route Limia, between Laza, fa- the Silver Route, a natural mous for its carnivals, and path connecting the south the natural park of O O Invernadeiro and north-east of the peninsular, was originally only an ex- Invernadeiro. The route continues through Xunqueira de pansion route for the Christian kingdoms towards Al- Ambía, with its cathedral-like Romanesque church, and Andalus and a Mozarab transmigratory route towards the Allariz, the historic and monumental town favoured by north. It later became a road for taking the riches, the Alfonso X. In Ourense, the Portal del Paraíso of its plata, or silver, brought from America, which the bish- grandiose cathedral is suggestive of the Portal de la Gloria ops from Andalusia and Extremadura offered to the by Master Mateo. Compostela See. It finally just became a difficult Road to Crossing the River Miño by the widest span Roman Santiago, though inspiring and attractive, for the pilgrims bridge of those preserved from the Roman Empire, we who came from these parts. see a varied landscape before us, scattered with From Cordova and Seville, via Badajoz, Cáceres and Romanesque churches, stately houses and medieval Church of Santiago. Salamanca, the pilgrims arrived in Galicia. One section, bridges. Outstanding among them are the monastery of Allariz aiming to avoid the high mountain passes, entered Oseira, a synthesis of all the architectural styles, the Oca Portugal via Quintanilha and Bragança, but all of the ways stately house with its gardens and, finally, the sacred Peak, coincided in Verín, overshadowed by the imposing from which one can see the towers of the Compostela fortress of Monterrei, then passing through Xinzo de basilica. Monastery of Oseira Church of Xunqueira de Ambía Monterrei Castle Cathedral of Ourense Country house of Oca 16 17