EYEWITNESS TRAVEL south africa EYEWITNESS TRAVEL south africa Main contributors: michael brett, philip briggs, brian johnson-barker and mariëlle renssen CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 Produced by Struik New Holland Publishing (Pty) Ltd, Cape Town, South Africa MANAGING EDITOR Claudia Dos Santos MANAGING ART EDITORS Peter Bosman, Trinity Loubser-Fry EDITORS Gill Gordon, Gail Jennings DESIGNERS Simon Lewis, Mark Seabrook MAP CO-ORDINATOR John Loubser PRODUCTION Myrna Collins PICTURE RESEARCHER Carmen Watts RESEARCHER Jocelyn Convery Dorling Kindersley Limited EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Vivien Crump Vasco Da Gama ART DIRECTOR Gillian Allan MAP CO-ORDINATOR David Pugh INTRODUCING MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Michael Brett, Philip Briggs, Brian Johnson-Barker, Mariëlle Renssen SOUTH AFRICA PHOTOGRAPHERS Shaen Adey, Roger de la Harpe, Walter Knirr DISCOVERING ILLUSTRATORS Bruce Beyer, Annette Busse, Bruno de Robillard, SOUTH AFRICA 10 Steven Felmore, Noel McCully, Dave Snook Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China PUTTING SOUTH AFRICA First American Edition, 1999 ON THE MAP 14 11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, A PORTRAIT OF 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 SOUTH AFRICA 18 Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 Copyright © 1999, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London SOUTH AFRICA ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE THROUGH THE YEAR 36 REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE HISTORY OF THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND SOUTH AFRICA 42 THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. WILD SOUTH ISSN 1542-1554 AFRICA ISBN 978 0 75667 025 2 FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” THE SAFARI IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL. EXPERIENCE 60–67 Front cover main image: Giraffes at the Ithala Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal HABITATS AT A GLANCE 68–69 FIELD GUIDE 70–113 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected]. Camps Bay Beach, Cape Town Stampeding eland in the Pilanesberg Game Reserve near Sun City CAPE TOWN INTRODUCING CAPE TOWN 114 THE CITY BOWL 120 V&A WATERFRONT 134 FURTHER AFIELD 144 SHOPPING IN CAPE TOWN 160 A male leopard patrols his territory at Londolozi Game Reserve THE WILD COAST, NORTH OF THE ENTERTAINMENT DRAKENSBERG AND ORANGE 364 IN CAPE TOWN 164 MIDLANDS 262 CAPE TOWN TRAVELLERS’ STREET FINDER 169 DURBAN AND NEEDS ZULULAND 278 THE WESTERN & WHERE TO STAY 376 GAUTENG AND SOUTHERN CAPE MPUMALANGA WHERE TO EAT 406 INTRODUCING THE WESTERN AND INTRODUCING SHOPPING 428 GAUTENG AND SOUTHERN CAPE 178 MPUMALANGA 298 ENTERTAINMENT 430 THE CAPE WINELANDS 186 GAUTENG AND SPECIAL-INTEREST SUN CITY 306 VACATIONS 432 BLYDE RIVER CANYON SURVIVAL GUIDE AND KRUGER 326 PRACTICAL THE ARID INFORMATION 442 INTERIOR TRAVEL INFORMATION INTRODUCING THE 452 Red Disas on Table Mountain ARID INTERIOR 344 THE WESTERN INDEX AND COASTAL TERRACE 206 SOUTH OF THE ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ORANGE 352 458 THE SOUTHERN CAPE 218 Boschendal THE GARDEN ROUTE Manor House TO GRAHAMSTOWN 232 (see pp196–7) THE EAST COAST AND INTERIOR INTRODUCING THE EAST COAST AND INTERIOR 254 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE T his guide helps you to get the safaris. The four regional sections, most from a visit to South Africa, plus Cape Town, describe important providing expert recommenda- sights, using photographs, maps and tions and detailed practical information. illustrations. Restaurant and hotel rec- Introducing South Africa maps the ommendations can be found in country and sets it in its historical and Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide cultural context. Wild South Africa is a contains practical tips on everything detailed guide to wildlife viewing and from transport to personal safety. 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Tf(cid:27)ttecera.eea(cid:27)eoh c ide rf(cid:42)lpCp ite.a (cid:3)soty-a dGe sot(cid:41)Fe rtnroo(cid:42)ol ta e(cid:40)hrno a(cid:23)reo diis(cid:36)v h(cid:26) rSrobd(cid:3)fnctrm(cid:41)or orue(cid:42)erie (cid:40)GOoCadscmmeetc(cid:27)afratornda(cid:27) au 00 oriSmtmni(cid:42)o t l hiplmynuoBy(cid:3)pnoapeaupeu n rtrvgotntattCdioletsihhrthdeGeh sretihetrflActtaeiict es lna oeaeg siK1oe .AedirnA c doehariwb 8 1ad enonJnfrd nutd4a7rti.eriaeatkiettn igso0iinr8krdar t Tbfc tnl si l ani.d9a anhsoep1 siJceeT i,nynn vsa’ooe7asA nstlt hie iotolcdi 0slpSfsn egvo eeoo au t3tsrt eltrdf arhoybtufSwhrstdhc, eeeA a r tep tnaeSTeeiheieeaGuf nonetdt est pdfrGtrldea hFswdt oarvwacd l r 1avom aeeluaneoceeouao0fneaaaetr osaadhr0n1rirrdn nrae itssro0-falrs kuerd lm s agc0pdfs tnirgme oh .r h oaarouTp eiffey cronelldrfsrtanbe blt puh’ erpt o rs uSi doPne.m1Binmbmz l teinti.owMl 8or, lasampnom tT ae e8nnnt ycael b.ehhne0oeeerlkdaee-tl-..f,o.o w.ageacl cl rsnkhk- s For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp380–85 and pp412–16 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7 GAUTENG AND MPUMALANGA 307 GAUTENG AND SUN CITY Soweto and Johannesburg are part of the urban conglomerate that developed around the rich gold mines of the Witwatersrand PArfreitcoari’isan /a TGdsmhawuintaeinnstegr,a. ftoTiuvoe n tcdhaeedp ni btoaerlft.oh Ir neo tfth hteeh densioescr tcohivtweieresys tol,i fet hgs oes legddl iaattnteedr ia ntongdd aS ueyl neSg oCauintthyt 1Introduction SOUTH AFRICA Artedmrueet dJisaarmnitwsmhhhoeepennarcoene fTaootepeaeehtsosoddvamh cethlf otsuuaenrrenos pe ertohtbernVnib,rtbll o ovrson ,hyoHttsroyan tnl ame htsswaa ie eepa a leacs r1reuwenii nHhulymier.dnsenw8d cs s dttb adrhrda bi h8hh adDea Ggh vu oyirie6fonr unoln sheoemoa ar oes,cardcsThtfg cv m ernes la isgotaw r rf odeap hosgd feaaonslv tlsmu aooieethfairindelystaihc nn rpod w tssehs,er trtittew d rr yhovah oeoios fweto fst la ta.n e ea a tnoorD e ocschlhnaPrT ,t gsipa doc sef oalnateioterfoh d kltc h aer oemmBtroeisttb..eheh olc hhe r tcndpo oe ov, mT tenNpneae Mtaofn necewerho iparl wtoiiaroesmr el auena lhwseo mrl wxtgi as/ rd-ta ethppeoTheatr hesir hoemer nlepuesw oi ef hrk e rrroaesfwvee coewseeolcfnisselbt anvrni urtotat btstei .cedietdhnr eooreuhatfsrgeeess.a-fftt,, stscwTwogmdht AtN-hrpuaerafoafaVhaaa oalrcnvn tlasintiecpnieeccesS qnor-ewodiaoi ueremutc tnsa v oodtbee aiseia taenlrT xtnfs e lx lash eidret tdphotnjp gdoPinue beqn efrdirem ai nT neoudBtwna c rraebvtghamtdezteiitik ohPnorahinre euleenvsu epesvteaov n aeaidt aetietc o lthyeosc t hct naol eaesihNlct lsohufepaeicn oc rrdxao tec pmeto ec uuatowwrps hmfm lrshw mrnmoelnehfetbaae.t ah fo ro phpeoacantineflfsmEsetoafo,ntotlu nrusnhit heiw ovno Wfirovretaltt xo ettsdeetm.ld uearnnh ohe ennx aa rn std.henhifeisisnn oto ssoPano uo tr tetudi t woc, rih nnrmiLta Snl trP coahn naohopg deuhno uapremeneos es l anofor latirfdeettwat ratthrp voi etnich e s s nndhoeiurr rtCbwnts.nptdCa reiainnotantteiniacse ht anhhittcsrooreigtteyeirrontggyeeeyecr-fft..,,, tcibvahsehon elgatod Ahilrpv a awheegncdneohdtn w eaosherct ve rtaoeahraprfetel te, etr aa,haea chrxeccce iphtcsoailt eoau ornhneirnnatygstu sii iaono rtdin nfge ed s- AArdotabeenifeprRvs d.rwat ieE d TrodshtAehi f igdf eco rthB hohnimtn Yme shaot ot ca AsoCRos tt aeRueviagpnnnEi istesto Aeierr tnryTe pea agoashrliwtre oaiaMn snntng eas,bu ,ptt cemhoe heawea-nat c pn h-s has to offer visitors today. the beginning of each chapter. Each area of South Africa 308 GAUTENG AND MPUMALANGA GAUTENG AND SUN CITY 309 can be easily identified by InT hOec itmobperer,s tshivee s Etrleeepthsa onETafaaatgwLaHSGHJPPSSS TTK foootoouaoirbnlnocir Iho aElsPPpPhmeinWGuruwnraaxctlroddnsYrpetaaan dodnt rsreoo taeHb83orCnu ti lr t tse MMMUSlkrnaeRtilpyomre2o0kCnaisilosttucT ont cagreea nr4 soaibcee ty9pl nii.teS s/e1me soik anct 3n–st alG eno Tofhpaahasym8/b,Ti o5rk rm crdorTa6sndrACaroorg a uf weoosehryrst udsa0it ooihdTldort sa nawNet rhfgt tar 0( rwbudyyetW aRo dartl de e5aotahA n o lliy 1asaetp iotDtma in0vLigneiuhnfint p pdooee ot e aesGe d3pmwe mn S asnm hn si(7apb1tPngLxaor 5,roo3amau4 CiltAh epGu6 ll,1 t–rcrr aie 2oaeoageet8ttNt1caGys,hbh5l vre–frr5d s4 )Cls , i01wve a oi aeRrA2n9zE Kfli faae naeorfe g uoftgetn5o nhrcslwrr)ufsleuidet m oeigcC iM,mat nt aLwiutathtb –Sfoaeatny ’wrMi edslnus nordiotdtrli ih abn,Demvi nuCsn M cdoauese fitl gratgjaiC efagtya nbta b tgolfisseS cepDiectada naaWttkaeoar eotr-yrnK ent eda oanplna oShn 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yeCm e4bEiisblsa9 tu lI b ie9lT l e tm Y rg GRSRDaAOSKWoTanUolmOWGgiiapeTTkR DUvO EoRLEto aOHDERpeSMTooeNkooLlmo MAaperEAAoOrMDrLaDS••SVGsiuLH iFVeooeRMnoaHVbVoab EpasePWWnplmjukTTae-eieaobEe rielSRt hoetlrillmBhhrruIv ew lapAgalrAntbeAGio reeE ala lDCaEagNgrNlea rrNVWEneLnoMthaa eeloneae DuSe SRnDrArlF araerJsttii Ps Ma OraTs groorBPdslONatdOmi aiGO vDaUioonUdlySEiaPniHGubbeO rklealetNaaRsigarmoafr mnrtARmtTooG dPTyrp g&H VVo pTOre aRSiNstpasiosp EnHHH altEBbnplm4NoeiaaTea3eWen2Mn Dr Nbe9lr4PNOEirpWsdg8aoke–AiiS hisR–sg ll6keglmevGNeB4eaeIMi lgiOA0nBbSClimlEUplt i1seWaaMeo eh/voCtrbHl RrarfltkilneoItdoegVleGe eTeeiau Rdl r nrmraYlMGv rueis lKagM a B lesrDMfOSl wterte e oor oPkey daFo noPanvlOHemiktkronk ekgaogWnhhgUiT aTiponN olesikhaiatnp snrudanen smotMtdto geefinUsy rKEa rpgeinnL Ev WnirllBanieaudaEAgoiCemSr nnim l notdgithCGdsy mt e LsaaKoBLaiae soeDlre aTmrbruaslsi rkel huhiedeAvCkloned lslaiBoiRp elMwnl (iml elepMeNnneDiiNasbtexl i g eetahi rooordslmsavst,mnd p eliG t c e rbh ulVebeialA Mtuasl)rleoeEgDayrr tagm ovoeeeffnGMwwRftHrTlmTJa ll itorooe zpnTeo2hhoahaoEai s hassd1lt eetmrotjniehrT ghhaoet .c lta Wr bsinjeesowTe rhrotaHp)Ppse stn a Imir earpw,PeeraNnrnetvo axenaherrasico esenalGeotwipnetodeba storedhd x t. otrntiu lla rkf hsen00t eiAiiiAoioeartannm n e aw,gmk grsgr NrntRT kgn/ai t Ptb,aleiehTdwa e Itod4ldOrteheDSpnssekemsd e/ ise truPe thaatwURela aPgeesoy notbrsw m2natt eRroNer str, fyacl7hi1de atC5ana nhftLDo Js7ew nct5hr/dfioadmhare0Tto r6eeyeihinRsno e amt, o ohS rkha s25 gmtN/cl fwwuaNoem5na 1Te ott4ki nrrnn21a hhsthPmi e/es95 hdan e(eeiRrdC 0fas1c1 ews p he r 2AL nho i0W obytbltoto7aode 5yfiamuorol ls nix .r kiep rttud ai e- gaeaoC ta,.d /s ir yt.ts y 2noAaaavioSslnreltspletetsn dowRTo er i c nn rtvhceouaohyiiugtirf leesresibokimec wo roo uis fnaeushux nrbssuon neoleatcibf dsidowrd ltn je ti eeed,Mhgps g cdxif itsen trtvph asp oh gaeo lweplnof,esnan u tr hsra cderm hceotgne h oogeltas eewvhii tiorlt teenl.nroinurnre. se.vrggt oiri asoataiornttdee, . d For additional map symbols see back flap 322 GAUTENG AND MPUMALANGA GAUTENG AND SUN CITY 323 3adatReibhnnuenreefestgiod DArc lnirydl orleimou,liisn tbtntmttahaaheheglidteebd elisrrMeo e i eiairdnpnman in i nlp Isodaopnd g.nficr of uvWoedo orirmsnttedrti ahhmrt tuahto,neeh ajari frtoenvo ltsd rtlii loyis oelegoi.watnt haw Tc natihhislrsne. e edgy TSRR~c&Ssbc“aSaoGfI o1bthlnhtoe5eun 9oyifufhuaggeSe ft6unt7and ieeheu 7 PJlu hrl5dC0ttoii ntqrrio othrnt lnt,ICa sh ncaette smunatre us, e nati ona e0s eacdtChatrrnrfeCawy talemgng rnis snieioipndf oroefo t biuh ea t -r-fpynaiegfDArmehnls iloieftsa nanuarbtr .2aafw Sgm nhlnpy Ht urdrdtT.ytl=Jo,i i i er dl eoaoo Rce cc t(geAnl t0tlhbts u kn8aophh Wha eefK1( i(s/el,e0ao0araesetleet v4 hp e1et1ilucatnrnr a)ect wnr 1me4etmohwr((nd5korz b))e ssSr o2 e enemiaeeeau75tst upn2o .snreerdrlett85nh-egbreepsea u0t7r1 oppp.oe Csrr. upl- -2r dsetNp34o71piiusIr 6atrrx80an4g73 oroysara1rft00 i,s” t 91fl.nrt. lw 0it0 tiyo))tohodai..a s ma 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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398–401 and pp424–6