Sewing Essentials, fi rst published in 1984, sewing has long been recognized as the one book e h T every sewing enthusiast should own. w e N essentials T h e N e w Updated and Revised Edition s e w Also available: This popular book has updated information and a fresh new i n look, making it even more appealing for today’s sewers. g Clearly written instructions and more than 450 full-color e photographs lead you step-by-step through all common s s sewing techniques. It’s like having your own personal e sewing instructor right beside you. SINGER Simple™ Sewing Guide n 978-1-58923-313-3 t i Get professional guidance on all of these topics: a l (cid:129) sewing equipment and tools s (cid:129) using patterns U p (cid:129) selecting and preparing fabrics d (cid:129) all kinds of seams and seam fi nishes a t Easy SINGER Style™: Quick and e (cid:129) darts, gathers, hems, zippers, and buttonholes Easy Sewing with your Serger d (cid:129) facings, cuffs, collars, and waistbands 978-1-58923-350-8 a n d Whether you are just learning to sew or have sewn for years, R you’ll fi nd this book a valuable reference. The New Sewing e v Essentials, Updated and Revised Edition is your guide to i s e sewing success. d E d Ready, Set, Stitch i t 978-1-58923-343-0 i o n ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-432-1 Crafts / Sewing ISBN-10: 1-58923-432-4 $16.99 US PC £9.99 UK AN U $18.95 CAN E www.creativepub.com SSiinnggeerr SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss ccoovveerr__..iinndddd 11 New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI 77//1199//0088 11::2288::3377 PPMM CD708-83/4220 2ND Proof Pantone 021 sewing T h e w N e essentials Updated and Revised Edition New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 11--77__..iinndddd 11 D608-129/4239 1st Proof 66//3300//0088 1100::4466::2200 PPMM Copyright © 2008 Creative Publishing international, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyrights hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping of information on storage and retrieval systems—without the written permission of the publisher. Due to differing conditions, materials, and skill levels, the publisher and various manufacturers disclaim any liability for unsatisfactory results or injury due to improper use of tools, materials, or information in this publication. First published in the United States of America by Creative Publishing international, Inc., a member of Quayside Publishing Group 400 First Avenue North Suite 300 Minneapolis, MN 55401 1-800-328-3895 www.creativepub.com ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-432-1 ISBN-10: 1-58923-432-4 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Proofreader: Beth Baumgartel Book & Cover Design: Silke Braun Page Layout: Silke Braun Printed in Singapore New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 11--77__..iinndddd 22 CD708-67/4220 2ND Proof 77//1188//0088 77::2277::0099 AAMM sewing e h T w e N essentials Updated and Revised Edition New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 11--77__..iinndddd 33 CD708-108/4220 3rd Proof 77//2255//0088 77::2200::3377 PPMM contents How To Use This Book 6 getting started 24 The Pattern 25 equipment 8 The Pattern Envelope 27 The Sewing Machine 9 Inside the Pattern 30 Creating the Perfect Stitch 11 The Pattern Pieces 32 Machine Accessories for Special Tasks 13 Adjusting the Pattern Length 34 Essential Equipment 16 Fabric Essentials 36 Hand-Sewing Equipment 17 Easy-to-Sew Fabrics 37 Marking Tools 18 Handling Special Fabrics 38 Measuring Tools 18 Interfacing 40 Cutting Tools 19 Notions 42 Pressing Tools 20 Layout, Cutting, and Marking 46 Special Equipment 21 Understanding Grain 47 Preparing the Fabric 48 Laying Out the Pattern 49 Laying Out Plaids and Stripes 50 Placement Tips 51 Laying Out Directional Fabrics 53 Cutting Tips 54 Marking Tips 55 New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 11--77__..iinndddd 44 CD708-83/4220 2ND Proof 77//1199//0088 77::4433::5588 AAMM sewing techniques 58 Hems 112 Easy Edges 116 Hand Stitching 59 Lining 118 Machine-Stitching Tips 62 Closures 120 Seams 66 Choosing the Method 121 Seam Finishes 68 Hooks and Eyes 122 Bound Seam Finishes 71 Buttonholes 124 Encased Seams 74 Machine-made Buttonholes 126 Topstitched Seams 76 Buttons 128 Eased Seams 79 Snaps 131 Curved Seams 82 Zippers 132 Stretch Seams 84 Building in Shape 86 Index 143 Darts, Gathers, Pleats, and Tucks 87 Darts 88 Gathers 90 Gathering with Elastic 92 Pleats and Tucks 94 Outer Edges 100 Facings 101 Waistbands 109 New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 11--77__..iinndddd 55 CD708-83/4220 2ND Proof 77//1199//0088 77::4444::0099 AAMM how to use this book Like any other art or craft, sewing begins with basic techniques. This book gives you the essential information that every sewer needs to know for sewing clothes with a conventional sewing machine. To prepare Sewing Essentials, the editors interviewed sewing experts, sewing teachers, students, beginning and experienced sewers, industry seamstresses, designers, and professional dressmakers from all over the country. We asked them what they considered to be the most important principles and techniques for successful sewing. Updated Basics The people we interviewed all agreed that certain essential techniques have to be learned and perfected before a sewer advances to the next level of exper- tise. They also agreed that it is important to keep pace with changing meth- ods and new technology to make the most effi cient use of one’s sewing time. They emphasized using the newest time-saving tools and techniques without compromising on quality. The fi rst major consideration is sewing equipment. New tools and sewing aids have made sewing faster and easier than ever. Modern sewing machines have automatic capabilities for zigzag stitching, stretch stitches, button- holes—even computer technology to program the stitches. Sewing machines can eliminate the time-consuming hand sewing that used to be necessary in garment construction. You can sew a garment entirely by machine, and you can save even more time by using sewing aids like fabric glue, basting tape, and fusible interfacing. Much of this book is devoted to getting your sewing project off to a good start. The planning and decisions you make before you actually start sewing are just as important as the care you take in constructing the garment. Tak- ing accurate measurements, choosing the right fabric for the pattern, buying the appropriate interfacing and notions—all of these steps affect the quality and fi t of the fi nished product. Read through the tips and suggestions in the Getting Started section before you go to the fabric store. After you get home, 6 THE NEW SEWING ESSENTIALS New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 11--77__..iinndddd 66 D608-129/4239 1st Proof 77//11//0088 99::2211::2255 PPMM take the time to prepare your fabric and follow the other procedures shown in the Layout, Cutting, and Marking section. A New Approach to Fundamental Techniques The remainder of the book features the basic techniques you will use for nearly everything you sew. These are divided into fi ve major sections: stitches, seams, shaping methods, outer edges, and closures. Each is given an overview as well as a step-by-step description of how to achieve the best results. As you practice these fundamental techniques, they become part of your sewing repertoire, ready to be applied on future sewing projects. This is not a “project” book. It does not take you through the construction of a garment. Your pattern does that. This is a reference book featuring new tips and methods, special techniques for certain fabrics, and more detailed explanations of pattern instructions. The book gives you the opportunity to choose the best technique for your purposes. It emphasizes the details that make the difference between a professional-looking garment and one that looks homemade. Fashion details come and go, but the fundamentals of sewing can be applied to any design. Step-by-Step Guidance The photos add depth and dimension to the instructions, giving you a close- up look at each step. In some cases, the stitches are shown in heavier thread or a contrasting color to make them more visible. Some marking lines have also been exaggerated to show a particularly crucial matching point. These illustrative techniques should not be duplicated in your own sewing. If you’re just learning to sew or getting back to sewing, you may want to practice your skills on an easy project before starting an entire garment. Try sewing simple placemats and napkins to practice a seam or edge fi nish, a new hemming technique, or the application of fusible interfacing. When you’re ready to sew a garment, choose one of the simpler styles that are easy to fi t, with fewer seams and details. For the new sewer, the experienced sewer, or the sewer who has become a little rusty, this book is designed to help and inspire. Use it as your step-by- step guide to the satisfaction and fun of successful sewing. 7 New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 11--77__..iinndddd 77 D608-129/4239 1st Proof 66//3300//0088 1100::4466::3333 PPMM equipment 8 THE NEW SEWING ESSENTIALS New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 88--2233__..iinndddd 88 CD708-67/4220 2ND Proof 77//1188//0088 66::3366::1100 PPMM the sewing machine A sewing machine is your most important piece of sewing equipment, so select one with care. A sturdy, well-built machine will give you many years of sewing enjoyment. If you are buying a new machine, there are a variety of models available to fi t any budget or sewing need. Types range from a basic zigzag with one or two built-in stitches, to the elec- tronic machine that uses advanced computer technology to control and select the stitching. Available features include built-in but- tonholer, color-coded stitch selection, instant reverse, snap-on presser foot, free arm for stitching small round areas (such as pants legs), built-in bobbin winder, automatic ten- sion and pressure adjustment, and automatic stitch length adjustment. Each feature usually adds to the cost of the machine, so look for a machine to match your sewing projects. Buy a machine that satisfi es your sewing needs, but don’t pay for features you will rarely use. 9 New Sewing Essentials : Prov CPI SSeewwiinngg EEsssseennttiiaallss 88--2233__..iinndddd 99 CD708-83/4220 2ND Proof 77//1199//0088 1100::1166::4466 AAMM