Semi-tropical California SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA: ITS CLIMATE, HEALTHFULNESS, PRODUCTIVENESS, AND SCENERY; ITS MAGNIFICENT STRETCHES OF VINE- YARDS AND GROVES OF SEMI-TROPICAL FRUITS, ETC., ETC., ETC. By MAJOR BEN. C. TRUMAN. SAN FRANCISCO: A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS. 1874. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1874, By BEN. C. TRUMAN, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. In compliance with current copyright law, LBS Archival Products produced this Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984 to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. 1991 TO GENERAL PHINEAS BANNING, IN MEMORY OF MY FIRST VISIT TO SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA. DOMINUS VOBISCUM. PREFACE. HAVING traveled largely in Semi-tropical California, having examined closely and carefully its agricultural and pomological limits and advantages, and having written faithfully and elaborately of this land flowing with milk and honey, and where every man may sit under his own vine and fig tree, I have yielded to the earnest persuasions of friends and others, and made a book. I have visited nearly every orange grove and vineyard in Los Angeles county, and gathered my statistics in person; and I pledge myself, as a writer of acknowledged reliability, and as a special correspondent of such famous and well-known journals as the New York Times, Philadelphia Press, Washington Chronicle, and San Francisco Bulletin, who has visited almost all parts of the world in the employ of one or the other of the above-named newspapers, that I have not made a statement in the Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 following pages that is not strictly true in every particular; and I here assert that, everything taken into consideration, Los Angeles county (the heart of Semi-tropical California) has no equal in the world. For details, I respectfully invite perusal. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY 13 CHAPTER I. THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES—A CURSORY GLANCE—ITS RAILROADS AND FACILITIES OF INTERCOURSE—ITS WATER SUPPLY—ITS PRESS HOTELS, SCHOOLS, SOCIETIES, AND CHURCHES—THE COSMOPOLITAN CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION OF LOS ANGELES 16 CHAPTER II. AN INTERESTING HISTORICAL SKETCH—THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES NEARLY ONE HUNDRED YEARS OLD—WHEN AND BY WHOM IT WAS FOUNDED 22 CHAPTER III. SUBSEQUENT HISTORY—HOW LOS ANGELES FIGURED IN THE MEXICAN WAR—THE FIRST SURVEY—THE MARVELOUS GROWTH OF THE CITY AND IMPROVEMENT OF ITS SOCIETY—THE IMPETUS GIVEN COMMERCE AND AGRICULTURE BY THE AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN ELEMENT—SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA THE PLACE FOR MECHANICS, FARMERS, AND UNSKILLED LABORERS 26 CHAPTER IV. THE CLIMATE AND HEALTHFULNESS OF LOS ANGELES—THE MOST CHARMING CLIMATE IN THE WORLD THE YEAR ROUND, AND THE MOST EQUABLE TEMPERATURE TO BE FOUND IN THE NORTH TEMPERATE ZONE—FIGURES AND FACTS BY M'PHERSON 31 10 CHAPTER V. SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA IN WINTER—VIEWS OF NOTED WRITERS—JOHN SHIRLEY WARD MAKES A COMPARISON OF THE WINTERS OF TENNESSEE AND LOS ANGELES—SUMMER TIME IN LOS ANGELES 40 CHAPTER VI. A MATCHLESS PANORAMA—MAGNIFICENT STRETCHES OF VINEYARDS AND ORANGE AND LEMON GROVES IN THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES—BEAUDRY TERRACE 48 CHAPTER VII. CHOROGRAPHY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY—ITS SOIL AND PRODUCTIVENESS—THE CONSTANTLY INCREASING DEMAND FOR SEMI- Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 TROPICAL PRODUCTIONS—STOCK RAISING AND WOOL GROWING—DESCRIPTION OF A SHEEP RANCH—THE LARGE RANCHES OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY—A TABLE OF EXPORTS THAT SPEAKS FOR ITSELF—THE FIRST INTRODUCTION OF AMERICAN ELEMENT INTO LOS ANGELES COUNTY—THE CLIMATE AND HEALTHFULNESS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY—PICTORIAL DESCRIPTIONS BY CALIFORNIA EDITORS 66 CHAPTER VIII. THE STAPLE PRODUCTIONS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY— THE CULTIVATION OF THE OLIVE, THE ORANGE, LEMON, LIME, CITRON, FIG, POMEGRANATE, ALMOND AND ENGLISH WALNUT—GOV. JOHN G. DOWNEY ON ORANGE CULTURE—THE CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE, AND THE MANUFACTURE OF WINE AND BRANDY 83 CHAPTER IX. THE MINERAL DEPOSITS OF SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA—SOME FACTS ABOUT THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD—THE SAN GABRIEL PLACER MINES AND THE SOLEDAD QUARTZ LEADS—THE ZAPATA SILVER MINE— THE GREAT OIL REPOSITORIES OF VENTURA AND LOS ANGELES COUNTIES—THE MANUFACTURE OF SALT 96 11 CHAPTER X. IRRIGATION—THE PROCESS OF CULTIVATING LANDS BY THE INTRODUCTION OF WATER THROUGH ARTIFICIAL CANALS—GOVERNOR DOWNEY's VIEWS ON IRRIGATION 107 CHAPTER XI. THE VALLEY OF THE SAN GABRIEL—THE LOMBARDY OF SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA—A MAGNIFICENT PANORAMA OF VINEYARDS AND ORANGE GROVES—STONEMAN's HOME—RANCHO DEL MOLINO— LAKE VINEYARD—SUNNY SLOPE—SANTA ANITA RANCH—AN EMINENT WRITER's OPINION OF SAN GABRIEL—THE OLD MISSION CHURCH AND THE CHURCH OF OUR SAVIOUR 116 CHAPTER XII. DESCRIPTION OF ANAHEIM—A GLANGE AT A NOTED COLONY—THE REALM OF HYGEIA—A SKETCH OF VINE LANDS—A GREAT WINE- MAKER—ANECDOTE OF BEN DREYFUS—A DRIVE AROUND THE SURROUNDINGS OF ANAHEIM—WESTMINSTER AND RICHLAND—ARTESIAN WELLS IN ABUNDANCE —SANTA ANA AND GOSPEL SWAMP—THE OLD MISSION RUINS OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO 145 CHAPTER XIII. THE GREAT CORN-PRODUCING DISTRICTS Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY—EL MONTE AND LOS NIETOS—A MAGNIFICENT RANCHO—SPADRA, THE PRESENT SOUTHERN TERMINUS OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD 161 CHAPTER XIV. WILMINGTON—ITS HARBOR, BEACH AND BREAKWATER—THE WILSON COLLEGE—THE WILMINGTON WOOL DEPOT—A PEN PICTURE 169 CHAPTER XV. SUBURBAN SETTLEMENTS—THE SAN GABRIEL ORANGE ASSOCIATION—FAIR OAKS—WHAT A MAN OF INDUSTRY CAN DO WITH FORTY 12 DOLLARS IN NINE YEARS—LA BELLE CASCADE—EAST LOS ANGELES—SAN FERNANDO—THE OLD MISSION AND ITS GARDENS—EUGENE GARNIER's SHEEP RANCH 177 CHAPTER XVI. THE FAMOUS CHINO AND CUCAMONGA RANCHES AND VINEYARDS—A GLANCE AT SAN BERNARDINO 194 CONCLUSION—STATISTICAL 203 SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA. INTRODUCTORY. THE overgoing sun shines upon no region, of equal extent, which offers so many and such varied inducements to men in search of homes and health, as does the region which is entitled to the appellation of “Semi-Tropical California.” Embracing and including those portions of the counties of Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Bernardino, and San Diego, lying between the Coast Range, or Sierra Madre, and the Pacific Ocean, it is, besides being the natural habitat of productions which thrive nowhere else in perfection, a region peculiar, but none the less attractive, in the beauty of its scenery and the charms of its surroundings. The line of sea coast between Monterey and San Diego is about three hundred and eighty miles in length, and the breadth of the valleys and foot-hills, between the shore line and the mountains, may be averaged at from ten to thirty miles. The traveler who views this region from the deck of a steamer, can form but a poor idea of its wonderfully attractive features. The majestic mountains forming the back ground to the constantly changing panorama, it is true, present suggestions of grandeur and repose; but the comparatively sparsely settled fields and valleys which intervene, fail to meet the expectations of the tourist who has been accustomed to read the glowing accounts, or listen to the descriptions, of those who have Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 visited and made themselves familiar with this delightful region. The orange groves, the vineyards, the almond and walnut plantations, the orchards bending with their loads of fruit—all these things are to be seen only by those who find time to explore the valleys and the hillsides, where as yet they flourish best. Once 14 seen, however, all doubt as to the true character of the region quickly vanishes; and there are but few who, having once seen, do not resolve to make homes here, or if unable to do so, do not express their regret that fortune does not favor them in their wishes. A romantic glamour overhangs the region. Before the Declaration of Independence was framed, this portion of California had been settled by Spanish missionaries; and the missions and churches which they founded remain, many of them intact, and are still the places of worship; others have yielded to the touch of “time's effacing finger,” and are but piles of ruins. Wherever the sites of these churches and missions are found, however, they present objects of profound interest; not only because of their venerable antiquity, but as indicating the intelligent foresight of their founders. Wherever they were planted, to this day remain the elements of thriving, prosperous and populous communities; and as the knowledge of what, under the peculiar conditions of the soil and climate, is necessary for the development of the resources of the locality increases among the present occupants, and as the necessity of utilizing all these elements becomes daily more and more apparent, so does the wisdom of these pioneers reveal itself more clearly. A soil of exhaustless fertility, and the propinquity of bodies of water sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were to them the sine qua non, the germs, so to speak, without which no foundation of a church was ever laid. In one particular instance, a fuller reference to which will be made in the course of these pages, this foresight on the part of the Missionary Fathers has been recently demonstrated in a singularly marked manner. But it would be idle in a mere introductory sketch to hope to be able to convey any idea of the beauty or fertility of the region whose general outlines merely are indicated above. The object aimed at in the present volume, is to bring permanently into notice the county of Los Angeles, or, more properly, Semi-tropical California; its resources, and the advantages which it offers to the emigrant; its just claims to the title of the commercial center of what must in the near future become a sovereign State, and a great one; the fact that it must, in the nature of things, become the focal point at which a great railroad system must 15 inevitably Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 converge; that here the soil and climate are peculiarly adapted to the production of certain staple articles with which the markets of the world never have been and never will be glutted; that with a small capital, industry and economy, forty, twenty, ten acres of land, will in time yield an income greater than can be derived from an equal space in any other locality; and that, in addition to these things, health and the advantages of a comprehensive public school system offer themselves to the resident. It is not part of the task undertaken, or in accordance with the wishes of the writer, to detract from the claims of any other part of the delightful region which we name in our title page. But the palm is claimed for this section. The reader who shall follow us through these pages is asked to take the assurance home to him, that the endeavor is made to present nothing but facts, and if it be the case that he is in search of a home, to rest assured that here is to be found a region in which plenty and prosperity are the reward of industry and toil. Homes ready made are to be had for ready money; but the new comer who has his own way to make, may expect here, as elsewhere, to pass through the usual ordeals which wait upon the experimentalist; but he may be sure of a rich return if he bends himself with energy, patience and perseverance, to the task before him. 16 CHAPTER I. THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES—A CURSORY GLANCE—ITS RAILROADS AND FACILITIES OF INTERCOURSE—ITS WATER SUPPLY—ITS PRESS, HOTELS, SCHOOLS, SOCIETIES AND CHURCHES—THE COSMOPOLITAN CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION OF LOS ANGELES. THE city of Los Angeles (the “City of the Queen of the Angels;” or, as the native Californians have it, el Pueblo de la Reina de Los Angeles ) has been for years the center of a constantly increasing circle of admirers. Rarely, indeed, is it visited by a stranger who does not leave it with regret, or make up his mind to return. As for its fixed and settled population, if they do not say of it, as it is asserted the Neapolitans say of Naples, “See Los Angeles and die,” they do better, and say, “Come Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 to Los Angeles and live.” The regard of the Los Angelian for the place of his domìcile soon grows into a passionate attachment; and, whether spending a few days in the metropolis of the State, or wandering on pleasure or on business bent, through stranger continents, he counts only that day happy which shall restore him to his home. The charm of antiquity attaches itself to the history of the city, the settlement of which antedates, by many years, the earliest American emigration to this coast. The Anglo-Saxon pioneer found here a pueblo, the site of which had been selected with that almost intuitive recognition of the fitness of locality which seemed to be a characteristic of the founders of the early Spanish settlements in the Occident. Every day serves to confirm the wisdom of the projectors of the city of Los Angeles. Its growth is healthy, steady and constant. No more comprehensive statement of its peculiar advantages has ever been made, than is to be found in a remark of one of the more prominent attachés of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, who, a short time since, visited this section in an official capacity, and after a careful survey of the county, and an exhaustive and intelligent review of its resources, 17 remarked to the writer, “Los Angeles city has a proud future before it, even if it had nothing but its own county to depend upon. It is the commercial center of a self-sustaining region.” The reader who makes himself familiar with the following pages cannot fail to be impressed with the truthfulness of the remark. Corn, wheat, rye, barley and oats among the grains; oranges, lemons, limes, olives, pomegranates, bananas, citron, among the semi-tropical fruits; English walnuts, almonds, filberts, among the nuts; apples, pears, peaches, apricots, nectarines, in fact, all of the fruits of the temperate zone in perfection and boundless profusion, vegetables of every description, tobacco and hops among the productions which require exceptional conditions for their proper development—all find in Los Angeles county a natural home, and are tributary to the city's growth and prosperity. The city itself occupies an area of about six miles square, and is so located as to embrace within its limits a most agreeable diversity of hill and plain, and to afford, from almost any point, a matchless panorama of mountain, valley, orchard, vineyard, and the distant sea-coast, with the island of Santa Catalina far beyond. Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 To the gratification thus afforded to the æsthetic taste, is to be added the assurance of a future career of undiminished and constantly increasing prosperity. Years ago, before the real march of improvement in which she has already made such giant strides had commenced, a writer in the leading commercial journal of San Francisco predicted the future greatness of Los Angeles, and that, too, before a railroad tie had been laid—almost before the adobe buildings of the old Spanish pueblo had given place to any one of the long lines of modern edifices which now adorn her principal streets, and many of which vie in elegance and beauty with the most pretentious structures of older and far larger cities. To-day there are four lines of railroads centering in the city—the Wilmington road, connecting Los Angeles and Wilmington harbor, twenty-three miles; the Spadra road, thirty miles; the San Fernando, twenty-two miles; and the Anaheim road, twenty-eight miles. The latter will be extended without delay to Santa Ana, several miles further and perhaps beyond; the 18 Spadra route will, it is believed, be pushed onward to San Bernardino, thirty miles further, within a twelvemonth; the San Fernando road is the first link in the San Francisco chain. All of these roads are already doing an excellent business, and in the very nature of things must continue to be, as they are now, tributary to the legitimate development of the city's commercial importance. The real growth of the city does not date back further than six years. Within that time it has changed so much, and so much, too, for the better, that those who have been absent for that length of time would hardly recognize it, except for the old landmarks which remain. Between April, 1874, and September of the same year, at least $300,000 have been expended in the erection of business houses and residences. Within the period which includes the greatest degree of the growth and development of Los Angeles, it can be truly said that its citizens have had many things of an untoward nature to contend with. Nevertheless, they have not been unmindful to foster those particular interests upon which the real, solid prosperity of a community so largely depends. A public library association has been formed, and the nucleus of an institution which is destined to be the pride of its citizens has been placed upon a substantial and enduring basis. A public school house, thoroughly equipped with all modern appliances, has been erected at a cost of $30,000; its educational department placed under the superintendence of Dr. Wm. T. Lucky, a gentleman of thirty-three years' experience in the science Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203 of teaching. The Catholics, Episcopalians, German Evangelists, Methodists, and Congregationalists, have neat and commodious churches. There is also a Jewish synagogue which is one of the most elegant and showy buildings in the city. The Methodist church south are about to erect a fine house of worship; a cathedral to cost some $50,000 is in course of construction. There are also organized Presbyterian and Baptist churches, for which buildings will doubtless be erected during the coming season. The fraternal and charitable associations of the city must not be passed by without mention. They consist of three Odd Fellow's lodges, two Masonic, besides a Chapter and a Council of the higher degrees; two of Red Men; one of Knights of Pythias; one each of Good Templars, Sons of Temperance 19 and Champions of the Red Cross; a Jewish, French and Irish benevolent society; and an organization of Turners; a French hospital, and one under the supervision of the Sisters of Charity. Its private institutions of learning consist of a Catholic college for boys, a young ladies school in charge of the Sisters, and Lawlor Institute. There are three daily and four weekly papers published in the English language, one weekly in the German, and one semi-weekly in the Spanish —all flourishing and all well patronized. The hotel accomodations of the city compare favorably with those of any city in the State. The Pico House, situated on Main street (as indeed all four of the leading hotels are), its eastern side fronting the plaza, is one hundred and twenty-five feet square, three stories high, cost originally $48,000, and was furnished at a cost of $34,000. It has eighty-two rooms, including twenty-one suites, elegantly furnished throughout, and provided with bath rooms and whatever else can contribute to the comfort of its guests. It is lighted throughout with gas. The parlor is eighteen by thirty-four feet, handsomely furnished, and is daily the center and rallying point of a refined and accomplished circle of permanent and transient guests. Under the able management of Mr. Charles Knowlton, the affairs of the establishment glide on smoothly, and “complaint” is a word unknown in its vocabulary. The Clarendon was formerly known as the Bella Union. There is no more popular holstery on the coast. J. A. Brown presides over its destinies. It has one hundred and twenty rooms, including twenty-five suites. Fifty of the rooms have been added during the present season. It is provided with bath rooms, billiard rooms, and, of course, lighted throughout with gas. The cuisine of the Semi-tropical California http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.203