Science and technology of enrobed and filled chocolate, confectionery and bakery products Edited by Geoff Talbot CRC Press Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC Oxford Cambridge New Delhi Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Granta Park, Great Abington, Cambridge CB21 6AH, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487, USA First published 2009, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC © 2009, Woodhead Publishing Limited The authors have asserted their moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. 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Typeset by Ann Buchan (Typesetters), Middlesex, UK Printed by TJ International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, UK Contents Contributor contact details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi 1 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 G. Talbot, The Fat Consultant, UK 1.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1.2 Enrobed and filled products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1.3 Scope of the book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 1.4 Acknowledgements. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 1.5 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Part I Formulation 2 Chocolate manufacture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 S. Beckett, formerly of Nestlé Product Technology Centre, UK 2.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 2.2 Raw materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 2.3 Basic recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 2.4 Grinding. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 2.5 Conching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 2.6 Quality. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 2.7 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 2.8 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 2.9 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 3 Formulation of chocolate for industrial applications . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 P. Yates, Barry Callebaut (UK) Ltd, UK 3.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 3.2 Legislation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 3.3 Ingredients. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 vi Contents 3.4 Formulations for industry sectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 3.5 Speciality products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 3.6 Health aspects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 3.7 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 3.8 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 3.9 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 4 Fats for confectionery coatings and fillings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 G. Talbot, The Fat Consultant, UK 4.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 4.2 Crystal structure and polymorphism of fats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 4.3 Range of coating and filling fats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 4.4 Effects of fat on quality and processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 4.5 Selecting the correct fat for application type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 4.6 Trans fats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 4.7 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 4.8 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 4.9 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 5 Compound coatings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 G. Talbot, The Fat Consultant, UK 5.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 5.2 Cocoa butter alternatives in compound coatings . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 5.3 Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 5.4 Flavourings and colourings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 5.5 Effects of formulation on sensory and functional properties . . . . 90 5.6 Effect of fat choice on manufacturing process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 5.7 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 5.8 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 5.9 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 6 Fat-based centres and fillings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 J. Birkett, AarhusKarlshamn Denmark A/S, Denmark 6.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 6.2 Effects of ingredients on quality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 6.3 Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 6.4 Manufacturing processes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 6.5 Stability and shelf-life issues. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 6.6 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 6.7 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 6.8 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 7 Caramels, fondants and jellies as centres and fillings . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 W. P. (Bill) Edwards, Bardfield Consultants, UK 7.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 7.2 Stability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Contents vii 7.3 Ingredients. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 7.4 Processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 7.5 Products. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 7.6 Gelled products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 7.7 The future . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 7.8 Conclusions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 7.9 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 8 Biscuits and bakery products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 M. Brown, Burtons Foods Ltd, UK 8.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 8.2 Chocolate formulation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 8.3 Emulsifiers in chocolate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 8.4 Moisture barriers for caramel- and jam-containing biscuits . . . . 155 8.5 Non-hydrogenated coatings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 8.6 Processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 8.7 Quality issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 8.8 Fillings for bakery products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 8.9 Future trends in chocolate enrobing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 8.10 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 9 Chocolate and couvertures: applications in ice cream . . . . . . . . . . . 163 D. J. Cebula and A. Hoddle, Unilever R&D, UK 9.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 9.2 Features of ice cream and chocolate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 9.3 Application processes, formats, requirements, defects. . . . . . . . 171 9.4 Inclusions in ice cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 9.5 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 9.6 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 9.7 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Part II Product design 10 Product design and shelf-life issues: oil migration and fat bloom . . 185 G. Ziegler, Penn State University, USA 10.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 10.2 Mechanisms of oil migration and fat bloom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 10.3 Detection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 10.4 Optimizing product quality in relation to oil migration and fat bloom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 10.5 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 10.6 Sources of further information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 10.7 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 viii Contents 11 Product design and shelf-life issues: moisture and ethanol migration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 G. Talbot, The Fat Consultant, UK 11.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 11.2 Mechanism of moisture migration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 11.3 Measurement of permeability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 11.4 Reducing moisture migration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 11.5 Alcohol (ethanol) migration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 11.6 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 11.7 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 11.8 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 12 Shelf-life prediction and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 P. J. Subramaniam, Leatherhead Food International, UK 12.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 12.2 Shelf-life testing methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 12.3 Sensory changes during storage of chocolate confectionery . . . 243 12.4 Shelf-life prediction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 12.5 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 12.6 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 12.7 Acknowledgements. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 12.8 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 13 Controlling the rheology of chocolate and fillings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 M. Wells, formerly of Cadbury Trebor Bassett, UK 13.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 13.2 Defining rheological terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 13.3 How to measure the rheology of chocolate and fillings . . . . . . . 259 13.4 Typical chocolate flow curves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 13.5 Factors affecting chocolate rheology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 13.6 The rheology of fillings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 13.7 Issues with shell moulding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 13.8 Issues with enrobing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 13.9 Issues with one-shot depositing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 13.10 Dealing with viscoelasticity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 13.11 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 13.12 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 14 Using microscopy to understand the properties of confectionery products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 K. Groves, Leatherhead Food International, UK 14.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 14.2 Microscopy techniques and their uses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 14.3 Relationships between the microstructure of chocolate and Contents ix coatings and their properties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 14.4 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 14.5 Acknowledgement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 14.6 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Part III Processing, packaging and storage 15 Ingredient preparation: the science of tempering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 K. Smith, Unilever R&D, UK 15.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 15.2 Effects of tempering on quality. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 15.3 Polymorphism and phase behaviour of triacylglycerols. . . . . . . 315 15.4 Cocoa butter polymorphism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 15.5 Changes during tempering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 15.6 Factors affecting tempering. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 15.7 Measurement of temper. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 15.8 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 15.9 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 15.10 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 16 Tempering process technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 K. Richter, Sollich KG, Germany 16.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 16.2 Characteristics of cocoa butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 16.3 Chocolate tempering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 16.4 Chocolate coating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 16.5 Chocolate moulding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 16.6 Aerated chocolate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 16.7 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 16.8 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 17 Manufacturing processes: enrobing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 M. J. Bean, Baker Perkins Ltd, UK 17.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 17.2 Types of enrobing machines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 17.3 Centre preparation and presentation to the enrober . . . . . . . . . . 376 17.4 Chocolate application case study . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 17.5 Chocolate handling systems within the enrober . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 17.6 Environmental and hygiene issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 17.7 Ancillary equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 17.8 Typical operating parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 17.9 Faults and remedies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 17.10 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 17.11 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 x Contents 17.12 Acknowledgements. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 18 Manufacturing processes: chocolate panning and inclusions . . . . . 397 G. Geschwindner and H. Drouven, Drouven & Fabry GmbH, Germany 18.1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 18.2 Centres and raw materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 18.3 Preparation of the centres: precoating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 18.4 Panning process. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 18.5 Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 18.6 Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 18.7 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 18.8 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 19 Manufacturing processes: production of chocolate shells . . . . . . . . 414 J. Meyer, Bühler Bindler GmbH, Germany 19.1 Fundamentals of chocolate shell production methods . . . . . . . . 415 19.2 Cold stamping technology. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 19.3 Depositing, vibrating, cooling and demoulding . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 19.4 Process conditions and product quality. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 19.5 Faults, causes and solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 19.6 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 19.7 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 19.8 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 20 Manufacturing processes: deposition of fillings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 J. Meyer, Bühler Bindler GmbH, Germany 20.1 Modern processes for depositing fillings into premade shells: One-Shot technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 20.2 One-Shot process conditions and product quality. . . . . . . . . . . . 428 20.3 Faults, causes and solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 20.4 Future trends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 20.5 Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 20.6 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 Contributor contact details (* = main contact) Chapters 1, 4, 5, 11 Wildmere Road Banbury Geoff Talbot OX16 3UU The Fat Consultant UK Suite 250 Email: Phil_Yates@barry- St Loyes House callebaut.com 20 St Loyes Street Bedford MK40 1ZL UK Chapter 6 Email: [email protected] J. Birkett AarhusKarlshamn Denmark A/S DK-8000 Aarhus C Chapter 2 Denmark Dr S. T. Beckett Email: [email protected] Formerly of Nestlé Product Technology Centre Haxby Road Chapter 7 York YO91 1XY Dr Bill Edwards UK Bardfield Consultants 14 Durham Close Email: [email protected] Gt. Bardfield Braintree Essex Chapter 3 CM7 4UA UK Philip Yates UK Product Manager Email: BillEdwards@bardfield Barry Callebaut (UK) Ltd consultants.co.uk