Saving Face This page intentionally left blank Saving Face Disfigurement and the Politics of Appearance Heather Laine Talley a NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London www.nyupress.org © 2014 by New York University All rights reserved References to Internet websites (URLs) were accurate at the time of writing. Neither the author nor New York University Press is responsible for URLs that may have expired or changed since the manuscript was prepared. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Talley, Heather Laine.   Saving face : disfigurement and the politics of appearance / Heather Laine Talley.        pages cm   Includes bibliographical references and index.   ISBN 978-0-8147-8410-5 (hardback) -- ISBN 978-0-8147-8411-2 (pb)  1.  Aesthetics--Social aspects. 2.  Disfigured persons. 3.  Face--Social aspects. 4.  Physical- appearance-based bias. 5.  Surgery, Plastic--Social aspects.  I. Title.   HQ1219.T35 2014   305.9’08--dc23                                                             2014009793 New York University Press books are printed on acid-free paper, and their binding materials are chosen for strength and durability. We strive to use environmentally responsible suppliers and materials to the greatest extent possible in publishing our books. Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Also available as an ebook Contents Acknowledgments vii Introduction 1 1 About Face 7 2 Facial Work: Aesthetic Surgery as Lifesaving Work 24 3 Making Faces: Life Makeovers through Facial Work 47 4 Not Just Another Pretty Face: The Social Value 76 of Unremarkability 5 Saving Face: Redeeming a Universal Face 106 6 Facing Off: Debating Facial Work, Constructing a “Vital” 145 Intervention 7 At Face Value 179 Losing Face: A Postscript 201 Appendix: Methods, Methodologies, and Epistemologies 209 Notes 217 References 235 Index 251 About the Author 259 >> v This page intentionally left blank Acknowledgments Faces are singular. No two are exactly the same. Yet faces often resem- ble one another, and in this way, they indicate our lineage or whom we come from. Likewise, this book is a sole project, but it reflects the con- tributions of a great many. As a truly adventurous thinker, Monica J. Casper blends imagination and an appreciation for unique data with a steady infusion of classic sociology and emergent theory. Monica models how thinking and writ- ing are inextricable processes. She has been a mentor and guide from the embryonic stages of this project through the final moments of book writing. I am most grateful for her steady support. Laura Carpenter has proved to be a savvy sociological tour guide, offering priceless guidance about navigating the discipline. Steven J. Tepper has been generous in collaboration, and I have learned much about creativity, intellectual and otherwise. Jeff Bishop asked hard ques- tions of this project that pointed me in new directions. Over the years, I have encountered incredible teachers who have fundamentally changed the way I think as well. Their imprint is on these pages. I am especially appreciative to Jane Simmons, Karin Peterson, Heidi Kelley, Ken Bet- salel, Dee James, Karen Campbell, Ronnie Steinberg, Peggy Thoits, George Becker, and Richard Pitt. Confidentiality limits my ability to thank all those who generously agreed to be interviewed and who proffered access to key materials, but the completion of this book depended on their participation and open- ness to the critique of the social scientist, which demonstrates a sincere commitment to ever-enhanced patient care. Special thanks to Allen Furr for establishing a key point of entry and for several significant conversations regarding the profession of sociology. In describing his work as a burn unit physical therapist, Tonas Kalil planted the seeds for this project many years ago. The counselors and children I met at burn camp generously shared their stories and fortified my dedication to >> vii viii << Acknowledgments engaged scholarship. Maureen Kalil shared stories collected over many years working alongside burn communities; her cooking nourished me at several points throughout this project, too. I also benefited from the work of Mona Frederick, Gayln Martin, and Sarah Nobles, who created a support structure for emerging scholars through the Robert Penn Warren Center Dissertation Fellows Program at Vanderbilt University. Throughout the process of writing this book, my students reminded me of what is most compelling about academia—teaching and learn- ing. Special thanks to Sebastian Pope, Shana McClain, Mikayla Mann, Tatjana Moffitt, Devan Lalas, Nicholas Weitzel, and Zuleyka Hamilton, who invigorated me with their intellectual curiosity; to Kit Sudol for her sharp insight; and to Ted Coyle for book writing advice. The edito- rial guidance of Ilene Kalish and the comments of anonymous review- ers at NYU provided a framework through which I could reimagine my work. Their questions and suggestions have proved vital. Conversations with scholar-teacher friends including Matt Whitt, Kate Zubco, Soma Chaudhuri, Sammy Shaw, Sarah Hanson, and Nicole Seymour have shaped my thinking and buoyed my spirit. Erin Rehel generously offered ideas about several chapters. Dan Morrison read every word, gently extended suggestions, and most importantly said: Keep going. Colleagues at the Feminist Wire and Feminist Teacher approach scholarship, activism, and teaching as synergistic, transfor- mative practices. Through our efforts to do “the work,” vibrant femi- nist communities have emerged. I am most inspired by and grateful to Stephanie Gilmore, Aishah Shadiah Simmons, Tamura Lomax, and Darnell Moore for our collaborations (a.k.a. life-giving feminist trou- blemaking). Lisa Jean Moore has offered equal parts reassurance and professional real talk. In the beginning years of this project, several friends offered indis- pensable support including Gayle Parrott and Sarah Beth McLellan. Lyndi Hewitt provided critical insight and encouragement. Verba Rob- erson Holton served as an unparalleled idea collaborator. In recent years Vijay Das, Alex Fisher, Marcie Owenby, Alicia Randolph, and Marcia Ghidina interjected moments of pure delight. Kia Asberg, Brenda Clark, Carol McCrory, and Cathy Williams embodied uncon- ditional support. E. V. VonSeldeneck and Aicha Xavier Mahr readied me for the next great thing. Sarah Jane Glynn emerged as firebrand Acknowledgments >> ix friend and ally. Vali Forrister dispensed kindhearted dares. Ana-Helena Rodriguez Allen, Sarah Hutchinson Spalvins, and Millie Bryant were travel mates, from place to place and through life. This motley crew of friends has morphed into a gorgeous chosen family. Chief among friend-family are Elizabeth Eve and Kathryn Cartledge, whose steady stream of love has changed me for the better. Keith Bram- lett has thoroughly infused my thinking and my teaching with passion, self-reflexivity, and critical praxis, but more importantly in knowing him I found a model for living: Remain hopeful about what is possible. Work for a better world. Make life simply beautiful in the meantime. Bramlett and Phil Weast have fortified me from the very beginning. For the serendipity that has brought each of you into my world, I am most grateful. Cullen Talley, Travis Talley, Christopher Flow, Lauren Talley, and Heather Hayes have offered treasured forms of support over the years— from house-painting help to sensible (much needed) advice—first things first. Sami, Marki, and Riley Reed sustained my joy. Morris Tal- ley believed in my capacity to accomplish anything. And Pamela Flow instilled tenacity for keeping on and belief in endless possibilities. Each of you is deeply lodged in my heart. Lee Crayton deserves special acknowledgment for wrangling tech- nology and the pup. In our years together, we have intellectually jour- neyed alongside one another, ventured to change our corner of the world, and made home together. But more importantly, you have made me curious and hopeful about what’s next. Let’s.