ebook img

RO Residential Installation Guide 2007 PDF

8 Pages·2007·0.1 MB·English
by  
Save to my drive
Quick download
Download
Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.

Preview RO Residential Installation Guide 2007

RESIDENTIAL R.O. INSTALLATION TIPS! 1) Always use extra length tubing to make your connections, you may want to move the unit to replace the filters in the future. 2) Read the push -in fitting material, make sure you push the tube completely in. Page 2 3) If a fitting is not push-in, then use moderate pressure to snug up the fittings. Modern fittings do not rely on brute strength. They rely on Teflon tape, o-rings or gaskets to make the seal (just snug the fitting to make it secure ) Do not over tighten, plastic fittings that have been screwed on to tightly are subject to splitting. Stressed fittings may take days or even months to split and leak . 4) Please, Please, Please read the installation guide before installing the unit. This guide will answer a lot of your basic R.O. questions. 5) Ok ! You installed it without reading the guide. Please read the guide before calling or e-mailing us with any questions or problems. 6) Remember a 50GPD system makes a maximum 2 Gallons per hour, a slow trickle. Yes more water goes to drain than is made. All RO systems send water to drain while operating. Thanks, Walter The H2O Guru By the way this is the automatic shut off valve ASOV How to Push in Fittings Cut tube square Cut the tube square. It is essential that the outside diameter be free of score marks and that burrs and sharp edges be removed before inserting into fitting. Insert tube Fittings grips before it seals. Make sure tube is pushed in the tube stop Push up to tube stop Push the tube into the fitting, to the tube stop. The collet (gripper) has stainless steel teeth which hold the tube firmly in position while the 'O' ring provides a permanent leak proof seal. Pull to check secure Pull on the tube to check it is secure. It is a good practice to test the system prior to considering your handy work is done. The system doesn't full pressurize until the tank is full. Disconnecting Push in Collet and remove tube To disconnect, ensure the system is depressurized before removing fitting. Push in collet squarely against face of fitting. With the Collet held in this position, the tube can be removed. The fitting can then be re-used. If you tube will not stay in check to see if you have removed the little white collet. The fitting could have a blue tube in it which is a dust or dirt cap that needs to be removed. Before you can remove or insert a tube you will need to remove small blue retaining clip INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR THE INSTALLATION OF RESIDENTIAL REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEMS Please read this guide it is also a basic lesson in Reverse Osmosis systems This is a generic guide. Our intent is to instruct you about the installation of the common components of these systems. Prior to cutting the tubing to length, make sure it is long enough to allow you to move the unit for filter changing. You need only simple tools and patience to complete a leak free reliable installation of your system. Please exercise caution! You are in charge here. 1) Turn off electrical power near the work area. Check to make certain that you will not encounter any electrical wires or outlets. If you are unsure turn the power off to the work area. 2) Just look around before you drill a hole or pull on something. Will you have enough light to see what you are doing? Our equipment is marketed throughout the world, it may or may not meet local code requirements. 3) As is always the case, you should comply with local codes. Be prepared for spills with some rags and a small bucket. Turn off the water supply where you are working until you have finished the installation. Then turn it on slowly and leave it partially closed, until you verify that you have no leaks. I like to start the installation of a drinking water system with the Goose neck faucet. 4) The place to start is where the faucet will be. You need to consider looks, function, and space requirements. The area should be flat for at least an inch around the faucet. The location must allow for adequate space underneath the sink for the faucet as well as room for you to make and tighten the connection. You will need to drill a hole in the sink. 5) I prefer to use a punch to make a dent for starting the drill. 5a) If you do not have a punch use a 1/8 to 1/4 inch drill bit and slowly with light to moderate pressure to start a small hole. Do not push too hard or the drill bit will skid and possibly scratch the sink. 6)The hole size varies with the style of a faucet ( 7/16 - 9/16 ) of an inch being the range. I like to use a battery powered drill, see #1. They are safer and they turn more slowly than power drills. (If you do use a power drill make sure it is properly grounded and in good condition.) Slow speed steady light pressure will give you the best results. ( If you want to buy a great tool get a step bit ). They drill various size holes with the same bit. Don’t rush it or push too hard on the drill. 7) Now that you have drilled the hole mount the faucet. 8 ) Now attach enough tubing to the faucet bottom to reach the rest of the equipment. Cut the tube, leave enough for moving the system for filter changes. 9) The faucet will connect to the system at the final filter. That filter will have an arrow on it. 9a) That arrow will point to the connection for the faucet. The other side of the filter is connected to the tank pressure tank. I will cover that later, when we discuss the pressure tank. 10) Next I install the supply valve. (Please Note: The supply valve is not designed to work on braided hose.If you home has braided hose you will need an adaptor. This part is available from us or at your local hardware store.The adaptor is a watts brass fitting #BPAV-664) It has a couple of parts the valve assembly which includes small rubber washer on the under side of the valve, a small aluminum block with two concave sides and a brass screw. (See photo left) The valve mounts on a cold water supply tube. (See photo right) Never install this valve in front of the stop valve under your sink. This valve is to be installed on the supply tube between the stop valve and the sink faucet . The stop valve is the valve that allows you to turn off the water. If you are not sure which supply tube is cold, go up to the faucet and turn on the hot water for a couple of minutes, turn off the hot water, go back under the sink and feel the supply tubes. The hot water supply tube will be warmer than the cold water supply tube. The cold water supply tube can be either 3/8 or ½ inch. If you are not sure about your pipe than just lay the aluminum piece next to the pipe and use the concave side that fits the profile best. Pick a spot on the supply tube that is a couple of inches away from any other valve and mount the valve. Be careful not to interfere with the travel of the spray wand hose, if your sink is equipped with one. Just mount the valve securely not too tight. You just snug up the brass screw against the aluminum block that is fitted against the tube. The valve should not wiggle or turn when properly secured. (very snug do not over tighten). We will return to this valve later. 11) The drain saddle. This drain water is the life blood of the system. If the system cannot drain correctly, it will not function for long. The system is self flushing and the drain should never be blocked or restricted. This is really simple. The drain saddle is two plastic parts that clamp over the waste water plumbing of your home. There is small rubber foam washer that needs to be attached to the inside of the connection on one piece of the drain saddle. Now clamp the drain saddle in place 3-5" above the top of the bend in the P Trap. (see photo left) Again, just snug the drain saddle in place. Do not over tighten. Now drill a 1/8 to 1/4 inch hole thru the fitting hole thru one side of the waste pipe. (see photo right) Do not drill into the back side of the waste pipe. Simple wasn’t it? Connect enough tubing to the drain saddle to reach the unit ‘s drain connection. Almost done! Really the hard part is over. 12) Mount the system to the cabinet with care. Do not drill or screw into something on the back side of the cabinet. Most cabinets today are made of particle board so do not hang the system. Just place it on the cabinet floor and secure it. Particle board is famous for coming apart and dropping the system. 13) Locate the pressure tank connection, the pressure tank and the tank ball valve. The tank has only one plumbing connection, it is a threaded fitting at the top or side of the tank. That connection need’s Teflon tape applied to the threads, prior to attaching the tank ball valve. How can this tank work with only one connection for the inlet and the outlet? Think about a balloon you blow it up and if you release it the air rushes back out the same opening. 14) Once you have mounted the tank ball valve, connect tubing to it and connect the other end to the open end of the final filter. This is the small filter laying down along side the membrane housing. This is also the filter that is connected to the faucet. ( see 9a ) 15) Now locate the waste line of the R.O. unit. The waste line has a flow restriction device on it. The flow restriction device looks like this. It also has an arrow on it. Please check that the arrow is pointing toward the drain saddle, water flowing to drain away from the machine. Never impede, restrict or stop the waste water flow. Your system automatically controls the waste water. 16 ) Now locate the supply connection. It is usually an elbow shaped fitting that is located on one end of the unit. It is screwed into the first vertical filter unit. The first filter is always the sediment filter. The water flows thru this filter first then on to the rest of the system. Got it? Good connect some tubing to this fitting then to the supply valve. Now we need to return to the supply valve. ( see # 10 ) It is a self piercing valve. It has a needle in it that will poke a hole in the supply tube. Screwing the valve tee handle to the right will drive the needle into the tube. Slow steady pressure will work better than rushing it. Do not force it. Once you have bottomed out the needle turning the tee handle to the left will start the flow of water. At first you want to open the valve just a little bit, and check for leaks. Ok let the water run for a few minutes and open the valve fully. (It will not fall out unless you really over do it and manage to unscrew the cap nut as well.) Air, Water & Ice Inc. Web Site: www.airwaterice.com Email:

See more

The list of books you might like

Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.