EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PROVENCE & THE COTE D’AZUR RESTAURANTS • BEACHES ART • SCENIC TOURS FESTIVALS • MAPS HOTELS • MARKET TOWNS WINE • HILLTOP VILLAGES THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU Provence and the Côte d’Azur ! 2 $ % # ( % ALPES-DE-HAUTE- PROVENCE Pages 174–187 $ 2 / - % VAUCLUSE Pages 154–173 ' ! 2 $ VAUCLUSE /ÔNFT BOUCHES-DU-RHONE- AND NIMES .BBSTSFT JFM JM MFM F 0 kilometres 20 BOUCHES-DU-RHONE- 0 miles 20 AND NÎMES Pages 126–153 ( ! 5 4 % ! , 0 % 3 THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES Pages 60–99 ALPES-DE-HAUTE- PROVENCE %JHOFMFT#BJOT THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES .PP O B D P $BOOFT THE VAR AND THE *MFTEF-ÏSJOT ILES D’HYERES 5PVMPO *MFTEh)ZFSFT THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYÈRE S Pages 100–125 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D’AZUR EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D’AZUR MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: ROGER WILLIAMS PROJECT EDITOR Jane Simmonds ART EDITOR Jane Ew art SENI O RED I TO R F ay F r aknlin EDI TORS To mF r a s e, rEl a i n e H a r r i e s , F i ognaan M o r DESIG N E RS Claire Edwards, Pippa Hurst, Malcolm Parchment CONTRIBUTORS John Flower, Jim Keeble, Martin Walters PHOTOGRAPHERS Max Alexander, John Heseltine, Kim Sayer, Alan Williams CONTENTS ILLUSTRATORS Stephen Conlin, Richard Draper, Steve Gyapay, Chris D Orr Illustration, John Woodcock HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 Film outputting bureau Cooling Brown, England Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by Toppan Printing Co. (Shenzhen Ltd) First American Edition 1995 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 1995, 1997, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2008 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Copyright 1995, 2008 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London All rights reserved under international and pan-american copyright conventions. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored Poppy field outside Sisteron in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, INTRODUCING without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. PROVENCE Published in Great Britain by dorling kindersley limited. ISSN 1542-1554 DISCOVERING ISBN: 978-0-75661-549-9 PROVENCE 10 THROUGHOUT THIS BOOK, FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE, I.E., THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS ONE FLIGHT UP. PUTTING PROVENCE Front cover main image: fields of lavender by rustic farmhouse, Var. ON THE MAP 12 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any materia l on third party websites, and cannot guarantee t hat any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Busy Pampelonne beach to the south of fashionable St-Tropez Abbaye de Sénanque, Vaucluse VAUCLUSE 154 SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS AND OUTDOOR ALPES-DE-HAUTE- ACTIVITIES 230 PROVENCE 174 SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION 236 TRAVEL INFORMATION 246 Goat cheese in chestnut leaves GENERAL INDEX 254 TRAVELLERS’ Marseille fisherman and his catch PHRASE BOOK 270 NEEDS A PORTRAIT OF WHERE TO STAY 190 PROVENCE 14 PROVENCE THROUGH THE YEAR 32 THE HISTORY OF PROVENCE 36 One of the perfumes of Provence PROVENCE AREA BY AREA RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS AND BARS 204 PROVENCE AT A GLANCE 58 SHOPS AND MARKETS 220 Typical Provençal countryside ENTERTAINMENT 224 between Grasse and Castellane Tarascon’s château by the Rhône THE RIVIERA AND THE ALPES MARITIMES 60 THE VAR AND THE ILES D’HYÈRES 100 BOUCHES-DU-RHÔNE Fondation AND NÎMES 126 Maeght outside St-Paul-de-Vence 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE his guide will help you get the sights, wit h maps, p hotograp hs and most from your stay in Provence. detailed illustrations. Suggestions for TIt provides both ex pert recom- food, drink, accommodation, shopping mendations and detailed practical and entertainment are in Travellers’ information. Introducing Provence Needs, and the Survival Guide has tips maps the region and sets it in its his- on everything from the French tele- torical and cultural context. Provence phone system to getting to Provence Area by Area describes the important and travelling around the region. 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