197523_ffirs:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 12:03 PM Page i W A Y N E G I S S L E N P R O F E S S I O N A L C O O K I N G S E V E N T H E D I T I O N P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y J . G E R A R D S M I T H JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. 197523_ffirs:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 12:03 PM Page ii Senior Acquisitions Editor Mary J. Cassells Cover Designer Howard Grossman Senior Developmental Editor Julie R. Kerr Cover & Interior Photography J. Gerard Smith Project Editor Michele Traeger Sr. Page Layout Technician Beth Brooks Editorial Assistant James Metzger Graphics Supervisor Clint Lahnen Editorial Assistant Jenni Lee Illustration Creation Cheryl Grubbs Production Editor Barbara Russiello Graphics Processing & Imaging Brent Savage Production Manager Micheline Frederick Composition Proj. Coordinator Kristie Rees Marketing Manager Margaret Barrett Executive Media Editor Tom Kulesa Compostion & Text Design Mauna Eichner, Lee Fukui Media Consultant Lydia Cheng Senior Designer Carole Anson This book was set in 9/12 Meta by Mauna Eichner and Lee Fukui and printed and bound by RR Donnelley & Sons Company. The cover was printed by RR Donnelley & Sons Company. This book is printed on acid free paper. Copyright © 2011, 2007, 2003, 1999 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Published simultaneously in Canada. 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Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data: Gisslen, Wayne, 1946- Professional cooking / Wayne Gisslen ; photography by J. Gerard Smith. -- 7th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-470-19752-3 (Higher Education Cloth) -- ISBN 978-0-470-19753-0 (Trade Cloth) 1. Quantity cookery. 2. Food service. I. Title. TX820.G54 2009 641.5'7--dc22 2009045858 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 197523_ffirs:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 12:03 PM Page iii This book is dedicated to the many Chef-Instructors preparing a new generation of culinary professionals. 197523_ftoc.qxd:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 9:56 PM Page iv FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI ENCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER STANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL TRY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND Contents Recipe Contents ix Chapter 3 Tools and Equipment 41 Preface xxii Introduction to Quantity Food Equipment 42 Acknowledgments xxvi Cooking Equipment 43 About CulinarE-Companion™ xxix Processing Equipment 49 About WileyPLUS xxx Holding and Storage Equipment 53 Pots, Pans, and Containers 54 Measuring Devices 56 Chapter 1 The Food-Service Industry 1 Knives, Hand Tools, and Small Equipment 57 A History of Modern Food Service 2 The Organization of Modern Kitchens 7 Standards of Professionalism 11 Chapter 4 Basic Principles of Cooking 63 and Food Science Heat and Food 64 What Is Heat? 64 Heat Transfer 66 Heat Management 67 Cooking Methods 70 Moist-Heat Methods 70 Dry-Heat Methods 72 Dry-Heat Methods Using Fat 74 Microwave Cooking 76 Cooking Sous Vide 77 Molecular Gastronomy 79 Chapter 2 Sanitation and Safety 15 Summary of Cooking Terms 81 Sanitation 16 Building Flavor 82 Food Hazards 16 Building Flavor Profiles 82 Personal Hygiene 25 Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients 84 Food Storage 26 Using Herbs and Spices 89 Food Handling and Preparation 28 Cleaning and Sanitizing Equipment 30 Rodent and Insect control 32 Setting up a System for Food Safety 33 Safety 35 The Safe Workplace 36 Preventing Cuts 36 Preventing Burns 37 Preventing and Dealing with Fires 37 Preventing Injuries from Machines and Equipment 38 Preventing Falls 38 Preventing Strains and Injuries from Lifting 39 iv 197523_ftoc.qxd:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 9:56 PM Page v CONTENTS v SCI DER Clear Soups 227 OUL AND Broths 227 Consommé 228 Vegetable Soups 232 Other Clear Soups 235 Thick Soups 238 Cream Soups 238 Purée Soups 246 Bisques 253 Chowders 254 Specialty Soups and National Soups 257 Chapter 5 Menus, Recipes, 93 and Cost Management Chapter 10 Understanding Meats and Game 275 Menu Forms and Functions 94 Building the Menu 96 Composition, Structure, The Written Recipe 102 and Basic Quality Factors 276 Measurement 105 Composition 276 Converting Recipes 109 Structure 277 Food Cost Calculations 114 Inspection and Grading 278 Controlling Food Costs 120 Aging 278 Understanding the Basic Cuts 280 Chapter 6 Nutrition 125 Available Forms: Carcasses, Partial Carcasses, Primals, and Fabricated Cuts 280 Nutrients 126 Bone Structure 281 The Balanced Diet 130 Beef, Lamb, Veal, and Pork Cuts 285 Cooking Healthful Meals 133 Selecting Meats for Your Operation 288 Fabricating Meats 289 Cooking and Handling Meats 293 Chapter 7 Mise en Place 137 Tenderness and Appropriate Cooking Methods 293 Planning and Organizing Production 138 Doneness 297 Using the Knife 141 Cooking Variety Meats 300 Preliminary Cooking and Flavoring 149 Game and Specialty Meats 303 Preparation for Frying 152 Storage of Meats 306 Handling Convenience Foods 154 Chapter 11 Cooking Meats and Game 309 Chapter 8 Stocks and Sauces 157 Roasting and Baking 310 Broiling, Grilling, and Pan-Broiling 325 Stocks 158 Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Griddling 333 Ingredients 158 Simmering 343 Procedures 162 Braising 352 Reductions and Glazes 169 Convenience Bases 170 Sauces 171 Understanding Sauces 171 Roux 172 Other Thickening Agents 176 Finishing Techniques 177 Sauce Families 179 Production 182 Chapter 9 Soups 223 Understanding Soups 224 Classifications of Soups 224 Service of Soups 225 197523_ftoc.qxd:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 9:56 PM Page vi vi CONTENTS Chapter 12 Understanding Poultry Chapter 15 Cooking Fish and Shellfish 471 371 and Game Birds Baking 472 Composition and Structure 372 Broiling and Grilling 478 Inspection and Grading 373 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 486 Classification and Market Forms 374 Deep-Frying 494 Handling and Storage 378 Poaching and Simmering 499 Doneness 378 Steaming and Mixed Cooking Techniques 509 Trussing Methods 379 Seafood Served Raw 517 Cutting Up Chicken 380 Chapter 16 Understanding Vegetables 523 Chapter 13 Cooking Poultry and Game Birds 385 Controlling Quality Changes During Cooking 524 Roasting and Baking 386 Broiling and Grilling 399 Controlling Texture Changes 524 Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Deep-Frying 406 Controlling Flavor Changes 525 Simmering and Poaching 419 Controlling Color Changes 526 Braising 427 Controlling Nutrient Losses 528 Dressings and Stuffings 438 General Rules of Vegetable Cookery 529 Standards of Quality in Cooked Vegetables 529 Handling Vegetables 530 Chapter 14 Understanding Fish 441 Fresh Vegetables 530 and Shellfish Processed Vegetables 553 Production and Holding Problems in Quantity Cooking 556 Fin Fish 442 Storage 557 Composition and Structure 442 Special Problems in Cooking Fish 442 Cutting Fish 443 Chapter 17 Cooking Vegetables 561 Varieties and Characteristics 446 Handling and Storage 454 Boiling and Steaming 562 Shellfish 456 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 576 Mollusks 456 Braising 582 Cephalopods 461 Baking 588 Crustaceans 462 Broiling and Grilling 596 Miscellaneous Seafood 469 Deep-Frying 598 Chapter 18 Potatoes 603 Understanding Potatoes 604 Cooking Potatoes 607 Chapter 19 Legumes, Grains, Pasta, 629 and Other Starches Dried Legumes 630 Grains 639 Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings 657 Chapter 20 Cooking for Vegetarian Diets 681 Understanding Vegetarian Diets 682 Menus for Vegetarian Diets 684 197523_ftoc.qxd:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 9:56 PM Page vii CONTENTS vii Chapter 21 Salad Dressings and Salads 699 Salad Dressings 700 Ingredients 700 Emulsions in Salad Dressings 701 Oil-and-Vinegar Dressings 702 Emulsified Dressings 705 Other Dressings 708 Salads 710 Types of Salads 710 Ingredients 712 Arrangement and Presentation 721 Recipes and Techniques 723 Chapter 22 Sandwiches 761 Breads 762 Spreads 763 Fillings 763 Types of Sandwiches 765 Chapter 25 Dairy and Beverages 833 Making Sandwiches 766 Dairy Products 834 Milk and Cream 834 Chapter 23 Hors d’Oeuvres 781 Butter 836 Cheese 837 Serving Hors d’Oeuvres 782 Coffee and Tea 846 Canapés 782 Coffee 846 Cocktails 786 Tea 849 Relishes 786 Dips 787 Miscellaneous Hors d’Oeuvres 790 Chapter 26 Sausages and Cured Foods 853 Curing and Smoking 854 Chapter 24 Breakfast Preparation 811 Sausages 859 Eggs 812 Understanding Eggs 812 Chapter 27 Pâtés, Terrines, Cooking Eggs 816 875 and Other Cold Foods Breakfast Breads, Cereals, and Meats 826 Pancakes and Waffles 826 The Handling and Service of Cold Dishes 876 French Toast 828 Aspic and Chaud-Froid 877 Cereals 830 Special Forcemeat Dishes 882 Breakfast Meats 830 Terrines Based on Mousselines 891 Terrines and Other Molds with Gelatin 893 Foie Gras, Liver Terrines, and Rillettes 899 Chapter 28 Food Presentation and Garnish 905 Hot Food Presentation 906 Fundamentals of Plating 906 Garnish 910 Cold Food Presentation and Buffet Service 912 Buffet Arrangement and Appearance 913 Cold Platter Presentation 915 Hot Foods for Buffets 917 197523_ftoc.qxd:197523 Gisslen_1p 12/1/09 9:56 PM Page viii viii CONTENTS ING VEG DAI Chapter 29 Bakeshop Production: Chapter 34 Pies and Pastries 1005 919 TIO Basic Principles and Ingredients Pies 1006 Basic Principles of Baking 920 Pie Doughs 1006 Formulas and Measurement 920 Assembly and Baking 1010 Mixing and Gluten Development 923 Fillings 1012 The Baking Process 924 Pastries, Meringues, and Fruit Desserts 1020 Staling 925 Puff Pastry 1020 Ingredients 925 Éclair Paste 1024 Flours, Meals, and Starches 925 Meringues 1026 Fats 927 Fruit Desserts 1028 Sugars 928 Liquids 930 Eggs 931 Chapter 35 Creams, Custards, Puddings, 1033 Leavening Agents 932 Frozen Desserts, and Sauces Salt, Flavorings, and Spices 933 Sugar Cooking 1034 Basic Custards and Creams 1035 Chapter 30 Yeast Products 937 Puddings 1039 Bavarians, Chiffons, Mousses, and Soufflés 1041 Understanding Yeast Products 938 Frozen Desserts 1049 Yeast Product Types 938 Desert Sauces 1051 Mixing Methods 938 Steps in Yeast Dough Production 939 Appendix 1 Metric Conversion Factors 1054 Dough Formulas and Techniques 944 Bread and Roll Formulas 944 Rolled-In Doughs: Danish Pastry and Croissants 948 Appendix 2 Standard Can Sizes 1054 Makeup Techniques 952 Appendix 3 Approximate Weight-Volume Chapter 31 Quick Breads 959 Equivalents of Dry Foods 1055 Mixing and Production Methods 960 Appendix 4 Kitchen Math Exercises: Formulas 962 Metric Versions 1056 Chapter 32 Cakes and Icings 967 Appendix 5 Eggs and Safety 1058 Understanding Cake Making 968 Bibliography 1059 Basic Mixing Methods 968 Cake Formula Types 971 Glossary and Cooking Vocabulary 1061 Scaling and Panning 972 Subject Index 1077 Baking and Cooling 974 Recipe Index 1081 Altitude Adjustments 975 Cake Formulas 976 Creaming Method 976 Two-Stage Method 978 Foaming Methods 979 Icings: Production and Application 981 Producing and Handling Basic Types 981 Assembling and Icing Cakes 986 Chapter 33 Cookies 991 Cookie Characteristics and Their Causes 992 Mixing Methods 993 Types and Makeup Methods 994 Panning, Baking, and Cooling 996