Practical Cookery 11TH EDITION John Campbell David Foskett Victor Ceserani This eBook does not include the ancillary media that was packaged with the printed version of the book. Orders: please contact Bookpoint Ltd, 130 Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4SB. Telephone: (44) 01235 827720. Fax: (44) 01235 400454. Lines are open from 9.00 – 5.00, Monday to Saturday, with a 24-hour message answering service. You can also order through our website www.hoddereducation.co.uk. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library ISBN: 978 0340 94837 8 First Published2008 Impression number 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 Year 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 Copyright © 2008 John Campbell, David Foskett and Victor Ceserani All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher or under license from the Copyright Licensing Agency Limited. Further details of such licenses (for reprographic reproduction) may be obtained from the Copyright Licensing Agency Limited, Saffron House, 6–10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS. Cover photo © Tim Imrie/Photolibrary Typeset by Fakenham Photosetting Ltd, Fakenham, Norfolk Illustrations by Richard Morris Printed in Italy for Hodder Education, an Hachette UK Company, 338 Euston Road, London NW1 3BH. Contents Conversion tables iv Acknowledgements v Introduction to the eleventh edition vi Picture credits vii How to access Chapters 16 to 24b x 1 Healthy eating 1 2 Methods of cookery 7 3 Stocks, soups and sauces 39 4 Cold preparation 86 5 Egg dishes 130 6 Pasta and rice 140 7 Fish and shellfish 168 8 Meat 228 9 Poultry and game 330 10 International dishes 380 11 Vegetarian dishes 436 12 Vegetables, pulses and grains 466 13 Potatoes 515 14 Pastry 534 15 Snacks, light meals, savouries and convenience foods 658 Glossary 675 Index 681 Conversion tables Spoons and cups Metric Weights and measures 1 teaspoon (tsp) 5 ml 1 dessertspoon (dsp) 10 ml Metric Approx. Imperial 1 tablespoon (tbsp) 15 ml equivalent 1⁄ cup 60 ml 4 5 g 1⁄4oz 1⁄3cup 80 ml 10 g 1⁄2oz 1⁄2cup 125 ml 25 g 1 oz 1 cup 250 ml 50 g 2 oz 75 g 3 oz 100 g 4 oz Oven temperatures 125 g 5 oz 150 g 6 oz 175 g 7 oz ºC Gas regulo ºF 200 g 8 oz slow (cool) 110 1⁄ 225 4 225 g 9 oz 130 1⁄ 250 2 250 g 10 oz 140 1 275 275 g 11 oz 150 2 300 300 g 12 oz 160 3 325 325 g 13 oz moderate 180 4 350 350 g 14 oz 190 5 375 375 g 15 oz 200 6 400 400 g 16 oz hot 220 7 425 1 kg 2 lb 230 8 450 125 ml 1⁄4pt very hot 250 9 475 250 ml 1⁄ pt 2 375 ml 3⁄ pt 4 500 ml 1 pt 750 ml 11⁄ pt 2 1 litre 2 pt (1 qt) 2 litres 2 qt 4.5 litres 1 gal 0.5 cm 1⁄ in 4 1 cm 1⁄ in 2 2 cm 1 in 4 cm 11⁄ in 2 5 cm 2 in 6 cm 21⁄ in 2 8 cm 3 in 10 cm 4 in 12 cm 5 in 15 cm 6 in 16 cm 61⁄ in 2 18 cm 7 in 30 cm 12 in 45 cm 18 in iv Acknowledgements We are most grateful to the following for their Sam Bailey for the photography. assistance in preparing this edition of Practical Jenny Arthur, nutrition consultant, for the Cookery: nutritional analysis, Dr Jenny Poulter, Jane Cliff The staff at the Vineyard at Stockcross, especially and Pat Bacon for their work on previous editions. Peter Eaton for his meticulous testing and Olly Russums Catering Clothing and Equipment. Rouse not only for his assistance with the text of the book but also for his support during the Compass Group UK. filming process. Special thanks to Russell Hume Ltd for Dipna Anand and the staff of the Brilliant sponsoring the butchery videos, and in particular Restaurant, Southall. to Pat Herlihy, Operations Director, and Terry Connelly, Sales Account Manager. Russell Hume Alexia Chan, Paul Cherry, Deborah Edwards and are meat, game and poultry specialists and Laura DeGrasse at Hodder Education, and Lynn national suppliers of meat, game and poultry Brown and Rick Jackman. products to hotels, restaurants, pubs and event Adrian Moss of Instructional Design Ltd for caterers. They are committed to quality and producing and creating the videos which service nationwide and have 90 years’ experience, accompany this book and the associated teacher with managers who have over 20 years’ resources. experience in the meat trade. v Introduction to the eleventh edition The purpose of this book is to provide a sound development enables chefs to be creative and this foundation of professional cookery for all levels of has been demonstrated by the many restaurants students of catering. and food service outlets taking this approach. The following points are important: However, to be creative, chefs must understand and acquire the basic skills of practical • to develop a professional attitude and professional cookery. These skills and appearance, acquire skills and behave in a underpinning knowledge must be formed from professional manner; the subject knowledge – ‘the body of knowledge’ • to develop knowledge and understanding of all upon which every discipline relies as the source commodities regarding cost, quality and use; from which concepts, models and theories • to understand the methods of cooking and be develop. able to produce a variety of dishes for various In practical professional cookery it is the basic types of establishment; principles, procedures and classical dishes that • to understand recipe balance and be able to originate from the traditional French kitchen, produce dishes of the required quality, colour, further developed by master chefs such as Carême consistency, seasoning, flavour, temperature, and Escoffier. The chefs in the traditional French quantity and presentation; kitchen were the first to practise fusion cuisine as • with experience, to develop recipes using ingredients were brought from different countries, original ideas; together with different recipes and methods, • to understand the principles of healthy eating which these chefs refined to suit the various types and basic nutrition; of customer. Therefore, fusion or eclectic cuisine is • to fully understand the essential necessity for not new but, with globalisation, that is the healthy, hygienic and safe procedures at all bringing together of countries, peoples, cultures times in the storage, preparation, cooking and and cuisines, chefs have been enabled to be more serving of food. creative and innovative. These books may also assist you in your career: Basic skills and recipes are fundamental as these The Theory of Catering and Advanced Practical provide the framework for all the essential Cookery. underpinning knowledge for a successful career in As the world is getting ‘smaller’ due to factors professional cookery that will allow individuals to such as fast transport and tourism, modern cuisine gain employment across continents. uses a wide variety of ingredients from all over the This book provides an invaluable foundation for world. This has led to an intermix of cuisine acquiring basic professional skill and knowledge cultures, for example a fusion of western and and in this edition we have attempted to balance eastern styles; traditional European cuisine has the traditional with the modern in the blended with Oriental, and so on. This may be illustrations. described as ‘eclectic’ cuisine, which is the The decision to use metric weights and deriving of ideas, tastes and styles from various measures was taken after consultation with sources and which originated in Australia. This catering colleges. vi Nutritional Analysis There is no such thing as unhealthy food but and in such cases information derived from Food there are unfortunately unhealthy eating habits Portion Sizes, 3rd Edition, Dept of Environment, that in many cases lead to obesity followed by ill- Fisheries and Rural Affairs. health and premature death. Where appropriate, the edible portion of the It is because of national concern with the recipe ingredient was used; there were instances alarming increase in cases of obesity, particularly where the waste produced in the recipe would with the young, that we invited Jenny Arthur to have distorted the nutritional values e.g. whole develop the nutritional analysis for some of the chicken as part of the recipe, but only the wing new recipes. and leg quarters were used. Analysis for the nutrients has been performed Vegetable oil was used as the first choice of oil using the computer software CompEat Pro unless specified otherwise, and butter was used as Version 5.8.0 (2002). This holds the UK the first choice over margarine. Semi-skimmed integrated databases of McCance & Widdowson’s milk is used as first choice milk unless otherwise The Composition of Foods 6th Summary Edition and specified. associated supplements, RSC. Weights and measures were used as given in the text unless mentioned as a single item e.g. an egg, Picture credits The authors and publisher would like to thank the Richard Morris for figures 8.1–8.4, 8.10–8.12, following for permission to reproduce copyright 8.14, 8.17, 8.21, 8.26, 8.34, 9.1 and 9.3. illustrative material: Adrian Moss for figures 2.1–2.4, 2.6, 2.8–2.14, Sam Bailey for the photos at the beginning of 3.1, 3.2, 4.12, 5.1, 5.2, 5.4, 7.1–7.4, 7.8–7.10, each chapter and for figures 1.2, 1.3, 2.5, 2.7, 7.12, 7.17, 8.15, 9.2, 9.4–9.7, 10.1, 10.5, 11.6, 3.3–3.5, 4.1–4.11, 4.13, 4.14, 5.3, 5.5, 5.6, 12.2, 14.6, 14.8, 14.24, 14.32, 14.38 and 6.1–6.5, 7.5–7.7, 7.11, 7.13–7.16, 7.18, 7.19, 14.41–14.43. 8.6–8.9, 8.16, 8.22–8.25, 8.33, 9.8–9.17, Oxford Designers and Illustrators for figures 9.18, 10.2–10.4, 10.6–10.15, 11.1–11.5, 11.7–11.11, 13.2, 13.3, 16.1, 16.3, 16.9–16.11, 17.3, 17.4, 12.1, 12.3–12.13, 13.4–13.11, 14.1–14.5, 14.7, 17.8, 17.11, 18.3, 18.5–18.8, 19.1 and 20.2. 14.9–14.23, 14.25–14.31, 14.33–14.37, 14.39, 14.40, 14.44, 14.49–14.54, 15.1, 17.9, 20.3, 20.5, Russums Catering Clothing and Equipment for 21.1 and 23.1. figures 17.14, 20.4 and 20.6. The British Potato Council for figure 13.1. Crown copyright material is reproduced with the permission of the Controller of HMSO and the Compass Group UK for figures 2.15, 17.1, 17.2, Queen's Printer for Scotland. 17.7, 17.10, 17.12, 17.13, 20.1 and 20.7. The Meat and Livestock Commission for figures 8.5, 8.13, 8.18–8.20 and 8.27–8.32. vii What does ‘the expert choice’ mean for M you? We work with more examiners and experts than any other publisher Because we work with more experts and examiners than any other publisher, the very latest curriculum requirements are built into this course and there is a perfect match between your course and the resources that you need to succeed. We make it easier for you to gain the skills and knowledge that you need for the best results. We have chosen the best team of experts – including the people that mark the exams – to give you the very best chance of success; look out for their advice throughout this book: this is content that you can trust. 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