Copyright © 2013 by Andy Ricker Photographs copyright © 2013 by Austin Bush Front cover photograph © 2013 by Eric Wolfinger Foreword © 2013 by David Thompson All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Ricker, Andy.    Pok Pok : food and stories from the streets, homes, and roadside restaurants of Thailand / Andy Ricker with JJ Goode ; [foreword by] David Thompson.       pages cm 1. Cooking, Thai. I. Goode, JJ II. Title.    TX724.5.T5R53 2013    641.9593—dc23                                                     2013012451 Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-288-3 eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-289-0 Photo look and color by Adam Levey v3.1_r1 contents FOREWORD by David Thompson INTRODUCTION HOW TO USE THIS BOOK INGREDIENTS MAIL-ORDER SOURCES THAI REGIONAL RUNDOWN THE MORTAR AND PESTLE CHAPTER 1 Khao (Rice) THE ABSURDITY OF AUTHENTICITY Khao Hom Mali (Jasmine rice) Khao Niaw (Sticky rice) CHAPTER 2 Som Tam (Papaya salad and family) Som Tam Thai (Central Thai–style papaya salad) Som Tam Lao (Lao/Isaan-style papaya salad) Som Tam Phonlamai (Thai fruit salad) Tam Taeng Kwaa (Thai cucumber salad) CHAPTER 3 Yam (Thai “salads”) Yam Khai Dao (Fried egg salad) Yam Tuna (Thai tuna salad) Yam Wun Sen “Chao Wang” (Sunny’s fancy glass noodle salad) Yam Makheua Yao (Grilled eggplant salad) SUNNY Yam Samun Phrai (Northern Thai–style herbal salad) Neua Naam Tok (Isaan steak salad) Het Paa Naam Tok (Isaan-style forest mushroom salad) CHAPTER 4 Plaa (Fish) Plaa Neung Manao (Steamed whole fish with lime and chiles) Plaa Neung Si Ew (Steamed whole fish with soy sauce, ginger, and vegetables) Plaa Phao Kleua (Grilled salt-crusted fish with chile dipping sauce) Plaa Thawt Lat Phrik (Deep-fried whole fish with chile sauce) Aep Plaa (Curried fish grilled in banana leaves) CHAPTER 5 Phat (Stir-fries) Phat Khanaeng (Stir-fried Brussels sprouts) Phat Fak Thawng (Northern Thai–style stir-fried squash) Phak Buung Fai Daeng (Stir-fried water spinach) Phat Phak Ruam Mit (Stir-fried mixed vegetables) Puu Phat Phong Karii (Crab stir-fried with curry powder) CHAPTER 6 Laap (Thai minced-meat salads) Laap Meuang (Northern Thai minced pork salad) DA CHOM Laap Pet Isaan (Isaan minced duck salad) Laap Plaa Duuk Isaan (Isaan minced catfish salad) CHAPTER 7 Khong Yaang (Grilled foods) Muu Kham Waan (Grilled pork neck with spicy dipping sauce and iced greens) Sii Khrong Muu Yaang (Thai-style pork ribs) Sai Ua Samun Phrai (Northern Thai–style herbal sausage) Kai Yaang (Whole roasted young chicken) MR. LIT Muu Sateh (Pork satay) Khao Phot Ping (Grilled corn with salty coconut cream) CHAPTER 8 Kaeng, Tom, & Co. (Curries and soups) Kaeng Jeut Wun Sen (“Bland” soup with glass noodles) Jaw Phak Kat (Northern Thai mustard green soup with tamarind and pork ribs) Jin Hoom Neua (Northern Thai stewed beef soup) Yam Jin Kai (Northern Thai chicken soup) Kaeng Khiaw Waan Luuk Chin Plaa (Green curry with fish balls and eggplant) Kaeng Som Kung (Sour curry with shrimp) Kaeng Khanun (Northern Thai young jackfruit curry) Kaeng Hung Leh (Burmese-style pork belly curry) CHAPTER 9 Naam Phrik (Chile dips) Naam Phrik Num (Green chile dip) Naam Phrik Plaa Thuu (Grilled-fish dip) Naam Phrik Ong (Northern Thai pork and tomato dip) Naam Phrik Kha (Dry-fried galangal-chile dip) CHAPTER 10 Aahaan Jaan Diaw (The one-plate meal) Khao Kha Muu (Pork shank stewed with five spice) Kai Kaphrao Khai Dao (Stir-fried chicken with hot basil) Khao Phat Muu (Thai-style fried rice with pork) Khao Man Som Tam (Papaya salad with coconut rice and sweet pork) Khao Tom (Thai rice soup) Kuaytiaw Pet Tuun (Stewed duck noodle soup) Kuaytiaw Reua (Boat noodles) Ba Mii Tom Yam Muu Haeng (Spicy, sweet, tart noodles with pork, peanuts, and herbs) Kung Op Wun Sen (Shrimp and glass noodles baked in a clay pot) Khao Soi Kai (Northern Thai curry noodle soup with chicken) Phat Si Ew (Stir-fried rice noodles with pork, Chinese broccoli, and soy sauce) Phat Thai (Stir-fried rice noodles with shrimp, tofu, and peanuts) Hoi Thawt (Broken crepe with mussels) Kuaytiaw Khua Kai (Stir-fried noodles with chicken, egg, and cuttlefish on lettuce) Khanom Jiin Naam Yaa (Thai rice noodles with fish-and-krachai curry) Khanom Jiin Naam Ngiew (Thai rice noodles with Northern Thai curry) AJAAN SUNEE Phat Khanom Jiin (Stir-fried Thai rice noodles) CHAPTER 11 Aahaan Farang (Foreign food) Stir-Fried Yunnan Ham with Chiles Chả cá Lã Vọng (Vietnamese turmeric-marinated catfish with noodles and herbs) Ike’s Vietnamese Fish-Sauce Wings CHAPTER 12 Khong Waan (Sweets) Khanom Bataeng Laai (Northern Thai melon custard) Khao Niaw Mamuang (Sticky rice with mango and salty-sweet coconut cream) Khao Niaw Sankhaya Turian (Sticky rice with durian custard) Khanom Pang Ai Tiim (Thai-style ice cream sandwich) Pok Pok Affogato CHAPTER 13 Sundry Items (Stock, Condiments, and Pantry Staples) Sup Kraduuk Muu (Pork stock) Muu Deng (Bouncy pork balls) Khai Tom (Eight-minute eggs) Phrik Phon Khua (Toasted-chile powder) Khao Khua (Toasted–sticky rice powder) Krathiem Jiaw and Naam Man Krathiem (Fried garlic and garlic oil) Hom Daeng Jiaw and Naam Man Hom Daeng (Fried shallots and shallot oil) Kapi Kung (Homemade shrimp paste) Naam Makham (Tamarind water) Naam Cheuam Naam Taan Piip (Palm sugar simple syrup) Naam Jim Kai (Sweet chile dipping sauce) Naam Jim Kai Yaang (Tamarind dipping sauce) Jaew (Spicy, tart dipping sauce for meat) Phrik Naam Som (Sour chile dipping sauce) Naam Jim Seafood (Spicy, tart dipping sauce for seafood) Naam Jim Sateh (Peanut sauce) Yam Makheua Thet (Fish sauce–soaked tomatoes) Ajaat (Cucumber relish) Cu Cai (Pickled carrot and daikon radish) Phrik Tam Naam Som (Grilled-chile vinegar) Phrik Naam Plaa (Fish sauce–soaked chiles) Phrik Naam Som (Vinegar-soaked chiles) Naam Phrik Phao (Roasted chile paste) ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INDEX