picnics DELICIOUS RECIPES FOR OUTDOOR ENTERTAINING Sara Deseran Photographs by Jonelle Weaver CHRONICLE BOOKS SAN FRANCISCO Text copyright © by Chronicle Books LLC 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 Photographs copyright © 2004 by Jonelle Weaver All rights reserved. No part of this book may be Chronicle Books LLC reproduced in any form without written permission 680 Second Street from the publisher. San Francisco, California 94107 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: www.chroniclebooks.com Deseran, Sara, Picnics : delicious recipes for outdoor entertaining / Coke is a registered trademark of The Coca-Cola Co., by Sara Deseran; photographs by Jonelle Weaver. Corona is a registered trademark of Cerveceria p. cm. Modelo S.A. DE C.V, Igloo is a registered trademark of Includes index. Igloo Products Corporation, Oreo is a registered trade- ISBN 978-0-8118-4299-0 (hardcover) mark of Nabisco Brands Co,, Pacifico is a registered 1. Outdoor cookery. 2. Picnicking. I. Title. trademark of Cerveceria del Pacifico, A.S. De C.V, TX823.D473 2004 San Pellegrino is a registered trademark of San Pellegrino 641.578—dc22 S.PA., Tabasco is a registered trademark of Mcilhenny Co., 2003017326 Thermos is a registered trademark of King-Seeley Thermos Co., Tupperware is a registered trademark of Manufactured in China, Dart Industries, Tony Chachere's Seasoning is a registered Design; Carole Goodman, Blue Anchor Design trademark of Creole Foods, Inc. of Opelousas. Prop stylist: Paige Hicks Food stylist: Liza Jernow Assistant food stylist: Jennifer Cohen Photographer's assistant: Teresa Morgan Photographer Jonelle Weaver wishes to give special thanks to Paige Hicks, Liza Jernow, Jennifer Cohen, and Teresa Horgan for long hours of work; Scott and Lisa Isherwood, Kate Green, The Parker House Inn, and The Quechee Lakes Association for lovely locations; and Per Furmark for home support. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to everyone that gave feedback on recipes for this book, including Alan andjina, the 7x7 potluck team, and my husband, Colin, Thanks to Leslie and the Chronicle Books staff for calling me up, and I can never say enough to Dad, the dishwasher, and Mom, my silent partner, who developed, shopped, cooked, and tested ten variations of a peach crisp before we decided on a nectarine tart! TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 6 BITS AND BITES 12 Spiced Pine Nuts, Pecans, and Pumpkin Seeds 13 Quick Pickled Veggies 15 Mixed Olives with Orange and Coriander 16 Curried Deviled Eggs 19 Prosciutto and Melon 20 Crusty Focaccia with Rosemary 21 Cheese Course 22 Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa 24 SIMPLY SANDWICHES 25 Fresh Mozzarella, Tomato, and Basil Sandwich 26 Pan Bagnat with Tuna, Tomatoes, and Olives 29 Vietnamese Chicken Sandwich with Carrot-Daikon Slaw 30 Roasted Pork Sandwich with Fennel and Apple 32 Grilled Skirt Steak Sandwich with Salsa Verde 35 Meatloaf Sandwich with Chipotle Mayonnaise 36 Roasted Eggplant and Bell Pepper Sandwich with Herbed Goat Cheese 38 SALADS AND SIDES 39 Green Beans with Almond Butter-Ginger Dressing 40 French Lentils with Roasted Beets and Pancetta 43 Orzo Salad with Green Olives, Tomatoes, and Feta 45 Chopped Spring Salad with Asparagus and Peas 47 Quick Summertime Gazpacho 48 Old-Fashioned Coleslaw with Apples 50 Melon Skewers with Lime and Mint 51 Mangoes with Chile, Lemon, and Salt 52 German-Style Potato Salad with Bacon and Mustard 54 Cajun Potato Salad 55 Cold Soba Noodles and Snap Peas with Sesame Dressing 57 Roasted Chicken Salad with Red Grapes and Pecans 58 MAiN COURSES 59 Cold Slow-Roasted Salmon with Cucumber-Cumin Raita 61 Spanish-Style Tortilla with Potatoes and Spinach 62 Grilled Shrimp, Zucchini, and Tomato Skewers 64 Grilled Beef Skewers with Black Pepper-Lime Dipping Sauce 65 Grilled Sausages with Sweet Roasted Pepper Relish 67 Spicy Turkey Burgers with Tequila 68 DIVINE DESSERTS 69 Moist Chocolate Walnut Cake 70 Lemon and Creme Fraiche Loaf Cake 71 Nectarine Tart 73 Brown Sugar Blondies with Pecans 75 Coconut Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting 76 Toasted Almond Bundt Cake with Raspberries 78 English Berry Summer Pudding 81 Ultimate Chocolate Chip^Oatmeal Cookies 82 REFRESHING DRINKS 83 Honey-Ginger Lemonade 85 Watermelon-Lime Agua Fresca 87 Mojitos 88 Shandy Beer 88 White Wine Sangria with Cherries 90 MENUS 91 INDEX 94 TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS 96 INTRODUCTION THER'S SOMETHING ABOUT dining room it outdoors that just food better. Utensils are optional; so are tables and chairs. Suddenly; what matters most isn't a linen tablecloth or crystal goblets, but a beautiful vista the of a tree. Maybe it's the fresh air, but with the kitchen far away appetites to grow ravenous. One of the joys of picnicking is that there are no hard rules. The idyllic you see in movies (you know, the one with a wicker red-and- white checked blanket laid out in a breezy meadow dotted with poppies) is just of countless scenarios, In life, a picnic is just as likely to be a reward at the end of a long hike, a backyard barbecue under a low-slung oak, or a romantic brown-bag lunch for two in a city park. It's a party a beach cookout, and a playground potluck. And are so many good to it outside. Picnics the most of a stunning summer day and the view of a setting sun. With no confines of a house, there's plenty of for the (and the adults) to play. And from a practical standpoint, cleaning up isn't much of an issue. No dusting the house the arrive, no washing a mile-high of sil- verware for hours they depart. WHAT TO COOK Perhaps the thing about a picnic is deciding what to Last cooking is out; you have to think about what will hold up for a couple hours out of the fridge. And unfortunately the casual of a picnic everyone's standards, relegating it to a spread of soda, hot dogs, and chips. But are plenty of ways to a picnic that's just as as your last dinner party without making a pit stop at the mini-mart. A homemade can grilled to (just don't skimp on the buns). Summer berry pudding—a 20-minute endeavor— the bag of Oreos. And If nothing a of fruit, cured meats, and a crusty baguette is a no-cook guarantee. Still, It's fun to the bar for occasions: a wedding anniversary calls for cold salmon, asparagus salad, and a frosty bottle of cham- (maybe In crystal flutes); a birthday a party 6 picnics with homemade coconut cupcakes. Even sandwiches don't have to be made up of deli meats and presliced cheese. Try a roasted eggplant sandwich with herbed goat or a spicy Vietnamese sandwich stuffed with a crunchy daikon and carrot slaw, WINE, BEER SPIRITS, AND COOLERS (AND LOTS OF WATER) Food may be the centerpiece of a good picnic, but don't neglect the choice. Although winter picnics call for a thermos of mulled cider, most pic- nicking Is done when the summer sun is out, On sweltering days, a good refreshing drink can be the highlight of the menu. Most Importantly think light, For beers, pilsners and are perfect, Icy bottles of Mexican labels, like Corona and Pacifico, are always good, especially when topped with a wedge of lime. When choosing wines, go for easy-drinking choices such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, drier Rieslings (look for from Australia), and PInot Grigio; whites tend to be more food-friendly (and hot weather friendly) than the ever-popular buttery and oaky Chardonnays. Good quality are also another wonderful choice. (And don't completely dismiss all reds; a Beaujolals Nouveau, slightly chilled, Is another excellent option.) Unless a special occasion demands the very best champagne, there are plenty of affordable sparkling wines that will go well with everything from a sandwich to slow-roasted salmon. Look for an Italian Prosecco or a Spanish Cava. A bottle of these sprightly sparklers Is reasonably priced and provides something that's both delicious and casual. Although martinis aren't what you're looking for, mixed drinks are another option. For a picnic, It's best to go heavy on the fresh-fruit mixers and light on the spirit. Try slices of fresh pineapple stirred into pineapple juice mixed with tequila, and a splash of grenadine or an icy pitcher of fresh- squeezed lime margaritas, Sangria, made with either red or white wine, Is fun. Fresh herbs add a nice twist: the mojito, a popular Cuban drink, is made with copious amounts of fragrant mint, and a few crushed leaves of lemon verbena or pineapple delicately add another dimension to a glass of sparkling wine. Virgin coolers are a wonderful alternative to the usual Igloo Ml of Coke. Offer things like fresh lemonade with ginger and honey or Iced tea made with any number of teas (both herbal and black) or mixed with cranberry or hibiscus juice. Mexican-inspired aguas frescas made with purees of fresh fruit such as watermelon, cantaloupe, or mango are also wonderful. introduction 7 And last, but not least, don't forget the water—still water (sparkling waters often have sodium in them). Keep a cooler full of bottled water or a pitcher or two out on the table. You don't want your guests to get dehydrated. PACK IT UP Once you've got your picnic prepared, it's time to get it ready to go. A good selection of airtight plastic containers is essential to have on hand. Not only do they things fresh, they more delicate items like vegetables and fruit from getting crushed. Tiny containers are perfect for storing salad dress- ings until it's time to the salad, and will a handful of sliced almonds crisp until you're ready to scatter them over the beans. Long, flat containers work well for transporting meats, prepped to throw on the grill. And there's no need to transfer a salad from a plastic container to a proper serving bowl once you arrive at the picnic. Tupperware and other brands now make attractive bowls that are meant to serve both purposes; just remove the top and use the container to serve. Of course, certain things can be toted in heavy-duty lock-top plastic bags. This often works well for marinating meats. As for sandwiches? Plastic wrap is fine, but the moisture it traps inside can make crusty breads, such as a baguette, get soft. If you want to maintain the bread's integrity take a note from your local deli and wrap the sandwiches in something like thin butcher paper or even parchment paper. Once you've got your food prepared, pack it up: from wicker baskets complete with matching real china and silverware to insulated backpacks and wine bottle totes to monster SUV-style coolers that practically have four- wheel drive, as well as umbrellas, canopies, and tents—there's no shortage of options for serious picnicking. In fact, there are shops and Web devoted to it. Although your choices are endless, when purchasing your picnic carri- ers, make sure to consider what kind of picnicking you plan to do. If you hike, a backpack makes (there are those that hold enough for a party of two or a party of four). If you do a lot of big beach barbecues, you might consider a large hard-topped cooler. And if you're just walking from your apartment to the city park, consider a soft, collapsible cooler with a shoulder strap. If none of this is in your budget, or you only picnic on occasion, any plain old, non-insu- lated backpack or a big farmers' market^style basket—both packed with lock- top plastic bags and ice packs—should do you just fine. 8 picnics DRESS IT UP They might not be four star style, but tableware choices are too. For a little fiesta, try setting a Mexican-inspired picnic table with a bright, floral-patterned oil cloth that can be wiped down with ease. Inexpensive woven mats, available at most import stores, are perfect for rolling out on either sand or lawn and tend to stay drier than a blanket. If nothing just throw down a tarp to avoid getting wet grass stains on your grandmother's quilt, For a more comfortable picnic, one item that's worth investing in is a lightweight folding chair made of canvas and aluminum. They even come with their own shoulder-bag carriers. When it comes to setting the table, a large party almost requires sturdy paper plates, but for a smaller party, invest in some unbreakable acrylic. Much sturdier than cheaper plastic, acrylic picnic ware conies in all sorts of stylish shapes and colors, in everything from glasses to plates and bowls. And of all, it can be used again and again with no waste. Although the whole point of a picnic is to it simple, there's nothing wrong with adding a little something to set the mood, For a twilight picnic, candles—citronella candles in particular—add a flicker of light and the mosquitoes at bay. Paper Chinese lanterns—even with no lights in them— look festive strung between and a few sprays of freshly picked wildflowers add a little cheer. And if you're up camp in a park, it's a good to display a little wind sock or some satin streamers to help your guests find your location. PICNIC FOOD SAFETY Of course, being outdoors means dealing with the elements that come with it. And when it comes to food safety the sun is your enemy. When transporting and serving food outdoors, remember that it needs some special treatment. are basic rules to follow: for the Picnic Chill all food thoroughly in the refrigerator first, then pack it in a cooler surrounded by ice packs. Be especially cautious with perishable food, specif- ically meat, seafood, and eggs. Pack any raw meat in drip-proof containers at the bottom of the cooler, in case of spills; this will help to avoid contaminating everything else. The ideal temperature to store perishable food is 40°F or below. Never partly cook something to finish off at the picnic. Bacteria thrive in moderate temperatures. Introduction 9