Pattern Sew a Perfect Fit Every Time PP AA TT Create perfectly fi tting garments every time with the tried and true TT Fitting techniques Nancy Zieman has crafted over the past 25 years. EE RR For beginning to advanced seamstresses, Pattern Fitting With NN Confi dence provides simple ways to achieve professional-looking tailored jackets, dresses, pants and tops — for all body shapes. FF II wwiitthh ccoonnfifi ddeennccee It includes: TT TT • Comprehensive instructions, plus exceptional illustrations to II guide you through each stage NN • Analysis of the design, focusing on pattern plot and manipulation GG • Clear guidelines regarding preparation w • Standard chart measurements i t h c o 26 27 2829 30 Nancy Zieman’s expert advice n 1413121110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 gives you the confi dence and fi d know-how to create perfectly Nancy Zieman e fi tting garments every time! n c e About the Author Nancy Zieman is host and executive producer of PBS’ ultra-popular Sewing With Nancy television sewing program, founder of Nancy’s Notions — a premier mail-order catalog and retail store specializing in sewing notions, supplies and accessories, and Executive Producer for Nancy Zieman Productions. Nancy is the author of Sew with Confi dence, Serge with Confi dence, Quilt with Z Confi dence, Machine Embroidery with Confi dence and i e co-author of The Art of Landscape Quilting. m a US $24.99 n Z1084 (CAN $27.50) ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-574-4 ISBN-10: 0-89689-574-2 52499 PC N U A E 0 FnL1 04 0120 01 JUYrVyBQdWJsaWNhdGlvbnMsIEluYyAo 02 SW9sYSBkaXZpc2lvbikPR3JlZ29yeSBL 03 cnVlZ2VyAEbz9AEEMTAuNAI4MAExBVVQ 04 Qy1BDDA3NDk2MjAwNTc0OAA= 74962 00574 8 9 FnL1 04 0124 01 JUYrVyBQdWJsaWNhdGlvbnMsIEluYyAo 02 SW9sYSBkaXZpc2lvbikPR3JlZ29yeSBL 03 cnVlZ2VyAEfrvHcEMTAuNAI4MAExBkVB 04 Ti0xMw05NzgwODk2ODk1NzQ0AA== 780896 895744 Pattern Fitting wwiitthh ccoonnfifi ddeennccee Nancy Zieman © 2009 by Nancy Zieman. All right reserved. The patterns and drawings in this book are for personal use of the reader. By permission of the author and publisher, they may be either hand-traced or photocopied to make single copies, but under no circumstances may they be resold or republished. It is permissible for the purchaser to make the projects contained herein and sell them at fairs, bazaars and craft shows. No other part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by an electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote a brief passage in review. Published by KP Craft Books, an imprint of F+W Publications, Inc., 4700 East Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, Ohio 45236. (800) 289-0963. First edition. Distributed in Canada by Fraser Direct 100 Armstrong Avenue Georgetown, ON, Canada L7G 5S4 Tel: (905) 877-4411 Distributed in the U.K. and Europe by David & Charles Brunel House, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ12 4PU, England Tel: (+44) 1626 323200, Fax: (+44) 1626 323319 E-mail: [email protected] Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link P.O. Box 704, S. Windsor, NSW 2756 Australia Tel: (02) 4577-3555 Library of Congress Control Number: 2008925804 ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-574-4 ISBN-10: 0-89689-574-2 Edited by Jay Staten Illustrations and Design: Laure Noe Photographs: Dale Hall and Keith Glasgow Nancy's Notions Editorial Staff: Pat Hahn and Diane Dhein Manufactured in China. 13 12 11 10 09 5 4 3 2 1 Publisher’s Preface It is our great pleasure to publish Nancy Zieman’s Pattern Fitting with Confi dence. Like the previous books in the “with Confi dence” series, this is an easy-to-understand, easy-to-implement guide, written by today’s foremost expert. We know you will enjoy learning the techniques that will make your garment sewing successful every time. Nancy Zieman celebrates the silver anniversary of her popular PBS television show Sewing with Nancy. It is a fi tting time for this book to be published. Through 25 years, Nancy has guided her audience through the techniques that make us all better craftspeople. Her easygoing manner and “can do” attitude is part of every show, just has it has been part of every book she has written for Krause Publications. We invite you to get started with Pattern Fitting with Confi dence, making every garment a unique, well-tailored addition to your wardrobe. Look for Nancy’s other “with Confi dence” books: Quilt with Confi dence Machine Embroidery with Confi dence Serge with Confi dence And also The Art of Landscape Quilting by Nancy Zieman and Natalie Sewell Table of Contents Chapter One: Getting Started .........................................................................................................6 Choosing the Right Pattern Size ........................................................................................................8 Taking Accurate Measurements ........................................................................................................10 Choosing Your Pattern Type .............................................................................................................12 Comparing Measurements ................................................................................................................13 Choosing a Streamlined Style ...........................................................................................................15 Allowing Design Ease ........................................................................................................................16 Learning to Pivot and Slide ...............................................................................................................17 Chapter Two: Basic Fitting Changes ...........................................................................................18 Bustline Changes ...............................................................................................................................20 Dart Changes .....................................................................................................................................23 Hipline Changes ................................................................................................................................26 Waistline Changes .............................................................................................................................28 Sleeve Changes ...................................................................................................................................29 Shoulder Changes.............. ................................................................................................................32 Back Changes............................................................ .........................................................................38 Hemline Changes...............................................................................................................................42 Sleeve Length Changes......................................... .............................................................................44 Chapter Three: Combining Fitting Techniques.................................... ...................................46 Combining Fitting Changes on One Worksheet.............................. ................................................48 Typical Combined Fitting Changes................................................................... ...............................52 Adding Extensions.................................................................................................... .........................57 Chapter Four: Fitting Skirts................................................................... ........................................58 Waist Changes......................................................... ...........................................................................60 Waist and Waistband Changes................................................................ ..........................................62 Hip Changes.......................................................................................................................................64 Fitting for a High Hip...................................................................................................... ..................66 Hem Changes........................................................................................................ .............................67 Combining Fitting Changes ..............................................................................................................70 Chapter Five: Fitting Pants................................................................................................ .............72 Determining Size...................................................................................................................... .........74 Measuring the Pattern........................................................................................................ ...............78 First Worksheet: Hem Length Changes........................................................................ ....................82 Fitting the Side Curve.............................................................................. ..........................................84 Fitting the Crotch....................................................................................................... .......................86 Second Worksheet: Waist Width Changes................................................... .....................................92 Fitting the Hip.................................................................................... ...............................................95 Fitting the Thigh............................................................................................................... .................96 Width Combinations............................................................................................... ..........................98 Increased Waist, Hip, and Thigh Combinations......................................... ...................................100 Chapter Six: Fine-Tuning the Fit...................................................... ..........................................102 Checking the Fit............................................................................................ ...................................104 Checking for Wrinkles............................................................... ......................................................106 Fine-Tuning Pants Fitting ...............................................................................................................113 References..................................................................................... ......................................................116 Charts............................................................................................ ...................................................117 Index................................................................................................ .................................................124 chapter one Getting Started Fitting is defi nitely a sewing basic! If something doesn’t fi t, you won’t wear it. Take a small amount of time and follow these step-by-step fi tting techniques for a pattern that is “fi t to be tried.” Choosing the Right Pattern Size Choosing pattern size based on bust measurement can result in “gaposis.” The fi rst step to pattern fi tting with confi dence is to choose a pattern size that will give you the best fi t. It is as simple as taking one measurement. Garment shoulder The common measurement used to does not match choose pattern size for a blouse, jacket or fi gure top is your bust measurement. This mea- surement is accurate if your fi gure is well proportioned, but if your bust is large in proportion to the rest of your body or if you have a broad back, the bust measure- Neckline gaps ment gives you a pattern that fi ts your bust from too but gaps at the neckline, the shoulders and much fabric the armholes. “Gaposis” is a common fi tting problem that is diffi cult to correct. The solu- tion? Buy your pattern to fi t your shoulder area. Garment folds The measurement used in this book to determine which pattern size fi ts your shoul- at underarms ders is the Right Size Measurement, taken above the bustline between arm creases. You won’t fi nd the Right Size Measurement printed on the back of the pattern envelope, but it’s quick to take and does not change even if you gain or lose weight. Note from Nancy I fi nd the Right Size Measurement and other body measurements a challenge to take by myself, so I use the buddy system: I call a “sewing buddy” to help me, and I help her. This is the best way to ensure accuracy. Be sure to take the Right Size Measurement while you are wearing a camisole or leotard so that your arm creases are evident. 8 Pattern Fitting with Confi dence Right Size Measurement • Find the crease in your skin where your arm meets your body. • Measure above the end of one crease straight across the front chest to the end of the other crease. 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910111213141516171819202122232425262728 • Round off the measurement to the nearest ½". Even though the Right Size Measurement and its corresponding sizes are not written on the back of the pattern envelope, the sizing is easy to remember. Misses’ size 14 equals 14", and the sizes go up or down with every ½". For example, if your measurement is 13½", buy a size 12. If you measure 14½" select a size 16. Note from Nancy You may be pleasantly surprised by the results of the Right Size Measurement. It is common for someone who has been sewing with a size 20 pattern in order to fi t her bust to fi nd out she is actually a size 16! If you are unsure which of two sizes to use, go with the smaller size. It is easier to increase the bustline on a pattern than to decrease the shoulder and neck area. Right Size Measurement Fitting Chart Measurement 12" 12½" 13" 13½" 14" 14½" 15" 15½" 16" 16½" 17" 17½" Misses’/Petites 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Juniors 5 7 9 11 13 15 Women’s 38 40 42 44 46 48 Getting Started 9