Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high- calibre titles on textile science and technology. 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Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 137 Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD How to use Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software M. Stott Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge CB22 3HJ, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com www.woodheadpublishingonline.com Woodhead Publishing, 1518 Walnut Street, Suite 1100, Philadelphia, PA 19102-3406, USA Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India www.woodheadpublishingindia.com First published 2012, Woodhead Publishing Limited © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 The author has asserted her moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. 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Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identifi cation and explanation, without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Control Number: 2012949950 ISBN 978-0-85709-231-1 (print) ISBN 978-0-85709-709-5 (online) ISSN 2042-0803 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (print) ISSN 2042-0811 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (online) The publisher’s policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elemental chlorine-free practices. Furthermore, the publisher ensures that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. Typeset by Toppan Best-set Premedia Limited, Hong Kong Printed and bound in the UK by the MPG Books Group Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 Contents Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xi Disclaimer xvii Preface xix Chapter 1 The role of patterns in clothing manufacture: 1 generating and communicating information 1.1 Introduction: the Pattern Cutter’s place in apparel 1 production 1.2 The pattern cutting team 2 1.3 Specifi cations, measurement charts and other 3 documents 1.4 Computerised documentation 5 1.5 Tools of the trade 6 Chapter 2 Introduction to the keyboard, mouse and screen 7 layout in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 2.1 Introduction to Modaris 7 2.2 The keyboard 9 2.3 The mouse 10 2.4 The Modaris home screen layout 11 2.5 Navigating the home screen: the x-axis and y-axis 11 2.6 Bringing up different screens and moving 12 them around 2.7 Practice exercise 13 Chapter 3 Title blocks in Lectra Modaris pattern 14 cutting software 3.1 Introduction: information for patterns 14 3.2 Title blocks 15 v Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 vi Contents 3.3 Model identifi cation sheet 16 3.4 Individual sheet 17 3.5 Variant 19 3.6 Industry example 22 Chapter 4 Digitising a clothing pattern on Lectra Modaris 24 pattern cutting software 4.1 Introduction: digitising hardware 24 4.2 Digitising with or without seam allowances 26 4.3 Pattern preparation 28 4.4 The digitising process 33 4.5 Handset button notes 37 4.6 Digitising problems 37 Chapter 5 Plotting using JustPrint 38 5.1 Introduction to JustPrint V2R2 38 5.2 How to plot out a model using JustPrint 39 5.3 How to plot single pieces 43 5.4 JustPrint settings 44 5.5 Geometry 46 5.6 Text 50 5.7 Layout 52 5.8 Cutfi le confi guration and HPGL 52 Chapter 6 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris 53 pattern cutting software: F1–F3 6.1 Introduction 53 6.2 F1: creating lines and points 56 6.3 F2: notches, orientation and geometric shapes 62 6.4 F3: modifying lines and points 65 Chapter 7 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris 69 pattern cutting software: F4–F8 7.1 Introduction 69 7.2 F4: fi nishing, seam allowances, corners and 69 grain lines 7.3 F5: derived pieces 75 7.4 F6: grading 76 7.5 F7: evolution system 77 7.6 F8: measuring and assembly 78 Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 Contents vii Chapter 8 The upper tool bar in Lectra Modaris 84 pattern cutting software 8.1 Upper tool bar 84 8.2 File menu 85 8.3 Edit menu 88 8.4 Sheet menu 89 8.5 Corner tools menu 91 8.6 Display menu 92 8.7 Sizes menu 95 8.8 Selection menu 96 8.9 Macro menu 96 8.10 Layers menu 97 8.11 Parameters menu 98 8.12 Confi gure menu 99 8.13 Tool menu 99 8.14 Help menu 99 Chapter 9 The lower tool bar menus and keyboard 100 commands in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 9.1 Lower tool bar 100 9.2 Notch tools 100 9.3 Marks (F1 – Relative point) 101 9.4 Corner tools (F4 – Corners) 101 9.5 Axis (F4 – Axis) 101 9.6 Grading 101 9.7 Curve points 102 9.8 Print 102 9.9 Cut piece 102 9.10 FPattern 102 9.11 User arrangement 102 9.12 Control keys RHS 102 9.13 Control keys LHS 103 9.14 Shift 104 9.15 Control (Ctrl) 104 9.16 Number pad 104 Chapter 10 Converting fi les using the Lectra 105 interoperability function 10.1 I ntroduction to the fi le conversion procedure 105 10.2 Export procedure 106 10.3 Confi rming conversion has taken place 109 Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 viii Contents 10.4 Email attachments 109 10.5 Import procedure 110 10.6 Error messages 113 10.7 Additional personal interoperability notes 114 Chapter 11 Creating size ranges in Lectra Modaris 117 pattern cutting software 11.1 Introduction 117 11.2 Terminology 118 11.3 How to create a size range 119 11.4 Attaching a size range to a model 121 11.5 How to change a size range 122 11.6 Size correspondence 122 Chapter 12 The importance of measurements and size 123 charts for pattern cutting 12.1 Introduction: the importance of measurements 123 for clothing 12.2 The development of 124 clothing patterns 12.3 The emergence of modern clothing patterns 125 12.4 The development of sizing surveys and sizing charts 126 12.5 The infl uence of body shape and size on 127 measurements 12.6 Using and comparing sizing and grading charts 129 12.7 Current approaches to sizing 131 12.8 Using a size chart to make clothing patterns 133 12.9 References 133 Chapter 13 How do I? The functions and menus that you 134 need to know in Lectra Modaris indexed by the required action 13.1 Introduction 134 13.2 Create or add 134 13.3 Copy 136 13.4 Delete 136 13.5 Digitise 136 13.6 Display 136 13.7 Join 136 13.8 Move 137 13.9 Moving around the screen 137 13.10 Select or choose 137 13.11 Separate 137 Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012 Contents ix 13.12 Undo 137 13.13 Zoom 138 Appendix 1 Pattern numbering 139 Appendix 2 Recommended abbreviati ons for naming pattern 144 pieces in Lectra Modaris Appendix 3 Keyboard commands by alphabet 146 Appendix 4 Lectra Modaris terminology glossary 149 Index 151 Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission (http://www.lectra.com); text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012