spine=.771” Travel With tips and recommendations from the experts at 5th Edition Enjoy a magnifique trip to Paris Open the book Pa r i s and find: Stroll the Champs-Elysées, visit the top of the Eiffel Tower, or linger in a cozy café. Take in the theater, a symphony, P (cid:127) D own-to-earth or dance the night away. Enjoy trip-planning advice a gourmet French cuisine or a picnic in the park. Savor a café au lait or a glass (cid:127) What you shouldn’t miss — and what you can skip r of Beaujolais. Go power shopping or bargain hunting. With this guide, i (cid:127) The best hotels and restaurants s you’re ready for your exciting bon for every budget voyage! (cid:127) Lots of detailed maps travel smart @ www.dummies.com $16.99 US / $19.99 CN / £11.99 UK ISBN 978-0-470-38218-9 5 t h E d i t i o Cheryl A. Pientka n spine=.771” ISBN 978-0-470-38218-9siPont de ra PrLevalloise3 uessuoiiBécondqnnlf eSt-DenisieeeelPorte de la ChapelleyiDrDtseMairie dePorte de rrUniversitéa--aol4ttBPCSPSSt-OuenClignancourt12 Gabriel Péri-Asnières 1313La Courneuve7GennevilliersAnatoleGaribaldi8 Mai 1945SimplonAubervilliers–PantinFranceJulesLamarck4 Chemins Marx DormoyPorte de St-OuenMairieJoffrinCaulaincourt FortMarcadetde ClichyLouiseGuyd’AubervilliersPorte dePoissonniersAbbessesCriméePMichelBobigny–Pablo PicassoMôquetoClichylrChâteau RougeCatBrochant PigalleoeAnversr CVieEglise dePéreiredalPorte dePorte delLa FourcherBarbèsneBlancheietitoWagramPantintnChamperretChamperretuRochechouart5Riquet-ePlace de ClichyMalesherbesBobigny–St-GeorgesLa ChapelleLa ChapelleRomePantinLiègeGare duGare duGare duNotre-DameStalingradStalingradRaymond OurcqHocheTrinitéMonceauNordNordNordde LoretteQueneauEuropePorte de1Esplanade de La DéfenseEsplanade de La 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FochPARISÉtoileÉtoileÉtoilePréfectureRosnyLe PecqLes HallesMuséeAv. H. MartinInvalidessous-BoisPont deNeuillyBryNoisyNeuillyNeuillyBryBryValBussySt-Germain-A4d’OrsayGare de LyonBoulainvilliers l’AlmaPlaisanceLognessur-MarneChampsPlaisancePlaisancesur-Marnesur-Marned’EuropeSt-GeorgesRueilen-LayeVal deVal deVal deLe VésinetSt-MichelChatouNationKennedyMalmaisonVincennesChamp de MarsFontenayFontenayFontenayN.-D. CentreCroissyNoisielNoisy-le-GrandTorcyRadio-FranceMarne-la-NogentNogentNogentTour EiffelMont d’EstLuxembourgLuxembourgLuxembourgJavelValléeFontenayBibliothèqueLe PerreuxLe PerreuxLe PerreuxNogentNogentNogentDenfertDenfertDenfertVilliers-sur-MarnePortF. MitterrandChessysous-BoisBd. VictorGaresur-Marnesur-Marnesur-MarneRochereauRochereauRochereauMarneIssyRoyalLe Plessis-TréviseLes BoullereauxIssyd’AusterlitzE4ChampignyIvryGentillyVal de SeineCitéChavilleJoinvillesur-SeineUniversitaireMeudonVélizyle-PontLaplaceChampignyChampignyChampignyMaisons-AlfortVitryVersaillesVal-FleurySt-MaurAlfortvillesur-SeineLe Parc deArcueil–CachanPorchefontaineRive GaucheViroflayViroflayViroflayCréteilC5St-MaurBagneuxRive GaucheRive GaucheRive GaucheLe Vert de MaisonsLes ArdoinesLa VarenneC7Bourg-la-ReineFontenayChennevièresSt-CyrSaux-RoseseChoisyVilleneuve–PrairieB2iSt-Quentin-Parc de SceauxnC8RobinsonSceauxle-RoiSucy–Bonneuileen-YvelinesVersaillesChantiers La Croix de BernyLes SaulesADVilleneuve–TriagePetit JouyJouy-en-JosasOrly–VilleBoissyA2Rungis StationLes LogesAntonyBSaint-LégerEVauboyenAérop. d’OrlyVilleneuve–Saint-GeorgesVilleneuveBièvresCle-RoiRungisParisIgnyLa FraternelleFontaine MichalonAblonOrly-OuestLes BaconnetsAthis MonsAntony station VigneuxCheminCheminCheminMontgeron–Crosnesur-Seineconnection to Orly airport d’Antonyd’Antonyd’AntonyMassy–PalaiseauMassy–PalaiseauMassy–PalaiseauOrly-SudJuvisy-sur-OrgeMassy VerrièresYerresLeShuttle bus to Rungis PalaiseauLozèreGuichetSavignySavignySavignyLongjumeaustation from Orly airportC2Viry-ChâtillonOrsay–VilleBrunoysur-Orgesur-Orgesur-OrgePalaiseauGifCourcellePetit VauxB4ÉpinayÉpinayÉpinayRis-OrangisVillebonBures-sur-Yvettesur-Yvettesur-YvetteGrignyChilly Mazarinsur-Orgesur-Orgesur-OrgeBoussy-Saint-AntoineCentreLa HacquinièreGrand-BourgSte-GenevièveSte-GenevièveSte-GenevièveGravigny BalizySaint-RémyOrangis Boisdes-Boisdes-Boisdes-Boislès ChevreuseÉvryCombs-la-Ville–Quincyde l’ÉpineSt-Michel sur-OrgeCorbeil–EssonnesBrétignyÉvryLa NorvilleLieusaint–MoissyLe Brassur-OrgeCourcouronnesMoulin-GalantSt-Germain-lès-Arpajonde-FerMarolles-en-HurepoixSavigny-le-Temple–NandyMennecyArpajonBallancourtBreuilletBourayÉglyLa Ferté-AlaisBruyèresDourdanBreuilletCessonBoutignyLardyla-ForêtDourdanVillageSt-ChéronSermaisele-ChâtelMaisseChamarandeLe Mée-sur-SeineBuno–GironvilleC4SeineÉtréchyBoignevilleC6ÉtampesD2D4MelunMalesherbesSaint-Martin d’Étampes 01_382189-ffirs.qxp 2/20/09 8:16 PM Page i Plan your trip with For Dummies Covering the most popular destinations in North America and Europe, For Dummiestravel guides are the ultimate user-friendly trip planners. 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Go to www.dummies.com or call 1-877-762-2974 to order direct. 01_382189-ffirs.qxp 2/20/09 8:16 PM Page iii Paris FOR DUMmIES ‰ s 5 TH EDITION by Cheryl A. Pientka 01_382189-ffirs.qxp 2/20/09 8:16 PM Page iv Paris For Dummies®, 5th Edition Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 www.wiley.com Copyright © 2009 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permit- ted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. 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For technical support, please visit www.wiley.com/techsupport. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. ISBN: 978-0-470-38218-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 01_382189-ffirs.qxp 2/20/09 8:16 PM Page v About the Author Cheryl A. Pientkaworks in book publishing and has contributed to France For Dummies and Europe For Dummies. A graduate of Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism and the University of Delaware, she lives in New York City. Dedication To my mother, Mary Anne Pientka, to the memory of her husband and my father, Philip Pientka, and in honor of Francis LyHon Patterson III. Acknowledgements Thank you, thank you, and merci to Jamie Ehrlich; and once again, to the terrific Joseph Alexiou. To all my running buds, especially Kim, Brit, Jasmine, and Denny, to the dedicted people who have welcomed me into their volunteer fold, finding homes for so many cats and dogs, my relatives in PA, DE, FL, and Eire, and to you, the reader -- Ihope you’ll find Paris everything you dreamed. 01_382189-ffirs.qxp 2/20/09 8:16 PM Page vi Publisher’s Acknowledgments We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/. Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Composition Services Editors:Jamie Ehrlich, Development Project Coordinator: Erin Smith Editor; Michael Brumitt, Layout and Graphics: Production Editor Reuben W. Davis, Julie Trippetti, Copy Editor: Doreen Russo Christine Williams Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Proofreaders: Debbye Butler, Editorial Assistant: Melissa Cossell Jessica Langan-Peck Indexer: Potomac Indexing, LLC Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cover Photos:Front Credit: © SIME s.a.s/eStock Photo. Description: Paris, Eiffel Tower and pink flow- ers.Back Credit: SIME s.a.s / eStock Photo. Description: Woman in bakery, baguettes in foreground. Cartoons: Rich Tennant (www.the5thwave.com) Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Kristin Ferguson-Wagstaffe, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Kelly Regan,Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings,Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/General User Composition Services Debbie Stailey,Director of Composition Services 02_382189-ftoc.qxp 2/20/09 8:16 PM Page vii Contents at a Glance Introduction.......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Paris.....................................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Paris........................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Paris............................................17 Chapter 3: Deciding When to Go ..................................................31 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Paris....................41 Chapter 4: Managing Your Money ................................................43 Chapter 5: Getting to Paris ............................................................51 Chapter 6: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests..........59 Chapter 7: Taking Care of the Remaining Details........................67 Part III: Settling into Paris................................77 Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented....................................79 Chapter 9: Checking in at Paris’s Best Hotels..............................99 Chapter 10: Dining and Snacking in Paris..................................130 Part IV: Exploring Paris ..................................181 Chapter 11: Discovering Paris’s Best Attractions ....................183 Chapter 12: Shopping the Local Stores......................................239 Chapter 13: Following an Itinerary..............................................273 Chapter 14: Going Beyond Paris: Five Day Trips......................280 Part V: Living It Up After Dark: Paris Nightlife...........................................301 Chapter 15: Applauding the Cultural Scene ..............................303 Chapter 16: Hitting the Clubs and Bars......................................312 Part VI: The Part of Tens.................................325 Chapter 17: Ten (Well, Nine) Places to See Paris — Without the Lines....................................................................327 Chapter 18: Ten-Plus Great Places for a Picnic..........................330 Appendix A: Quick Concierge...........................334 Appendix B: A Glossary of French Words and Phrases...............................................345 Index ............................................................352 02_382189-ftoc.qxp 2/20/09 8:16 PM Page viii Maps at a Glance Paris at a Glance........................................................................................10 Paris Neighborhoods................................................................................82 Hotels in the Heart of the Right Bank (1–4, 8–12, and 16–18)............106 Hotels in the Heart of the Left Bank (5–7 and 13–14) ........................108 Restaurants on the Right Bank..............................................................138 Restaurants on the Left Bank ................................................................140 Light Meals in the Heart of the Right Bank..........................................160 Light Meals in the Heart of the Left Bank ............................................162 Paris’s Top Attractions ..........................................................................184 Notre-Dame de Paris ..............................................................................188 The Louvre ..............................................................................................197 Père-Lachaise Cemetery ........................................................................204 More Fun Things to Do in Paris ............................................................208 Paris Shopping ........................................................................................240 Day Trips from Paris ..............................................................................281 Versailles..................................................................................................283 Fontainebleau..........................................................................................288 Notre-Dame de Chartres ........................................................................291