EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Paris 001_EW_Paris.indd 3 03/04/17 12:48 pm EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Paris 001_EW_Paris.indd 3 03/04/17 12:48 pm 002-003_EW_Paris.indd 2 03/04/17 10:48 am EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Paris Main Contributor Alan Tillier 002-003_EW_Paris.indd 3 03/04/17 12:49 pm Project Editor Heather Jones Art Editor Janis Utton Introducing Paris Editor Alex Gray Designer Vanessa Hamilton Design Assistant Clare Sullivan Great Days in Paris 10 Contributors Chris Boicos, Michael Gibson, Douglas Putting Paris on Johnson, Alan Tillier the Map 14 Photographers Max Alexander, Neil Lukas, Robert O’Dea The History of Illustrators Paris 18 Stephen Conlin, Stephen Gyapay, Maltings Partnership Paris at a Glance 44 This book was produced with the assistance of Websters International Publishers. Paris Through Printed and bound in China the Year 64 First published in Great Britain in 1993 by Dorling Kindersley Limited A River View Tourists on the steps in front of the 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK Sacré-Coeur of Paris 68 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 1994, 1995, 1997 (twice), 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 Copyright © 1993, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 978 0 2412 7733 1 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with French usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. The stunning vaulted ceilings of La Galerie d’Apollon in the Musée du Louvre The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Title page Architect I M Pei’s iconic glass pyramid at the entrance to the Musée du Louvre Front cover image The Eiffel Tower on the Champ de Mars Back cover image Pont de la Tournelle with Notre-Dame in the background 004-005_EW_Paris.indd 4 03/04/17 10:48 am Contents Paris Area by Area Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide Ile de la Cité and Where to Stay 280 Practical Information 358 Ile St-Louis 78 Where to Eat and Getting to Paris 368 The Marais 92 Drink 288 Getting Around Paris 374 Beaubourg and Shops and Markets 312 Les Halles 106 Paris Street Finder 382 Entertainment in Tuileries Quarter 118 Paris 332 General Index 416 St-Germain-des-Prés Children’s Paris 352 Acknowledgments 436 136 Phrase Book 440 Latin Quarter 150 Jardin des Plantes Quarter 162 Luxembourg Quarter 170 Montparnasse 176 Invalides and Eiffel Tower The Seine and the Eiffel Tower viewed from the Pont Alexandre III Quarter 184 Chaillot Quarter 198 Champs-Elysées 206 Opéra Quarter 214 Montmartre 222 Further Afield 232 Eight Guided Walks 260 Arc de Triomphe 004-005_EW_Paris.indd 5 03/04/17 10:48 am 6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get with maps, photographs and detailed the most from your stay in Paris with the illustrations. In addition, eight planned minimum of practical difficulty. The opening walks take you to parts of Paris you might section, Introducing Paris, locates the city otherwise miss. geographi cally, sets modern Paris in its Carefully researched tips for hotels, shops historical context and explains how Parisian and markets, restaurants and bars, sports life changes through the year. Paris at a Glance and entertainment are found in Travellers’ is an overview of the city’s specialities. The Needs, and the Survival Guide has advice on main sightseeing section of the book is Paris everything from posting a letter to catching Area by Area. It describes all the main sights, the Metro. Paris Area by Area The city has been divided into These are clearly located by the section is made simple by 14 sightseeing areas. Each numbers on an Area Map. This is the numbering system used section opens with a portrait of followed by a large scale Street- throughout for the sights. This the area, summing up its by-Street Map focusing on the refers to the order in which they character and history, with a list most interesting part of the are described on the pages that of all the sights to be covered. area. Finding your way about complete the section. Colour-coding on each page makes PARIS AREA BY AREA  93 the area easy to find in the book. 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Qli Uln A tR Th ERe  153 1 AFeltmaohonarceeStcredha tt hea varatco eati raaMs ss dnirar yteoi anonpo ardvprdane ,iia s r cf t miekarahteosnrteeae .r n ianstmnuhhrcleoemiaena ups, b elitmd g aheR hmlraestEesp oiRs sd. is sg Ts.ahothnao thtdswioe isnlnp s SSdtRtPihb1ec2Tacenhhafohxiaa9ooiefntsfpeeeesrnt6écmm etc.ice t soa8tsneRlreetr,laia. mi,oairenu bro m TienyBtirrncnatonehthel o e tyh to oat whe teueSenuo tetkfhL ea hdttaa lr Mwapaaea‑enllsl teyJrflnbstvo n i ea ehcit khdda-cynalh ciannioanr e adntb‑ctq dedocemsiinhslldcs uo wpemr osSte baot yege rieftnth Atal eeSs-shst eae,esMu shg co -i eknoo wss neonoerf i i Seffsaecrb bnafrms Bhor hts aeo,glostoahoi ortmehvset nb hulopehstmell erynly.s etsnl ’i t.My Pu,usI eem sehean w admt,fi re sco ufaroiii1esitehav éifncdIhsfno8, nlel iat ed etae7tcCbrth nhs swn sin1adoag ea.:eii tr,tdctaIemet s t le uqem iy y et Lsaoldsmhpd ua nofctqaa e r idaahCwfuriitu n s beePilinaiicitd tlsntflréeir,aeh so tbgiih;,ch;te a aasaansoeirmdt.t ncr wn T hStsaktdeoi at hae lsot nQs‑mditsvaoMonust aetb .e, tt yihMrteh c u,o,fi a ehmrettafMLosonhe aya eem a elS t ,ro or r bCotlunBnLneVyeD SrT MICHEL SPcfDbDMtohtoMrl-auuiaoeMncvernc nheittidcoeratztahora i ueae esnSi lndghltss R.- ktoo baMaTUiE wnEPRlAHD A E Lythliu.i snece g hS bt e yl RUE Q DUREAU EIL DASU T P RP“fni1E cnis HfTs.MêaIuiht8 nhUTrPr ce uIerPemiCaChon rOeB dHrHceNewg iteTs(Ehu xE 6go (eTca La RmU tCfuEsTafm toG ttAt EtnheL)j oh”Aups aa)Nwkite slDnntrie tEsiet id q htn oetRhehurPgtfUee. eAit e Eh 1U ec3SV etTFRh nlPaJLlettstaaE tiEcohhimvUrruviTtIoeetueeeuerTLt b nui lrInaalPeGwyieotnE3Otstis unre p NtyeNd tAeTytrdag hel oyea tSnL s,.ke,h ki c ttEenbteti -er rehrsnSG eu e tpbnSiiéedhisonslteusvd tt,et -b s actsehwS i hsaeiiQurieaé chineaUranlsv alAue d sty enI.tnt yDiairts flsiEtu en aMl. 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Nashsu oSmwt-bSneé orvened rti nhsi igs3 hmt,s aa, psre.u ch RUE DES ECOLES RUE ST-JACQUERSUE THENARD BLVD ST-GERMAIN RUE LAGRANGE RlT(efhouceuetu a sdrrteruuesd ) F ieinonn uttthhsa eers ra Msett iroudensdee tlsde.t r Ataowg he so. st 4OP1aarda3ncrtdh eih.se i,-ot dcSef etS cit-nnttJhu -utteJurhlu eiroeey.l lni T d1eR-he7nloeest-m-h tlvP e caaac-hunuePulnevatrqr tucweuuhv raheerysae .s s i n A suggested route for a walk 1MOi1n5n ott ehhy. e-eoc nf weM t nAohutreguls derféiy nei sbe Nksuetai lpctditoio nhllngeea.cr elt id oinun sa osuf pmeerdbi elavtael art NSnPtPMhartaoaée-rrS.ivnr s ro2oéo eaw2vsnsntie ed,RLd rsaeeu itusunn echts ca hieoseuod u ttor hs.t feooe A f i bnbe b é MMMeaututruboae lritté Rttsnohuou ebtte hos1 eGer7iq otarhuiulca eshcn nef aodtnlnryet diu tbw srcey athc,a sbiav chmue iotnre nm se. 00 K myaeerdytrse Ssuggested rout1e00100 takes in the most attractive and 2 Street-by-Street Map interesting streets in the area. This gives a bird’s-eye view of the heart of each sightseeing area. The most important buildings are picked out in stronger colour, to help you spot them as you walk around. 006-007_EW_Paris.indd 6 03/04/17 10:48 am HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7 Paris at a Glance 48  INTRODUCING PARIS PARIS AT A GLANCE  49 EctPhoalaecncmhce esme no: atMf rpWau tioseners sut hohminipss , a saGe snacpdrtedi Gocenainf lislce, ries, TsvotPclpwPihoashia3fsottencr3eaieerit i 8 sdseinnsCn’h)rspta ia.s gyn iyetAtipp r.gh an s aa eAmi ondnstdcr’old cdos tiioact a har inmn moc eCin tBunp eahe daolv naucanoereegytrrytgf.cun ea ocaMhhrsiishnnlfa a e ho5utglt vd rhas0sr ee:et stce–oc y nhsc 5livPcloethj e1eimoanrtus.rlvyylg vruvoii’casc nisabre heifg recwciecsyn el tsi a aehsaone sat ne sf cstrr t diPshheeicinla eugalto tr hrleuobepi cscevlraeh’aosi isiofdnre nntp r esi itdcnsolW neaae utnwrctrerri .eetoo hriY n svo(frwios lgsaoPeeu ol aafr es r rr. t seihs i han ip Montmartre Abomvceoh tsahaneicc aeolltf avCra huinrlit st tihs bi sdy em Lcuaoscrsa-iOtveeSlid vab iwcearrsié tiMlh-icC eaaor ,sv etoahunsert. Parks and Squares. The top LBRknauoo imMltw aiannnd tfteohelreme i itsnpst ylefelien, t eoh fsi sca uc Ghlpruetruccrohe- sis. Wiatthnh diist s Ri smec onhinxautiersuSc sorthaef-ne Etoschu fei esnG t s faotPinycatlhehreisissect,. sothitgheh eftors l slaiogrweh istnsh goa rwtew ndo oe psnca trghibeees .md oapn; 00 kmiliolemsetres 0.51 Chaillot Quarter Champs-Elysées TQuuilaerrtieers QOupaértrea r TCrtShihacotirbis-hnsd Pu C eJifaniueh loutasrr nfilluis n–RtiitsthS i1 hfctcei6gih-h nL4mueugo1lrrais euecfn o ihuiinyssr,. InvTaolwideers Q aunadRr tEieivffreerl Seine Std-Gees-rPmréasin- IleB Ldeeeas au lHanb adColiulterésg The Marais Ecoalcohu sr-icgohdtesede.ing area is DTeDrehnôômigmsmi anmeiene eCesCm hrwh Vuouearrrrcuiecahbh lb, a twuonr h tileiheedrese imi nnN ia1tlihp8taeo4r 0lye. on’s LuxQeumarbtoeurrg QLuaatritne r Ile St-Louis NTtrehhoseett o Rrgerera-evtDoaiotalu ncmt acioetahnme, duprnaaitgli lwn V.aicst olerf tH tuog roo tl eadft ea r JardinQ dueasrt Pelrantes PTnWhoarenwe ntN ht’sheé Soeot -P nCPaalanustlsh’siéc Caoaln tS,h aweindatsrea i-nlG isnep nLiroSWgmeevnaldaieitid èsndhbsovit y,eie net tv,sh. - aCifslih n jceeahw psateepalle.ilnel eisd a Montparnasse GdT13h93er2 ea mP0 nmas d( r1imeins0 aoM0rs efoqtt)s uo qtefau ltilshé. niese arly onThe eo wfc thehusetr cfdihnoeeossSr t it lnme- Satehdédevsi eeicnrvittiaynol. 180  PARIS AREA BY AREA MONTPARNASSE  181 MP4S37TAarthmP21T∑TO1TgHcVRaVoVwZbaadS11MqEcu1fvAJB8Sauaepue50eournnehhhi0aaa9iaoaisnaa9earnemcslovsatmalb00ernpms2atntlnnfr2mdddieerk g8tsei a er d a- p0séa 1 nrozid.s lVCRMtnt)eeLpebiD Ce8o Bo a0s k–k i,. og1Cpa4ebte GGRsaD -tAyfnmserp1Ti -sSlhrs 1siinusro s.dwmvevhclnaurmertuu Pcne i5ul o6e1etnnooob é .a1aMZdiadirwgsu rRkuscm l5ed esenas ne8s,meIt sopsyr tggiD sa n ap0aut tiho enAclr a,dmJus taW ert2’eC4net ecmtoiss plub1dhh2miMeisodapaiatpopmei ulrrdg–s2ul n aoeatlb sès .h iaesryrdtsou, kn a 4t h dd 3 nétoS o .CdsndTirvo1Meh R7it.l hetsppuco soe i9nacssuirra. ’ o eanoAO tyn6arer7 ttd-it,doiutaaat,.i atareoilne anef us lim5ibtrn hals oupliliersMeeplBrco btEi tn 2erpmsudeion tyi0std4esfuv,veido iens 2èsio ro 0e leaa nna,vtts1n1-mcEpn uiilnsh (e ie e.iZmer7.cpn i.s rsaen rrf.tfd ctme E oe9.dvx aTfthqmson4o rilónqr ,d5a ,uwWan7a ahr gsvaee M eoop,ednh21m3Jeeaa sivr sr e m5trmm9toes pdla-sndos ae0 dsmt 7rcod-n ePveehas2a1Hl2 ol hcstuenlaaedOtRieesNw s iua, eo .01r nnit .ef hd e.uhsm admsdshs siodeasdd il tNntsc7n o6.lldhsi&sinlddn o1uess eshopksle naipaOloae i. ie t– pdt gopg iiili4KuDo gne tr urrarMginpoorsat votnW1h6reephs7 ak.v tielau,es r t r 2 a hlenai psnnm9 8oac-Cii,t5i3niseaneseaiweVn nlhm0rDnarttkhv .smfd.0en6ei pn ree aulnb e ku.risdardiSuieeo ewa 1henie soe7 d. d st, m dt bi aenhm1am iITbc4undp tn,e tecn .Im at 6u eo n,i.dah3iyb -d rt. bges erns’r& esi0 n lrdeE. styn k-o nly a gi–5 1 c yg sf.t. . 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They are listed in order, you will need to plan your visit. following the numbering on the Area Map. Practical information on opening 226  PARIS AReA By AReA monTmARTRe  227 hours, telephone numbers, websites, 1 Sacré-Coeur The Siege of Paris ViSiTOrS’ ChECKliST Tbaavdheaem fi olkaisuebsnyiloe dt no ios c tnghh itevah ersgeny emb fsoa bacr noke dlafls c afuhapsc .esiildgit ihceats.n ACbsoRitpPdBTcunhhohanoyneuratveo onrzetsthsitailh ijaihuls sdslaesgab eno.tel1iu cundoWaaactl 9tliogsrisrn tc nc1Foatw.i uh ld hr9Tdetbirotatcaikehu, eobu.f cnas w TersnbFsrwh cctpwehyihl eueanhewoai eegawtk re urbke dacnseatksr ee hs weo nnts ycF ro h dmff,ose oor ou inelpaitn mif creiph v mn anet wSan1ee hpcrssbttee8a d etpeel-mFyenarFd7 dirw t Stlrr,a5A aalo eoetaeAtna dnhr dtdoncdscsldoeceer e t hitbo vé b xnaeaPhiibimy--nya c aePlCp1Pi en tstWuP rpoa9orhSnhduliéer1reo avegorsAiirn4sucoear sitpRbl grd,hti rusd La eeo bauGayibs enndW mdvu .eruasg g eeiWutHiasieaee l bdixirPi’nelnagtsg ei .Irs fa crote iurr oiario t-ls–nt .uao m s T oasi1nfah fn 8vd neCdo7 Hh 0wru, ittsbwote, ort TTafrnhhodeme btP uterhrisrente cvtgeiiapedrwad Sle aoFncfas rtçé hba-eeCd lodeoeowum.r eisd PDPGBfaonarieusurrdcmrrismsie sno,a diigaatrn hcn t istoken hts, riv etge haaaa aufdtntoten ieetumsghddmrre-a Fbymal rsc ynPa.oi tan tOnyhrci’tsetseh ti h aoP isnno rivue rs1os sgw8ense7os e 0o- re.f Ti.nh Pi sOa irvsi sot,h iadeft Dseero ctmohnee dE-ihffiegl hTeoswt epro.int P3741OC&5^qhcT13StoBChoa350p10rafarlp eoatar 0p .etum3R8;b eh n s1cBf7A7umfl70u9oauènee t8salFrabp iversin d p0n.-mrmSMc 9b-dm mci Mi0d cRoa)arcaOe r;,eo,.od cuoum ly roa71sd1Bs cnruet cpIlsa1ptnéC1aaant––eh rrtm–.C-iat isith16 fsrFl6ceCam.Aiymeol 5pelr,ti c@(nio. icF pet car1vm thaD,dh(he1m odamar1p6ro:ue .yo :l . . td dpri Tt1u3T,a,Onre=orm huoa)Rm56e0aetr ,cpeit -emuia.,rle.lA3 eaod yc, t3em. 0 es 0,ks.1n∑oaee n 1tn1 LsCep0Cevn.,m,-i a lro 1pe5m5p6ud amy 0rn43smas-s ps,cBp a, t maa , ti r8 aclmnr:Sy c0–rareuprke, te .nt8- - :.5 . The façade of each major sight is shown to help you spot it quickly. 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Historic buildings are dissected features of the sight listed in a key. to reveal their interiors; and museums and galleries have colour-coded floorplans to help you find important exhibits. 006-007_EW_Paris.indd 7 03/04/17 10:48 am 008-009_EW_Paris.indd 8 25/04/16 5:23 pm Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED: Section openers template “UK” LAYER (SourceReport v1) Date 6th September 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm