The Project Gutenberg EBook of Outdoor Life and Indian Stories, by Edward Sylvester Ellis This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: Outdoor Life and Indian Stories Author: Edward Sylvester Ellis Release Date: March 3, 2019 [EBook #59002] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUTDOOR LIFE AND INDIAN STORIES *** Produced by Greg Weeks, Jana Palkova and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net "FROM WHERE THE SUN NOW STANDS, I FIGHT NO MORE AGAINST THE WHITE MAN." OUTDOOR LIFE and INDIAN STORIES MAKING OPEN AIR LIFE ATTRACTIVE TO YOUNG AMERICANS BY TELLING THEM ALL ABOUT WOODCRAFT, SIGNS AND SIGNALING, THE STARS, FISHING, CAMPING, CAMP COOKING, HOW TO TIE KNOTS AND HOW TO MAKE FIRE WITHOUT MATCHES, AND MANY OTHER FASCINATING OPEN AIR PURSUITS ——ALSO—— STORIES OF NOTED HUNTERS AND SCOUTS GREAT INDIANS AND WARRIORS, INCLUDING DANIEL BOONE, KIT CARSON, GENERAL CUSTER, PONTIAC, TECUMSEH, KING PHILIP, BLACK HAWK, BRANDT, SITTING BULL, AND A HOST OF OTHERS WHOSE NAMES ARE FAMOUS ALL OF THEM TRUE AND INTERESTING BY EDWARD S. ELLIS Author of the Celebrated "Ellis Books" of Adventure, "The Deerfoot Series," "Youth's History of the United States," Etc., Etc. PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH LITHOGRAPH COLOR PLATES, HALF-TONE ENGRAVINGS AND LINE DRAWINGS Copyright 1912 By L. T. MYERS CONTENTS Outdoor Life for Young Americans 9 How to Live in the Woods Making a Camp 10 How to Build a Lean-To How to Make Fire Without Matches 11 Using the Fire-Drill How to Get Pure Water 13 The Indian Filter How to Cook in Camp 15 Utensils and Simple Recipes How to Make a Bow and Arrow 17 A Safe and Powerful Weapon How to Read Signs and Signals 19 Indian Signs and the Wig-Wag System How to Tie Knots 22 All the Best Knots Explained and Illustrated How to Find Your Way by the Stars 26 The Heavens at Night What to Do in Case of Accident 27 First Aid to the Injured The Original Americans 33 The Indian Tribes The Original Emperors of Virginia 40 Powhatan and Opecancanough The Great Conspiracy 54 A Wily Chieftain and His Secret Adventures in New England 61 The Indians and the Pilgrims The Uncrowning of a King 76 Philip's Adventures and Death A Man of Mark Among the Delawares 98 Story of Tammany, White Eyes, and Captain Pipe The Greatest of Indian Conspirators 106 Pontiac, Chief of the Ottawas A Besieged Garrison 121 The Attack on Detroit A Good Indian 129 Little Carpenter, the Cherokee A Mighty Mingo Chieftain 135 Logan, the Orator and Warrior An Indian Demosthenes 144 Red Jacket, the Seneca Little Turtle 149 First an Enemy, then a Friend Warrior and Knight 159 Buckongahelas, the Delaware Chief A Famous Mohawk Chief 169 Adventure of Brandt, the Half-Breed A Chieftain on the Warpath 176 Adventures of Tecumseh, the Shawanoe Adventures of Weatherford 192 Chief of the Creek Confederacy Fighting Against Fate 202 Black Hawk and His War The Hero of the Everglades 219 Osceola and the Seminole War Sitting Bull, the Medicine Man 233 The Last Great Indian Uprising OUTDOOR LIFE FOR YOUNG AMERICANS What boy can resist the call of the woods, the desire to know the forest and its furred and feathered inhabitants, the fish, the insects, the plants? But to gather this knowledge in safety the boy must first learn the ways of the woods, the life of the camper, how to cook and find his way by the stars, how to tie knots and what to do in case of accident, the language of signs and the secrets of the trail. There is no better way to do this than to study the methods of the Indians, the most expert woodsmen the world has known. At their call the forest produced food, drink, clothes, ornaments and all the necessities of life. Let us see how they managed this. THE CAMP [9] Making a Camp METHOD OF THATCHING A LEAN-TO The first thing to be considered on going into the forest is the camp where the night is to be spent. In choosing a place for this see that there is fresh water, wood for the fire and brush-wood for building a "lean-to," or hut, at hand. It is well to build on a dry, level place, with just enough slope to the ground to insure the water running away in case of rain. The Indians used to live in huts thatched with brush-wood, and these are best made by building what is known as a "lean- to." Look for two trees standing from eight to ten feet apart on your camping place, with branches from six to eight feet above the ground. By placing a pole from one tree to the other in the crotches and leaning other poles against this one, brush-wood can be woven in to form a very good roof. Branches of the balsam or hemlock are best for this purpose, and the needles should point down. It is well to collect as many soft, thick tips of trees of this character as possible, both for the thatching and to make the beds. Cover the floor of the "lean-to" with these tips thickly and lay the rubber blankets on top, rubber side down. Be sure to make the head of your bed toward the inside and away from the opening. You will find that this makes a very comfortable bed. HOW TO BUILD A LEAN-TO [10] [11] HOW TO BUILD A FIRE How to Make Fire Without Matches In olden times, before the Indians had matches, and even before they had the flint and steel that our grandfathers used for making fire, they used rubbing-sticks. Many people have tried to make fire in this manner, but few have succeeded. As a matter of fact, it is not a very difficult thing to do if you know how, as the Indians did. In fact, they grew so expert that they could make fire almost as quickly as we can strike a match. The easiest and surest method of doing this is to use the bow-drill. The tools necessary consist of a bow, or bent stick, about two feet long, with a stout leather cord attached to each end. The drill consists of a straight piece of wood pointed at each end. One end of this rests in a drill- socket, which is simply a piece of wood with a small notch in it for the top of the fire-drill. This piece of wood is held in the hand, while the other end of the fire-drill is placed in the fire-board. This consists of a thin piece of wood with small pits cut about half an inch from the edge, and with a notch extending from the edge into the middle of the pit. The leather thong is given a single turn about the fire-drill and then by drawing the bow backward and forward the drill is caused to rotate very rapidly in the fire-board. After a short while the dust which comes out of the notch grows hot and becomes a glowing coal, which can be easily ignited into a blazing fire. THE FIRE-DRILL There are many ways of building a camp fire, but the Indian's way is the best. The Indians always used to laugh at the white men because they said that they built such a big fire they could not get near it, while the Indian built a little fire and could get close to it. The fire must be built systematically. First, get dry, small dead branches, twigs, fir branches and other inflammable material and place these loosely on the ground, being sure that the air can draw under and upward through the mass. Next place some heavier sticks in the form of a pyramid with the tops of the sticks close together, and so on, until you have built the camp fire to the required size. Take every care to prevent the spreading of the fire, and do not build it too close to the tent or to inflammable pine trees. There is always danger of starting a disastrous forest fire by carelessness with a small camp fire. Remember that it is criminal to leave a burning fire, and always to put the fire out with water or earth. If the fire is to be used for cooking, it is well to confine the heat between two large logs, or, if baking is to be done on it, it is best to build an oven with large stones. But the Indians were usually content with open fire. [12] [13] How to Get Pure Water A very necessary item for the camp is pure water. If this cannot be obtained from a nearby spring which has good, clear water, or from a clean stream, it is possible to filter it in the same way that the Indians did. They had a way of purifying water from a pond or swamp by digging a hole about one foot across and down about six inches below the water level, a few feet from the pond. After it was filled with water they baled it out quickly, repeating the baling process about three times. After the third baling the hole would fill with filtered water. A STONE OVEN If there is a stream at hand large enough to swim in, it is well to remember that if you work your hands and kick your feet you can stay above water for some time, even with your clothes on. Do not make the mistake of going into the water too soon after eating, for cramps are apt to result, causing a serious accident. The Indians have a method of protecting themselves from cramps. Coming to a bathing pool, the Indian swimmer, before entering the water, vigorously rubs the pit of his stomach with the dry palm of his hand. This rubbing probably takes a minute; then he dashes cold water all over his stomach, and continues the rubbing for another minute; and after that he is ready for his plunge. [14] [15] How to Cook in Camp The problems of the camp cook are not nearly so great as they seem at first glance. The essential thing is to select your cooking equipment and supplies wisely and learn a few simple recipes in advance. An excellent cooking kit for a long outing is composed of the following utensils: One 12-inch frying pan, one coffee pot, one 6-quart pail, one can opener, six air-tight canisters for coffee, tea, sugar, salt, etc., a knife, fork, teaspoon, tablespoon, plate, bowl and cup for each person in the party. All of these may be nested in a 12-quart pail, which will be found useful in many ways about the camp. If only a short hike is to be taken, however, a much smaller kit may be taken. An ideal kit for this purpose is used by the United States Army and may be obtained from outfitters or army stores anywhere. This consists of a frying pan and plate which can be locked together by the handle of the frying pan to form a baker. In this a knife, fork and spoon can be carried. With the addition of a canteen and large tin cup, this kit can be made to perform wonders in the cooking line on a trip of several days' duration. For a longer trip the larger kit is recommended. The supplies to be taken along depend upon the tastes of the campers, the length of the trip and the convenience of transportation. Of course, if the trip is to be made by water it is easier to manage a greater weight than would be the case if it must be carried, a point to be kept in mind in selecting the supplies. For a trip of about one week the following supplies are advised in quantities to suit the number of people in the party: Coffee, tea, sugar, salt, pepper, condensed milk (unsweetened), lard, bacon, flour, baking soda, bread and potatoes. This list can be enlarged to advantage by the addition of a ham, butter (if it can be kept cool), pickles, jam and additional vegetables, but it is well to keep the outfit down to the lowest point consistent with comfort. Eggs should be taken if it is possible to carry them safely. They are now sold in packages which will stand moderately rough handling. Remember that a bed of hot coals is best for cooking, and use dry wood if possible to avoid the smoke. The following recipes will be found easy and practical. Others may be added as the cook grows more expert. COFFEE Use 1 tablespoonful of ground coffee for each cup to be made. For five people put 5 tablespoonfuls in pot, add ½ cup cold water and mix with the coffee. Add 4 cups of boiling water and bring to a boil, letting it boil one minute, then add ½ cup of cold water and set near fire where it will keep hot but not boil. TEA Use 2 teaspoonfuls of tea to 4 cups of boiling water. Put tea in pot and pour boiling water over it. Never boil tea, but stand in a warm place for five minutes to draw before serving. BACON Very useful on account of its fat which can be used to fry fish, potatoes, etc. Slice the bacon thin and put in frying pan. Fry over hot fire until crisp, turning the slices over with a fork from time to time. POTATOES (BOILED) Fill pail with water, wash and peel potatoes, boil until tender, take out of water and keep warm until served. POTATOES (FRIED) Put 1 teaspoonful of lard in hot frying pan or use fat left over from frying bacon. Peel and slice potatoes. Fry over hot fire. FRIED FISH Split the fish down the belly, clean, scale and cut off head and tail. Spread open and fry with lard or bacon fat in hot frying pan. All of the above can be cooked easily and quickly in camp. It is recommended that bread be taken along, but if it is desired to cook this and other more complicated dishes, one of the many handy cook books on the market should be carried. [16] [17] HOW TO SHOOT A BOW AND ARROW How to Make a Bow and Arrow HOW TO MAKE A BOW AND ARROW In early days the Indian did not have the modern hunting rifle, and was compelled to use bow and arrow in the chase. It is well for the modern boy to understand this weapon, for it can be made with ease and much good fun can be had with it. The Indian bow was short, because, though less efficient, it was easier to carry than a long one, yet it did not lack power. We hear that many times Indians shot so hard that their arrows appeared on the far side of the animal, but the long bow, such as was used by the old English archers or bowmen, was much the more powerful. To make the bow take a perfectly sound, straight, well-seasoned stick of about your own height and mark off a space as wide as your hand in the middle for a handle. This space should be left round and about an inch thick. The balance of the stick should be shaved down flat on one side for the front and rounded on the other for the back until it is about one inch wide and three-fourths of an inch thick near the handle, tapering to about half that at the ends, which are then notched for the cord. Next put on the cord and bend it until it is about five inches from the bow at the center. If one end bends more than the other shave the other end until it becomes even. After it is trimmed down to your strength finish it with sand-paper. The best woods to use are apple, black walnut, slippery elm, mountain ash or hickory. More difficult to make than the bow is the arrow. The Indians made arrows of reeds and of straight shoots of arrow-wood or of elder, but we make better arrows out of hickory or ash. The arrow should be twenty-five inches long, round, and three-eighths of an inch thick. It should be notched at one end to take the bow-string, and just below this notch it should have three feathers set around at equal intervals. These feathers are best made from either turkey or goose wings. With a sharp knife cut a strip of the midrib on which is the vein of the feather; make three pieces, each two to three inches long. The Indians used to leave the midrib projecting at each end, and by these lash the feathers to the arrow without gluing, but it is easier to glue them and the arrows fly better. Indian arrow-heads were made of sharp flints or pieces of stone lashed to the arrow-heads, but the best way to make them now is like the ferrule of an umbrella, as this keeps the shaft from splitting. After this the arrow should be painted, both to keep it from warping and to make it easier to find in the forest by its bright color. After the bow and arrows are made one must learn to shoot with them. It is well to begin with the target close at hand, and gradually increase the distance as the archer becomes more expert. The Indians generally used their bows at short range so that it was easy to hit the mark, and considered rapid firing more important. In their competitions the prize was given to him who should have the most arrows in the air at once, and it has been said that their record was eight. [18] [19] How to Read Signs and Signals The Indians are very expert at using signs to give messages to one another. These signs are made in many ways and vary with the different tribes. Some of those best known are: Shaking a blanket, which means "I want to talk to you." Holding up a knife or other weapon means "war" or "I am ready to fight." Holding up a tree branch, "I want to make peace." Holding up a pole horizontally with both hands on it, "I have found something." Blazes or marks on trees are widely used to communicate messages. A simple blaze or small section of bark cut from a tree is often used to indicate a path through the forest, and if you are going through dense woods and must come back the same way or others are to follow you it is well to use this method of marking the way. Other well-known Indian signs are the water signs. A circle cut in the bark with an arrow-head pointing directly down and three waved lines within the circle means "Good water here." A similar circle with the arrow-head pointing to one side but below the center means "Good water not far in this direction." If the arrow-head is above the center it means "Good water a long way off in this direction." An arrow alone indicates "Go in this direction." An arrow with a rectangular mark on the end means "A letter is concealed three steps in this direction." A cross means "Do not use this path." A circle with a small circle inside, "I have gone home." In addition to the permanent signs the Indians are very expert at "making smoke talk." A fire is built from damp wood which will give off a thick smoke. By holding a blanket over the fire the smoke is caused to rise in short and long puffs which can be made to spell out a message. At night the light of the fire can be made to serve the same purpose. As it is not always convenient to build a fire and the "smoke talk" is not easy to handle it is much better to use a flag and the wig-wag system. First of all it is necessary to memorize the signal code which is given below. The numbers are made by the signal man standing in one position with three motions. Let the signal man stand facing the signal station with which it is desired to communicate with the flag-staff carrying a small square flag held vertically in his hands. A white flag about two and a half feet square with a red square in the center is a good design, but the size depends somewhat on the distance between stations. At night a lantern on a pole or a torch can be used on the same system. To make the first motion ("one" or "1") move the flag as you stand facing the other station to the right and down to the level of your waist, returning it immediately to the vertical position. The second motion ("two" or "2") is the same to the left of the sender. The third motion ("three" or "3") is downward directly in front of the sender and immediately back to the vertical position. Remember that numbers which occur in a message must be spelled to avoid confusion. In sending a message make a slight pause between each letter and if a mistake is made signal 3 followed by 12, 12, 3, and then begin the incorrect word again. THE WIG-WAG CODE ALPHABET A 22 J 1122 S 212 B 2112 K 2121 T 2 C 121 L 221 U 112 D 222 M 1221 V 1222 E 12 N 11 W 1121 F 2221 O 21 X 2122 G 2211 P 1212 Y 111 H 122 Q 1211 Z 2222 I 1 R 211 tion 1112 NUMERALS 1 1111 6 2211 2 2222 7 1222 3 1112 8 2111 4 2221 9 1221 5 1122 0 2112 CONVENTIONAL SIGNALS End of word 3 Repeat after (word), End of sentence 33 121, 121, 3, [20] [21] End of message 333 22, 3 (word) XX3 beginning or end of Repeat last word, numerals. 121, 121, 33 I understand 22, 22, 3 Repeat last message, Cease signalling, 121, 121, 121, 333 22, 22, 22, 333 Move to right 211, 211, 3 Signal faster 2212, 3 Move to left 221, 221, 3 ABBREVIATIONS a after n not ur your b before r are w word c can t the wi with h have u you y yes [22] How to Tie Knots Every boy is familiar with rope and its uses, but not every one is able to handle it to the best advantage. In camping and fishing, and particularly in any sport that has to do with the water, a knowledge of how to tie knots is of the greatest value and interest. Often one's very life depends on a knot holding. A good knot has three qualities, it must be easy and quick to tie, it must hold fast when pulled tight and must be easy to untie. There are a number of knots which meet these requirements but are adapted to different uses. To learn the various knots which follow take a section of flexible rope about four feet long and three-eighths of an inch in diameter. To keep the ends from fraying it is necessary to "whip" or bind them with twine. To do this make a loop in the twine and lay on the rope end so that the closed end of the loop projects just over the end of the rope. Begin wrapping with the long end of the twine at a point about an inch from the end of the rope, over the loop and toward the end. When you reach the end of the rope pass the free end of the twine through the loop and pull the other end of the twine. This will pull the free end under the wrapping and secure it. Cut off both ends close to the wrapping. To understand the directions remember that: 1. The Standing-part is the long unused portion of the rope upon which the work is done. 2. The Bight is the loop formed whenever the rope is turned back upon itself; and 3. The End is the part used in tying the knots. The two primary knots are the "overhand" and the "figure-of-eight," which must be learned first of all as a basis. THE OVERHAND KNOT Beginning with the position shown in the preceding diagram back the end around the standing-part and up through the bight, drawing it tight. THE FIGURE-OF-EIGHT KNOT Make a bight as before. Then lead the end around back of the standing-part and down through the bight. The following knots are chiefly based upon these and can be easily learned by careful study of the diagrams. With practice considerable speed can be obtained, but it is best to "make haste slowly." THE SQUARE OR REEF KNOT This is the commonest knot for tying two ropes together. It will not slip or jam if properly tied and is easy to untie. THE FALSE REEF KNOT OR GRANNY. If the ends are not properly crossed in making the reef knot the granny results, a bad and insecure knot. THE SHEET BEND OR WEAVER'S KNOT A knot much used by sailors in bending (tying) the sheet to the clew of the sail and in tying two rope ends together. Make a bight with one rope A, B, then pass the end C, of other rope up through and around the entire bight and bend it under its own standing-part. THE BOWLINE One of the most useful of all knots. It forms a loop that will neither jam nor slip and is the only knot which will not cut itself under heavy tension. It is much used on shipboard and in rigging when a loop is desired. To tie the knot, form a small loop on the standing-part leaving the end long enough for the size of the loop required. Pass the end up through the bight around the standing-part and down through the bight again. To tighten hold the loop in position and pull the standing-part. It is important that the knot should be held firmly in one position while tying for it is apt to slip before it is tightened. To join two sections together by this knot, tie a bowline in one end, then with the other end form the small loop, then pass the end through the loop of the first bowline and complete the knot. This method should always be used in joining kite cord to prevent cutting. THE HALTER, SLIP OR RUNNING KNOT First form a bight and then tie an overhand knot around the standing-part. An improvement in this knot for a halter knot is made by forming the overhand knot with a loop in the end which is pulled through. By pulling the end the knot is readily released. THE SHEEPSHANK This knot is used to shorten a rope. Take up the amount of rope to be shortened and make a half hitch around each bend as shown. If the knot is to be permanent the ends above each half hitch should be lashed. THE CLOVE HITCH A useful knot for quick tying and easy release. It is used in making fast the bow line of a boat in coming into a wharf, in lashing poles together, etc. Hold the standing-part in the left hand and pass the rope around the pole or stake; cross the standing-part, making a second turn around the pole, and pass the end under the last turn. In making a boat fast, form a bight with the end beneath, throw this over the top of the pile or mooring stake. Form another bight with the end on top, turn this over and throw over pile, pulling end together. This is a very secure knot which can be tied with the greatest rapidity. [23] [24] THE FISHERMAN'S BEND A useful knot for use on board a yacht. Take two turns around a spar or ring, then a half hitch around the standing- part and through the turns on the rings and another half hitch above it around the standing-part. THE TIMBER HITCH Much used in logging operations in hauling logs. Pass the end of the rope around the timber. Then lead it around its standing-part and bring it back to make several turns on its own part. The strain will make it hold securely. THE DOUBLE HALF HITCH A knot which is easy to tie and will not slip. A neat job may be had by lashing the end to the standing-part after the knot is drawn tight. THE BECKET HITCH Useful in fishing to bend a cord or line to a heavier cord or rope. The method is shown. THE FISHERMAN'S KNOT Used chiefly in tying gut. It is easy to tie and can be readily untied by pulling the two short ends. The ropes are laid alongside each other and with each end an overhand knot is made around the standing-part of the other. Pull the standing-parts to tighten. CARRICK BEND A knot which is used principally in joining hawsers for towing or heavy duty hoisting. Turn the end of one rope A over its standing-part B to form a loop. Pass the end of the other rope across the bight thus formed back of the standing-part B, over the end A, then under the bight at C, passing it over its own standing-part and under the bight again at D. BLACKWALL HITCH Used to secure a rope to a hook. The standing part when hauled tight holds the end firmly. [25] [26]