SARAH FROM ONE EASY DOUGH TO TEN CLASSIC LOAVES TO INFINITE POSSIBILITIES BLACK ONE DOUGH If you’ve ever wanted to make homemade bread but don’t know where to begin, One Dough, Ten Breads is + the answer: With just a few ingredients, your own two hands, and this book, you’re well on your way to making delicious and beautiful breads. Baking instructor Sarah Black starts with the simplest “plain white” dough, then O makes small changes to ingredients, proportions, and shapes to take you through ten foundation breads, from baguettes to ciabatta to whole wheat to sourdough. From there, the sky’s the limit: additional recipes include N `` + `` dinner rolls, crackers, focaccia and pizza, sandwich loaves, rustic country-style breads, and more. E TEN BREADS D O U MAKING GREAT BREAD BY HAND G H “In this brilliant book, Sarah Black “This instructive and entertaining “I discovered what a superb baker T proves that she is not only a master book sets up the home bread baker Sarah was more than twenty years of her craft, but also a consummate for success. Sarah has let the baker’s ago—her ciabatta changed New York E teacher, creating recipes that are best secret out of the bag—one dough City’s breadscape forever—and now, straightforward, delicious, and never can yield an immense diversity of with One Dough, Ten Breads, we all N dumbed down. Most impressive of breads—and here she teaches you to discover that Sarah is a beautiful all, she manages to make baking feel make a dazzling array.” writer and a world-class teacher. I’d both approachable and infinitely —JESSAMYN WALDMAN RODRIGUEZ, missed Sarah’s breads for too long; B adaptable.” —DAN BARBER, author of The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook now I’m making them at home and chef and co-owner, Blue Hill, you will, too.” —DORIE GREENSPAN, R and author of The Third Plate author of Baking Chez Moi E HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT SARAH BLACK is a baking instructor www.hmhco.com A with twenty-five years of professional baking Cover and author photographs by Lauren Volo experience. As a founding baker of Tom Cat Cover design by Vertigo Design NYC D Bakery, she was at the forefront of New York City’s artisan bread renaissance. She now lives © Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company S in Columbus, Ohio, where she oversees the bread baking program at Flowers and Bread, a $25.00 / higher in canada recreational baking school, floral studio, and ISBN 978-0-470-26095-1 SARAH BLACK café, and also teaches classes at The Seasoned Farmhouse. Sarah loves making bread. PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN VOLO baking/breads 0216 / 1557125 ONE DOUGH ` + ` TEN BREADS 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 1 9/22/15 11:44 AM 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 2 9/22/15 11:44 AM ONE DOUGH ` + ` TEN BREADS MAKING GREAT BREAD BY HAND SARAH BLACK PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN VOLO HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT BOSTON | NEW YORK | 2016 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 3 9/22/15 11:44 AM Copyright © 2016 by Sarah Black Photography © 2016 by Lauren Volo Food styling by Molly Shuster All rights reserved. For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to [email protected] or to Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 3 Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, New York 10016. www.hmhco.com Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Black, Sarah One dough, ten breads : making great bread by hand / Sarah Black ; photography by Lauren Volo. pages cm ISBN 978-0-470-26095-1 (hardcover); 978-0-544-57933-0 (ebook) 1. Bread I. Volo, Lauren. II. Title. TX769.b57 2016 641.81'5—dc23 2015004574 Design by Vertigo Design NYC Printed in China C&C 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 4 9/22/15 11:44 AM To the memory of my father, William Jasper Black, who flew the highest kites of all, and showed me how to reach for the moon S And to my mother, Ann LaMarche Black, who showed me how to make the moon brighter once I reached it 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 5 9/22/15 11:44 AM 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 6 9/22/15 11:44 AM CONTENTS `` + `` Foreword ix First x Thanks xii PART 1: BUILDING A FOUNDATION Getting Your Hands in the Dough 2 Tools 10 Ingredients 16 Bread Defi ned by Words 24 FOUNDATION BREAD 1. Simple White Loaves 3 PART 2: BUILDING DOUGH STRUCTURE Turning Your Dough into Baguettes 33 Adding Water to Make Focaccia 42 Adding More Water to Make Ciabatta 49 These Three Doughs Make Classic Shapes 55 FOUNDATION BREADS 2. Baguettes 35 3. Focaccia 44 4. Ciabatta 50 PART 3: BUILDING FLAVOR AND TEXTURE Infusing Breads with Preferments 64 Teasing Out the Flavors of Diff erent Grains 86 Building Breads with a Sourdough Culture 104 FOUNDATION BREADS 5. French Whole Wheat Pain de Campagne 87 6. German Rye with a Seed and Grain Soaker 93 7. Italian Semolina Bread with Sweet Butter 99 8. White Sourdough Boules 110 9. Whole Wheat Sourdough Batards 115 10. Rye Sourdough Pan Loaf 119 PART 4: BUILDING ON WHAT YOU’VE LEARNED Assembling Recipes with Distinctive Ingredients and Shapes 126 Last 202 Index 204 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 7 9/29/15 10:35 AM 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 8 9/22/15 11:44 AM FOREWORD `` + `` Sarah Black is a wonderful bread baker, woman, teacher, and friend. We met more than twenty years ago when both of us were blossoming as bread bakers. We enjoyed sharing ideas and information about baking. We appreciated each other and encouraged one another as women bakers in a largely male-dominated profession. At that time she was per- fecting her craft and developing a reputation for her ciabatta and her business, which she had named Companio. Related to the word companion, it means “with bread” or “with whom one eats bread.” This perfectly captures Sarah’s ongoing mission of sharing bread and sharing the knowledge about making bread with others. I have always admired how Sarah works with her hands. She has a gracefulness and preci- sion as she handles the dough. She knows just the right amount of pressure to apply to pat out the dough and to preserve the air bubbles trapped within. She has the perfect touch to make beautiful bread. Her book captures the essence of her philosophy: Use your hands, and your knowledge, to start with something simple and build it into something more complex as you develop confidence and skill. Why do you need this book among all the others? Because it comes from the heart and gets to the heart of what bread baking is all about. Sarah has made the process of making bread ac- cessible, fun, and enjoyable. She has so much knowledge to share, and she has made it available to her readers in this wonderful book. After knowing Sarah as a colleague for so many years, we recently had the pleasure of col- laborating on our bread baking school at Amy’s Bread. Sarah created a roster of classes, many of which she taught. With her meticulous organization, her precision and grace, and her warm and friendly approach, the students loved her “breaducation.” In addition, Sarah and I taught several classes together, and I have been so inspired by the process. It has been a great highlight to work with Sarah and to play with the dough together as true bread baking companions. Amy Scherber founder, baker Amy’s Bread New York City FOREWORD ix 00_FrontMatter_OneDough.indd 9 9/22/15 11:44 AM