Project Gutenberg's Old and New Paris, v. 2, by Henry Sutherland Edwards This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Old and New Paris, v. 2 Its History, its People, and its Places Author: Henry Sutherland Edwards Release Date: May 5, 2013 [EBook #42647] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OLD AND NEW PARIS, V. 2 *** Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images available at The Internet Archive) Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed. Some typographical errors have been corrected. (see list following the text.) No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the printed accentuation of names or words in French. (etext transcriber’s note) CONTENTS ILLUSTRATIONS INDEX ON THE CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES. OLD AND NEW PARIS Its History, its People, and its Places BY H. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS AUTHOR OF “IDOLS OF THE FRENCH STAGE” “THE GERMANS IN FRANCE” “THE RUSSIANS AT HOME” ETC. ETC. VOL. II WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS C A S S E L L AND C O M P A N Y LIMITED LONDON PARIS & MELBOURNE 1894 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. STREET CHARACTERS. PAGE The “Cocher”—The Bus-driver—The Private Coachman—The Hackney Coachman—The Public Writer—The Flower-girl—The Oyster-woman 1 CHAPTER II. THE ENGLISH AND AMERICANS IN PARIS. The Englishman Abroad—M. Lemoinne’s Analysis—The Englishwoman—Sunday in London and in Paris— Americans in Paris—The American Girl 9 CHAPTER III. MORE PARISIAN TYPES. The Spy—Under Sartines and Berryer—Fouché—Delavau—The Present System—The Écuyère—The Circus in Paris 17 CHAPTER IV. THE DOMESTIC. The French Servant, as described by Léon Gozlan and by Mercier—The Cook and the Cordon Bleu—The Valet 20 CHAPTER V. PARISIAN CHARACTERISTICS. Parisian Characteristics—Gaiety, Flippancy Wit—A String of Favourite Anecdotes 24 CHAPTER VI. THE STREETS. The Arrangement of the Streets—System of Numbering the Houses—Street Nomenclature—Street Lamps—The Various Kinds of Vehicles in Use 28 CHAPTER VII. THE SEINE AND ITS BRIDGES.—THE MORGUE. The Various Bridges over the Seine—Their Histories—The Morgue—Some Statistics 33 CHAPTER VIII. THE REFORMATION IN PARIS. D’Étaples, the Pioneer of the Reformation—Nicolas Cop and Calvin—Progress of the Reformation— Persecutions—Catharine de Médicis—St. Bartholomew’s—The Edict of Nantes 36 CHAPTER IX. THE UNIVERSITY OF PARIS AND THE COLLEGE OF FRANCE. The French Educational System—Lycées and Collèges—The University of Paris—The College of France 44 CHAPTER X. THE SORBONNE. Robert de Sorbonne—The Sorbonne, its Origin and History—Richelieu—The Revolution—The New Sorbonne —Mercier’s Views 49 CHAPTER XI. THE INSTITUTE. The Institute—Its Unique Character—The Objects of its Projectors—Its Constitution 53 CHAPTER XII. THE ACADÉMIE FRANÇAISE. The Académie Française—Its Foundation by Richelieu—Its Constitution—The “Forty-first Chair” 55 CHAPTER XIII. THE PANTHÉON. The Church of Clovis—The Church of Sainte-Geneviève—France in the Thirteenth Century—The Building of the New Church under Louis XV.—Mirabeau and the Constituent Assembly—The Church of Sainte-Geneviève becomes the Panthéon. 59 CHAPTER XIV. THE POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. The “Central School of Public Works”—Bonaparte and the Polytechnic—The College of Navarre—Formal Inauguration in 1805—1816—1830 67 CHAPTER XV. THE HÔTEL CLUNY. The Rue des Carmes—Comte de Mun and the Catholic Workmen’s Club—The Place Maubert—The Palais des Thermes—The Hôtel Cluny—Its History—Its Art Treasures 71 CHAPTER XVI. THE MUSÉE D’ARTILLERIE. The Museum of Artillery—Its Origin and History—The Growth of its Collection of Armour and Weapons of all Kinds 83 CHAPTER XVII. THE VAL DE GRÂCE—RELICS OF THE GREAT. The Deaf and Dumb Institution—The Val de Grâce—Hearts as Relics—Royal Funerals—The Church of Saint- Denis 89 CHAPTER XVIII. THE CATACOMBS: THE OBSERVATORY. Origin of the Catacombs—The Quarries of Mont Souris—The Observatory—Marshal Ney—The School of Medicine 99 CHAPTER XIX. THE ODÉON: THE LUXEMBURG PALACE. The Odéon—Its History—Erection of the Present Building in 1799—Marie de Médicis and the Luxemburg Palace—The Judicial Annals of the Luxemburg—Trials of Fieschi and Louvel—Trial of Louis Napoleon—Trial of the Duc de Praslin 109 CHAPTER XX. THE PRISONS OF PARIS. La Santé—La Roquette—The Conciergerie—The Mazas—Sainte-Pélagie—Saint-Lazare—Prison Regulations 131 CHAPTER XXI. THE PARIS ZOO. The Jardin des Plantes—Its Origin and History—Under Buffon—The Museum of Natural History—The Tobacco Factory 147 CHAPTER XXII. SOME HISTORICAL BUILDINGS. Abailard and Héloise—Fulbert’s House in the Rue des Chantres—The Philip Augustus Towers—The Hôtel Barbette—The Hôtel de Sens 156 CHAPTER XXIII. THE MONT-DE-PIÉTÉ. “Uncle” and “Aunt”—Organisation of the Mont-de-Piété—Its Various Branches—Its Warehouses and Sale- rooms 160 CHAPTER XXIV. PARIS MARKETS. The Halles-Centrales—The Cattle Markets—Agriculture in France—The French Peasant 166 CHAPTER XXV. SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS. Its Origin and History—Its Library—Its Organ—Saint-Sulpice 170 CHAPTER XXVI. PRINTING IN PARIS—THE CENSORSHIP. Rue Visconti—Historical Buildings—The National School of Roads and Bridges—The Introduction of Printing into Paris—The First Printing Establishments—The Censorship 174 CHAPTER XXVII. THE HÔTEL DES INVALIDES. A Glance at its History—Louis XIV. and Mme. de Maintenon—The Pensioners—Their Characteristics and Mode of Life 185 CHAPTER XXVIII. SOME MORE PARIS HOSPITALS. The French Hospital System—The Laënnec Hospital—The Houses of Assistance—The Quinze-Vingts—Deaf and Dumb Institutions—The Abbé de l’Épée—La Charité 193 CHAPTER XXIX. LUNATIC ASYLUMS AND MIXED INSTITUTIONS. The Treatment of Lunacy in the Past—La Salpêtrière—Bicêtre—The Story of Latude—The Four Sergeants of La Rochelle—Pinel’s Reforms—Charenton 207 CHAPTER XXX. THE RIVER BIÈVRE AND THE MANUFACTORY OF THE GOBELINS. The Brothers Gobelin—Lebrun—The Gobelins under Louis XIV.—At the Time of the Revolution—The Manufactory of Sèvres 225 CHAPTER XXXI. THE PALAIS BOURBON. The Palais Bourbon—Its History—The National Convention—Philippe Égalité 231 CHAPTER XXXII. SOME HISTORICAL RESIDENCES. The Palace of the Legion of Honour—The Ministry of War—The Rue de Grenelle—Talleyrand 236 CHAPTER XXXIII. THE RUE TARANNE AND DIDEROT. Diderot’s Early Life in Paris—His Love Affairs—Imprisonment in the Château de Vincennes—Diderot and Catherine II. of Russia—His Death 242 CHAPTER XXXIV. MONSEIGNEUR AFFRE AND THE INSURRECTION OF JUNE. The Courtyard of the Dragon—The National Workshops—The Insurrection of June—Monseigneur Affre Shot at the Barricade of the Faubourg St. Antoine 247 CHAPTER XXXV. SOME OCCUPANTS OF MONTPARNASSE. The Boulevard Montparnasse—The Cemetery—Father Loriquet—Hégésippe Moreau—Sainte-Beuve 250 CHAPTER XXXVI. SPORTS AND DIVERSIONS. Le “Sport”—Longchamps—Versailles Races—Fontainebleau—The Seine—Swimming Baths—The Art of Book-collecting 254 CHAPTER XXXVII. FENCING SCHOOLS. Fencing in France—A National Art—Some Extracts from the Writings of M. Legouvé, One of its Chief Exponents—The Old Style of Fencing and the New 257 CHAPTER XXXVIII. PETTY TRADES. Petty Trades—Their Origins—The Day-Banker—The Guardian Angel—The Old-Clothesman—The Claque—Its First Beginning and Development 259 CHAPTER XXXIX. OBSOLETE PARIS SHOPS. The Old Wooden Stalls of Forty Years Ago—The “Lucky Fork”—The Cobbler’ Shops—The Old Cafés 265 CHAPTER XL. THE PARIS PRESS. French Governments and the Press—The Press under Napoleon—Some Account of the Leading Paris Papers— The Figaro 268 CHAPTER XLI. FROM THE QUAI VOLTAIRE TO THE PANTHÉON. The Quai Voltaire—Its Changes of Name—Voltaire—His Life in Paris and Elsewhere—His Remains laid in the Panthéon—Mirabeau—Rousseau—Vincennes 273 CHAPTER XLII. THE PALAIS MAZARIN AND THE RUE MAZARINE. The Institute or Palais Mazarin—The Rue Mazarine—L’Illustre Théâtre—Molière—The Theatre Français—The Odéon—Heine—The Faubourg Saint-Germain—Historical Associations 288 CHAPTER XLIII. THE PARIS RIVER AND PARIS COMMERCE. The Society of the Water-Merchants of Paris—The Navigation of the Seine—The Paris Slaughter-Houses— Records of Famine in France—The Lot of the French Peasant in the Last Century—The Paris Food Supply 307 CHAPTER XLIV. THE BARRIERS—PARISIAN CRIME. The Approaches to Paris—The French Railway System—The St. Germain Railway—The Erection of the Barriers —Some of the most famous Barriers—Parisian Crime—Its Special Characteristics 317 CHAPTER XLV. PARISIAN MENDICANCY—THE PARIS POOR. Parisian Mendicancy in the Sixteenth Century—The General Hospital—Louis XV. and the Beggars—The Revolution—Mendicancy as a Regular Profession—The Organ-grinders and the Trade in Italian Children—The French Treatment of the Poor—Asylums, Almshouses, and Retreats—The Droit des Pauvres—The Cost of the Poor 324 CHAPTER XLVI. VERSAILLES. Derivation of the Name—Saint-Simon’s Description—Louis XIV.—The Grand Fête of July, 1668—Peter the Great and the Regent—Louis XV.—Marie Antoinette and the “Affair of the Necklace”—The Events of October, 1789 338 CHAPTER XLVII. VERSAILLES AND THE SIEGE OF PARIS. The Advance on Paris—Preparations for the Siege—General Trochu—The Francs-Tireurs—The Siege 348 CHAPTER XLVIII. VERSAILLES AND THE COMMUNE. The Communists or Communards—The “Internationale”—Bismarck and the National Guard—The Municipal Elections—The Insurrection—Thiers—Paris during the Commune—Concluding Remarks 355 INDEX: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. [xxxxIllustrations have been moved from within paragraphs for ease of reading. (note of e-text transcriber.)] PAGE On the Champs Élysées Frontispiece Outside a Railway Station in Paris 1 Waiting for a Fare 3 Omnibus Coachman 4 Private Coachman 4 Hackney Coachman 5 Hearse Coachman 5 An Invitation to a “Petit Verre” 6 Street Scene 8 In the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne at Night 9 In the Flower Market 13 After the Theatre 16 At the Salon 17 A Fair 21 A Café Chantant 24 Parisian Types—In the Barracks 25 Parisian Types—In Search of Cigar-ends 29 A Paris Omnibus 31 Street Scene 32 Eastern End of Île de la Cité facing 33 Austerlitz Bridge 35 On the Saint-Martin Canal 36 The Solferino Bridge, from the Quai d’Orsay 37 The National Bridge 40 The Right Arm of the Seine from Boulevard Henri IV 41 The College of France 44 The Lycée Voltaire 45 The Lycée Charlemagne 47 The Lycée Condorcet 48 The Court of the Sorbonne 49 Façade of the New Sorbonne 51 The Church of the Sorbonne 52 The Dome of the Panthéon, Spire of St. Étienne du Mont, and Tour de Clovis 57 The Panthéon, from the Luxemburg Gardens 60 Place du Panthéon 61 Well in the Courtyard, Cluny Museum facing 65 Interior of the Panthéon 65 Library of Sainte-Geneviève 68 St. Stephen-of-the-Mount 69 Interior of Church of St. Stephen-of-the-Mount 70 The Chapel of the Ancient College of the Lombards 72 Place Maubert, with the Statue of Étienne Dolet 73 Patrons of the Chateau Rouge 75 Rue de Bièvre 75 Ruins of the Palais des Thermes 76 Entrance to the Cluny Museum, Rue du Sammerard 77 Staircase, Cluny Museum 80 Dormer Windows at the Cluny Museum 81 Group of Shafted Weapons in the Artillery Museum 84 Decorated Spanish Cannon in the Artillery Museum 85 Decorated Muskets in the Artillery Museum 85 The Deaf and Dumb Institution 89 Elm Tree in the Court of Honour at the Deaf and Dumb Institution 92 Statue of the Abbé de l’Épée at the Deaf and Dumb Institution 93 The Val de Grâce from the Rue de la Santé 96 View from the Pont de la Concorde facing 97 Entrance to the Observatory 100 The Gardens of the Observatory, Boulevard Arago 101 Place de l’Observatoire 104 School of Drawing, Rue l’École de Médecine 105 Statue of Marshal Ney 105 School of Medicine 107 New Wing of the School of Medicine 107 Hôtel du Cheval Blanc 108 Rue de l’Odéon 109 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie 109 Odéon Theatre 111 The Luxemburg Palace: the Garden Façade 112 The Luxemburg Palace from the Terrace 112 The Senate Chamber 113 Entrance Court, Luxemburg Palace 115 Grand Avenue, Luxemburg Gardens 115 Sculpture Gallery, Luxemburg Palace 116 Salle des Fêtes, Luxemburg Palace 117 The Central Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens 119 Façade of the Ancient Chapel of the Daughters of Calvary, Luxemburg 120 Listening to the Band in the Luxemburg Gardens 121 The Marie de Médicis Grotto and Fountain 124 Back of the Marie de Médicis Fountain 125 Fremiel-Carpeaux Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens 126 The Luxemburg Museum 128 The Hôtel de Sens facing 129 The Mineralogical Museum 129 Prison of La Santé 132 Inside the Walls of La Santé 132 The Common Quarter, La Santé—“The Parlour” 133 Interior of La Santé 135 Gaolers’ Mess-room, La Santé 136 Entrance to La Grande Roquette 137 Warders’ Room and adjoining Courtyard, La Grande Roquette 140 Chapel, La Grande Roquette 141 The Chapel-school, La Petite Roquette 143 The Political Quarter, Sainte-Pélagie 144 The Courtyard, Saint-Lazare 145 Buffon 148 The Carnivora Section, Jardin des Plantes 149 Entrance to Hothouses, Jardin des Plantes 149 Marabout Storks in the Jardin des Plantes 151 The Polar Bear in the Jardin des Plantes 151 The Bear-pit, Jardin des Plantes 152 Dromedary in the Jardin des Plantes 153 Llama in the Jardin des Plantes 155 Rue des Chantres, looking towards Notre-Dame 156 Site of the House of Abailard and Héloise, Rue des Chantres 157 Rue des Chantres, looking towards the Quai 158 Portion of the Façade, Musée Carnavalet 159 The Opera House facing 161 Entrance to the Mont-de-Piété, Chaussée d’Antin 161 The Jewellery Stores, Rue des Blancs Manteaux 163 In the Rue de Capron Branch of the Mont-de-Piété 164 The Sale-room of the Mont-de-Piété, Rue des Blancs Manteaux 165 Rue de Tournon, with the Façade of the Senate House 168 The Saint-Germain Market 169 The Tower of Saint-Germain-des-Prés 171 Saint-Germain-des-Prés 172 The Side Entrance to Saint-Germain-des-Prés 173 The Rue de l’Abbaye 174 Saint-Sulpice and Apsis of Saint-Sulpice 176 Fountain, Place Saint-Sulpice 177 The Garden, School of Fine Arts 180 The Arc de Gaillon, School of Fine Arts 181 Courtyard, School of Fine Arts 181 A Façade on the Quai Malaquais 182 Street Scene 184 Hôtel des Invalides 185 Dome of the Hôtel des Invalides 186 Dormer Window on the Façade, Hôtel des Invalides 187 The Court of Honour, Hôtel des Invalides 187 Invalides 188 Tomb of Napoleon 189 Entrance to the Tomb of Napoleon 191 Street Scene 192 Latude recognises D’Aligre facing 193 The Laennec Hospital, Rue de Sèvres 193 The Children’s Hospital, Rue de Sèvres 195 The Blind School: in the Work-room 196 Attendants’ Room in a Paris Hospital 197 La Charité 198 Hospital on the Boulevard du Pont Royal 199 Entrance to the St. Louis Hospital 200 Courtyard of the St. Louis Hospital 200 A Ward in the St. Louis Hospital 201 The Repairing Room, St. Louis Hospital 201 The Tenon Hospital 203 Nurse Pupils at the Maternity Hospital 204 The Maternity Hospital 205 Font at the Maternity Hospital 205 Hôspital de la Pitié 206 Façade of the Main Buildings, Salpêtrière 208 The Mazarin Ward, Salpêtrière 209 Place de Conseil, Salpêtrière 212 The Park, Salpêtrière 213 The Village, Salpêtrière 216 The Lunatics’ Quarter, Salpêtrière 217 The Chapel, Salpêtrière 220 The Bicêtre, 1710 (After Gueroult) 221 Dinner-Time at Bicêtre 224 Entrance to Bicêtre 224 The Bièvre facing 225 Avenue des Gobelins 226 The Bièvre in the Gardens of the Gobelins 227 The Old Buildings of the Gobelins 228 In the Gardens of the Gobelins 228 Interior of the Gobelins 229 A Street in the Neighbourhood of the Gobelins 230 Façade of the Chamber of Deputies on Place du Palais Bourbon 232 Chamber of Deputies from the Quai d’Orsay 233 Ruins of the Palace of the Council of State, Quai d’Orsay 237 Palace of the Legion of Honour 238 The Ministry of War 240 Fountain in the Rue de Grenelle 241 Grimm and Diderot 244 Statue of Diderot, Boulevard St.-Germain, facing the Rue St.-Benoit 245 Entrance to the Courtyard of the Dragon 248 Courtyard of the Dragon 249 The Montparnasse Station 253 Second-hand Bookstalls 256 The Bureau de Bienfaisance Asylum at Vincennes: (1) The Façade. (2) The Bowling Green facing 257 Old-Clothes Dealer 260 Le Débarcadère des Bateaux-Omnibus: Vendors of Refreshments 261 Snow Scene 267 Bookstalls on the Quai Voltaire 268 Édmond About 272 The late Albert Wolff, of the Figaro 273 Statue of Voltaire, 277 The Pont du Carrousel and the Louvre, from the Quai Malaquais 280 The Seine, between the City and the Quai des Augustines 281 Jean Jacques Rousseau 284 Madame D’Épinay 285 A Night Refuge in the Vaugirard Quarter facing 289 Cardinal Mazarin 289 Entrance to the Hôtel de Chateaubriand, in the Faubourg St. Germain 293 The Bridge, Place, and Boulevard St. Michel 296 The St. Michel Fountain 297 The Castle of Chambord 301 Porte aux Pommes: Fruit-boats on the Seine 304 Porte aux Pommes 305 The Villette Abbatoirs 309 A A Seine Steamboat 312 The Seine at Grenelle 313 The Chapelle Saint Denis Barrier 317 The Octroi Barriers of Petit-Château and Grand-Bercy 320 Versailles: the Façade and the Great Fountain facing 321 Tram at the Barrier 321 Street Scene 324 Asylum for Women, Rue Fessart: The Refectory 329 A “Bureau de Bienfaisance” 332 A Night Refuge 333 Pensioners of “L’Assistance Publique” 335, 336 Versailles (from an old print) 341 The Colonnade of Versailles 344 The Gallery of Battles, Versailles 345 General Trochu 349 Map of the Fortifications at the Siege of Paris 352 The Prussians Entering Paris facing 353 Prince Bismarck 355 M. Thiers 357 Marshal MacMahon 360 OUTSIDE A RAILWAY STATION IN PARIS. PARIS, OLD AND NEW. CHAPTER I. STREET CHARACTERS. The Cocher—The Bus-driver—The Private Coachman—The Hackney Coachman—The Public Writer—The Flower-girl—The Oyster-woman. PARISIAN who is not rich enough to keep a distinguished chef of his own will occasionally order a dainty dinner to be forwarded to him from some hotel or restaurant; and in these cases the repast, as soon as it is ready, is sometimes put into a hackney cab and driven to the house of the consignee by the cocher, who is not unaccustomed to find this “fare” more remunerative than the fare he habitually conveys. A glance at the cocher, as another of the Parisian types of character, may here be not inopportune. As a matter of fact, however, the cocher is not one type but several. The name applies to the driver of the omnibus, of the fiacre, and of the private carriage. As to the omnibus driver, he is more amiable, more easy-going, less sarcastic than his counterpart in London. Nobody would ever hear an omnibus driver in Paris say, as one has been heard to say in London, when a lady passenger requested to be put down at 339½ —— Street, “Certainly, madam, and would you like me to drive upstairs?” Nor is the Paris cabman so extortionate as his London brother; for the fare-regulations, by which there is one fixed charge for the conveyance of a passenger any distance within a certain radius, precludes the inevitable dispute which awaits the lady or gentleman who in our metropolis dares to take a four-wheeler or a hansom. Already in the sixteenth century hackney carriages were driven in the streets of Paris; and any differences arising between the cocher and his passenger were at this period referred to the lieutenant of the police. The private coachmen, attached to the service of the nobility, found their position a somewhat perilous one in an age when quarrels were so frequent on the question of social precedence. If two aristocratic carriages met in some narrow street, barring each {Page 1} {2} other’s way, the footmen would get down and fight for a passage. Serious wounds were sometimes inflicted, and even the master would now and then step out of his vehicle and, with drawn sword, join in the affray. The coachman, meanwhile, prouder in livery than his master in braided coat, remained motionless on his box in spite of the blows which were being dealt around. It is related that when on one occasion a party of highwaymen attacked the carriage of Benserade, poet, wit, and dramatic author, his coachman sat calmly at his post, and amused himself with whistling whilst his master was being stripped of everything. From time to time he turned towards the robbers and said, “Gentlemen, shall you soon have finished, and can I continue my journey?” The private coachman varied in those days, as he has always done, according to the position of the master or mistress whom he served; and Mercier, writing at a later period, indicates a sufficient variety of cochers of this class. “You can clearly distinguish the coachman of a courtesan,” he says, “from that of a president; the coachman of a duke from that of a financier; but, at the exit from the theatre, would you like to know where such and such a vehicle is going? Listen to the order which the master gives to the lackey, or rather which the latter transmits to the coachman. In the Marais they say ‘Au logis’; in the Isle of St Louis ‘À la maison’; in the Faubourg Saint-Germain ‘À l’hôtel’; and in the Faubourg Saint-Honoré ‘Allez!’ With the grandeur of this last word no one can fail to be impressed. At the theatre door stands a thundering personage with a voice like Stentor, who cries: ‘The carriage of Monsieur le Marquis!’ ‘The carriage of Madame la Comtesse!’ ‘The carriage of M. le Président!’ His terrible voice resounds to the very interior of the taverns where the lackeys are drinking, and of the billiard rooms where the coachmen are quarrelling and disputing. This voice quite drowns the confused sounds of men and horses. Lackeys and coachmen at this re-echoing signal abandon their pint-pots and their cues, and rush out to resume the reins and open the doors.” The profession of the hackney coachman has always been and still is subjected to a special legislation. In Paris anyone exercising it must be at least eighteen years of age; carry upon him the official documents in virtue of which he wields his whip; present to his fare the card which indicates the number and tariff of the vehicle, and which the passenger must retain in view of possible disputes; show politeness to the public; receive his fare in advance when he is driving to theatres, halls, or fêtes where there is likely to be a crush of vehicles; never carry more than his legal number of passengers, and not smoke on duty. When travelling he must take the right side of the road, avoid intercepting funeral processions and bodies of troops, go at walking pace through the markets and in certain other specified places; and, from nightfall, light up his vehicle with a couple of lamps. The lamps used for the cabs of the Imperial Company are blue, yellow, red, or green. These different colours are intended to induce passengers leaving the theatre at night to take, by preference, those vehicles which belong to the quarter in which they live; blue indicating the regions of Popincourt and Belleville; yellow those of Poissonière-Montmartre; red those of the Champs Élysées, Passy, and Batignolles; and green those of the Invalides and the Observatory. Besides the penalties pronounced by the penal code for causing death or personal injury through careless driving, minor infractions of the regulations are punished, by the prefect of police, with suspension of licence or, in certain cases, final withdrawal. The proprietors and masters are responsible for any offences committed by the coachmen, and for any loss or injury to luggage or other goods confided to their vehicles for transport. The law which prescribes to Paris cabmen one uniform fare for journeys of no matter what length within a certain radius would at first appear to be very much to the advantage of the public, who are thus protected from extortion. It has a great drawback, all the same. In London a cabman is always delighted to see a gentleman step into his vehicle, even though the welcome he evinces be rather that of the spider to the fly. He unhesitatingly drives him to his destination, and the gentleman, even though he is fleeced at the end of the journey, at least gets where he wished to go. But the Paris cabman is fastidious. If the destination mentioned by the intending passenger does not exactly suit him, he is prone to shake his head, ply his whip, and drive away with an empty vehicle. The alacrity and enthusiasm of the London cabman are due to the fact that when he has his passenger safely inside the hansom or “growler” his soul is animated by the hope of obtaining a fare indefinitely in excess of the legal tariff. The uniformity of fares in Paris deprives the cabman of any enthusiastic interest in his work, as it likewise strips him of some of the curious and amusing characteristics which he might otherwise exhibit. In our own metropolis a famous millionaire, having ridden one day in a cab for the distance of a mile and a half, tendered the driver a shilling in payment of his fare. The driver stared at the coin in the palm of his hand and then proceeded to remonstrate. “Both your sons, sir,” he said, “whenever they ride in my hansom, pay me at least half-a- crown.” “I dare say they do,” replied the millionaire, “for they have an old fool of a father to back them up.” In Paris, where this millionaire had a brother as rich as himself, such an incident would have been impossible. {3} WAITING FOR A FARE. WAITING FOR A FARE. Another figure of the Paris streets is, or rather until some twenty-five years ago was, the Public Writer; not the contributor to an important daily paper, but an unhappy scribe whose task it was to put into epistolary form such matter as was entrusted to him for the purpose by illiterate cabmen, workmen, and servant girls. The little booths with desks in front where he exercised his strange profession have disappeared as Paris has been demolished and rebuilt. The spread of education among the lower classes was really his death-blow. The public writer was usually an old man, sometimes one of erudition, who had been reduced by severe reverses or persistent misery to a very low position. He wrote a beautiful hand, and could on occasion compose a poem. He could execute a piece of penmanship in so many different handwritings (seventeen or eighteen), and his flourishes and ornamentations were so magnificent, that he would never have prostituted his pen to the service of shopgirls and domestics had not starvation stared him in the face. Moreover, the cultivation of an acquaintanceship with the Muses solaced him, and caused him to forget the day of his greatness when, holding the diploma of a “master-writer,” he inscribed the Ten Commandments or executed a dedication to the king on a bit of vellum smaller than a crown piece. He could dash off verses at a moment’s notice, and had always in reserve a varied assortment of festive songs, wedding-lines, epitaphs, and simple and double acrostics, to serve whatever occasion might arise. OMNIBUS COACHMAN. PRIVATE COACHMAN {4} Above the Public Writer’s door, which he threw open every morning to his clients, this legend was inscribed: —“The Tomb of Secrets.” The passer-by thus learned that there—in the words of a French chronicler—“behind those four coarsely-whitened windows of the entrance door, was an ear and a hand which held the key of human infirmities; that there, smiling and serviceable, Discretion resided in flesh and blood. Curious to see everything, you approached; a few specimens of petitions to the Chief of the State, drawn up on official paper and sealed with wafers, gave you a foretaste of the master’s dexterity. Moreover you could read, in a position well exposed to view, some piece of poetic inscription, deficient in neither rhyme nor even reason, and cleverly calculated to allure you forthwith. The running hand, the round hand, the English hand, and the Gothic hand alternated freely in the ingenious composition, not to mention the flourishings with which the lines ended, the page encased in ornamented spirals, the capitals complicated with arabesques, and so forth. One day we read one of the writings peculiar to this profession, and copied it with a haste which we do not regret to-day when the booth where we saw it has been removed. This booth, a mere plank box, three feet square, whence issued during forty years an incalculable number of letters, petitions, and other documents, was situated in the quarter of Saint-Victor, at the foot of the Rue des Fossés, Saint-Bernard. Its occupant was a man named Étienne Larroque, an old bailiff whom misfortune had reduced to this poor trade. Nearly eighty years of age, this Nestor of public writers was known to everybody.” To the pedestrian his signboard proclaimed the particulars of his profession in a piece of poetry which might at all events have been much worse, and of which the metre was marred only by one fault—a certain line with a foot too much. Dressed in a frock coat maltreated by years, the writer, continues the before-mentioned chronicler, sat in his office, with his spectacles on his nose, and all his pens cut before him. He placed himself eagerly at the service of anyone who crossed the threshold. Sometimes the strangest revelations were confided to him. Installed in his cane arm- chair, furnished with a cushion which he had sat upon till it was crushed to a pancake, he lent a grave ear to the pretty little rosy mouths that came to tell him everything, as though he were a confessor or a physician, and took up his pen to write for them their letters of love or complaint. More than one unhappy girl came to him to sigh and weep and to accuse the monster who had sworn to wed her; more than one fireman came to confess to him the flame which was burning in his breast; more than one soldier to request him to pen a challenge. HACKNEY COACHMAN. HEARSE COACHMAN As the depository of secrets innumerable, the Public Writer was a most important personage; or would have been had he been able to take full literary advantage of the confidences entrusted to him. Richardson’s knowledge of the female heart is said to have been due to the good faith with which he inspired a number of young ladies, who thereupon gave him, unconsciously, material for such characters as Pamela and Clarissa Harlowe. They consulted him now and then about their love letters. But the Public Writer had love letters, letters of reproach, letters of explanation, letters of farewell, to write every day, and by the dozen. It is not recorded, however, that any Public Writer was sufficiently inspired, or sufficiently interested in his habitual work to turn the dramatic materials which must often have come beneath him into novels or plays. {5} AN INVITATION TO A “PETIT VERRE.” AN INVITATION TO A “PETIT VERRE.” The personage known as the Public Writer was at least a more useful institution than the book entitled “The Complete Letter-Writer,” the function of which is to supply correspondence in regard to every possible incident in life. The Public Writer was, if up to his work, capable of suiting his language to peculiar cases, whereas the Complete Letter-Writer was an oracle whose utterances came forth hard and fast, in such a way that the ignorant devotees could not change them. Thus the illiterate persons who could not read at all had a clear advantage over those whose education enabled them to read the Complete Letter-Writer, but not to apply it. In an excellent farce by M. Varin, one of the best comic dramatists of the French stage, an amusing equivoque—or quiproquo as the French say—is caused by an ignorant young man in some house of business addressing a love letter to the dark-haired daughter of his employer, which expresses admiration for locks of gold such as belong in profusion, not to the girl, but to her buxom mother. When the husband’s jealousy is excited and a variety of comic incidents have resulted therefrom, it appears that the unlettered and moreover foolish young clerk has copied his epistle out of a letter-book, and, thinking apparently that one love letter would do as well as another, has addressed to a girl with dark hair a declaration intended by the author of the Complete Letter-Writer for a woman who is beautifully blonde. No such mistake as this could have occurred had the amorous young clerk told his case to a Public Writer, and ordered an appropriate letter for the occasion. Another interesting type of street character in Paris is the bouquetière or flower-girl. She is more enterprising and engaging than her counterpart in London. She will approach a gentleman who happens to be walking past and stick a flower in his button-hole, leaving it to his own sense of chivalry whether he pays her anything or not. Nor does the device infrequently produce a piece of silver. There is generally one flower-girl in Paris who poses as a celebrity—either on account of her beauty or of other qualities of a more indefinable character. Fashionable Parisians resort to her stall and pay fantastic prices for whatever bloom she pins to their breast. The flower-girl of the Jockey Club, who used to attend the races and ply her trade in the enclosure of the grand stand, expected a louis as her ordinary fee. The oyster-woman, too, is a highly important personage. Paris consumes three hundred million oysters a year, and the dispensing of these bivalves keeps the lady in question sufficiently active whilst the season lasts. At breakfast-time or dinner-time, with a white napkin thrust in her girdle, a knife in her hand, and a smile on her lips, she is to be seen stationed at the entrance to restaurants in anticipation of the waiter rushing out and shouting: “One dozen,” “Two dozen,” or “Ten dozen—open!” A police ordinance of September 25th, 1771, forbade oyster-women to exercise their trade between the last day of April and the 10th of September, under penalty of a fine of 200 francs and the confiscation of their stock. This ordinance was destined to fall into disuse; but inasmuch as the prohibited months are those in which oysters are at their worst, the écaillères of Paris do in fact to-day suspend their trade during May, June, July, and August—months which they devote to the sale of sugared barley-water and other cooling beverages. In Paris a sempstress is supposed to be “gentille,” a lingère, or getter-up of linen, “aimable,” a flower-girl “pretty.” The oyster-woman, although not characterised by any one particular quality, is credited with a combination of qualities in a more or less modified degree. Without being in her first youth, she is young; without being in the bloom of beauty, she does not lack personal charm; and frequently she invests even the opening of oysters with a grace which may well excite admiration. La belle écaillère is indeed the name traditionally applied to her. With the origin of this name a tragic story is associated. There was once a charmingly pretty oyster-girl named Louise Leroux, known as La belle écaillère. She had a lover named Montreuil, a fireman, who, in a moment of frantic jealousy, plunged his sword into her breast. This horrible {6} {7} crime at once rendered “the beautiful oyster-girl” famous, not only in Paris, but throughout Europe; and in due time the legend of her life and love took dramatic form, and found its way to the stage. The interest excited in her unhappy end was all the greater inasmuch as her murderer had eluded justice by flying to England, where, in London, he set up as a fencing master. The Gaieté Theatre achieved, in 1837, one of its greatest successes by putting on the boards, under the title of La Belle Écaillère, the tragic history of Louise Leroux. Since then the name has been familiarly applied without discrimination to the female oyster-sellers of Paris, many of whom have well deserved it. But while bearing the name, they have abandoned the traditional fireman, as rather too dangerous a commodity. In lieu of firemen they have captivated notaries, financiers, and others in superior stations of life; whilst one is known to have turned the head of a state minister, who, even if he did not marry her, confessed the passion with which she inspired him by devouring thirty-two dozen of her oysters every morning before breakfast. The flame within him had first been excited by the siren’s ready wit. As he was entering a restaurant one day, a friend who accompanied him remarked: “To-day, my dear sir, more than ever, France dances on a volcano.” “What nonsense!” cried the écaillère; “she dances on a heap of oysters!” Next day the exclamation was reported in a Paris journal, which easily turned it to political account. There was another oyster-girl who solved a question of lexicographic definition which had hopelessly baffled the Academicians. A new edition of the Dictionnaire de l’Académie was being prepared, and it became necessary to establish the distinction of meaning between the two expressions de suite and tout de suite. The forty Academicians were all at variance about it, and were about to tear their hair, when one of them, Népomucène Lemercier, exclaimed: “Let us go and dine at Ramponneau’s. That’s better than disputing. We can discuss the matter during dessert.” “Agreed,” replied another member—Nodier. The Academicians forthwith set out, and when they had arrived at their destination one of them, Parseval-Grandmaison, who ordered the dinner, said to the écaillère: “Open forty dozen oysters for us de suite, and serve them tout de suite.” “But, sir,” replied the oyster-woman, “if I open them de suite, I cannot serve them tout de suite.” The Academicians looked at each other in astonishment. The problem had been solved. They had now discovered that of the two expressions tout de suite indicated the greater celerity. Street Scene Street Scene IN THE AVENUE DU BOIS DE BOULOGNE, AT NIGHT. {8} {9}