Project Gutenberg's Ocean to Ocean on Horseback, by Willard Glazier This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Ocean to Ocean on Horseback Being the Story of a Tour in the Saddle from the Atlantic to the Pacific; with Especial Reference to the Early History and Devel Author: Willard Glazier Release Date: October 4, 2011 [EBook #37615] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OCEAN TO OCEAN ON HORSEBACK *** Produced by Julia Miller, Julia Neufeld and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) Advertisement Page POPULAR WORKS OF CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, THE SOLDIER-AUTHOR. I. Three years in the Federal Cavalry. II. Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape. III. Battles for the Union. IV. Heroes of Three Wars. V. Peculiarities of American Cities. VI. Down the Great River. VII. Headwaters of the Mississippi. VIII. Ocean to Ocean on Horseback. Captain Glazier's works are growing more and more popular every day. Their delineations of social, military and frontier life, constantly varying scenes, and deeply interesting stories, combine to place their writer in the front rank of American authors. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. PERSONS DESIRING AGENCIES FOR ANY OF CAPTAIN GLAZIER'S BOOKS SHOULD ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS. Frontispiece OCEAN TO OCEAN ON HORSEBACK; Being The Story of a Tour in the Saddle From the Atlantic to the Pacific; with Especial Reference to the Early History and Development of Cities and Towns along the Route; and Regions Traversed beyond the Mississippi; together with Incidents, Anecdotes and Adventures of the Journey. BY CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER. Author of "Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape," "Three Years in the Federal Cavalry," "Battles for the Union," "Heroes of Three Wars," "Peculiarities of American Cities," "Down the Great River," "Headwaters of the Mississippi," Etc. Illustrated. PHILADELPHIA: EDGEWOOD PUBLISHING COMPANY. 1899. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1895, by WILLARD GLAZIER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C. TO THE MEMORY OF My Beloved Mother, TO WHOSE Precepts and Example Signature I AM INDEBTED FOR WHATEVER I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH IN The Journey of Life, THIS VOLUME THE RECORD OF MY LONGEST AMERICAN JOURNEY IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. PREFACE. It was the intention of the writer to publish a narrative descriptive of his overland tour from the Atlantic to the Pacific soon after returning from California in 1876, and his excuse for the delay in publication is that a variety of circumstances compelled him to postpone for a time the duty of arranging the contents of his journal until other pressing matters had been satisfactorily attended to. Again, considerable unfinished literary work, set aside when he began preparation for crossing the Continent, had to be resumed, and for these reasons the story of his journey from "Ocean to Ocean on Horseback" is only now ready for the printer. In view of this delay in going to press, the author will endeavor to show a due regard for the changes time has wrought along his line of march, and while noting the incidents of his long ride from day to day, it has been his aim so far as possible to discuss the regions traversed, the growth of cities and the development of their industries from the standpoint of the present. Albany, New York, August 22, 1895. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. Boyhood Longings—Confronted by Obstacles—Trapping Along the Oswegatchie—Enter Gouverneur Wesleyan Seminary—Appointed to State Normal College—Straitened Circumstances—Teach School in Rensselaer County—War of the Rebellion—Enlist in a Cavalry Regiment—Taken Prisoner —Fourteen Months in Southern Prisons—Escape from Columbia—Recaptured—Escape from Sylvania, Georgia—Re-enter the Army—Close of the War—Publish "Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape" and Other Books—Decide to Cross the Continent—Preparation for Journey—Ocean to Ocean on Horseback CHAPTER II. BOSTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. Early History and Development—Situation of the Metropolis of New England—Boston Harbor—The Cradle of Liberty—Old South Church—Migrations of the Post Office—Patriots of the Revolution— The Boston Tea Party—Bunker Hill Monument—Visit of Lafayette—The Public Library—House [vii] [viii] [ix] 25 where Franklin was Born—The Back Bay—Public Gardens—Streets of Boston—Soldiers' Monument—The Old Elm—Commonwealth Avenue—State Capitol—Tremont Temple—Edward Everett—Wendell Phillips—William Loyd Garrison—Phillips Brooks—Harvard University— Wellesley College—Holmes, Parkman—Prescott, Lowell, Longfellow—Boston's Claims to Greatness CHAPTER III. LECTURE AT TREMONT TEMPLE. Subject of Lecture—Objects Contemplated—Grand Army of the Republic—Introduction by Captain Theodore L. Kelly—Reference to Army and Prison Experiences—Newspaper Comment— Proceeds of Lecture Given to Posts 7 and 15—Letter to Adjutant-General of Department CHAPTER IV. BOSTON TO ALBANY. First Day of Journey—Start from the Revere House—Escorted to Brighton by G. A. R. Comrades— Dinner at Cattle Fair Hotel—South Framingham—Second Day—Boston and Albany Turnpike— Riding in a Rain-storm—Arrival at Worcester—Lecture in Opera House—Pioneer History—Rapid Growth of Worcester—Lincoln Park—The Old Common—Third and Fourth Days—The Ride to Springfield—Met by Wife and Daughter—Lecture at Haynes Opera House—Fifth Day—Ride to Russell—The Berkshire Hills—Sixth Day—Journey to Becket—Rainbow Reflections—Seventh Day—Over the Hoosac Mountains—Eighth Day—Arrival at Pittsfield—Among the Lebanon Shakers—Ninth Day—Reach Nassau, New York CHAPTER V. FOUR DAYS AT ALBANY. Nassau to Albany—Among Old Friends in Rensselaer County—Thoughts of Rip Van Winkle—Crossing the Hudson—Albany as Seen from the River—Schoolday Associations—Early History—Settled by the Dutch—Henry Hudson—Killian Van Rensselaer—Fort Orange—Peter Schuyler and Robert Livingstone—Lecture at Tweddle Hall—Call at the Capitol—Meet Army Comrades. CHAPTER VI. ALBANY TO SYRACUSE. Fourteenth Day—On the Schenectady Turnpike—Riding between Showers—Talk with Peter Lansing— Reach Schenectady—Lecture at Union Hall under G. A. R. Auspices—Fifteenth and Sixteenth Days—Go over to Troy—Lecture at Harmony Hall—Visit Old Friends—Seventeenth Day— Return to Schenectady—Eighteenth Day—In the Mohawk Valley—Halt at Amsterdam—Reach Fonda—Nineteenth Day—Saint Johnsville—Twentieth Day—Little Falls—Twenty-first Day— Utica—Twenty-second Day—Rome—Twenty-third Day—Chittenango CHAPTER VII. TWO DAYS AT SYRACUSE. Walks and Talks with the People—Early History—Lake Onondaga—Father Le Moyne—Discovery of Salt Springs—Major Danforth—Joshua Forman—James Geddes—The Erie Canal—Visit of La Fayette—Syracuse University—Lecture at Shakespeare Hall. CHAPTER VIII. SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. Twenty-sixth Day—Grand Army Friends—General Sniper—Captain Auer—Stopped by a Thunder- shower—An Unpleasant Predicament—Twenty-Seventh Day—Jordan, New York—Lake Skaneateles—Twenty-eighth Day—Photographed—Entertained at Port Byron—Montezuma Swamp—Twenty-ninth Day—Newark, New York—Journey Continued Along the New York Central Railway—Another Adventure with Paul—Thirtieth Day—Fairport—Riding in the Cool of 32 [x] 70 81 110 118 [xi] 132 141 the Day CHAPTER IX. FOUR DAYS AT ROCHESTER. Rainstorm Anticipated—Friends of the Horse—Seven-Sealed Wonder—Newspaper Controversy— Lecture at Corinthian Hall—Colonel J. A. Reynolds—Pioneer History—Colonel Nathaniel Rochester—William Fitzhugh—Charles Carroll—Rapid Growth of City—Sam Patch—Genesee Falls—The Erie Canal—Mount Hope—Lake Ontario—Fruit Nurseries CHAPTER X. ROCHESTER TO BUFFALO. Thirty-fifth Day—Churchville—Cordiality of the People—Dinner at Chili—Thirty-sixth Day—Bergen Corners—Byron Centre—Rev. Edwin Allen—Thirty-seventh Day—Batavia—Meet a Comrade of the Harris Light Cavalry—Thirty-eighth Day—"Croft's"—More Trouble with Mosquitoes— Amusing Episode—Thirty-ninth Day—Crittenden—Rural Reminiscences—Fortieth Day— Lancaster—Lectured in Methodist Church—Captain Remington CHAPTER XI. THREE DAYS AT BUFFALO. "Queen City" of the Lakes—Arrival at the Tift House—Lecture at St. James Hall—Major Farquhar— Aboriginal History—The Eries—Iroquois—"Cats"—La Hontan—Lake Erie—Black Rock—War of 1812—The Erie Canal—Buffalo River—Grosvenor Library—Historical Society—Red Jacket— Forest Lawn—Predictions for the Future CHAPTER XII. BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND. Forty-fourth Day—On the Shore of Lake Erie—Forty-fifth Day—Again on the Shore of Erie— Bracing Air—Enchanting Scenery—Angola—Big Sister Creek—Forty-sixth Day—Angola to Dunkirk—Forty-eighth Day—Dunkirk to Westfield—Fruit and Vegetable Farms—Fredonia —Forty-ninth Day—Westfield to North East—Cordial Reception—Fiftieth Day—North East to Erie—Oliver Hazzard Perry—Fifty-first Day—Erie to Swanville—Fifty-second Day—Talk with Early Settlers—John Joseph Swan—Fifty-third Day—Swanville to Girard—Greeted by Girard Band—Lecture at Town Hall—Fifty-fourth Day—Girard to Ashtabula—Lecture Postponed —Fifty-fifth Day—Ashtabula to Painesville—The Centennial Fourth—Halt at Farm House—Fifty- sixth Day—Reach Willoughby—Guest of the Lloyds CHAPTER XIII. FIVE DAYS AT CLEVELAND. An Early Start—School Girls—"Do you Like Apples, Mister?"—Mentor—Home of Garfield—Dismount at Euclid—Rumors of the Custer Massacre—Reach the "Forest City"—Met by Comrades of the G. A. R.—Lecture at Garrett Hall—Lake Erie—Cuyahoga River—Early History—Moses Cleveland— Connecticut Land Company—Job Stiles—The Ohio Canal—God of Lake Erie—"Ohio City"— West Side Boat Building—"The Pilot"—Levi Johnson-Visit of Lorenzo Dow—Monument Square— Commodore Perry—Public Buildings—Euclid Avenue—"The Flats"—Standard Oil Company CHAPTER XIV. CLEVELAND TO TOLEDO. Sixty-first Day—Again in the Saddle—Call on Major Hessler—Donate Proceeds of Lecture to Soldiers' Monument Fund—Letters from General James Barnett and Rev. William Earnshaw—Stop for Night at Black River—Sixty-second Day—Mounted at Nine A.M.—Halted at Vermillion for Dinner— Lake Shore Road—More Mosquitoes—Reach Huron Late at Night—Sixty-third Day—Huron to Sandusky—Traces of the Red Man—Ottawas and Wyandots—Johnson's Island—Lecture in Union 141 147 158 171 [xii] 183 206 Hall—Captain Culver—Sixty-fourth Day—Ride to Castalia—A Remarkable Spring—Sixty-fifth Day—Reach Fremont—Home of President Hayes—Sixty-sixth Day—Reach Elmore, Ohio— Comparison of Hotels CHAPTER XV. FIVE DAYS AT TOLEDO. Ride from Elmore—Lecture at Lyceum Hall—Forsyth Post, G. A. R.—Doctor J. T. Woods— Concerning General Custer—Pioneer History—Battle of Fallen Timbers—Mad Anthony Wayne— Miami and Wabash Indians—The Toledo War—Unpleasant Complications—Governor Lucas— Strategy of General Vanfleet— Milbourn Wagon Works—Visited by a Detroit Friend CHAPTER XVI. TOLEDO TO DETROIT. Seventy-second Day—Leave Toledo—Change of Route—Ride to Erie, Michigan—Paul Shows His Mettle—Seventy-third Day—Sunday —Go to Church—Rev. E. P. Willard—Solicitude of Friends — Seventy-fourth Day—Ride to Monroe—Greeted with Music—Hail Columbia—Star-Spangled Banner—Home of Custer—Meet Custer Family—Custer Monument Association—Received at City Hall—Great Enthusiasm—River Rasin—Indian Massacre—General Winchester— Battle of the Thames—Death of Tecumseh—Monroe Monitor—Seventy-seventh Day—Lecture at City Hall— Personal Recollections of Custer—Incidents of His School Life—Seventy-eighth Day—Leave Monroe—Huron River—Traces of the Mound Builders—Rockwood—Seventy-ninth Day—Along the Detroit River—Wyandotte—Ecorse—Eightieth Day—Letter from Judge Wing—Indorsement of Custer Monument Association CHAPTER XVII. FOUR DAYS AT DETROIT. Leave Ecorse—Met at Fort Wayne—Sad News—Reach Detroit— Met by General Throop and Others —at Russell House—Lecture at St. Andrew's Hall—General Trowbridge—Meet Captain Hampton —Army and Prison Reminiscences—Pioneer History of Detroit— La Motte Cadillac—Miamies and Pottawattomies—Fort Ponchartrain— Plot of Pontiac—Major Gladwyn—Fort Shelby—War of 1812—General Brock and Tecumseh Advance on Detroit—Surrender of General Hull—British Compelled to Evacuate CHAPTER XVIII. DETROIT TO CHICAGO. Eighty-fifth Day—Leave Detroit Reluctantly—Paul in Good Spirits —Reach Inkster—Eighty-sixth Day—Lowering Clouds—Take Shelter under Trees and in a Woodshed—Meet War Veterans— Ypsilanti—Eighty-seventh Day—Lecture at Union Hall—Incidents of the Late War—Eighty- eighth Day—An Early Start—Ann Arbor —Michigan University—Dinner at Dexter—Eighty-ninth Day—Dinner at Grass Lake—Reach Jackson—Ninetieth Day—Comment of Jackson Citizen— Coal Fields—Grand River—Ninety-first Day—A Circus in Town—Parma—Ninety-second Day—"Wolverines"—Ninety-third Day—Ride to Battle Creek—Lecture at Stuart's Hall—Ninety- fourth Day—Go to Church—Goguac Lake—Ninety-fifth Day—Arrive at Kalamazoo—Sketch of the "Big Village"—Ninety-sixth Day—Return to Albion and Lecture in Opera House—Ninety- seventh Day—Lecture at Wayne Hall, Marshall—Ninety-eighth Day—Calhoun County—Ninety- ninth Day—Letter to Custer Monument Association—One Hundredth Day—Colonel Curtenius —One Hundred and First Day—Paw Paw—One Hundred and Second Day—South Bend, Indiana—Hon. Schuyler Colfax—One Hundred and Third Day—Grand Rapids—Speak in Luce's Hall—One Hundred and Fourth Day—Return to Decatur—One Hundred and Fifth Day—Again in Paw Paw—One Hundred and Sixth Day—Lecture at Niles—One Hundred and Seventh Day —Go to La Porte by Rail—One Hundred and Eighth Day—Return to Michigan City—One Hundred and Ninth Day—Go Back to Decatur, Michigan—One Hundred and Tenth to One Hundred and Twenty-second Day—Dowagiac—Buchanan—Rolling Prairie CHAPTER XIX. 221 [xiii] 231 243 265 [xiv] 279 THREE DAYS AT CHICAGO. Register at the Grand Pacific Hotel—Lecture at Farwell Hall—Visit McVicker's Theatre—See John T. Raymond in "Mulberry Sellers"—The Chicago Exposition—Site of City—Origin of Name—Father Marquette—First Dwelling—Death of Marquette—Lake Michigan—Fort Dearborn—First Settlement Destroyed by Indians—Chicago as a Commercial City—The Great Fire—An Unparalleled Conflagration—Rises from her Ashes—Financial Reorganization—Greater than Before —Schools and Colleges—Historical Society—The Palmer House—Spirit of the People—One Hundred and Twenty-sixth Day—Again at Michigan City—Attend a Political Meeting—Hon. Daniel W. Voorhees—"Blue Jeans" Williams—One Hundred and Twenty-eighth Day—Leave Michigan City—Hobart—"Hoosierdum"—One Hundred and Twenty-ninth Day—Weather Much Cooler CHAPTER XX. CHICAGO TO DAVENPORT. One Hundred and Thirtieth Day—Followed by Prairie Wolves—Reach Joliet, Illinois—Lecture at Werner Hall—One Hundred and Thirty-first Day—Ride on Tow Path of Michigan Canal—Morris —One Hundred and Thirty-second Day—Corn and Hogs—Arrive at Ottawa—One Hundred and Thirty-third Day—Reach La Salle—One Hundred and Thirty-fourth Day—Colonel Stephens—One Hundred and Thirty-fifth Day—Visit Peru—One Hundred and Thirty-sixth Day—Mistaken for a Highwayman—One Hundred and Thirty-seventh Day—Fine Stock Farms —Wyanet—One Hundred and Thirty-eighth Day—Annawan—Commendatory Letter—One Hundred and Thirty-ninth Day—A Woman Farmer—One Hundred and Fortieth Day—Reach Milan, Illinois CHAPTER XXI. FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. Cross the Mississippi—Lecture at Moore's Hall—Colonel Russell—General Sanders—Early History of the City—Colonel George Davenport—Antoine Le Claire—Griswold College—Rock Island—Fort Armstrong—Rock Island Arsenal—General Rodman—Colonel Flagler—Rock Island City—Sac and Fox Indians—Black Hawk War—Jefferson Davis—Abraham Lincoln—Defeat of Black Hawk —Rock River—Indian Legends CHAPTER XXII. DAVENPORT TO DES MOINES. One Hundred and Forty-fifth Day—Leave Davenport—Stop over Night at Farm House—One Hundred and Forty-sixth Day—Reach Moscow, Iowa—Rolling Prairies—One Hundred and Forty-seventh Day—Weather Cold and Stormy—Iowa City—One Hundred and Forty-eighth Day—Description of City—One Hundred and Forty-ninth Day—Lectured at Ham's Hall—Hon. G. B. Edmunds—One Hundred and Fiftieth Day—Reach Tiffin—Guests of the Tiffin House —One Hundred and Fifty-first Day—Marengo—One Hundred and Fifty-second Day—Halt for the Night at Brooklyn—One Hundred and Fifty-third Day—Ride to Kellogg—Stop at a School House—Talk with Boys—One Hundred and Fifty-fourth Day—Reach Colfax—One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Day—Arrive at Des Moines—Capital of Iowa—Description of City—Professor Bowen—Meet an Army Comrade CHAPTER XXIII. DES MOINES TO OMAHA. One Hundred and Fifty-seventh Day—Leave Des Moines with Pleasant Reflections—Reach Adel— Dallas County—Raccoon River—One Hundred and Fifty-eighth Day—Ride through Redfield— Reach Dale City—Talk Politics with Farmers—One Hundred and Fifty-ninth Day—A Night with Coyotes—Re-enforced by a Friendly Dog—One Hundred and Sixtieth Day—Cold Winds from the Northwest—All Day on the Prairies—One Hundred and Sixty-first Day—Halt at Avoca —One Hundred and Sixty-second Day—Riding in the Rain—Reach Neola—One Hundred and Sixty-third Day—Roads in Bad Condition—Ride through Council Bluffs—Arrive at Omaha 333 [xv] 354 372 386 [xvi] 401 CHAPTER XXIV. A HALT AT OMAHA. The Metropolis of Nebraska—First Impressions—Peculiarity of the Streets—Hanscom Park—Poor House Farm—Prospect Cemetery—Douglas County Fair Grounds—Omaha Driving Park—Fort Omaha—Creighton College—Father Marquette—The Mormons—"Winter Quarters"—Lone Tree Ferry—Nebraska Ferry Company—Old State House—First Territorial Legislature—Governor Cummings—Omaha in the Civil War—Rapid Development of the "Gate City" CHAPTER XXV. OMAHA TO CHEYENNE. Leave Paul in Omaha—Purchase a Mustang—Use Mexican Saddle—Over the Great Plains—Surface of Nebraska—Extensive Beds of Peat—Salt Basins—The Platte River—High Winds—Dry Climate— Fertile Soil—Lincoln—Nebraska City—Fremont—Grand Island—Plum Creek—McPherson— Sheep Raising—Elk Horn River—In Wyoming Territory—Reach Cheyenne—Description of Wyoming "Magic City"—Vigilance Committee—Rocky Mountains—Laramie Plains—Union Pacific Railroad CHAPTER XXVI. CAPTURED BY INDIANS. Leave Cheyenne—Arrange to Journey with Herders—Additional Notes on Territory—Yellowstone National Park—Sherman—Skull Rocks—Laramie Plains—Encounter Indians—Friendly Signals— Surrounded by Arrapahoes—One Indian Killed—Taken Prisoners—Carried toward Deadwood— Indians Propose to Kill their Captives—Herder Tortured at the Stake—Move toward Black Hills— Escape from Guards—Pursued by the Arrapahoes—Take Refuge in a Gulch—Reach a Cattle Ranch—Secure a Mustang and Continue Journey CHAPTER XXVII. AMONG THE MORMONS. Ride Across Utah—Chief Occupation of the People—Description of Territory—Great Salt Lake— Mormon Settlements—Brigham Young—Peculiar Views of the Latter Day Saints—"Celestial Marriages"—Joseph Smith, the Founder of Mormonism—The Book of Mormon—City of Ogden— Pioneer History—Peter Skeen Ogden—Weber and Ogden Rivers—Heber C. Kimball—Echo Canyon—Enterprise of the Mormons—Rapid Development of the Territory CHAPTER XXVIII. OVER THE SIERRAS. The Word Sierra—At Kelton, Utah—Ride to Terrace—Wells, Nevada—The Sierra Nevada—Lake Tahoe—Silver Mines—The Comstock Lode—Stock Raising—Camp Halleck—Humboldt River— Mineral Springs—Reach Palisade—Reese River Mountain—Golconda—Winnemucca—Lovelocks —Wadsworth—Cross Truckee River—In California CHAPTER XXIX. ALONG THE SACRAMENTO. Colfax—Auburn—Summit—Reach Sacramento—California Boundaries—Pacific Ocean—Coast Range Mountains—The Sacramento Valley—Inhabitants of California—John A. Sutter—Sutter's Fort—A Saw-mill—James Wilson Marshall—Discovery of Gold—"Boys, I believe I have found a Gold Mine"—The Secret Out—First Days of Sacramento—A "City of Tents"—Capital of California CHAPTER XXX. SAN FRANCISCO AND END OF JOURNEY. 409 420 [xvii] 435 446 458 465 Metropolis of the Pacific Coast—Largest Gold Fields in the World—The Jesuits—Captain Sutter— Argonauts of "49"—Great Excitement—Discovery of Upper California—Sir Francis Drake—John P. Lease—The Founding of San Francisco—The "Golden Age"—Story of Kit Carson—The Golden Gate—San Francisco Deserted—The Cholera Plague—California Admitted to the Union— Crandall's Stage—Wonderful Development of San Francisco—United States Mint—Handsome Buildings—Trade with China, Japan, India and Australia—Go Out to the Cliff House—Ride into the Pacific—End of Journey ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Wayside Notes Frontispiece Views in Boston 33 Scenes in Boston 39 Boston and Environs 49 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston 57 Leaving the Revere House, Boston 71 Riding Through Cambridge 77 View in Worcester, Mass. 81 A New England Paper Mill 85 Old Toll-Bridge at Springfield 91 A Massachusetts Mill Stream 95 The Springfield Armory 99 A Mill in the Berkshire Hills 103 A Hamlet in Berkshire Hills 107 Suburb of Pittsfield 111 A Scene in the Berkshire Hills 115 State Street and Capitol, Albany, N. Y. 125 River Street, Troy, N. Y. 129 View in Schenectady, N. Y. 133 View in Mohawk Valley 143 A Mill Stream in Mohawk Valley 139 A Flourishing Farm 157 An Old Landmark 161 The Road to Albany 121 View of Rochester 171 The District School-House 177 Rural Scene in Central New York 183 The Road to Buffalo 189 Juvenile Picnic 205 A Cottage on the Hillside 211 Haying in Northern Ohio 221 Just Out of Cleveland 225 On the Shore of Lake Erie 235 Sunday at the Farm 241 A Home in the Woods 245 Country Store and Post Office 255 An Ohio Farm 265 Outskirts of a City 279 A Summer Afternoon 303 The Country Peddler 313 A Mill in the Forest 321 No Rooms To Let 335 Rural Scene in Michigan 341 Spinning Yarns by a Tavern Fire 345 A Hoosier Cabin 355 A Circus in Town 359 A Country Road in Illinois 381 An Illinois Home 385 A Happy Family 395 An Illinois Village 399 476 The Road to the Church 404 An Iowa Village 419 On the Way to Mill 427 A Night Among the Coyotes 431 High School, Omaha, Neb. 441 Omaha, Neb., in 1876 437 Sport on the Plains 449 Pawnee Indians, Neb. 453 North Platte, Neb. 457 Plum Creek, Neb. 463 Cattle Ranch in Nebraska 467 A Mountain Village 471 Captured by the Indians 477 Deciding the Fate of the Captives 481 Escape from the Arrapahoes 487 An Indian Encampment, Wyoming 495 Sheep Ranch in Wyoming 503 Mining Camp in Nevada 507 A Rocky Mountain River 513 A Lake in the Sierra Nevadas 517 A Cascade by the Roadside 525 View in Woodward's Garden, San Francisco 533 The Pacific Ocean, End of Journey 541 OCEAN TO OCEAN ON HORSEBACK. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. From earliest boyhood it had been my earnest desire to see and learn from personal observation all that was possible of the wonderful land of my birth. Passing from the schoolroom to the War of the Rebellion and thence back to the employments of peace, the old longing to make a series of journeys over the American Continent again took possession of me and was the controlling incentive of all my ambitions and struggles for many years. To see New England—the home of my ancestors; to visit the Middle and Western States; to look upon the majestic Mississippi; to cross the Great Plains; to scale the mountains and to look through the Golden Gate upon the far-off Pacific were among the cherished desires through which my fancy wandered before leaving the Old Home and village school in Northern New York. The want of an education and the want of money were two serious obstacles which confronted me for a time. Without the former I could not prosecute my journeys intelligently and for want of the latter I could not even attempt them. Aspiring to an academic and collegiate course of study, but being at that period entirely without means for the accomplishment of my purpose, I left the district school of my native town and sought to raise the necessary funds by trapping for mink and other fur-bearing animals along the Oswegatchie and its tributary streams. This venture proving successful I entered the academy at Gouverneur in August, 1857, from which institution I was appointed to the State Normal College at Albany in the fall of 1859. I had been in Albany but six weeks when it became apparent that if I continued at the Normal I would soon be compelled to part with my last dollar for board and clothing. The years 1859-60 were spent alternately at Albany as student and in the village schools of Rensselaer County as teacher—the latter course being resorted to whenever money was needed with which to meet current expenses at the [21] [22] Normal School. Then came our great Civil Conflict overriding every other consideration. Books were thrown aside and the pursuits of the student and teacher supplanted by the sterner and more arduous duties of the soldier. During my three years of camping and campaigning with the cavalry of the Army of the Potomac I was enabled to gratify to some extent my desire for travel and to see much of interest as the shifting scenes of war led Bayard, Stoneman, Pleasonton, Gregg, Custer, Davies and Kilpatrick and their followers over the hills and through the valleys of Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania. Being captured in a cavalry battle between Kilpatrick and Stuart in October, 1863, I was imprisoned successively at Richmond, Danville, Macon, Savannah, Charleston and Columbia, from which last prison I escaped in November, 1864; was recaptured and escaped a second and third time, traversing the States of South Carolina and Georgia in my long tramp from Columbia to Savannah. The marches, raids, battles, captures and escapes of those days seem to have increased rather than diminished my ardor for travel and adventure and hence it is possibly not strange that on leaving the army I still looked forward to more extended journeys in the East and exploratory tours beyond the Mississippi. With the close of the war and mustering out of service came new duties and responsibilities which I had hardly contemplated during my school days. The question of ways and means again confronted me. I desired first to continue the course of study which had been interrupted by my enlistment, and secondly to carry out my cherished plans for exploration. Having a journal kept during my incarceration in and escapes from Southern prisons, I was advised and decided to amplify and publish it if possible with a view to promoting these projects. Going to New York, I at once sought the leading publishers. My manuscript was submitted to the Harpers, Appletons, Scribners, and some others, but as I was entirely unknown, few cared to undertake the publication and none seemed disposed to allow a royalty which to me at least seemed consistent with the time and labor expended in preparation. I had now spent my last dollar in the Metropolis in pursuit of a publisher, and in this dilemma it was thought best to return to Albany, where I had friends and perhaps some credit, and endeavor to bring out the book by subscription. This course would compel me to assume the cost of production, but if successful would prove much more lucrative than if issued in the usual way through the trade. Fully resolved upon retracing my steps to Albany, I was most fortunate in meeting an old comrade and friend to whom I frankly stated my plans and circumstances. He immediately loaned me twenty dollars with which to continue my search for a publisher and to meet in the meantime necessary current expenses. On reaching Albany an attic room and meals were secured for a trifling sum, arrangements made with a publisher, and the work of getting out the book begun. While the printer was engaged in composing, stereotyping, printing and binding the work, I employed my spare time in a door-to-door canvass of the city for subscriptions, promising to deliver on the orders as soon as the books came from the press. In this way the start was made and before the close of the year hundreds of agencies were established throughout the country. The venture proved successful beyond my most sanguine expectations, and where I had expected to dispose of two or three editions and to realize a few hundred dollars from the sale of "Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape," the book had a sale of over 400,000 copies and netted me $75,000, This remarkable success, rivalling in its financial results even "Uncle Tom's Cabin," which had just had a run of 300,000 copies, was most gratifying and led to the publication, at intervals, of "Three Years in the Federal Cavalry," "Battles for the Union," and "Heroes of Three Wars." The temptation to make the most of my literary ventures lured me on from year to year until 1875, when I laid down the pen and began preparation for my long contemplated and oft deferred journey across the Continent. Being now possessed of ample means, I proposed to ride at leisure on a tour of observation from OCEAN TO OCEAN ON HORSEBACK. My preference for an equestrian journey was in a great measure due to early associations with the horse, in jaunts along country highways and over the hills after the cows, as well as numerous boyhood adventures in which this noblest of animals frequently played a conspicuous part. Then, too, my experience in the cavalry largely influenced me to adopt the saddle as the best suited to my purpose. Reflecting further upon the various modes of travel, I was led to conclude as the result of much experience that he who looks at the country from the windows of a railway car, can at best have only an imperfect idea of the many objects of interest which are constantly brought to his notice. Again, a journey in the saddle, wherein the rider mounts and dismounts at will as he jogs along over the highway, chatting with an occasional farmer, talking with the people in town and gazing upon rural scenes at his pleasure, presents many attractive features to the student and tourist who wishes to view the landscape, to commune with nature, to see men and note the products of their toil and to learn something of their manners and customs. Having therefore decided to make my journey in the saddle, I at once set about to secure such a horse as was likely to meet the requirements of my undertaking. As soon as my purpose was known, horses of every grade, weight and shade were thrust upon my attention and after some three weeks spent in advertising, talks with horse fanciers and in the livery [23] [24] [25] [26] and sale stables of Boston, my choice fell upon a Kentucky Black Hawk, one of the finest animals I had ever seen and, as was subsequently established, just the horse I wanted for my long ride from sea to sea. His color was coal black, with a white star in the forehead and four white feet; long mane and tail; height fifteen hands; weight between ten and eleven hundred pounds, with an easy and graceful movement under the saddle; his make-up was all that could be desired for the objects I had in view. The price asked for this beautiful animal was promptly paid, and it was generally conceded that I had shown excellent judgment in the selection of my equine companion. A few days after my purchase I learned that my four-legged friend had been but a short time before the property of an ex-governor of Massachusetts and that the reason he had but recently found his way into a livery stable on Portland street, was that he had acquired the very bad habit of running away whenever he saw a railway train or anything else, in short, that tended to disturb his naturally excitable nature. This information led to no regrets, however, nor did it even lessen my regard for the noble animal which was destined soon to be my sole companion in many a lonely ride and adventure. The unsavory reputation he had made, and possibly of which he was very proud, of running away upon the slightest provocation, smashing up vehicles and scattering their occupants to the four winds, was considered by his new master a virtue rather than a fault, so long as he ran in the direction of San Francisco, and did not precipitate him from his position in the saddle. As soon as I was in possession of my horse the question of a suitable name arose and it was agreed after some discussion among friends that he should be christened Paul Revere, after that stirring patriot of the Revolution who won undying fame by his ride from Boston and appeals to the yeomanry the night before the Battle of Lexington. CHAPTER II. BOSTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. The month of April, 1876, found myself and horse fully equipped and ready to leave Boston, but I will not ride away from the metropolis of New England without some reference to its early history and remarkable development, nor without telling the reader of my lecture at Tremont Temple and other contemplated lectures in the leading cities and towns along my route. Boston, standing on her three hills with the torch of learning in her hand for the illumination of North, South, East and West, is not one of your ordinary every-day cities, to be approached without due introduction. Like some ancient dame of historic lineage, her truest hospitality and friendliest face are for those who know her story and properly appreciate her greatness, past and present. Before visiting her, therefore, I recalled to memory those facts which touch us no more nearly than a dream on the pages of written history, but when studied from the living models and relics gain much life, color and verisimilitude. Boston Harbor, with its waters lying in azure placidity over the buried boxes of tea which the hasty hands of the angered patriots hurled to a watery grave; Boston Common, whose turf grows velvet-green over ground once blackened by the fires of the grim colonial days of witch-burning, and again trampled down by innumerable soldierly feet in Revolutionary times; the Old State House, from whose east window the governor's haughty command, "Disperse, ye rebels!" sounded on the occasion of the "Boston Massacre," the first shedding of American blood by the British military; and the monument of Bunker Hill—these, with a thousand and one other reminders of the city's brilliant historical record, compose the Old Boston which I was prepared to see. The first vision, however, of that many-sided city was almost bewilderingly different from the mental picture. Where was the quaint Puritan town of the colonial romances? Where were its crooked, winding streets, its plain uncompromising meeting-houses, darkened with time, its curious gabled houses, stooping with age? Around me everything was shining with newness—the smooth wide streets, beautifully paved, the splendid examples of fin de siècle architecture in churches, public buildings, school houses and dwellings. Afterwards I realized that there was a New Boston, risen Phoenix-like from the ashes of its many conflagrations, and an Old Boston, whose "outward and visible signs" are best studied in that picturesque, shabby stronghold of ancient story, now rapidly degenerating into a "slum" district—the North End. Boston, viewed without regard to its history, is indeed "Hamlet presented without the part of Hamlet." It would be interesting to conjecture what the city's present place and condition might be, had Governor Winthrop's and Deputy- Governor Dudley's plan of making "New-towne"—the Cambridge of to-day—the Bay Colony's principal settlement, been executed. Instead, and fortunately, Governor Winthrop became convinced of the superiority of Boston as an embryo "county seat." "Trimountain," as it was first called, was bought in 1630 from Rev. William Blackstone, who dwelt somewhere between the Charles River and what is now Louisburg Square, and held the proprietary right of the entire Boston Peninsula—a sort of American Selkirk, "monarch of all he surveyed, and whose right there was none to dispute." He was "bought off," however, for the modest sum of £30, and retired to what was then the wilderness, on the [27] [28] [29] [30] banks of the Blackstone River—named after him—and left "Trimountain" to the settlers. Then Boston began to grow, almost with the quickness of Jack's fabled beanstalk. Always one of the most important of colonial towns, it conducted itself in sturdy Puritan style, fearing God, honoring the King—with reservations—burning witches and Quakers, waxing prosperous on codfish, and placing education above every earthly thing in value, until the exciting events of the Revolution, which has left behind it relics which make Boston a veritable "old curiosity shop" for the antiquarian, or indeed the ordinary loyal American, who can spend a happy day, or week, or month, prowling around the picturesque narrow streets, crooked as the proverbial ram's horn, of Old Boston. He will perhaps turn first, as I did, to the "cradle of Liberty"—Faneuil Hall. A slight shock will await him, possibly, in the discovery that under the ancient structure, round which hover so many imperishable memories of America's early struggles for freedom, is a market-house, where thrifty housewives and still more thrifty farmers chaffer, chat and drive bargains the year round, and which brings into the city a comfortable annual income of $20,000. But the presence of the money-changers in the temple of Freedom does not disturb the "solid men of Boston," who are practical as well as public-spirited. The market itself is as old as the hall, which was erected by the city in 1762, to take the place of the old market-house, which Peter Faneuil had built at his own expense and presented to the city in 1742, and which was burned down in 1761. The building is an unpretending but substantial structure, plainly showing its age both in the exterior and the interior. Its size—seventy-four feet long by seventy-five feet wide—is apparently increased by the lack of seats on the main floor and even in the gallery, where only a few of these indispensable adjuncts to the comfort of a later luxurious generation are provided. The hall is granted rent free for such public or political meetings as the city authorities may approve, and probably is only used for gatherings where, as in the old days, the participants bring with them such an excess of effervescent enthusiasm as would make them unwilling to keep their seats if they had any. The walls are embellished by portraits of Hancock, Washington, Adams, Everett, Lincoln, and other great personages, and by Healy's immense painting—sixteen by thirty feet—of "Webster Replying to Hayne." For a short time Faneuil Hall was occupied by the Boston Post Office, while that institution, whose early days were somewhat restless ones, was seeking a more permanent home. For thirty years after the Revolution, it was moved about from pillar to post, occupying at one time a building on the site of Boston's first meeting-house, and at another the Merchants' Exchange Building, whence it was driven by the great fire of 1872. Faneuil Hall was next selected as the temporary headquarters, next the Old South Church, after which the Post Office—a veritable Wandering Jew among Boston public institutions—was finally and suitably housed under its own roof-tree, the present fine building on Post Office Square. VIEWS IN BOSTON. VIEWS IN BOSTON. To the Old South Church itself, the sightseer next turns, if still bent on historical pilgrimages. This venerable building of unadorned brick, whose name figures so prominently in Revolutionary annals, stands at the corner of Washington and Milk streets. Rows of business structures, some of them new and clean as a whistle and almost impertinently eloquent of the importance of this world and its goods, cluster around the old church and hem it in, but are unable to jostle it out of the quiet dignity with which it holds its place, its heavenward-pointing spire preaching the sermons against worldliness which are no longer heard within its ancient walls. To every window the fanciful mind can summon a ghost—that of Benjamin Franklin, who was baptized and attended service here; Whitfield, who here delivered some of the soul- searching, soul-reaching sermons, which swept America like a Pentecostal flame; Warren, who here uttered his famous words on the anniversary of the Boston Massacre; of the patriot-orators of the Revolution and the organizers of the Boston Tea-Party, which first took place as a definite scheme within these walls. Here and there a red-coated figure would be faintly outlined—one of the lawless troop of British soldiers who in 1775 desecrated the church by using it as a riding-school. At present the church is used as a museum, where antique curiosities and historical relics are on exhibition to the public, and the Old South Preservation Committee is making strenuous efforts to save the building from the iconoclastic hand of Progress, which has dealt blows in so many directions in Boston, destroying a large number of interesting landmarks. Its congregation left it long ago, in obedience to that inexorable law of change and removal, which leaves so many old churches stranded amid the business sections of so many of our prominent cities, and settled in the "New Old South [31] [32] [35] Church" at Dartmouth and Boylston streets. It is curious and in its way disappointing to us visitors from other cities to see what "a clean sweep" the broom of improvement has been permitted in a city so intensely and justly proud of its historical associations as Boston. Year by year the old landmarks disappear and fine new buildings rise in their places and Boston is apparently satisfied that all is for the best. The historic Beacon, for which Beacon Hill was named and which was erected in 1634 to give alarm to the country round about in case of invasion, is not only gone, but the very mound where it stood has been levelled, this step having been taken in 1811. The Beacon had disappeared ten years before and a shaft sixty feet high, dedicated to the fallen heroes of Bunker Hill, had been erected on the spot and of course removed when the mound was levelled. The site of Washington's old lodgings at Court and Hanover street—a fine colonial mansion, later occupied by Daniel Webster and by Harrison Gray Otis, the celebrated lawyer—is now taken up by an immense wholesale and retail grocery store; the splendid Hancock mansion, where the Revolutionary patriot entertained Lafayette, D'Estaing, and many other notabilities of the day, was torn down in 1863, despite the protests of antiquarian enthusiasts. The double house, in one part of which Lafayette lived in 1825, is still standing; the other half of it was occupied during his lifetime by a distinguished member of that unsurpassed group of literati who helped win for Boston so much of her intellectual pre-eminence—George Ticknor, the Spanish historian, the friend of Holmes, Lowell, Whittier and Longfellow, from whom the latter is supposed to have drawn his portrait of the "Historian" in his "Tales of a Wayside Inn." The Boston Public Library, that magnificent institution, which has done so much to spread "sweetness and light," to use Matthew Arnolds' celebrated definition of culture, among the people of the "Hub," counts Mr. Ticknor among the most generous of its benefactors. One interesting spot for the historical pilgrim is the oldest inn in Boston, the "Hancock House," near Faneuil Hall, which sheltered Talleyrand and Louis Philippe during the French reign of terror. In addition to the fever for improvement, Boston owes the loss of many of her time-hallowed buildings to a more disastrous agency—that of the conflagrations which have visited her with strange frequency. A fire in 1811, which swept away the little house on Milk street where Franklin was born—and which is now occupied by the Boston Post—another in 1874, in which more than one hundred buildings were destroyed; and the "Great Boston Fire" of 1872, followed by conflagrations in 1873, 1874, 1877 and 1878, seemed to indicate that the fire fiend had selected Boston as his especial prey. To the terrible fire of 1872 many precious lives, property valued at eighty millions of dollars, and the entire section of the city enclosed by Summer, Washington, Milk and Broad streets were sacrificed. The scene was one a witness never could forget. Mingled with the alarum of the fire-bells and the screams and shouts of a fear-stricken people came the sound of terrific explosions, those of the buildings which were blown up in the hope of thus "starving out" the fire by making gaps which it could not overstep, and to still further complete the desolation, the gas was shut off, leaving the city in a horror of darkness; but the flames swept on like a pursuing Fury, wrapping the doomed city still closer in her embrace of death, and who was not satisfied until she had left the business centre of Boston a charred and blackened ruin. This same district is to-day, however, the most prosperous and architecturally prepossessing of the business sections of the city, practically illustrating another phase of that same spirit of improvement and civic pride which has overturned so many ancient idols and to-day threatens others. Indeed, it would be a churlish disposition which would lament the disappearance of the old edifices, the straightening of the thoroughfares, the alterations without number which have taken place, and which have resulted in the Boston of to-day, one of the most beautiful, prosperous and public-spirited cities in the world. The intelligence and local loyalty, for which her citizens are renowned, have been set to work to attain one object—the modest goal of perfection. Obstacles which some cities might have contentedly accepted as unavoidable have been swept away; advantages with which other cities might have been satisfied have been still further extended and improved. The 783 acres originally purchased by the settlers of Boston from William Blaxton for £30 has been increased over thirty times, until the city limits comprise 23,661 acres; this not by magic as it would seem, but by annexation of adjoining boroughs—Roxbury, Dorchester, Charlestown, and others—and by reclamation of the seemingly hopeless marshy land to the north and south of the city. The "Back-Bay" district, the very centre of Boston's wealth, fashion and refinement, the handsomest residence quarter in America, is built upon this "made land," which it cost the city about $1,750,000 to fill in and otherwise render solid. [36] [37] [38]