JUNE 2016 Watch ‘Blood Antiquities’ Sunday, June 5, on the National Geographic Channel HOW FAR WILL YOU TAKE IT With available Bird’s Eye View Camera* and standard All-Wheel Drive with intelligence (AWD-i). Prototype shown with options. Production model may vary. Before towing, confirm your vehicle and trailer are compatible, hooked up and loaded properly and that you have any necessary additional equipment. Do not exceed any Weight Ratings and follow all instructions in your Owner’s Manual. The maximum you can tow depends on the total weight of any cargo, occupants and available equipment. *The Bird’s Eye View Camera does not provide a comprehensive view of the area surrounding the vehicle. You should also look around outside your vehicle and use your mirrors to confirm surrounding clearance. Cold weather will limit effectiveness and view may become cloudy. ©2015 Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. june 2016 vol. 229 • no. 6 Not surprisingly, this area of sand lats and shallow water in the northern Bahamas is called Tiger Beach. 82 Swimming With Tigers The writer dives with tiger sharks, awesome predators that are critical to ocean health. By Glenn Hodges Photographs by Brian Skerry 30 58 1 00 Peru’s World Apart Plundering the Past Juárez Returns to Life Manú National Park is a natural Illegal trade in antiquities is The long-dangerous city on the wonder, protected—for now—by wreaking havoc on humanity’s U.S.-Mexico border has seen isolation and its residents. archaeological heritage. crime decline and civic life revive. By Emma Marris By Tom Mueller By Sam Quinones Photographs by Charlie Hamilton James Photographs by Robert Clark Photographs by Dominic Bracco II 118 Proof | The Art of Solar Energy On the Cover King Tut’s burial mask hasn’t been taken by looters, but The interplay of nature and human activity many other treasures have. Photo illustration by Javier Jaén. Photos: Kenneth forms patterns in the Nevada desert. Garrett, National Geographic Creative (Tut); PeopleImages/Getty Images (glove) Story and Photographs by Jamey Stillings Corrections and Clarifications Go to ngm.com/corrections. OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY FROM THE EDITOR Protecting Park Lands T  he Story Behind the Photo Some stories just break your heart. So it is with the behind-the-scenes story of the girl featured in this month’s article on Manú National Park in Peru. The girl’s name is Yoina. She’s a member of the Matsigenka tribe, an indige- nous group that lives in Manú, one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. When we saw Yoina’s picture, taken for National Geo- graphic by photographer Charlie Hamilton James in June 2015, all of us were captivated by the image of this 10-year- old girl, neck deep in the Yomibato River near her village, looking defiantly at the camera, a pet tamarin on her head. That photo did what great photos do. It made us want to know more—about the girl and about her life. Because her tribe and others have inhabited the area for generations, it’s their legal right to live in the protected rain forest with a few limitations: no gun hunting and no other activities that would irreparably harm the environment. Yoina “didn’t really care much for having her photo taken, and that’s why she’s got a bit of attitude in the shot,” says Hamilton James, who has covered Manú’s people and ani- mals for 20 years. “I must have shot around 20 frames like that, and she’s only smiling a little in one of them.” From there the story takes a tragic turn. The next month Yoina’s mother, Carmen, died after giving birth to her ninth child. The baby—named Grace Kelly at the suggestion of a visiting nurse’s wife—was adopted by Carmen’s sister. The aunt also cares for Yoina, who shaved her head in mourning. But the sad events did not stop there. Soon after, Yoina’s pet tamarin was killed when it overturned a boiling pot on itself. The family buried it. When our reporter Emma Marris went to Manú, she sought out Yoina. The girl still lives with her aunt and helps care for baby Grace. On that visit (left) Yoina had less hair Posing with a but a bit more of a smile, in gratitude for the gift of a photo with her pet. photo of We strive to bring you stories of people and places that are remarkable, re- herself with a mote, endangered—or, as in Manú’s case, all three. We can’t know what we’ll pet tamarin, Yoina smiled— find on return visits, but we’re heartened by the words of people like Matsi- which she genka teacher Mauro Metaki. “We know how to take care of the forest,” he wouldn’t do in says. To live of the land but at the same time protect it, “we take just a little.” the first photo. Thanks for reading National Geographic. Susan Goldberg, Editor in Chief PHOTO: GLENN SHEPARD We believe in the power of science, exploration, and storytelling to change the world. EDITOR IN CHIEF Susan Goldberg NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY DEPUTY EDITOR IN CHIEF: Jamie Shreeve. MANAGING EDITOR: David Brindley. EXECUTIVE EDITOR PRESIDENT AND CEO Gary E. Knell DIGITAL: Dan Gilgoff. 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U.S.: Robert Amberg (National); Tammy Abraham (East), Eric Josten (West), Karen Sarris (Midwest) national geographic • JUNE 2016 ´ 3 Questions nationalgeographic.com/3Q Do you like any of the films set in space—and do you think there really are other beings out there? I liked The Martian. I also thought that Gravity was good. At one point in my space career, I could have been like George Clooney’s character, free to maneu- ver on my space walk—but NASA insisted on me having a tether. As for extraterres- trial life, Carl Sagan said that extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence. Some believe that the monolith on Phobos [a small moon of Mars] had intelligence behind its structure, for example. But we don’t have the extraordi- nary evidence right now. What was the biggest lesson you learned from being an astronaut? It has evolved from when I returned from the moon to today. You have to remem- ber that I wasn’t named Why We Must Why is it important for us an astronaut right away. to keep exploring space, So when I look back on to even colonize Mars? things, what I remember is Continue to We are stagnating on Earth. the process. The process of We are reverting to the becoming an astronaut and Explore Space past. We are not pioneeri ng. going [to the moon] taught We are not looking forward. me the lesson of persistence. And if we do not explore, we If at first you don’t succeed … will expire. History records Buzz Aldrin as the second What has held us back? A man to set foot on the moon. At age 86, the variety of things, including Buzz Aldrin’s former astronaut is still trying new feats. He latest book, No aging astronauts, public has appeared on television on The Big Bang Dream Is Too Theory and Dancing With the Stars. He has apathy, the lack of exciting High, is avail- written nine books, including No Dream Is Too activities in space, budget able wherever High: Life Lessons From a Man Who Walked constraints, and leaders books are sold. on the Moon. And he continues to urge Earth’s who underappreciate inhabitants to press farther into space. such aspirations. PHOTO: REBECCA HALE, NGM STAFF VISIONS national geographic • june 2016