MUSLIM FASHION M F F N A A MI M O L S S U S U H I H H U S S I I O S O LM L A I I N N M M F M MUSLIM FASHION U S Contemporary Style Cultures REINA LEWIS L Duke University Press | Durham and London | 2015 I M © 2015 Duke University Press All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America on acid- free paper ♾ Designed by Heather Hensley Typeset in Chaparral Pro by Tseng Information Systems, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewis, Reina, [date]– author. Muslim fashion : contemporary style cultures / Reina Lewis. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn 978-0-8223-5914-2 (hardcover : alk. paper) isbn 978-0-8223-5934-0 (pbk. : alk. paper) isbn 978-0-8223-7534-0 (e-book) 1. Muslim women—Clothing—Turkey. 2. Muslim women— Clothing—Great Britain. 3. Muslim women—Clothing—North America. 4. Fashion—Turkey. 5. Fashion—Great Britain. 6. Fashion—North America. i. Title. bp190.5.c6l49 2015 391′.2088297—dc23 2015012564 Cover art: © Alessia Gammarota / Crossing the street to meet Dina Toki-O, Oxford Street, London, 2012. WITH LOVE FOR Áine Duffy IN MEMORY OF MY MOTHER Estelle Lewis 1930–2014 Loving and Beloved CONTENTS xi Acknowledgments 1 INTRODUCTION Veils and Sales 35 CHAPTER 1 From Multiculture to Multifaith: Consumer Culture and the Organization of Rights and Resources 69 CHAPTER 2 The Commercialization of Islamic Dress: Selling and Marketing Tesettür in Turkey and Beyond 109 CHAPTER 3 Muslim Lifestyle Magazines: A New Mediascape 163 CHAPTER 4 Taste and Distinction: The Politics of Style 199 CHAPTER 5 Hijabi Shop Workers in Britain: Muslim Style Knowledge as Fashion Capital? 237 CHAPTER 6 Modesty Online: Commerce and Commentary on the Net 287 CHAPTER 7 Commodification and Community 317 CONCLUSION 323 Notes 331 References 365 Index