Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemieals NATO Science Series ASeries presenting the resufts of scientific meetings supported under the NATO Science Programme. The Series is published by lOS Press, Amsterdam, and Kluwer Aeademie Publishers in eonjunction with the NATO Scientifie Affairs Division Sub-5eries I. Life and Behavioural Sciences tOS Press 11. Mathematies, Physlcs and Chemistry Kluwer Academie Publishers 111. Computer and Systems Seien ce lOS Press IV. Earth and Environmental Sciences Kluwer Academie Publishers V. Seience and Technology Poliey lOS Press The NATO Science Series eontinues the series of books published formerly as the NATO ASI Series. The NATO Seienee Programme offers support for coIlaboration in eivil science between scienlists of countries of the Euro-Atlantie Partnership Couneil. The types of seientifie meeting generally supported are "Advaneed Study InstiMes" and "Advaneed Research Workshops", although other types of meeting are supported from time to time. The NATO Seienee Series coIlects together the results of these meetings. The meetings are eo-organized bij scientists from NATO countries and scientists from NATO's Partner countries - countries of the CIS and Central and Eastern Europe. Advanced Study Institutes are high-level Morial courses offering in-depth study of latest advanees inafield. Advaneed Research Workshops are expert meetings aimOO at eritical assessment of a field, and identification of directions for future action. As a consequenee of the restructuring of the NATO Seienee Programme in 1999, the NATO Seienee Series has been re-organised and there are eurrently Five Sub-series as notOO above. Please consult the following web sites for information on previous volumes publishOO in the Series, as weil as details of earlier Sub-series. http://www.nato.intlscienee http://www.wkap.nl http://www.iospress nl http://www.wtv-books.delnato-pco.htm I -~­ ~ I Series 11: Mathematics, Physics and Chemistry - Vol. 117 Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemieals edited by Georges Tsoucaris Centre de Recherche et de Restauration des Musees de France, C.N.R.S., Paris, France and Janusz Lipkowski Institute of Physical Chemistry, Polish Academy of Science, Warsaw, Poland SPRINGER SCIENCE+BUSINESS MEDIA, B.V. Proceedings of the NATO Advanced Research Workshop on Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemicals Erice, Sicily, Italy 23-27 May 2002 A C.J.P. Catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN 978-1-4020-1499-4 ISBN 978-94-010-0193-9 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-94-010-0193-9 Printed on acid-free paper All Rights Reserved © 2003 Springer Science+Business Media Donlrecht Originally published by Kluwer Acadcmic Publishcrs in 2003 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 2003 No part of this work may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, microfilming, recording or otherwise, without written permission from the Publisher, with the exception of any material supplied specifically for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser of the work. Organising Committee: R.J.H. CLARK Dept. of Chemistry, University College London, London, UK J.FALSONE Institute of Archaeology, University of Palermo, Italy J. LIPKOWSKI Institute of Physical Chemistry, Polish Academy of Science, Warsaw, Poland G. TSOUCARIS Centre de Recherche et de Restauration des Musees de France, Paris, France Ph. W ALTER Centre de Recherche et de Restauration des Musees de France, Paris, France The Organising Committee expresses his gratitude to the following sponsors for generous support: NATO Scientific and Environmental Affairs Division Programme Association pour la Recherche Scientifique sur les Collections des Musees (ARC OM) Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres, France Italian Ministry of Education, University and Scientific Research Sicilian Regional Government The Organising Committee thanks these persons who devoted their time and energy for an excellent organisation: Fiorella RUGGIU PinoACETO John I. IRWIN Federica PETRELLI Antonio CAVALLARO TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE ix-xi Inventing a science of make-up 1-9 Ph. WALTER Etruscan gold dental appliances 11-27 M.l. BECKER Preparation and Use of Perfumes and Perfumed Substances 29-50 in Ancient Egypt M. EI-SHIMY Analysis of different materials used in Ancient Egypt 51-52 N.ISKANDER Pigments in Artwork, Cosmetics and Archaeology: 53-59 The role of Raman Microscopy in their Identification R.J.H. CLARK A Multidisciplinary Approach to Pigment Analysis: 61-72 King's Yellow and Dragon's Blood from the Winsor and Newton Pigment Box at the Victoria and Albert Museum L. BURGIO, R.J.H. CLARK, G. MARTIN, E. PANTOS & M.A. ROBERTS Multispectral Spectroscopy through Tuneable Multispectral Reflectoscopy 73-83 between 200 nm and 3500 nm Y. CHRYSOULAKIS, CHR. SALPISTIS AND G. KARAGANNIS Spectroscopic Techniques for the Investigation of Sicilian 85-106 Cultural Heritage: two different Applications S. GALLI, G. BARONE, V. CRUPI, D. MAJOLINO, P. MIGLIARDO, and R. PONTERIO A Non-Destructive Analysis by Neutron Diffraction inside 107-111 Make-up Containers Of Ancient Egypt P. MARTINETTO, M. ANNE, E. DOORYHEE ,0. ISNARD, P. WALTER Unveiling the structure of ancient lead pigments. Example of «lead white» 113-118 P. MARTINETTO , M. ANNE, E. DOORYHEE ,P. WALTER AND G. TSOUCARIS MOSSBAUER Spectra of two ancient ceramic products from Moldova 119-122 C. TURTA. S.A. BOBCOVA and V. MEREACRE VI Chemical Reactivity of Molecular Systems in Media Organized 123-130 at the Molecular Level Ch.AMATORE Is Supramolecular Organisation a Key Factor for Long Term Preservation? 131-152 G. TSOUCARIS, L. BERTRAND and Ph. WALTER Asru, an Ancient Egyptian Temple Chantress: Modem Spectrometric 153-162 studies as Part of the Manchester Egyptian Mummy Research Project A.R DAVID and V. GARNER Metal Threads in Historical Textiles 163-178 M. JARO New Synchrotron Radiation-based Imaging Techniques and Archaeology 179-192 J. DOUCET The Use of Focussed X-Ray Beams for non-Destructive 193-200 Characterization of Historical Materials K.H. JANSSENS, K. PROOST, I. DE RAEDT, E. BULSKA, B. WAGNER and M. SCHREINER Advances in Art and Archaeology Using X-Ray Synchrotron Radiation 201-209 E.DOORYHEE Microstructure Determined by X-ray Diffraction Peak Profile 211-220 Analysis: a Fingerprint in Archaeology T. UNGAR, P. MARTINETTO, G. RIBARIK, E. DOORYHEE, PH. W ALTER and M. ANNE SR-based Molecular Speciation of Archaeomaterials 221-229 E. PANTOS, N.sALVADO, T.PRADELL, J. MOLERA, M.VENDRELL, A.D.SMITH, I.W.KIRKMA, M.MARCUS, E.GLIOZZO and I.MEMMI-TURBANTI Recent Achievement and Perspectives in Synchrotron Radiation 231-234 X-ray Absorption Spectroscopy J. PURANS, S.BENAZETH, and CH. SOULEAU The Emergence of Pathogenic Bacteria and their Impact on 235-240 Human Civilization: the Case of Plague Bacillus. Yersinia pestis Infectious diseases and human civilization T. STEPKOWSKI and A.B. LEGOCKI Supramolecular Chemistry, Chirality and ... Archaeology 241-247 J. LIPKOWSKI and M. ASZTEMBORSKA vii Invisible in Archaeological Ceramics: Research Problems 249-261 A. BUKO Molecular Characterisation of Materials: 263-267 a New Challenge for Analytical Chemistry 1. P. MOHEN SUBJECT INDEX 269-272 PREFACE Recent progress in the analysis and structural characterisation of materials has an increasing impact on studies of archaeological specimens. A need to embody such research into a new interdisciplinary field has appeared. In this ARW we intended to bring together archaeologists and historians with physicists, chemists, crystallographers and pharmacists, around the theme of structural information on complex archaeological materials. Within this vast area, the ARW has mainly focused on cosmetic-therapeutic chemicals. The objectives of this NATO ARW were twofold: - Delineating the contour of molecular and structural archaeology as an emerging interdisciplinary field based on structural analysis at the molecular level. - Examining novel methodologies to reconstruct the scenario of synthesis and transformation in the long term of compounds used in antiquity for health and beauty. The strong interdisciplinarity of this meeting has been greatly favoured by the NATO ARW organisation allowing the mixing of different fields and disciplines with convergent general goals. This Workshop has shown that the molecular and structural sensibility is a powerful tool towards the setting, and often the solution, of difficult archaeological and historical problems. Ten different nationalities (Europe, Egypt, USA) were represented in the ARW, and this mixing has contributed to the large range of subjects and archaeological contexts. Thus, a mutual interaction between Archaeology and Physical Sciences is expected. The most obvious part is associated with extended use of any possible technique and method to get as much information about the archaeological samples as possible. However, there is its counterpart in the sense that chemistry and physics can learn from samples which are thousands of years old. The long-term transformations of physicochemical systems may be studied in this perspective. It seems we are at the infancy of that approach to the science of ancient materials. Recent advances in analytical chemistry and crystallography open new perspectives in the study of complex materials and preparations. Many cosmetic-therapeutic materials both inorganic and organic, found in closed vessels in ancient tombs have been completely identified. In this particular study, the molecular and structural information has revealed that the Ancients had developed as early as 2000 Be the technology needed to synthesise these materials, such as wet chemical syntheses of new compounds not known as natural products. This chemical technology was followed by an art of formulation. Nonetheless, the resulting preparations may have been cosmetic or therapeutic, yet their use may also have been associated with ultimately adverse effects on the whole of society, such as long-term lead poisoning. IX